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Ok guys, just an update and a close to this thread (thankfully) though I must walk with my tail between my legs admittedly. So the car was getting worse, had it booked in to go to my local garage at the end of this week so I thought I would try one last thing, the MAF sensor. Now at the time of ordering the part from ebay (aftermarket brand, not Denso) I forgot that I had already cleaned and then replaced the MAF a couple of months ago with a new Denso unit and dismissed that as being a cause of my issues as nothing changed upon replacement. BUT...the new MAF arrived Saturday, had to drive out to the collection office on sunday to pick it up, car drove like a pig as per usual but I eventually arrived and fitted it in the car park. WHAT A DIFFERENCE!!! All my issues are gone and I mean ALL of them, no lag, no hesitation, no lurching....it's like a brand new car and all for an £18 MAF on ebay! So it makes me wonder if I had picked up a dodgy Denso MAF a couple of months ago! Having come from owning a load of IS200's and a CT, I always felt like they had a lot more power than my LS....not any more! The LS absolutely flies!! Suffice to say, if your car is suffering from lag or lack of throttle response, check the MAF first and replace with a cheap unit before forking out for Denso! if nothing else, it's a good diagnostic tool. Seems like I was so caught up with my gearbox and assuming that was the issue, I didn't think to stop and go back to the basics! Thank you to all contributors to this thread, you've prompted me to do some preventative maintenance while trying to sort my issue so there is a plus side haha.

With the greatest of respect Karen, if you haven't taken the engine covers off to look what's beneath them and you're being stumped at this first hurdle, perhaps having a garage or auto electrician do the work for you may be the best option? I don't mean that in a nasty way, just trying to save you hassle. Personally, I would tap into the high beam fuse which will possibly be in the engine bay fusebox but I don't know for sure as I don't have a 2016 car. Also, how much power does this light bar take? If it's too much for that circuit to handle along with the high beams, you'll probably have to wire in a relay to do the switching so that it switches on with the high beams but gets its power from somewhere else, ie, direct from the 12V battery rather than the high beam circuit.

Yes i found it when i was removing the seat covers. Every import ive had has had one

I actually prefer fake tips to real tips - glad the predictive text didn’t correct me there! 🙈 I loved the ISF tips 👍

Thanks Herbie. I had a strut replaced a couple of years ago and it was £1k when I could justify the cost because of the vehicle's age. I'll look into a repair first off as all else seems OK at the moment. It's "only' done 90,000 miles. I saw the one on ebay Mr Shandy and it does have a 3m warranty but I think that's plan B. Plan C is the springs route but thanks for the feedback both of you. Simon.

I did a CT to GSF... bit mad I know, but 0 regrets

Sounds annoying. I had something similar on our old Volvo (2011 V70) - if it needed servicing it would remind you when you started the car, and again when you turned it off - this seemed to me a very sensible way of doing the reminders. However, if you were driving along, used the windscreen washer and tripped it below the "low" level in the washer tank, it would then flash up a message, with the big orange warning triangle on the dash, reminding you to fill up the washer fluid. It would continue to do this, EVERY 5 MINUTES. I did have moments of ending up yelling at the car "YES! I KNOW! I'M DOING 70 DOWN THE M6, WHAT IS IT THAT YOU WANT ME TO DO ABOUT THIS?!!!". The worse part of this was that the screenwash tank on the volvo was so big (over 5 litres) that what the car considered "low" was about the same amount of screenwash as was full to the brim in my Leaf. I've seen a few other instances of this kind of "helpful" approach by cars. I try my best to avoid driving manual cars these days, but when I do I am infuriated by gear change indicators. I do, in fact, know when to change gear if I'm driving a manual and you, mr car, do not know that I can see there's a hill or that i want to be ready to overtake or whatever.... Either shut up about what gear you think I should be in, or DO IT YOURSELF.

