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Afternoon LOC members. Just wanted to drop a quick note on here to introduce myself, I joined the club a week or so ago in anticipation of my upcoming purchase which I collect tomorrow, as you might imagine I'm in quite a good mood looking forward to this. I've read a lot and learned a lot in the past week mainly from you good people of this forum and am confident I've put myself in the right car. I am sure most of you will be aware of the limited number of ISF's avaiable at any one time, I made my selection after viewing and test driving three, two from lexus main dealers, a pre-facelift 08 and a 13 plate, but my favourite was in between the two settling on a 11 plate in Black from a ford dealer (of all places). Only have dealer pics until tomorrow, but I'll post a few more at some point. The Lexus is a bit of a departure for me, my more recent car history is quite varied but all the changes have been for one reason or another. This change was necassitated to the imminent arrival of my second child and a move to 5 doors was all the justification I needed to talk myself into this... This and the fact that hopefully I wont be tempted to modify it which is a bit of a habit of mine. So I'm coming out of a Audi S3 3-door but it was no ordinary S3. Beyond the engine block casting there wasnt much standard about it, she was running 406Bhp on low boost (1.5bar), full modified Volkwagen racing Cup suspension and braking via Brembo/AP Racing, apart from basic stance she looked like a standard S3. Lovely. I think to an extent it is this wolf in sheeps clothing that pulled me to the ISF over the C63 AMG or M3, I've always prefered the understated. Back from this I had a Mazda RX8 R3 special edition, a very brief fling with a mazda 6 sport (still dont know why i did that) and prior to that a Lotus Elise R. With exception of the Mazda 6 I have loved all these car as they suited my perfectly at that given time. All being well I plan to keep the ISF for a few years until the litte uns are out of their kiddie seats. So here starts my ISF Journey... happy to be part of this quite exclusive little club. Dave

You can get the rubber parts for the brake calipers from various sources - eg www.brakeparts.co.uk . A front set, which consists of the rubber seals, the little ring for the top pin, a bleed screw cap and caliper seal and boot with a circlip for the caliper boot for £10.66 + postage (per side). They sell all other parts for the brakes (including exchange calipers) - a useful place to know - I've used them many times - always excellent products and service (usual disclaimer!)

I've owned this mk2 GS430 for a few months now and it truly is a fabulous car - especially for someone who likes to maintain their own car. But there are a few areas that i really wanted to change around the interior dash areas. It's not finished yet... Sorry about these images - they've decided to rotate 90 degrees, with no apparent option to straighten them again. For various reasons i was forced to updated the non-working radio and regrettably the OE satnav just wasn't going to be compatible with an aftermarket headunit. You don't appear to be able to get a double din fascia for a GS that keep the double din at the top - they're designed to replace the non-satnav radios. Looking down low to see the sat nav seems a poor idea to me, so i decided the Nav had to go in the upper section. I bought a good secondhand Kenwood stereo with bluetooth and DAB, and made up a bespoke fascia for it from 3 different pieces of stereo fascia plus the kenwood bezel, really pleased with the close fit but the final finish is yet to be sorted. I had to replace the touchscreen AC controls with a standard HVAC - but rather scarily then had to cut it down to within 2mm of the left and right hand buttons to make it fit the new location. I've seen one image of this done before so i knew it must work - but it was a nervous time fitting it. For the satnav i really wanted to use an old Nexus 7 2012 tablet that i have. The tablet is primarily a satnav and MP3 player, but i didn't really want to lock the tablet behind a fascia (which i'd also have to make) obviously i wanted to be held securely in place for driving but also be able to pick it up easily to hide it or take it with me - i use it with OS maps for hiking and as a kindle on holiday. Having just replaced the wood steering wheel with a perforated leather one (probably the reverse of most peoples taste!) i decided to use black perforated leather. The tablet is held by a Scosche Magnetic Flush Mount which really is secure, mounted on ply covered in leather. The ply is locked in top and bottom and can't be removed without removing the vents above. I have a steering wheel interface waiting to be fitted to allow me to use those controls again and just need to decide on the DAB aerial (it will be an external one) and sort out the subwoofer. Most things are bought second-hand so all of these changes should be close to cost neutral once i've sold all the SatNav/Amp/CD changer and wood steering wheel etc. Not sure on the final finish for both the HVAC and the stereo fascia - may just be satin black (stereo fascia has had a couple of quick coats), might look at using a 3m wood film if i can closely match the rosewood and do the black plastic around the gear stick/cupholders as i like that look on the other LS/GS models. I also re-covered the gear knob in the same perforated leather (not very easy as it doesn't really dismantle easily). Finally i'm trying to find the best solution to acres of dark beige plastic - it's the only poor part of the car's design in my opinion, a poor choice even allowing for its age. But I love the car's paint and trim colours otherwise. So, initially i've tried covering the insert plastic door trim in more perforated black leather to break up the beige - i like it! Again it's not an easy modification because of the tight curves and the fact that Lexus decided to make the window switch bezel part of the moulding, so careful use of a dremel was needed to allow the leather to tuck in. I think i made a pretty good job, the camera makes the door leather look more different in shade than the steering wheel leather than it does in reality but i may yet give them all a dye with liquid leather scuff dye to guarantee a match. I've yet to trim the other doors but the drivers door was the hardest one to do. I'm half considering changing the dash colour, don't really want black everywhere either - both porsche and saab have used a burgundy/cordovan type shade on dashboards that i'm quite tempted to try if i can get a spare door card! This isn't a short-term project. I've already added an LPG conversion (well worth it in my opinion), next is a cat back stainless exhaust as the current one is hanging on by a prayer and i have a lexus detachable towbar waiting to fit once the exhaust can be touched. Also been collecting suspension parts - it's only on 75k miles but i'm keen to keep it tight without losing comfort. Anyway - hope that's of interest to some of you!

