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Managed to get in touch with someone finally. Although not local (I'm in Eastbourne,he's in Ashford Kent) he seems to know what he's talking about. It's probably a valve that's got a bit of crud in and released the gas between nozzle and tank. Taking pictures to send to him tomorrow so he can identify it more accurately. Safe to drive (thankfully) just not going to refill with LPG 'til fixed.

I would recommend phoning Chris or Ian at Westfield Motors, Rayleigh. It's a Toyota/Lexus independent that's been there for a good many years, and they used to sell LPG. They should be able to advise as to whether it's a fault with your car, or the station pump. The freezing effect of vaporizing liquid gas is to be expected, which of course is the principle behind refrigeration. Hopefully you got away with it, but do get yourself checked out if you have any lasting adverse effects.

I never take any notice of the indicator lights as they are notoriously inaccurate. Best to fill it, set the trip odometer to zero, then see how many miles you get out of that tankful (only refill when empty) and use that as your "time to fill up again" indicator. For example, if you get 300 miles out of that tankful, every time you fill up, reset your trip odometer and when you get to, say, 240 miles, start looking for a filling station - it's much better than relying on the red and green lights. Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

No way on earth is that normal! When the lever is released after filling, the small amount of liquid propane between the nozzle and the tank filler is no longer under pressure and is released as a quick PSSST of gaseous propane - certainly not a 5-second squirt of liquid that would get on his trousers.

Happy Christmas from me too, I'm just about to chop in my C Class Estate for a 2010 RX450h SEi. Getting very excited. Will be a nice contrast to my wife's CT200H. Lots to learn about the car, I'm sure it will knock the Merc into a corner. Ed

... are you being nice enough to your car ? they do have feelings you know Malc

Back in 1974 I started a four-year apprenticeship to become an electrician at Courtaulds factory here in Preston. Don't ask me why, but management decided it would be a good idea for apprentice electricians to spend four weeks in the garage with the auto electrician, working on the trucks and cars. One day, one of the skip trucks came in and the driver said, "Watch this". Every time he pressed the footbrake the windscreen wipers came on! It turned out to be a faulty earth connection. They can produce all sorts of weird and wonderful effects, so my money is still on that being your problem somewhere.

Even more quiet .. That's because we are all very happy with our purchases

I like the metallic red RX with white and biscuit leather interior. I saw it at Lexus Birmingham recently. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Never in 16/17 years have I ever had that or heard of it. Just need to get it sorted.

i had various LPG cars before but never experienced what you are describing. it would set off all alarmbells with me sounds very dangerous. Best to bring it to a specialist before using the car again..

According to my handbook for the RC300h HSA does operate in reverse.. Perhaps you could find a copy of the target car's handbook? Try the Lexus Portal Operating conditions of hill-start assist control When the following four conditions are met, the hill-start assist control will operate: ● The shift lever is in a position other than P or N (when starting off forward/backward on an upward incline). ● The vehicle is stopped. ● The accelerator pedal is not depressed. ● The parking brake is not engaged. ■ Automatic system cancelation of hill-start assist control The hill-start assist control will turn off in any of the following situations: ● The shift lever is moved to P or N. ● The accelerator pedal is depressed. ● The parking brake is engaged. ● Approximately 2 seconds elapse after the brake pedal is released.

It does sound like something is wrong, I have run out a couple of times but filled again as normal, who did the conversion? profess garantees their parts for life providing you do the services .

I always try to fill up before it gets completely empty - after all, the idea is to be running on lovely, cheap gas and not expensive petrol, so I rarely let it get completely empty. However, it has happened a few times when there's not been an LPG filling station around so the tank has completely emptied and the system has switched back to using petrol, but no, just filling from empty has never resulted in a scenario like you describe above. I'd say that there's definitely something wrong there. The filler cut-off should have operated but sounds like it didn't, but it also sounds like the safety valve isn't working either because I think it's supposed to vent as gas, not liquid - and it certainly wouldn't come out of the filler point anyway. Get it to a gas specialist ASAP John and let us know how you get on.

Another little problem that someone may be able to help with please. In the centre of the dashboard where I normally see what mpg I am doing, I now have a sign that says 'audio off' and some wording underneath that says something like 'push for source' but, whatever button I press I can't get rid of it. I'm sure that someone knows any easy answer. Why do they have to mess with things all the time. Someone once mentioned that they had to re-tune their radio stations after the car had been in for some work, the mechanic or whatever obviously didn't like the owners choice!

@Grey One Hopefully the advances in performance mods happening in the US (supercharger etc) will bring some more chat. I also blame Lexus for building a car that doesn't go wrong all that often (touch wood) ;-). It would make much more sense to have a general 'F' forum (ISF, GSF, RCF) which would boost the numbers. The forum was invaluable when I purchased my ISF in February so would be good to keep it going strong in 2017.