On our sadly departed XC90 I had both. Ran Nokian WR SUV 3 winters year round and they were superb but I suppose may have worn a little quicker. Absolutely unstoppable in snow. Then swapped those for Pirelli Scorpion All Seasons because the price was good. Again, no problems but not quite as sure footed in snow. Never had a problem, I just had to be a bit more cautious. You can thank me later for not answering your question in any way

Yesterday I was in a traffic jam and it rained a bit. I opened my window a bit and I felt relaxed. Then the car asks me whether it wants to close the window for me. No, I just opened it. Then a few minutes later, its asks me again. NO, I opened it and I can close it when I want to. The button to do so is very close to my hand. You don't have to ask me. I don't need you to ask me. Now, the default answer is no; the message goes away quite quickly, but it does continue to pop up and starts to distract me. Yes, I say, I'm now talking to the car, I know there is some rain coming into the car. I can see this, I still want my window open, that is why I opened it. And when I feel like closing it, or when it gets too wet, I will clsoe it, so stop bothering me. Really, I can do this by myself and I don't want to be distracted. So, stop. That was when I started to wonder. Who, oh who, came up with this idea that we needed a car to ask us this. Who sits in a car, or in his design studio, and thinks I wish that my car would ask me to helkp me close my window? And I wonder: what were his other ideas? What were the ones that he/she came up with that Lexus thought that they were silly, a bit over the top?

Anybody have experience of the model (or similar) with conventional springs and air suspension to evaluate ride/handling comparison? I suppose various shocks might make quite a difference anyway. Must say the air suspension on my RX450h doesn't ride as smoothly as some cars I have had with steel springs and is particularly more jarring for pot holes. A dealer told me that Lexus had discontinued the air suspension on the 4th Generation RX 450h. Whether this is because the air suspension has proved too troublesome, is no better than steel springs or just to contain costs is conjecture. Anyway, interesting that converting to steel springs a is a fall back alternative for OP.

One Solar Flare Orange RCF parked safely on my drive. 😎😎😎 And you need sun glasses with this colour. 😁😀 Already had a nice comment when I stopped to get fuel. Very nice car mate. 👍 Not had time to play much today. Start that tomorrow 😉 Jonathan

Make sure it has a Japanese coin hidden away somewhere, for good luck. My Soarer did when I got it, and my RX does!

Unfortunately I'm from down south and normally any snow has melted by lunch time .ok if we do get snow it's for a few days at most and we normally just shout down the phone to the boss there a bloody inch of snow out there it's too dangerous to go to work lol.i will fit a half track rear end just in case .lol

Yes, but you gotta remember you have switched out of ACC when using CSC! Or you could be surprised to say the least! Don’t ask me why!

Have you put a spanner on the crankshaft pulley bolt and made sure that the engine turns and isn't seized up?

Most people don't bother repairing anything to do with the air suspension and change to springs instead. I believe it's over £500 for one air strut and given the age, it's likely that they'll start to go any time soon, so you could get the compressor sorted and then have to start on them. Much better to cut your losses now before it becomes a money pit. If you really want to get it repaired, a quick google shows loads of places in Surrey but obviously they may be more building site and/or garage compressor-oriented rather than automotive ones but got to be worth a call to find out.

I have noticed that when I first start the car the DRL's are off until I release the parking break then they come on and stay on until I switch the ignition off..

This is simple to correct. The padded side panels are easily removed with a pry tool. You then remove the silver side strakes by unscrewing a few simple Philips-head screws (no stupid Torx screws on Lexi). If you want to then remove the main centre console, you pull up the Remote Touch and cupholder assembly (it just clips in). You then undo a hidden Philips screw on the drivers side underneath the transmission selector and unclip the console with a pry tool. You will notice some felt padding from the factory. To improve it, all you need to do is buy some felt tape from Amazon then cover every clip and all areas where parts touch each other. When you reassemble, you should see a marked improvement. The great thing with the Lexus interior is that the fundamental build is nice and tight, simplistic and solid. So when you do this kind of work, it pays off because the basic quality is good. I once tried to do this on a Jaguar XF and it was nigh on impossible to get it solid because the design was overcomplex and the parts used where flimsy.

thanks for the replies, chaps. Appreciated

Thats what my sons calling it. It may not be staying. The wifes not keen

Hi Try this site as they specialise in this model, Richard whose site is is fixes SC430! https://forum.lexusownersclub.com 2ddesign

Gloves with the string backs ???

Yay! Winter tyre thread!

I'm looking forward to some snow, now I have new Michelin Cross Climates... I find that 'snow' button helps to. And proper deicer and screen wash - I like Prestone... And old style driving gloves when the steering wheel is cold...

