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I thought I’d better post something, seeing as I’ve been AWOL for a good while... A good few years ago (I may have written about it on here, I can’t remember!) I took my ISF around the GP circuit at Silverstone. It rained a lot, but the car nevertheless was a lot of fun if fairly lively, I didn’t get flagged for noise (despite having a H&S cat-back system which sounded like a NASCAR) and both myself and a mate I invited along had an extremely memorable day. Advancing the calendar to a fortnight ago and it was yet again raining all day, this time at Bedford Autodrome (the 2.8mile SW configuration). The day was mixed discipline, with two car groups and one motorbike group; the latter were understandably getting increasingly frustrated watching the cars lapping round when they weren’t allowed to play! I was accompanied by the usual salad of track cars - Clio 172/182s, MX5s, Elises, Boxsters, Civic Type Rs, some fast Meganes and several Fiesta/Focus STs. There was a rather charming ‘70s Lotus Europa too. Switching the drive mode to Sport and the TVD to ‘track’ (obviously), I accelerated out of the pits with a brief burst of power before the sharp left in front of the hospitality suite. Quickly afterwards, there’s a fairly greasy L-R-L chicane flowing out to a left-hander where grip was still far less than expected, especially on the racing line. A couple more turns and it’s now the long, slow left-hander at the far end of the circuit before the straight - the karting line is preferred here - patiently going right around the outside of the corner, taking the same time to rotate the car but exiting the bend a little faster and handily right in the ‘meat’ of the power band in 2nd. The straight was a full-on bellow through 2nd, 3rd, 4th and as far into 5th as the occasional patches of standing water would deem sensible - I very much do NOT want to know what aquaplaning and a possible spin would be like north of 140mph... A fast chicane, eased by huge liberties on the kerbs, followed by a couple of ever sharpening left-handers bring you down to earth a bit after the big-numbers, then a right and a faster right brings you back to where we began... The GSF? Faultless, of course! The brakes seemed endless, the handling fairly benign but progressive and easy to catch, helped by the weight and the relatively long wheelbase - it was obvious when grip was about to run out, even for a Neanderthal like me. The noise was awesome and the fuel economy was... about 9mpg (although nearly 37mpg on the 140mile journey to get there!) The main problem with this car? I’ve nearly had it 3 years and I can’t begin to think what could replace it...

Thought I'd drop in as my 2010 car had a new radiator installed by the previous owner during the 90k mile service 6 months before I bought it in 2018. I dug out the paperwork to check the part number and it is U16400-38H10.

I noticed a few days ago that my front driver side door was rattling a bit at certain speeds above 40mph, just enough to be annoying, with nothing in the door pocket. Sounded like possibly a loose screw. Today I pulled the door card off and found it was indeed rattling when shaken, it took quite a bit of shaking at different angles but eventually a total of four 5p bits fell out. You live and learn, don't put coins in the door pockets!

All fitted, only one minor knuckle scrape. I was a bit nervous at first in case it had been a wasted effort but I'm really pleased with the result. The ride is excellent, no difference in feel to air, no warning light (40 amp fuse removed) and no more concerns about air suspension, I should have done this in the first place. I'll get the alignment checked on Monday just in case.

How many people use AutoGlym? We have a huge range of them and all cheaper than RRP. https://www.lexuspartsdirect.co.uk/car-care/

Evening, I've been signed up for quite awhile now and have wanted to buy an ISF multiple times but it's never worked out. A very nice one popped up at a local classic/ prestige sales place owned by a friend of a friend. He'd invited me over to have a look and no pressure, not many seem to venture up north so he'd suggested I take advantage to at least have a look around one in person at last! Before I knew it I was out for a test drive and then discussing a deal for my current car ( a Golf R Estate) This all happened very quickly, I went from being happy with my golf to owning the ISF in a day! First proper drive out was my favourite 110 mile loop in the North Pennines which I tend to do quite often in my second car, an old BMW. Really impressed, I don't agree with the write ups on them about the suspension being harsh and not well damped, which most seem to say! The roads in the north Pennines are a good test for compliant suspension, my golf wasn't great at speed over continuous bumps but the Lexus ate them up! Great fun! Ill get a couple of snaps up from the drive when I can. Looking forward to reading more of the forum (and trying to ignore the threads with large expensive problems!) Thanks, Scott

My recently aquired [private sale] 2005 facelift has two fairly major issues: 1. power steering rack has oil/fluid on boot cover so suspect end-seal leak, seals not separately available so looking for a replacement rack. Part no.44200-24190 Does anyone know of any model which shares this part no. or any replacement other than the ones on e-BAY. 2. Excessive judder on braking at speed of 40mph plus. All suspension secure without excess play new pads and discs when bought. judder is inconsistent in that sometimes seems from rear i.e. through whole car and then from front i.e through steering. Any suggestions welcome. Thanks.

Are you buying an ISF, or an IS hybrid?

