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When I got my 1999 LS400 the only key was broken to the point the blade was about to part company from the casing so I had a new one supplied,cut and the guts swapped over. Putting it in the ignition I noticed the security light remained flashing and of course although the engine turned over it wouldn't start. Thankfully this had happened before and some kind member of the LOC had posted up the solution, insert the key turn to ACC and leave for 6 minutes. I did this but the light still continued to flash, I removed the key despairing of ever having the car run again, a little later I reinserted the key and lo and behold the light went out and the car started. So the missed line was to remove and reinsert the key after 6 minutes.

Sounds like a trip to an auto electrician. Or a lexus main dealer who can plug his diagnosis gizmo into the socket under the dash and chk the fault codes

I became a grandad for the first time three weeks ago (at 46!). It is great. All the good bits and no sleepless nights!

Just to let you know, sorted out the wierd 3 line streaking of my drivers side wiper which was driving me nuts. This may be useful for somebody. So, the first step was change the wiper refills - this didnt work, 3 line streak on the drivers side was still there. Then I got bored and did everthing so it could be one of these factors but obviously Im unsure about what it is: 1) Washed the glass thoroughly with a NON-wax shampoo. Im using car chem 1900:1 (leather oak scent is LUSH btw). Rinsed off but left the glass wet. 2) Used my clay cloth on the glass until it was smooth. There was slight roughness upon doing the plastic bag test. 3) Used Astonish Car glass cleaner with anti fog 4) Used Autosmart Glass Glow polish with an applicator sponge on the windscreen and removed with a microfiber 5) Applied rain x to the windscreen Also a note about RAIN X. I get a lot of comments from people about glare, smearing and what not. I can't stress enough that this is due to poor application of the product and not the product itself. Here is the process for applying rain x properly: 1) Make sure the glass is clean - this means use a GLASS POLISH and not just a glass CLEANER. Glass cleaners contain nothing but ammonia or isopropyl alcohol. These will remove grease and minor dirt. However, tree sap, diesel crap and other hard wearing gunk will remain bonded to the glass. Something like Autosmart Glass glow or Autoglym Glass polish is what you want to remove the film your glass has on it. 2) Apply rain X to a KITCHEN ROLL and buff over half the screen. You have to be extremely quick and thorough with this. Keep buffing for 1-2mins on each half (doesnt sound like much but its actually a long time when you're buffing continously). Finish in straight lines and then do the other half in exactly the same way. Wait for it to haze (2-5 mins) and then remove completely. The most common problem is applying too much causing intense glare at night. 3) Apply a second coat. This is to ensure there is even application and will prevent wiper skipping/juddering. Remove the haze with a microfibre. 4) Now here is where the trick lies - Use a glass cleaner (RAIN X's own weatherbeater is great for this) and buff it in until the glass is clear with no streaks. Then sprinkle some water on the glass and buff the water into the glass using a microfiber. Now it shouldn't smear and you won't get the crazy glare that people get when they apply it in a weird way. Also ensure you clean the wiper blade with some glass cleaner as this can also cause smearing.

Depends on how you want to go about it. If you want a permanent solution use a cutting polish - Sonax perfect finish is my favourite for all Japanese cars on a polishing pad. You can buy a polisher if you wish - best to stick with a DA - Argos do one pretty cheap with a 2 year warranty. Avoid rotaries as you can burn through paint if you havent used it before. If you want to fill the scratches, Autoglym SRP will work well. A few coats of Autoglym SRP and a wax/sealant on top should be great for a few months (totally dependent on the wax/sealant you choose) And, if you can get hold of some, get Autosmart products - I use them on my car and they're probably the best products out there without ridiculous price tags albeit they do come in 5l containers. They basically make products but distribute to the trade and are the largest valeting supplier in the UK. Autosmart Platinum is their version of SRP and arguably works better and of course its cheaper to buy.

Go to the post above and scroll down to post no 8 ... its from Ashpoint in Australia ... he can sort you out with the kit you will need.

Sure enough - this is the symptom header: P0983 Shift Solenoid "D" Control Circuit High (Shift Solenoid Valve S4) Here's a the repair sequence - hope it helps! http://tinyurl.com/j8ew65y (It might be hard to read in your browser - suggest you copy the image into a jpg viewer such as Irfanview - then you'll be able to enlarge sections) It could easily be a fault in the wiring harness connected to the solenoid. It's not going to be easy to check all of that, unless you are lucky and it's somewhere obvious. You might do best to consult an auto electrician and get him to check the wiring - that will be cheaper than going to a Lexus dealer, where they'll just bang in a new solenoid at vast expense and if it's the wiring the fault will still be there.

Called them yesterday afternoon at 2pm (before I had seen this) & allegedly it was sold! I was on my way back from Lexus Hedge End (Southampton), where I viewed 2. After some negotiating on a minor niggle and price, I'm buying a 31,000 mile 60 plate SE-L (with the radar cruise, which I tried on the M27 and really liked) from them with 5 service stamps, pick it up next Saturday. The only thing I don't like is the fact the light beige interior comes with light beige floor mats which seem to pick up marks very easily. Has anybody fitted darker ones? I'm tempted. The other one I looked at was the "sport" model previously discussed - they have different wheels as well as the bumper lips. It looked nice, but the difference in appearance is nothing to write home about.

Can't be the fuse or they wouldn't come back on. Could be switch but if so fiddling with it when the lights go off before restarting might provide some info about this. Sounds as if its some electronic problem in the central control system.

I have never needed to top the oil up on either of my cars, although as each car only does about 3000 miles a year that is perhaps not surprising. The coolant has only needed a minor top up to keep the level between the min and max - perhaps a cupful a year.

Hi, For those in the market for new rubber... I have just bough four new Michelin latitude sport 3's I have covered around 200 miles and I can report that the tyres are amazing! Excellent grip wet or dry Very quiet running and excellent handling The car drives straight and true and feedback through the steering is very good, overall im very impressed with the Michelins they are always my prefered brand and they seem to work very well on the RX300 2005 SE.

must be way over torqued, take it to a decent mechanic.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Laser-Tools-Oil-Filter-Wrench-65mm-x-14-Flutes-5160-/111604192815?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368 you are going to do more damage than good if you dont do as i pointed out a few times already, get it to a place with a ramp and make sure they have the correct tool above to take it off

Copper grease is normally used (sparingly, not smothered) over the edges/ears of the pads that locate them into the carrier/mounting bracket. If you are using shims, a thin layer is put on the back of the pad, then shims fitted on top. Sometimes you can put a super thin coat of copper grease on the parts of the pad that the calliper piston and 'fingers' of the mounting bracket slide over to make re-installation easier (however you wouldn't see this as the calliper and bracket cover these traces. You do not want to see exposed copper grease on the backs of the pads once everything is reassembled as this is a brake dust, dirt and moisture magnet that will makes things horrible as time goes on! All too often you see people that will slaver pads with copper grease as if applying thick emulsion with a 2" paint brush!

Aha I like it! There's always bolts and washers left after I'm finished on a car! I'll start my revision for the test soon :) , thanks guys , looking forward to getting a thread up on the build once the car is mine! High mileage rusty piece of Lexus!

Congratulations on the birth of twins, how fantastic. Mike.

Nothing at all to do with me, but thought it may interest some folks on here. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/182021857670?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT