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I did this job about 4 months ago and hoped that I wouldn't have to do it again, however over the last few weeks I have noticed that the car has been losing water, only a little bit but over a few weeks i'm putting in about 1/2 litre in order to top up. Looking over the engine I've spotted where the leak is coming from It looks like the joint between the EGR valve and the EGR cooler, however there is no water flow near this area, my first thought was either a hose but inspecting them they all seem good. Getting my hand around the EGR valve I could see the flow was coming from the EGR itself, there are two small bore water hoses and one of them was very wet. Ive no doubt you can take the EGR valve off without removing the cooler however one of the bolts that connects the cooler to the EGR is impossible to get at with a spanner, so I chose to remove the cooler and EGR. Tools you will need: 12mm, 11mm & 10mm spanner, open and ring. 12mm, 11mm, 10mm & 6mm 1/4 drive sockets along with extension bar and mini ratchet. E8 1/4 drive torx socket Long nosed pliers and mole grips Antifreeze a sheet of cardboard/old large box I have no doubt there are more effective ways of doing this, this way works for me. The EGR cooler is located at the back of the engine, held on by 2x12mm nuts, access is a little tight especially on the EGR side of the cooler. The other end isn't too bad firstly remove the engine cover the cable guide that runs across the engine is held on with 5x10mm nuts, undo these and all the electrical connections for 3 coil packs, cam sensors, fuel pump. the wiring loom is held on across the front of the engine in 3 places, disconnect the 3 plastic clips from the metal brackets. The loom should now be able to be moved to one side a little easier, it won't be possible to get it right out of the way, but it will be loose enough so it doesn't get in the way. At the same time disconnect the EGR valve electrical connector the rest of the work is now at the back of the engine. The high voltage cable are held in place by two brackets, the one on the inverter is held on with 2x10mm bolts, there are 2 grey plastic collars that connect the HV cables to the metal brackets, there is a little tab that needs to be bent back a bit to release the collar from the metal bracket. this allows the HV cables more freedom to move about. There is one more HV bracket, it is held on with 1x12mm nut and 2x12mm bolts, I couldn't get a picture of these as its too busy round the back of the engine, like the inverter bracket there are two grey collars, each one needs to be disconnected The engine wiring loom is also clipped to this bracket, you will need to get to the back of the bracket and pinch the wings of the retainer clip in order to free it from the bracket, finally removed........ once the bracket is removed and the cables moved off to one side you have a bit more access in the rear, the EGR cooler is held on with 2x12mm nuts, however the studs that locate the Cooler also needs to be removed as there isn't enough space to slide the cooler off the studs. this is a top down view, you can see the stud, this is one of two, the other is impossible to photo and removing that one means working blind. the stud can be removed using either a 6mm socket or an E8 torx if you look at the bracket on the EGR cooler you can see where the bottom bolt sits rather than undoing the 12mm nut it is easier just to remove the stud and nut in one go. either end of the EGR and cooler there are two metal pipes that are held on to the cooler/EGR with 2x12mm bolts per end, the cooler end is far easier to undo that the EGR end The cooler end, the easier end to deal with The EGR end, access is very restricted, 2x12mm bolts access is from underneath and will require a 6'' extension bar, the bolt closer to the engine can be turned one flat at a time. once the two pipes have been disconnected remove the gaskets that sit between the EGR/Cooler and the pipes, they are metal gaskets and dealer only parts. they do have clips that will hold the gaskets in place, but ive never trusted them. With the pipes disconnected all that's left is to disconnect the water pipes, there will be some antifreeze loss, I normally use plastic hose clamps to stem the loss of water, because ive been losing water I knew there wasn't going to be much loss so didn't bother. There are 4 hoses on the cooler assembly, 2 large and 2 small, the 2 smaller ones connect to the EGR, the 2 large ones connect to the cooler assembly. with them disconnected the whole unit can be jiggled out from the back of the head, I found that you have to move all the looms around a bit and tuck the pipework out of the way in order to get the unit out bit eventually it will come out. Once the old unit was off the car I would see where the issue lay, the metal pipe is an interference fit into the alloy body, this has come loose and is now leaking, luckily I have a spare EGR valve and Cooler that I had cleaned out and ready to be fitted. Now to quote the immortal Haynes manuals, refitting is the reverse of removal [emoji1787] Getting the studs back into the head can be a complete nightmare, I first put the two metal pipes on either end with the bolts done up hand tight, this holds the whole unit in place, from there I put the studs back in, connect the water hoses and then the bracket that hold the HV cables on. then its a case of going round and doing it all up tightly. connecting the HV cables to the brackets and putting the engine loom back in place. The whole job took about 4 hours, Why do it? The EGR coolers tend to gum up over time/mileage, when they do the exhaust gases struggle and tend to try and find the next weakest link in order to escape, now on the Prius and other Toyota engines this weak link is the head gasket. Mine was getting clogged at 140,000 miles, by 160/170,000 I guess it would have been completely clogged and so could have caused HG failure. And the cardboard.......you need that to put on top of the engine, whilst doing this job you are literally lying on the engine, and there are many exposed studs and nuts, the last time I did this I ended up with a bruised chest That’s the engine side of the one I used tonight

