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  1. You might like http://regisearch.co.uk/ I believe a guy on Pistonheads created it. You can get the full tax, mot status and mot history in one place. Really useful!
    3 points
  2. Tried this website yesterday and thought it might be of interest to you all , I wish this site was available before I bought my car it would have given me hints on poor maintenance in its past life ! https://www.check-mot.service.gov.uk/ Allan
    1 point
  3. Congratulations @Huutch you've made a great choice with the ISF !
    1 point
  4. I have install restored ECO unit from LScowboyLS, what can i say, It runs like it newer runs before, 100% perfekt idle, not up and down, engine sounds cleaner. Now i changes sparkwires and plugs, install Denso parts.
    1 point
  5. Not done one on a Lexus but it looks dead easy. This guy with the annoying voice changes one on a Toyota and it's very similar.
    1 point
  6. I wouldnt let rust bother you - simply because its very unlikely. Rust will form on any car, even if galvanised and there's some body damage etc. However, if you make sure the car is sealed underneath, it should be fine.
    1 point
  7. First of all lets get this gearbox lubrication sorted out. The gearbox does not have oil in it as transmission fluid ,it is best sourced from Lexus as it is formulated for their gearboxes but can be used in all Toyota auto gearboxes. Taking out the 2 litres of fluid from the transmission drain pan will not remove much of the contents of the transmission and associated cooling system . The correct way is two remove it via the filler tube with a pump, you will need about 12 litres of fluid to clear the whole system. I have a 12volt marine engine oil removal pump I used to market that originated in the states but is no longer produced there are similar models in the marinas. Take out two litres and put in two litres run the car round the block and repeat the process until the fluid is cherry red and smells new.
    1 point
  8. I'd be surprised if both the compressor and condenser are leaking at the same time. Extremely unlikely I would say. It would be one or the other. The condenser is the more likely candidate as they are prone to puncturing by stones etc., but a genuine Denso can be got from Rockauto at a very reasonable cost. I know as I ordered one from them a while back. The compressors tend to be bulletproof. Hope you get it sorted ok.
    1 point
  9. You sound like my wife. Still considering buying a parts car
    1 point
  10. Mine has an 85 litre tank and I get around 70/73 liters depending on the temp. Mike.
    1 point
  11. I had the same problem with the N.S.mirror the whole thing was smashed, because of the year 97,couldn't get a decent replacement, now comes the expensive bit a new one to fit a 97 model was ordered from "Lexus Japan" which took a month they made a new one for me,photochromic, new gears the whole lot, total £400. Just a bit expensive but I think it was worth it.
    1 point
  12. Intrigued as to why the Petrol Cap door is a different colour? Can't see the bonnet from your photo's to judge if same as Cap door, but personally I wouldn't have a total respray but just match the two parts to the Car. Amazed at how good the colour of my Car is after 23 years. The quality of the spray job must be far superior to any aftermarket spray unless you are going to spend a fortune. I've only washed myCar once since buying it and still looks deep and glossy. (Also love the colour)
    1 point
  13. I checked some more of their cars and they all have the same mileage discrepancy so stay away from this bunch of untrustworthy sellers.
    1 point
  14. It'll happen with any car, and when you buy what was made for the luxury market for little money and is now years old, it's like Russian roulette, but we all hope the gun doesn't go off! I would have your air con fixed, driving with the windows open seems to defeat the object of being in a quiet comfortable car. Are you sure both the compressor and the condenser are leaking? The compressors on these are pretty tough.
    1 point
  15. I didn't realise that it's been running for quite a while, I only came across it while researching to buy a car for my granddaughter , I think it's such a good site for anyone looking to buy a second hand car, how long has this much detail been available ? Allan
    1 point
  16. It's the one with the time travel module. It's clearly failed and the part is only available from Lexus. It's expensive...relatively speaking...
    1 point
  17. If you put the item number in the ebay search box 122045615711 it still comes up and is still live. MOT history shows that over 10 years its done barely 800 miles.so its sat around alot. One year it did 1 mile. Year 2011 2012 7th/8th August it passed the MOT twice in one day, MOT1 mileage 58,980. 2nd MOT mileage 31565 just one mile further on from the year before. I am beginning to get that farmyard smell. I have a feeling that this has been on before and when I asked about the MOT mileage it disappeared. Anyone going for it be very careful. Mike. They also have a Merc on Ebay with an MOT history mileage starts at 108,205 Feb 2007 then in June 2007 the mileage is 80,099 Ebay ID# 122045586927.
    1 point
  18. The front transfer box and (think from memory) front diff uses ATF fluid and the rear diff uses gear oil... I've still yet to change my rear diff fluid at 110k miles but did my ATF about 2k ago.... Really must get round to the rear diff!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  19. ................... it might just be a blown stop light bulb causing the dash light to come on Malc
    1 point
  20. And one I saw at Santa Pod running quarter miles at JapFest.....had a custom exhaust with titanium tips.
    1 point
  21. A few more of mine taken last weekend
    1 point
  22. I actually bought the whole thing, housing included from a breakers, all for £45 delivered. A good price apart from the fact the piece I really wanted being the glass was no good, even though they said it was. Fair play to the breaker though, they refunded my money including postage! The self adhesive one I bought still meant taking the old one apart to fit the new, but works a treat. Next job some nice new stainless exhaust tips from Grove Garage.
    1 point
  23. Thanks John, I'll look in to them when I get back home next week.
    1 point
  24. Spot-on advice from Allan. Only thing I would add is to make sure you check the rear faces of the discs as well as the front faces and check the condition of the rubber boots on the slide pins. At 7 years old they are likely to be quite deteriorated. Be careful when undoing the slide pins/bolts - if the rubber boots are stuck to them you can destroy the boot as you undo them. Gently unstick the boots if necessary with a bit of manipulation first. A potential problem you might come across - in my original post I blithely said 'rotate the (rear) caliper to clear the disc'. If the lower pin for the caliper (which goes into a blind hole) is seized, it can be very difficult or impossible to rotate it. There's a good post from Jack Cramer a while back on how he freed his up. And get hold of a workshop manual if you plan to work on the car yourself. They are available on eBay (they come on a CD). That will show you how everything fits together, torque settings for nuts and bolts, etc.
    1 point
  25. Hi Lloyd , welcome to the Loc, don't rush in to buying new discs , pads and calipers, the calipers on my car were seized to the caliper housing very seized !!! After using heat and penetrating oil on the slide pins I managed to free the near side caliper slide pin but the driver side caliper was so seized solid , so I decided to replace both the rear calipers, discs and pads, this job was done curbside out side my house , so what I'm saying is this job is not that difficult . (Just make sure you have the car properly supported and chocked at the front wheels) But have look first before you do anything ! Is it brake dust or rust ? The face of the disc should be shiny with no pitting on the face , if any of the discs has pitting on the face then both discs will have to be replaced + new pads . You will have to check the caliper slide pins are free and lubricated . What is the mileage of your car ? Were there any advisory's on the last mot ? There is a good service that the dvla are doing now where you can see all the past mot history of your car,if I had had the information from this before I had purchased my car i I would have been warned by the advisory's on two previous mots that the rear brakes should be done , how you can get advisory's two years running for the same thing is beyond me ! Just one thing more , the brakes on the is2 are not the greatest , so take the wheels off and check the discs, pads and calipers properly before buying any parts. There is a very good post on this forum of how to do this job . If you need any More help just ask, plenty of people on here have had problems with rear brakes ! ! Let us know how you get on. Allan
    1 point
  26. 1 point
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