This is a topic we come back to now and again. Just a heads up really - there's an interesting article in 'Car Mechanics' this month (March 2016) about dealing with the subject (Decoking modern engines). Apparently Dr Helmut Leonhardt of Shell Lubricants has done a lot of work on the inlet valve problem on Direct Injection engines (including his PhD) and puts it down to Viscosity Improvers in the oil - the carbon comes from oil which gets into the inlet tract via the crankcase breather system and EGR valves (no EGR valve on IS250s though). The article covers cleaning techniques including walnut shell blasting (there's a photo sequence of it being done on a Mini) and TerraClean. So there you go if you're interested.

So I've bought my first RX Initial impression... im thrilled to bits! My search lasted three months and I'm glad I took my time and waited for the right car, there's a few RX 300's around and most are tidy but I wanted a lower mileage car and I managed to get an 05 SE in Silver with 59k I have few reservations on higher mileage cars but I wanted something that I could keep for a good few years The car had 1 previous owner and a full Lexus service history, everything seems to work very well on the car and after having tried every switch... not bad for a ten year old car! Ive just had the alloys refurbished and a new set of Michelins fitted And there were a few scratchers on the body work which I had repaired and now the car looks fresh from the factory! The last thing I will do is get a full professional valet as I dont think the previous owner ever had it done... which is surprising since the car is a lovely car and well worth looking after Carpets could do with a shampoo as they are a little bit grubby, im quite fussy with my cars I like to keep a car clean and tidy, the Grey leather looks in terrific undamaged condition and very clean so one less thang! Next jobs... I need four new wheel center caps, a new drivers side floor mat as there is heel wear showing and then I think were getting there, all ship shape As soon as I've had the valet done I'll post some pickies of my new pride and joy! Oh' one last thing, anyone know if it is possible to retro fit rear PDC?? This car doesn't have PDC and I'm missing this feature

Don't forget the lube.

Front: 0º11' = approx 1mm toe in. So you are well within range (spec is 1mm +- 2mm = approx 0º11' toe out to 0º22' toe in) Rear spec is 3mm +- 2mm = approx 0º11' to 0º55' so within spec (at the lower end of acceptable toe in). If my calculations are correct +- !

He who dares Rodney. ...he who dares adventure before dementia

It is something similar to Prius engine : http://www.john2211.nl/Hybride_modi.htm

We all know the fuel economy figures are not to be relied on, we buy our Lexus's for comfort, longevity desirability, customer service and more. If fuel economy is a major concern it's probably best to go for a smart car. Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

As Newbie says twice a year isnt much of a chore. An hour taking your time tops, did mine when i bought it. Did them 2 weeks ago when doing parking brake. Will do them again around june time, skodas are the same. A bain but saves a lot of cash in the long run, and copper grease a must on back of wheels.

I had this same problem last year it came on after my son had borrowed the car to go and see his brother i too was told by Lexus it could be something to do with the VVT could be expensive I called in at fuel station and when i took of the fuel cap it felt like it was cross threaded it wasnt damaged but felt strange he did tell me " Ive put £10 of fuel in Dad" I bought a new cap as i too had heard this on the US sites about faulty seal on cap The light as never come on since

Use this: Willtheyfit.com Measure the gap from the wheel to the arch Input the spec of your wheels and tyres you got now and you compare to see how much further your new wheels will poke out. I've got Et35 wheels and had to roll my front arches a bit to cover the tread, I'll probably need to pull them a bit more when I lower the car

Has the timing belt and water pump been done? Would be factoring these in if I were you and planning to keep the car. 100k or 10 years is the change interval, rubber does perish with age regardless of the low mileage...

Can find replacement infra-red headsets on eBay, either 3rd Party or second hand Lex ones!

The DVDs player is under the drivers seat, there's a foot guard you pull down to insert the disc .

I thought that was when DNA got replicated in a cell undergoing mitosis?! :O

Sorry but when I saw the topic title I couldn't resist. The main thing that nobody else has mentioned is remember to breathe when doing the job.

I don't think you can buy the rubber seals from Lexus. As far as I know, they sell the entire calliper only since there are no part numbers for the individual parts. This pic shows the components: Also, as stated at the bottom, you need the white, glycol grease when re-inserting the pins.

I have never replaced the seals on the calipers - have been fortunate to (with the 2 lexus cars I have had) get the pins oiled as soon as I got them although I have replaced two calipers on this one - too far gone when I bought the car but no problems since. I have heard of people buying seals from "Bigred" brakes but never done it myself. I usually clean and re-grease the pins approx. every 6 months - I do them when changing the engine oil as I do this on a 6 monthly basis as I don't do a lot of miles and what I do is in general short runs. I don't find cleaning the pins takes that long - would quite easily finish all 4 corners in an hour. Also - there is an anti rattle rubber washer on one pin on the front callipers (think its the top one?) I have in the past bought these from lexus but they, for what they are, very expensive. Since I have used the rubber grease on the pins the rubber parts have remained tight around the metal components. I put up a "how To" on this last year or the year before - think you can find it on the first page of the forum. An indie garage can easily do this for you no problem but would charge around £80 - I would rather know that the pins are done properly as a replacement caliper is in excess of £350 so for the sake of around 10 minutes work on each caliper cleaning and re-greasing then I think its worth it. Also while I am in the wheel arch I also spray WD40 onto all the moving parts (suspension/rubbers etc) have always done it, don't know if it has any effect on the but have had no issue so will keep doing it. I want to give the arches a good clean this year after the winter (a bit OCD I know !!) but they are caked in salt etc...

Greasing the pins is an annual job - no way round it I am afraid as they do need doing - leave them and they will corrode and seize over time. I do mine every 6 months and use the Toyota rubber grease on them as this lubricates the pins and does not attack the rubber dust seals on the callipers. Once you do them a few times it doesn't take as long to do all 4 corners

A very helpful member sent me a complete TTE kit list .pdf With this info i was able to source all the parts to Frankenstein myself a supercharger kit for roughly £500 including the black box needed. The list basically consists of, M62 or M45 super charger from a Merc. Pully and belts, pipes, intercooler, black box. The hardest part to get is the cradle but through some trial and error you can fabricate one easy enough with some steel tubing or if you have a member living close by with a TTE charger they might let you borrow the cradle to get it copied. To be honest £1500 for a TTE charger kit is easy to assemble since it comes with everything needed but if you want to call it your own and save £1000 then start pricing up the parts and build it yourself. If you want the DIY list you can download the files from Clicky to my G Drive I have the entire TTE list and set up guide but this is the way i decided to follow. I have the parts ready to go just need to get the car's brakes under control before i start bolting bits to the engine.

Finally went with Bilstein B14 coilovers. I had to buy 2 rear top mounts separately as only the front shocks come with the mounts. Cost in total was €1750.00 I fitted the coilovers my self so no labour cost. Time about 10-12 hrs. The car handled very good, ride is not as good as the air suspension which is what I expected . Everything was fine for a couple of months but I noticed handling on the front was going off. I had the front shocks tested , n/s is way out of balance with the o/s. Contacted supplier who contacted Germany . They want the shocks back to test, they refused to send replacement parts even through I offered to pay for them and then receive a refund . They said there were none in stock . If I had to do it again I would buy shocks with adjustable dampers. I hope to remove shocks next week and send them back so l will update then.

Hi Bobby, I purchased mine last September from puravent, a well known filter company, it was the upgraded filter costing £18.66 inc. postage. Paste link below into your browser http://www.puravent.co.uk/filters/display_filter.php?id=386∂=M2194 Kind regards Barrie