If you have a laptop and want to do some diagnostics yourself You'll need a miniVCI cable like this one. These cables invariably come with a pirate copy of Techstream but, of course, I can't condone using it; that would be a matter for your own conscience. The correct way would be to legally and freely download Techstream from here https://www.lexus-tech.eu/ and then pay for a block of time to use it, but you'll need that VCI cable anyway, whichever you choose to use. Here's just some of the Diagnostic Trouble Codes associated with power steering:

Its been a few cars ago that I have had one I have gone over the 100,000 miles mark ... might just do it

No, there will (should) be a fault history. Any OBD2 scanner will show some diagnostic trouble codes but Techstream is the diagnostic software used by Lexus techs in the dealer workshops and can provide infinitely more info.

Is that what they told you on the phone or have you actually had it in the workshop for diagnostics? What I'm getting at is, are there any fault codes stored that would give us a clue? I've been in the electrical/electronic maintenance field all my working life and I do know what they mean - you can't find a fault if it isn't there at the time of testing. You really need Techstream to diagnose something like this because so much can be gleaned from it without having to remove any parts as you'll see below:

A common problem with a lot of cars is the door rubbers start to make a sort of creaking noise as the car flexes just as you describe. Clean all the door rubbers thoroughly with water and allow to dry then treat them all with Gummi Pflege - something like this SONAX 03400000 Rubber Care https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B002MZZNU8/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_nmtqFb2G0K6CS Also worth cleaning the window glass where it pushes up into the rubbers at the top of the door but chances are the above will solve it. I find I have to do my every six to twelve months to keep it all nice and quiet.

Coins could also have slipped out of trouser pocket. I have found this had happened in a car before now and also down the sides of my normal armchair. Anyway, good you found cause. Rattles can be irritating.

If she is used to being on the back of a motorbike, the IS-F will be a little bit more comfy

So i got the wheels waxed, spigot rings and center caps fitted and thrown back on the car. I also decided to weigh the wheels and compare them to the old 1s just out of interest. Even though the wheels and tyres are bigger they are 5 1/4 lbs lighter on the front and 4lbs lighter on the back. So an 8.4kg saving all round which tbh is very suprising, im not getting too caught up with weight saving as im not really going down that route....... yet, but still nice to know.

It’s a Toyota thing.....

I agree, that means you need to take the brakes apart, easy enough though. Clean them with metal brush, you can even buy a brake cleaner, some of it is very good stuff, and then apply lubricant on sliding parts, this should help with squealing.

Just posting an update. After getting a mechanic friend to dismantle everything to get at the sensors, it was apparent that the wiring harness to both sensors was badly corroded, as well as the tag in the sensors. While I may have got away with just a harness, the amount of work to dismantle again would not have been worth the risk. Bit the bullet and bought 2 genuine knock sensors from Lexus as well as wiring harness, gaskets and a bypass hose at £560 ( plus £275 labour and new coolant at a mate rate ). Car is running really well again with no errors even after a few weeks. Thanks to everyone for your comments.

Maybe try lubricating the interface between pistons and backs of the pads with copper grease. Might help both problems

You obviously did the right thing. Regards buying not from Lexus, the problem is that it is very very tough to sell a second hand car and achieve a good price. As a result most trade in through the dealer and I would think many RX customers stick with the car because they are so good. My son had a mint RX for sale a year ago and had it advertised through this site as well as Autotrader. It had full Lexus Service history and still under Lexus extended warranty, and low mileage. He had too many people trying to buy it cheaply, even from on here. In the end he stuck to his guns and got his price, but I doubt he would wish to repeat the process. Every person that viewed commented how clean it was in comparison with others they had seen , which supports your experience. I’m sure you will find what you want, but in the end good ones sell for good prices.

Just a couple of pics of the car before I tinted the indicators

I do the same on the anniversary of when I purchased my LS430, which is also MOT time. I am on good terms with the seller, but he very much regrets selling, particularly as I have had 44k pretty faultless miles since, and it still looks better 6 years later.

Hi Lisa and welcome to the LOC. You don’t display which RX model you have but this info is based on a 2006 RX300. There are only 3 parts available, the glass, the complete housing and the door mounting. The housing price is as shown ! You best and cheapest solution is to try and buy a secondhand housing from a breaker from the likes of ebay and then use the parts to repair yours. Or you could get the mirror in the correct position then use a glue gun to secure the mirror to the housing with a blob in each corner...unsightly but does the job.

Had new model Catloc fitted today. No more vibration or rattles. Magic carpet ride has been restored. Substantial stainless steel cage. Looks to give far better protection than the previous model. Good response from Lexus in resolving issue.