Hello Mujahid and welcome to the LOC. Looking at the report,taking into account your student spending powers and dependent on your own car DIY expertise I would concentrate on the steering and braking problems first as these are safety critical. Replace the lower ball joint which includes the track rod end ball joint in one unit ( around £80.00 for the part from Lexus). The play in the steering column, check all the pinch bolts for tightness and correct torque, there was a known issue with the type of bolts fitted on some models but not sure if this affected the IS models. Check the caliper slide pins on the rear brakes as they have a tendency to seize and cause uneven pad and disc wear, if they are still removeable regrease them, if totally stuck solid worst case senario is new caliper. Coolant level keep an eye on it, same with oil level, if the oil is just seeping put up with it for now. Mirror, if you can see through it OK leave for now. AC condenser again leave for now. There is nothing special about working on these cars, if you have friends or family in the trade ask them before paying a garage to do the work.

This is my colour combination,

Happy Christmas Piers and happy motoring over the festive period.

And a Very Merry Christmas and a Happy and Prosperous New Year from me too. And I'll also echo PCM's comments about how helpful, informed and just really nice people you are. It's a brilliant forum because of you. Geoff

No, the CT doesn't have shoes. Only Pads. The reason the front pads don't stick is because the parking brake only applies the brakes to the rear wheels.

Agreed. This is my first exposure to this type of automatic transmission, coming from the common brake-band/clutch type. The eCVT is so smooooth, then add the artificially created ratios in Sport mode, best of both worlds. Plus must be more reliable, easily maintained considering there's no engaging, disengaging of cogs or friction bands

Hello Jonny and welcome to the LOC. With the new battery discharging so quickly overnight it sounds like a heavy current draw from somewhere, even leaving an interior light on all night is unlikely to completely flatten the battery. The best way to determine parasitic current draw is by using a clamp type ammeter on the main battery lead, from what I remember this should be around 18 - 25mA You can also use a conventional digital multimeter set to measure current but be aware these generally only measure a maximum of 10 Amps, there are plenty of tutorials for the safe procedure on YouTube. If your parasitic current draw is well in excess of the normal figure then begin diagnosis by removing individual fuses and rechecking the current draw each time, if it drops to the normal level when a particular fuse is pulled then the circuit the fuse supplies is the one to investigate further. If removing non of the fuses makes any difference then the alternator could be suspect with a faulty regulator or diode pack or you may have a damaged cable going to earth although the latter is usually obvious by the smoke it produces! Although unlikely check your boot light is going off when it is closed, at one time this meant someone being shut in there but simply place your camera phone in there on video record mode and then check the playback. Just out of curiosity were you aware of this problem when you bought the car?

Before you measure any rest current your car has to get into "sleep mode". Keep in mind that in order for the car to sleep at all, it must be off and nothing can be "touched" (no opening of the trunk or doors, no pressing any buttons on the key fob, etc.) If something is touched, the timer starts all over again. How long it takes for it "to go to sleep" I am not quite sure, but 30 minutes should be enough and rest current should be under 0,05Amps (50mA) For comparison my 1997 LS400 has a rest current of 24,8mA. Alarm went off at about 11,82Volts. Batterie should be charged when less than 12,4Volts (75%). Procedure of how I did it and got a reading of 24,8mA: - Turn ignition off and pull the key - Open engine bonnet and close its lock with a screwdriver - Close all doors - leave the battery connected and arm the anti theft deterrent system either by key or by key fob.....and check security lamp if it works - to be sure leave the car alone for about 30 - 60 minutes (I went back to the car after about one hour) - go back to the car's battery and measure rest current without interrupting the current. Before disconnecting the battery put the pair of test leads (black one/-)to the negative battery terminal and the other (red one/+/amps or mA) to the negative terminal clamp.......now disconnect carefully terminal and clamp.

The RC in whatever guise is not and was never meant to be a sports car. It's a Grand Tourer and in my opinion acquits itself very well. Coming from a supercharged 5.4 V8 I can appreciate RC is not a traffic light drag star but cruising the UK's A and B roads it's very credible. Super relaxed at all legal speeds, confident through the twisties and with sufficient mid-range urge to get past those 'Sunday drivers'. Oh, and it looks the dogs danglies

Not an answer to your question I'm afraid Mitesh but, I noticed that you say your car is a 2016 model, which means that it's still under the original warranty. I'd think twice about making any modifications to it at all yet, just in case it might invalidate the warranty.

2008 69,000. Was 43.000 three years ago when I got it. No point having it unless its used!