Hello Mike, My 2007 RX400h has a worn n/s front wheel bearing which can heard droning on right hand bends eg roundabouts. I have found YouTube to be a good source of information on the bearing replacement procedure. Not many videos for specific RX models but a search for the Camry model (which has a similar hub set up) will turn up a useful video. Getting the hub removed from the vehicle is fairly straightforward for a competent DIYer but the hard part is pressing out the hub + old bearing and then pressing in a new bearing + hub. Ken

Hi, I've just had a set of 18s fitted to my LS400. What tyre pressures are you running? As not being a standard side it won't be published anywhere. The wheel company said, start at 34psi which is pretty vague? Thanks! Alex. Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk

Even if they don't know what they're doing, that's good advice from Peter because you could then post the results in here and give us something to work with.

Cheers appreciate your info/advice. Bought the car. Think I got a good deal (at least I think I did - do you ever?) They are getting the hybrid battery checked through Lexus, two year Gold AA warranty with full recovery as part of warranty. Fully serviced before as well. Also alloys refurbed (gone for a Matt black as car is red and black and all paint work checked and protected. Will get the big Lexus service next time - we won’t be doing many miles so ought to tie in. Thanks again to everyone. Really pleased.

I know at first this may sound crazy, but have you checked the oil level in the engine. The Prius is known under certain circumstances to use engine oil. If the owner does not check the oil on a regular basis it is possible for the engine to run out of oil, and seize. This then gives rise to the symptoms you have or have had. A rumbling engine, and then an engine that will not crank. In this situation the engine will need replacing Because the engine will not turn the hybrid battery becomes discharged trying to turn the engine. This in turn stops charging the 12 volt battery discharging it. There will be no hybrid codes in theory because the hybrid system does still work. Although there may be codes that the reader being used is not Toyota compatible. Under normal conditions there would be codes for an under voltage hybrid battery along with engine did not start codes. There would also be other codes that I will not go into. John.

MPX-B supplies the door ECUs and Radio No.1 supplies the Body ECU which in part controls the interior lighting. I would be looking for a light being on somewhere like the glove box or boot, pop a camera phone in on video record then see if the light stays on when closed. I have the OEM Electrical Wiring Manual which is around 400 pages, you are quite welcome to lend it for the cost of postage to yourself and back.

I could see some occasions when it might be useful. Clearly the car recognises the fact it's raining, or does it also ask when it's dry? Does the car ask to close the sunroof when it starts raining? Is there an option in the setup menus to disable the feature?

i have just finished removing the centre console on my IS the only part that may catch you out is a hidden screw on the drivers side once the side panels have been removed under the selector window there is a philips screw this needs to be removed before you can go any further. on all contact points and all slots that have a clip fitted i covered them in a felt / wiring tape i've made a quick sketch showing how i covered the slots i then silicone sprayed the clips and refitted everything so far so good i have tried by hand to move the console and it feels quiet solid far better than before.

I know this has been discussed before, but having requested advice on various issues, I thought I'd put a recommendation on that someone may find useful. Having had two genuine Toyota batteries fail after around 3 years, my current one just out of warranty, I thought it was time to shop around. It's been said on this forum that only a Toyota battery will fit properly, this is not true. After some research, looking at spec, branding, warranties and price, I decided I wanted a Bosch battery , the S4 series with a 4 year warranty. I just fitted a Bosch S4 026 battery and it is a perfect fit. The spec matches my Toyota battery exactly, with 630A and 70 Ah. So I have a new battery, same spec with 4 year guarantee instead of 3, and it was cheaper. For those with a Costco card, they sell them at the lowest price (it may be a special order and take a couple of days, although I was lucky, they had one in stock), without the potential faff and expense of buying online and potentially having to return a heavy battery by post if a fault develops. If you get one, the correct battery is the S4 026, not the S4 027, which is identical except the terminals are the wrong way around, don't ask me how I know. Hopefully, someone may find this useful. For those of you with a cynical bent, I have no connection with either Bosch or Costco, it's just a recommendation

Didn't know Toyota batteries were so bad. I put a genuine Toyota battery in mine just after I bought my LS430 after seeing they were much cheaper then the equivalent Bosch battery. Anyway I've used Bosch in all my previous cars and they've served me well so you shouldn't have any issues. Another good place to pick them up is Euro Car Parts during their sales. I got my last battery from them with a 50% discount!