Looks to me like you have the wrong attitude for this club and owning a Lexus Ls 400 is not a given for being a contributor to this forum . As a lesson in manners and respect advised by a couple of members who have been contributing solid viable information for many years seems to be going over your head perhaps a different venue for your aggressive style is awaiting ,please head off there as we do not care for your input.

So all fixed phew! The mechanic changed the plugs first, error was still there. (£105 for the plugs) Then changed 1 faulty coil pack, all problems solved (£55). £60 for Labour, £220 all in. I'm happy with that. thanks for all the input. Here's hoping for problem free driving from now.

Well I am looking forward to seeing Malc, in his hydrogen powered tuktuk, driving back to Kent , after filling his overhead balloon storage tank, in Hendon. Sounds totally feasible to me 😂😂

Hi Peter Having had the same problem myself just after we bought our 2006 RX300 I feel for you.I suggest you leave it as it is as long as it is closed securely. We had a similar problem and, fortunately, it was fixed by the seller under warranty. As I recall they told me it it took about 23 hours of labour plus the parts. Probably more than your car is worth. To remove the roof it is necessary to remove the linings (which means starting at the bottom!) and the side airbags as well as most of the inside of the car. I think the motor itself was about £350 but the runners etc probably a bit less. I wouldn't consider second hand items for this as if they broke again you would not be happy! I have attached a few depressing photos of the car halfway through. Mike

“So let’s hear the proven facts” If you were interested in wanting to find out more on this guy then a search of this site will bring up the facts and people who have been ‘wronged’ by this man in the past ( adjusting ad’s after sale to remove certain info) and I for one would definitely want to be warned of any dodgy ( proven ) dealer if I were looking for a certain car. It sort of sounded like you were almost defending him! And if you do actually go and view/deal with this guy then best of luck and the caveat is you have knowledge of his history

3 hours ago, Greer said: "In which case, to say that in the way you have then (a) what court, (b) when & (c) what 'legal' charge was he found guilty of? (dodgy dealing is not a charge) you made your statement as a statement of fact so lets hear the proven facts" Its all there in the archives, you will need to do a little searching. Newspaper articles who did the reporting in court he is currently on a suspended prison sentence for his last trip to HM courts where he was prosecuted last.

Same respect here for Baz, he’s been a FB friend of mine for years and I often gets ribbed for changing cars so often, last change was a few weeks ago from Honda Legend back to another Lexus. The difference is Baz will spend money on any car he buys to bring them up to his standard, if it needs a cam belt it will get one, spend hours cleaning and polishing then maybe sell it again. As for the Dudley dude, he is obviously a motor trader in the job as a money making business but tries to avoid his legal obligations as such and has convictions for dodgy dealings. I know who I would rather buy a car from.

Old Baz actually contacted me after he acquired my car, he really does just like to play around with them. He's a really nice man and far from being some dodgy dealer, unlike our Dudley fellow! Just as well euthanasia isn't available for the over fifties (or anyone for that matter) otherwise I'd have been posting from beyond the grave for years!

If listening to, and watching, this doesn’t make you smile then you have no soul! Amazing...😆

Keep what you have Martin.Drive it into the ground and watch the mugs all around you.

