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Scythe are you a detective? 🕵️‍♂️ Very thorough work! Thank you ! Quick update on her, She's being fitted with the Grom audio unit to provide updated nav and full Bluetooth audio capability, new window tints for privacy and to stop people looking in through the window - I'm amazed by the amount of attention this car has had whilst parked up, as it's rather subdued in presence and the finger prints on the glass! Then a wheel refurb as they are looking a little corroded....will keep you posted! Ps my 250 is now sold to another forum member.

The GU prefix suggests that it was first registered by Lexus GB, who might have used it as a staff car, or demonstrator, or sold it to a dealership to use as a demonstrator. The car was on offer from lexus edgeware road for £65995 with 14791miles , then again with 19352 miles for £51995, then Lexus stockport offered it with 19659 miles for £43990. After this it was offered again at Lexus Leicester for 46850 with 19821 miles on the clock. November '08, August '09, September '09 and April '10 were the years of the offers. : o )

will do

Well, to be fair you would get a better response in the right section I happen to browse Latest Posts rather than by section. Let us know how you get on. Fingers crossed it isn't bad news.

I have the 2019 FSport. I read the same as you, was deeply worried about the ride being harsh. I needn't have worried it feels plush and rides beautifully in my mind. The AVS system apparently makes it harder in Sport mode, but frankly it doesn't seem to make much difference to me. Comfortable whichever way you drive it. I also had the new RAV4 in my final list but went for the NX because it looks loads better than the RAV (in and out) and is a luxury brand. I'm very happy with my decision. Worry not, it's a lovely car and only sounds a bit noisy when the engine races. I find I rarely drive it that way! I love my car.

ask them to have a good look around too - could be a leaking water pump.

Had both front upper control arms fitted for £45! Not too bad methinks.

No, not a detective. Back in 2007 I decided I wanted an LS. The prices were changing so quickly at that time I wrote a program to quickly scrape the Lexus website every morning when I turned on my computer, and store the data. After I'd bought the car I just let the program continue until Lexus changed the people who did their website. : o )

Hi Ross, your 460 doesn't have an adaptive gearbox. Earlier ones did - my 400 and my 430 both had them. I didn't like it because the gearbox didn't always behave in the same way - if I'd been on a long journey the car drove differently when I started the next day compared to if I'd just been driving locally. The 460 gearbox doesn't adapt, and, especially as it has enough power to do whatever you want, I think it's a better arrangement. The ECT thing, as people have said, changes how your gearbox responds. I always leave mine in the PWR postion, because this means that the gearbox always drops into the right gear at the right time. People who say that the 460 has too many gears have, I think been using the the car with the switch in the centre position. In PWR it's always there in the right gear for you. Incidentally, I used to drive along the same stretch of motorway fairly often, and measured fuel consumption with the cruise control set, and in this situation there was no reduction in mpg over my set distance of 40 or so miles. The lack of power thing, I had that. After a few bits of nonsense, a (Lexus) mechanic suggested that it needed it's throttle body cleaning. He did that, and it cleared the problem. : o )

You can buy fairly cheap testers for use at home. They range from about £7 on Ebay (search for Head Gasket Tester). I think anyone with an IS220 should have one inthe garage just in case. Principle of operation can be seen on this Youtube clip

welcome BUT if you're restoring her then you def won't need the silly clear lenses ........ original is brilliant Malc

Welcome to Europe's Leading Lexus Club! Please Enjoy!

While clearing out my garage I found a couple of 7 inch 178 mm lexus centre caps. I cleaned them up and they are very useable but far from perfect. If you are missing the same from your car, and a regular on this forum, then send me a PM with a pic of your car/wheel and I'll send them to you free with my compliments. I hope this freebie offer doesn't contravene any site rules?

There is a topic here:

As suggested, micro bore copper pipe, easy to bend to shape, just get the right diameter.

🤣 I’m guessing edelbrock... 🤣

if it's similar to the Ls400 then you could replace with a simple piece of copper tubing for about £5 ........ if it's just the run in front of the radiator when mine went that Lexus mild steel part was about £85 ! And I also had big issues with that conglomeration of pipework from the pas reservoir down to that pipe and for simplicity that was renewed in appropriate flexi hoses too Malc

yeah that was term i was trying to use "burn CD" i forgot, haven't burnt one in 10 years!!