Hi all, I've had my NX300 since January but thanks to lockdown, I 've only done about 3k miles - still enough to give a verdict on fuel consumption. In short - if you like driving speedily with your foot constantly on the gas, don't buy this car! If however, economy is your goal then and you don't mind speed merchants queuing up behind you I've been employing techniques which are usually getting me over 40mpg. Just done a 400 mile round trip and got 42.9 mpg with no real difference between urban and town motoring, which I thought was great! Techniques as follows: 1. Drive in Eco mode 2. Little and often on the gas 3. Use cruise as much as possible 4. Stick to speed limits (and be amazed that most people don't) I swapped my Mercedes CLS for this car and originally was wringing my hands at losing the 55mpg it gave me. However that dropped considerably in town, unlike the Lexus so I now can't be certain that I'm really losing out. Appreciate this driving style might not be to everyone's taste! Phil

There was a 2016 carbon bouncing around between dealer and private seller on here for £36k nearly two years ago...mileage 40k I believe Looking at some of the non carbon RCF's that have been sold recently, how much would you add on for Carbon ... I dunno. 2018 - 20k miles up for 35k...(specialist dealer told me he wouldn't touch one but if he did no more than 30k part ex) 2016- 14k miles ...29k 2016- 7k miles - sold for 29k 2015- Guy on here sold to dealer recently , now up for £30k I would try Wizzle https://www.wizzle.co.uk/ No option to sell and no cost but they will give you an idea of how much a dealer would give you and take it from there. The issue is people want finance, so dealers are king in that regard.

F cars are difficult to shift. Either you take the hit and trade it in or just be patient as there never seems to be an abundance of buyers. The other issue is that many people these days want PCP. Good luck 👍

Hi. If it helps I have a 2015 carbon in red with 15k fsh lexus and I think mine is worth 34k.

37k is top, but credible hence my estimate of 34-37. From a buyers perspective, they will see your model sitting between a 2015 none carbon with 30,000 on the clock at 30k and a 2018 none carbon with 8000 on the clock at 39k. Providing that yours is unmolested, unlike the wheel change on the 2015 model, you will tend to attract a different buyer. A buyer who does want a full MOT, a major service - ah, did you mention that you have / are doing these. 😀 So providing that the condition is relevant to the age of the car, decent pads, disks and tyres, then you can command the higher book. Pre Covid plenty of these Carbons moved between the 33-37 mark. As it stands there are no used carbons on the trader so should another carbon appear, they will use your price as the one to base theirs! For now the trader market is now yours!

Right then boys and girls. Issue fixed with this. I did replace wheel bearing hub and put new knuckle ball joints as the grease had come out from the tie rod end ball joint at same time and unfortunately this wasn't the problem. In the end it was exhaust shield bracket rubbing and vibrating against the body of the car. All fixed for 10 quid. Oh well at least got new bearing and ball joints.

I can understand your disappointment. Ask to speak to the dealer principal if they don't play ball. A few scratches are to be expected on a six year old car and are easily rectified so would ask for them to be done. It may not be a perfect repair, say a touch up. The alloys are totally unacceptable for a used approved, I wouldn't have collected the car with them in that state. It really wouldn't cost them much to sort out those issues so make it politely clear you're unhappy and if they want future servicing, MOT's and possible purchases from you ask them to rectify it. I've taken a few vehicles back with previously unnoticed things (scratches on bodywork / cigarette burn on upholstery etc) over the years and within reason they've been sorted.

I'm never that prepared. Hence me knowing what PAS fluid tastes like

Used manual mode, sport mode, traction control still on. 2 weeks ago I mashing the gas pedal and the car kills power a wee bit, Sunday past I was left foot braking and holding revs at 1150 and just before green light I would release the brake pedal that way I'm on the move same time as the green light then try to apply throttle over a period of about 1.5 seconds then just keep it hard on the floor and go up the gears right after the beep. MAF cleaning helped more in the second half of the quarter. Our cars are beasts on the strip at speeds from 2nd gear onwards, what ever time we can reduce our 60 foot by that time is trippled at the end.

The CT has already been withdrawn from North America. My wife had two and they are lovely cars, but I could never really see them challenging the A3 or 1-series. I am sorry the IS is not coming to Europe at all by the sound of it, but that too is probably inevitable after the withdrawal of the Avensis too. Clearly the “small” saloon is simply not where Toyota/Lexus sees profit to be made in the next decade or so. This certainly carries a risk, however - it was the 3rd gen IS which brought me to the brand and I thought it was a terrific car. Having the UX as the cheapest model will make the brand hard to access but, arguably, therefore also more premium. There are deals to be had on them and you have to remember even the base spec is terrific - my wife’s is base plus premium pack and there is very little you miss. Time will tell!

I have a 2014 RX with standard suspension and I don't think the ride is particularly good, certainly like as cushioned as my '92 LS400. I suppose the suspension is doing a lot of work if you think about it, these are heavy, tall things to keep on the road.

Woo Hoo, a topic where everyone is calling them “brakes” instead of “breaks” great to see. Ha Ha..... Never trust an English teacher from Germany, especially is he’s called Otto Korekt..

Wyn, if it has RFT on the sidewall it is a runflat and will give a harder ride. The profile of 55 is very sensible. If it not a runflat then other RX owners will come along and comment I am sure.

Welcome to Europe's Leading Lexus Club! Please Enjoy!

I hope this isn't one of our members but I have to wonder how it got there?