The bearings for the tensioner pulley arrived today so I decided to do this part of the coolant pump replacement. Only one lefthand "clockwise to undo" threaded bolt to undo, and the pulley was off. After pressing out the inner sleeve from the two old bearings then the bearings from the pulley I can now confirm that the 6203RS bearings are the correct ones to use. The old bearings although having no play in them were obviously past there best at circa 145,000 miles sounding very dry when spun. The new bearings when fitted in comparison as expected were very smooth, and silent in operation. Total cost of bearings £2-50 so quite a saving on Lexus pulley prices. I have yet to remove the coolant pump "a job for tomorrow", but the pulley on the pump has a small amount of side play, but know sign of leakage. This pump was identified by Lexus main dealer as needing changing 50,000 miles ago. I have fresh Toyota SLLC coolant ready to go in after fitting the pump. John.

Hi, guys. Today I installed an Android Head unit in my Lexus RCF. It wasn’t easy, but all’s well after 6 hours of work. Everything works well. It’s the latest version Android 9.0 with 4GB RAM and a 64 GB hard disk. IMG_2702.MOV

Hi Cesar, welcome to the club, i do recall it being discussed on here the the gearbox from IS200 will not fit or work with the 2JZ-GE engine engine block. Have a read of this article below on manual gearboxes which are compatible. http://is-elite.com/manual-transmission-options-for-the-is300/

A few updates from me. Just back from the detailers. Also painted my calipers and 15mm spacers all round. Well pleased with how it’s looking now.

I believe I watched one on Freeview 81 a few weeks back, yes Malc

reminds me a little of the Dads Army butchers van with the hydrogen balloon on the top ............... .. and BANG ............. bang chitty chitty seriously, not seen any Met police cars for a very long time ...... bet they can just fly along and beat all the traffic jams, just like in the Dukes of Hazzard zipping along over all and anything Malc you can tell what I'm re-watching during lockdown !

Right lets stop it right there.

I changed the coolant pump today along with the tensioner pulley with the new bearings fitted. The job was easier than anticipated once the many hoses to the thermostat housing, and the housing it's self were removed along with a couple of plastic tidy panels on either side of the engine. After the injection ECU is unbolted from the front drivers side of the engine, and swung out of the way on it's wires the many bolts holding the pump could be removed. These come in two sizes with 10 &11 mm spanner size heads. All the 10 mm are the same length and all the 11 mm are the same as each other but longer than the 10 mm. This means the bolts cannot be fitted in the wrong places making reassembly easy. After removing the pump internally the pump, and the engine block looked as new with no signs of corrosion. The new pump was fitted, and fresh Toyota SLLC coolant installed. There were no problems with bleeding out air. Just run the engine, and top up the coolant as air bubbles rise, and coolant level goes down. Some may ask why I did not change the thermostat while I had the housing off, but this is easy to change at any time, and I see no reason to replace a working item. The engine when standing at the front of the car with it running is noticeably quieter "no dry bearing rasping sounds". I drained, and refilled the inverter coolant fluid to complete the coolant part of the service. Items left to do are differential oil change, and gearbox oil pump electric motor bearings. My problem is I have to do this on ramps so far from ideal. John.

Another deviation Pete ?

NO, it was in Oktober 19 sorry.

I just wouldn't imagine that any normal person would even consider buying any sort of car from a known convicted car fraudster, coz that's what he is AND I'm only eternally grateful that this particular trader has been so publicly exposed with a conviction with his bad car trading that at least those on here have the opportunity to avoid him like as if he had a plague of some sort The sad thing is that it probably taints any other Dudley car traders, as the area maybe has others that are all ok but sadly tainted by him being in their location It's a great thing that he has been so exposed and that any of his trading names now and in the future that can be linked to him are also known by at least the Members here from time to time Being savvy or not, it's absolutely your choice as to whom you may wish to give your money to ....... but please remember that you have been duly advised of his conviction Malc

Thanks for the complete feedback Rameez.

An interesting short read in the Lexus newsletter today. https://blog.lexus.co.uk/motorsport-milestones-lexus/?ac=C7926&mc=E02&URN=5901745

He talks a lot but it's a bit misleading that he's standing next to a hybrid Toyota. I don't think he's actually talking about the e-CVT or power split device on hybrid Toyotas and Lexuses. Instead he seems to be talking about a conventional belt-drive CVT that Toyota announced in the last couple of years with something called a launch gear. As far as I can see, lacking many clear details,Toyota were trying to deal with the problem that a lot of people like their gearboxes to jolt as they switch ratios (because people have been used to this for 100 years and can't get used to the idea that it's not necessary). So this belt-drive CVT has a launch gear to get you started quickly (by contrast, the hybrid e-CVT has electric motors to get you started quickly) and it has fixed ratios so that the driver can feel the jolt as it changes ratios. Here's a video that explains what this new belt drive CVT gear box does. So presumably it also has a torque converter like a conventional automatic. Maybe I've misunderstood this - if anyone has more details it would be interesting to hear them. It also seems to have a lot more moving parts than the mechanically simple and elegant e-CVT. I'm sure it works well but for reliability I'd choose the hybrid transmission with few moving parts.

It takes some time to find out the best settings that suit you: there is so many things you can adjust on those. I'd claim that you can get the same ride as oem, if you wish... I wanted to lower the car a bit, and get a bit more "firm" ride. I got that... Many times the coilovers are for sport-setups, which are (IMHO) too hard/uncomfortable. Pay attention which kind of setup you order... Actuators are on my garage's table. No codes from that 😉 One piece of details: the oem actuator is able to turn the damper pin about 100 degrees only. That 100 degrees corresponds to about 4 "clicks" on my coilovers (max. is about 32 "clicks" = more than 3 full rounds). So the oem adjustment is rather limited in that sense too... BR.Sami

Sheffield are back open for parts and service.

The fact they have told you that waiting is ok must mean they whole dealership is open from 1st June. Hoping that sales departments will have plenty of business to keep these dealerships sound.

Well done for a very detailed post! I hope I don't have to do this job as it looks a real pain in the arse.... I'm sure this will help other owners with the same problem. Sent from my G8142 using Tapatalk

Hi @ColinBarber thankyou for the recommendation. We have free shipping on orders over £50 for all owners club members using code ownerclubmemberfs Please let us know if there is anything else you need!

Scotty, the shy and reserved car expert on YouTube has done a video about the Corolla's E-CVT:

Hi Paul, I was in exactly same situation year ago: one leaking rear shock and with less money than changing both oem rear shocks, I was able to get new BC racing coilovers every corner 😉 I actually did a small experiment with the actuators: I connected one back, added a small visual scale there and took a video with GoPro to see how much the actuator will actually do any adjustment while driving. Result: nothing at all. At least in speeds under 120km/h. I did try with Sport and Normal modes, but no difference. The only movement was when power was turned on: then the actuator moves to both directions (probably to reset the settings). Btw, I ordered my BC Racing coilovers with softer springs, and I've been really happy with them. BR.Sami

B Apparently a very common issue in Naples an Sicily when you upset certain families ⚰️

Mine's giving me 5 weeks to the gallon... But as an aside I've had the time to give her a really good exterior spruce up: thorough wash, clay bar, Meguiars DA cut & finish and followed up with Turtle Wax ceramic. Absolutely gleaming now and rready for a top-down day out. 😄 R

Lexus Swindon (https://www.lexuspartsdirect.co.uk) give discounts from RRP and a good source of genuine parts. Full service list depends on mileage/year. e.g. air filter is only inspected every 2 years/20k miles and replaced every 4 years/40k miles. Diff oil is replaced every 4 years/40k miles. Cabin filter every 2 years/20k miles in normal conditions. Spark plugs every 60k miles. If you are capable of changing diff oil then you can certainly check and regrease your calliper slide pins. I'd say the cabin filter is mis-priced on Ebay. Should only be around £30. You can get aftermarket ones with carbon for less than £10.

Here are some photos finally...

Welcome Siddie Unfortunately I don't believe there is a way to see the engine ECU error codes without using an ODBII tool. The most simplest of tools to use would be something like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Foseal-Reader-Scanner-Display-Screen/dp/B07RQCP5PY/ref=pd_sbs_60_1/261-0266801-2814428?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07RQCP5PY&pd_rd_r=c1704375-01f0-4a64-a5fa-e54e55fb2f8d&pd_rd_w=nHuFm&pd_rd_wg=QJCHf&pf_rd_p=2773aa8e-42c5-4dbe-bda8-5cdf226aa078&pf_rd_r=60672HJKDY9RX2YZY1D5&psc=1&refRID=60672HJKDY9RX2YZY1D5 The menus you can get to from the LCD screen are for the information system - it won't help with engine codes unfortunately. There is also a method to flash codes but that only related to the body ECU which controls electric windows etc.

I thought all businesses that traded and gained financially did. So Dr reception may not have to but insurance would. Especially since insurance advice is also legally standing. Of course, I could be talking out of my arse! lol

Hello Lee, Thanks for your welcome. I’ll add some photos soon. The idea of buying a GS 2006-2011 hybrid has been eating away at me for some time. My BMW E39 has been off the road prior to lockdown with a repair so I had an excuse of sorts... I’ve watched all the ads and reviews on You Tube, downloaded all the reviews from across the world ... and still can’t get enough of reading about and watching the technology... The acceleration is amazing and enjoyable. A few dash rattles to resolve and other bits and pieces I’d like to replace like the chrome exhaust tips. I'm a little worried about the hybrid battery but you only live once... Which GS model do you have? Cheers.

Thanks. I have time and date so if they deny saying it they have the recording to deliver what was actually said. As for not having the authority, I believe that the law is on my side here since I made every effort to clarify the situation and her response was clear and unambiguous.

To echo a point made earlier. They bang on about the whine of a cvt but not an engine bouncing off the limiter. By asking for full throttle maximum acceleration. The ICE goes to max output and rev limit and stays there. Very efficient. In the mean time the CVT does it's thing to bring the road speed up to the desired/appropriate level seamlessly. The moment the desired speed is achieved. Foot off the accelerator, and lightly back on, ICE revs plummet. CVT again adjusts to maintain speed. Now in virtual silence as ICE is maybe doing 1450rpm @ 70mph (rx400h) By asking for full throttle maximum acceleration. The ICE goes to max output which is likely to be making far more noise, then a change of gear is required and the process starts again, regaining the lost revs due to the change. The moment the desired speed is achieved. Foot off the accelerator, and lightly back on, ICE revs reduce. ICE is maybe doing 3000rpm @ 70mph. Obviously talking petrol not diesel as Lexus do not do diesel. Does the CVT whine or is it the ICE? But how long does it last? Once up to speed. Noises off. Can the same be said for traditional, normal box, DSG or other wise. Talking to the converted here. But just needed to air that. Horses for courses. The IS is about luxury and arriving in style. (side observation, how few I have seen on the road. 1. Exclusivity!) I don't even have one yet, but I get it. I like my creature comforts. But, I am also happy listening to my MR2 (even fewer) sing it's own song. Edit Once the penny dropped in the Prius. CVT = linear delivery. In my urban commute world, 0-30 0-40 far more relevant than 0-60. To pull away from the lights and arrive at 30 - 40 seamlessly just gives me a warm fuzzy feeling. The Prius,viewed by many as the slowest car in the world. Er, nope. I'm at the regulation speed before many have even grabbed for 2nd. Too late. Nothing to do with racing, but just sitting there at the lights, no ICE, utter silence and then 400nm of torque (if required) from 0 revs silently delivered in a linear manner. To think that was a 1.5

New battery fitted today...... Still wouldn't start 😞😞 Checked the handbook, followed the advice, closed the door, opened it, tried again. No luck. Did it once more, started straight up. Actually feels faster now!! #placeboeffect

Despite reading and watching lots of tutorials around changing A/C Condenser, I seemed to have missed the bit about depressurising the system (I know, I know). Step 1) I started to unbolt the top pipe on the condenser - which had welded itself to the unit and sheared off Step 2) I started to unbolt the bottom pipe when BOOM!!!! Hell of a bang, green fluid everywhere and the missus coming running out the house to see what had happened. Needless to say, I washed everything up, and called it a day. Left ear (which was closest to the BOOM) is still ringing and I feel a right idiot. Ouch.

My GSF PCP % is 3.7, I put 0 deposit in, other than my old CT (on a PCP at the time), which they said had £1k equity in it. I'd say for the car, that % is very reasonable! However, we are talking 2 years ago, so I realise times change 🙂