What Colin says above. This may help:

If you have a volt meter measure the voltage across the battery - that will give you a good indication of whether you need a new battery or not. I highly suspect you do.

going to take it to garage for a pressure test on cooling radiator

But why are you even bothering with the faff of it all?? I haven't figured anything remotely useful the Lexus connected drive is meant to do to be worth the effort needed to keep the car 'connected'.

I believe it's the same on all or most Lexus models. A friend with a 450 told me about it. It may well be in the manual, but it doesn't do any harm to ask. That's what forums are all about.

****el

thank you your the first that gave me sound advice , the others that just said i had post in wrong section

I would start a new post in the IS section re your water loss problem, it is confusing going from headlights to head gaskets in the same post!

I am well aware what Tesla's sw is capable to. Good for you. Go ahead and buy another Tesla. Don't get me wrong, I would buy one, if it would fit my needs. 🙂 I would HAVE to agree that the sw on Lexus is from 1990's or at least that's how it feels like lol. As a person who is working in sw industry this is like a kick in the balls. Back to the topic and as a tip for anyone else struggling with this. I finally got it to work again... There is an email + username for the Lexus portal. You are able to use the email (or the username) to login. Now, I have succesfully connected my car with the combination of email + pw, but now I wasn't. I then tried to use only my username (aka lexus id) + pw and TADAAAAA, suddenly it works again, like a charm.

Hello there, First, you should really be using the pink long life coolant rather than water in your radiator, but if is disappearing then I suppose water is good enough until you find out where it is going. Half a pint certainly isn't much, but in my experience you shouldn't be losing any coolant, so any top up is probably a problem. Are you sure it isn't leaking anywhere? It might be difficult to spot as it could be quite a slow leak. Another benefit of the pink coolant is that it is rather easy to see when it escapes! Other than that, I am afraid the usual suspect would be the head gasket. You might notice some white smoke coming out the back if this is the case. Failing that, you would need to take the car to a garage for them to perform a 'sniff test'. This would determine if there are any hydrocarbons in the coolant, and if there are then the head gasket has definitely failed. Should the worse be confirmed, then my suggestion would be a good used replacement engine. Fingers crossed it is something much simpler though. Oh, and feel free to ignore those that might come on this thread to tell you you have bought the wrong car

I thought this thread was about 'foggy head lights'. The subject has been completely changed from that posted by the OP which is a discourtesy and furthermore is now directed specifically at a model outside this forum range so should be on a more appropriate section of the club.

It would be good news if the Lexus Dealer did not afford you the courtesy of a reply as you could then escalate the matter to Lexus.U.K.Head Office.It could not stand idly by whilst its hard earned reputation for exemplary customer service was in danger of being shredded.What would the Daily Mail say ?

When I get 10 minutes I'll do one. If you remove the black sensor (2 phillips screws), then take the magnet and spring off you can push the outer part of the plunger. It was always stiff so I used to squirt WD40 on it to free it up but it didn't last long. The photo above where it's gunked up, I wasn't holding it open, it stayed in that position when I pushed the rod. A good clean and soak in carb cleaner overnight it's as good as new with no resistance.

Well I've finally managed to finish off the job! Unfortunately my back was killing me and my head was still a little 'spinny' so I have to confess that I just ploughed on to get it done and forgot to take many photos. However, there are three below. The first one shows that just up in the passenger footwell where the carpet ends, there's a big rubber grommet that takes the existing wiring loom through the bulkhead. It wasn't too difficult to cut a hole in this grommet to take my conduit out the same way. From there I just ran it along under the carpet and took the centre console trim panel off to get it in behind there to where I wanted it - nothing can be seen and no one would know it's there. The second photo shows the wiring at the engine bay fuse box. Technically I should have used the 12V post under the red cover as that is the dedicated jump start connection, but the yellow insulation on the ring terminal made that quite difficult and it was easier to 'break out' of the other one. They're both permanently energised and a direct connection back to the battery anyway so it doesn't really matter. Because my new wires will be permanently connected to the battery it's essential to fuse the circuit, so I installed an in-line fuse-holder and put a 15A fuse in it. This will be plenty big enough to handle the jump start current but is small enough to protect the cable that I've just installed and prevent a fire in case of a chafed wire/short circuit. I connected the negative (or earth, if you prefer) wire to one of the bolts nearby. The final photo shows that it's all working and if I ever need to jump start her then I'll be able to do it from the comfort and dryness of the cabin, no matter what the weather's doing outside

Yes please. A guide would be amazing. I always assumed that the plunger type mechanism wasn't serviceable.

😆 But let's ditch the Tesla talk. I'm quite sure there is a forum for Tesla fanatics. I'm once again struggling with connection issues. Every now and then I get an error ID=00 and sometimes error ID=195. Dealer does NOT know anything with these error codes. Isn't it strange that there is verified resellers/dealers and yet they cannot help with error codes? - username and password are 100% sure correct as they have worked earlier - I can login into lexus portal and plan journeys and even send them to my vehicle - the problem is to a) login to the connected service, b) keeping it connected, c) downloading the planned journeys.

There was a Safety recall on this car a few years ago regarding a fuel seal on the engine and if you are in the UK you can check this on the .gov website but if you are non-UK then I am not sure how you can check if this is still outstanding.

Hello James and welcome to the LOC,hoping you find it informative and educational,congratulations on your new purchase,hopefully someone will help in answering your questions shortly 👍

I got it sorted in the end. What I didn't realise was that the pin the EGR is mounted on with the nut on the end can actually be removed! So I took that out, assembled the EGR and pipe back together off the car then refitted. Now I've done it once the next time will be alot easier. The valve was completely carb'd up and I'm not surprised it kept sticking! I've not driven the car for 4 months so had forgotten what it's like but it seems to be more responsive now when accelerating. It's not juddered yet but I've only been out in it twice. Does anyone want me to do a guide on how to remove it with photos?

Japanese people generally take huge pride in anything they do. I remember marvelling at condition of a refuse collection vehicle that stopped next to us as we walked in Kyoto. It was spotless, polished and burnished. Even the bin lifting mechanism was very clean. The worker's overalls were clean and pressed. The Japanese have a very special attitude to life, people and their environment. Self respect and the respect of others, something we, in the west, could learn a lot from.

Hi Gang thats for the next three services. The car is a sept 2015 so just under 5 years. It was with Toyota/Lexus service centre in Hayes Middlesex.

I read it as £700 for 3 services Gang.

I used one of these on my last car and it worked really, really well, so I can highly recommend them. There's plenty of Youtube videos showing how to do it too.

The manual is inaccurate in a couple of respects and makes it much more hassle than it needs to be. First of all, there's nothing magical or mysterious about jump starting any car, hybrid or conventional. All you are doing is supplementing one dodgy 12v source by piggybacking a good 12v source onto it and as long as you get red or + to red or +, and black or - to black or -, then that's basically it. It doesn't matter electrically if you connect the jump leads directly to the battery or if you use the jump start post in the engine bay fusebox, 12v is 12v and where it comes from matters not a jot. The only reason why you maybe should connect the negative cable to a bare metal part away from the battery is that a charging battery can give off Hydrogen gas and a spark as you disconnect the lead could ignite it and cause an explosion. However, in more than 45 years of driving and messing with jump leads I've never seen this happen in person, nor do I know anyone else who has ever seen it happen either. The advice to have the donor car's engine running isn't strictly necessary either. It would be for a conventional car but not if the recipient car is a hybrid. The reason for this is that a conventional car has a starter motor that will draw more than 300A when cranking the engine. Once the engine is running and the alternator is spinning, it's the alternator that supplies all of the car's electrical needs, so if the donor car's battery wasn't up to the job then the recipient car will draw current from the donor alternator, hence why the engine needs to be running. Our hybrids don't have starter motors (or alternators) so all that our 12v battery has to do is to boot the computers and get the hybrid system up and running, a process that takes less than 20A, which is something that the donor battery can quite easily supply on its own. As an aside, a hybrid should never be used to jump start another car (unless it's also a hybrid) for similar reasons. Our cars don't have alternators so the 12v battery is charged by means of a DC/DC converter, which takes power from the 288v traction battery and steps it down to about 14.5v. Remember that a conventional starter motor can draw over 300A to crank the engine, so if our 12v battery wasn't up to the job the recipient car would look to our equivalent of the alternator to provide it. Unfortunately, the DC/DC converters just can't supply that and there would most likely be a big bang and an escape of the magic smoke that makes the converter work, followed by a huge bill to replace it. Instead of jump leads which need a second car to be present, I carry a jump start battery pack similar to this one in the glovebox. They work really well and are well worth it for peace of mind alone. I've also fitted a much more convenient way of connecting it too, should I ever need to do it, as you'll see in this topic I posted recently: