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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/14/2016 in all areas

  1. Never used any fluids at all in over three years, though I do an oil change every year, so only about 4 thousand miles between changes. Also did a coolant drain and refill with toyota red last year, but level was fine, and still is. Long trips set cruise to around 80 on speedo, and generally like to press on, but always warm her up before lifting the skirts, so to speak.
    2 points
  2. I've noticed a leak on the near side front corner of my car, it looks and tastes like screen wash! I have been filling the reservoir much more frequently over the last 3 months so by process of elimination I've found the problem. Anyone had this problem before? Apart from a seized front calliper three years ago and this leak the car has been faultless. It sailed through its mot last week with 90k under its belt. I hope it's an easy fix.
    1 point
  3. I've owned this mk2 GS430 for a few months now and it truly is a fabulous car - especially for someone who likes to maintain their own car. But there are a few areas that i really wanted to change around the interior dash areas. It's not finished yet... Sorry about these images - they've decided to rotate 90 degrees, with no apparent option to straighten them again. For various reasons i was forced to updated the non-working radio and regrettably the OE satnav just wasn't going to be compatible with an aftermarket headunit. You don't appear to be able to get a double din fascia for a GS that keep the double din at the top - they're designed to replace the non-satnav radios. Looking down low to see the sat nav seems a poor idea to me, so i decided the Nav had to go in the upper section. I bought a good secondhand Kenwood stereo with bluetooth and DAB, and made up a bespoke fascia for it from 3 different pieces of stereo fascia plus the kenwood bezel, really pleased with the close fit but the final finish is yet to be sorted. I had to replace the touchscreen AC controls with a standard HVAC - but rather scarily then had to cut it down to within 2mm of the left and right hand buttons to make it fit the new location. I've seen one image of this done before so i knew it must work - but it was a nervous time fitting it. For the satnav i really wanted to use an old Nexus 7 2012 tablet that i have. The tablet is primarily a satnav and MP3 player, but i didn't really want to lock the tablet behind a fascia (which i'd also have to make) obviously i wanted to be held securely in place for driving but also be able to pick it up easily to hide it or take it with me - i use it with OS maps for hiking and as a kindle on holiday. Having just replaced the wood steering wheel with a perforated leather one (probably the reverse of most peoples taste!) i decided to use black perforated leather. The tablet is held by a Scosche Magnetic Flush Mount which really is secure, mounted on ply covered in leather. The ply is locked in top and bottom and can't be removed without removing the vents above. I have a steering wheel interface waiting to be fitted to allow me to use those controls again and just need to decide on the DAB aerial (it will be an external one) and sort out the subwoofer. Most things are bought second-hand so all of these changes should be close to cost neutral once i've sold all the SatNav/Amp/CD changer and wood steering wheel etc. Not sure on the final finish for both the HVAC and the stereo fascia - may just be satin black (stereo fascia has had a couple of quick coats), might look at using a 3m wood film if i can closely match the rosewood and do the black plastic around the gear stick/cupholders as i like that look on the other LS/GS models. I also re-covered the gear knob in the same perforated leather (not very easy as it doesn't really dismantle easily). Finally i'm trying to find the best solution to acres of dark beige plastic - it's the only poor part of the car's design in my opinion, a poor choice even allowing for its age. But I love the car's paint and trim colours otherwise. So, initially i've tried covering the insert plastic door trim in more perforated black leather to break up the beige - i like it! Again it's not an easy modification because of the tight curves and the fact that Lexus decided to make the window switch bezel part of the moulding, so careful use of a dremel was needed to allow the leather to tuck in. I think i made a pretty good job, the camera makes the door leather look more different in shade than the steering wheel leather than it does in reality but i may yet give them all a dye with liquid leather scuff dye to guarantee a match. I've yet to trim the other doors but the drivers door was the hardest one to do. I'm half considering changing the dash colour, don't really want black everywhere either - both porsche and saab have used a burgundy/cordovan type shade on dashboards that i'm quite tempted to try if i can get a spare door card! This isn't a short-term project. I've already added an LPG conversion (well worth it in my opinion), next is a cat back stainless exhaust as the current one is hanging on by a prayer and i have a lexus detachable towbar waiting to fit once the exhaust can be touched. Also been collecting suspension parts - it's only on 75k miles but i'm keen to keep it tight without losing comfort. Anyway - hope that's of interest to some of you!
    1 point
  4. Just to let you know, sorted out the wierd 3 line streaking of my drivers side wiper which was driving me nuts. This may be useful for somebody. So, the first step was change the wiper refills - this didnt work, 3 line streak on the drivers side was still there. Then I got bored and did everthing so it could be one of these factors but obviously Im unsure about what it is: 1) Washed the glass thoroughly with a NON-wax shampoo. Im using car chem 1900:1 (leather oak scent is LUSH btw). Rinsed off but left the glass wet. 2) Used my clay cloth on the glass until it was smooth. There was slight roughness upon doing the plastic bag test. 3) Used Astonish Car glass cleaner with anti fog 4) Used Autosmart Glass Glow polish with an applicator sponge on the windscreen and removed with a microfiber 5) Applied rain x to the windscreen Also a note about RAIN X. I get a lot of comments from people about glare, smearing and what not. I can't stress enough that this is due to poor application of the product and not the product itself. Here is the process for applying rain x properly: 1) Make sure the glass is clean - this means use a GLASS POLISH and not just a glass CLEANER. Glass cleaners contain nothing but ammonia or isopropyl alcohol. These will remove grease and minor dirt. However, tree sap, diesel crap and other hard wearing gunk will remain bonded to the glass. Something like Autosmart Glass glow or Autoglym Glass polish is what you want to remove the film your glass has on it. 2) Apply rain X to a KITCHEN ROLL and buff over half the screen. You have to be extremely quick and thorough with this. Keep buffing for 1-2mins on each half (doesnt sound like much but its actually a long time when you're buffing continously). Finish in straight lines and then do the other half in exactly the same way. Wait for it to haze (2-5 mins) and then remove completely. The most common problem is applying too much causing intense glare at night. 3) Apply a second coat. This is to ensure there is even application and will prevent wiper skipping/juddering. Remove the haze with a microfibre. 4) Now here is where the trick lies - Use a glass cleaner (RAIN X's own weatherbeater is great for this) and buff it in until the glass is clear with no streaks. Then sprinkle some water on the glass and buff the water into the glass using a microfiber. Now it shouldn't smear and you won't get the crazy glare that people get when they apply it in a weird way. Also ensure you clean the wiper blade with some glass cleaner as this can also cause smearing.
    1 point
  5. I have never needed to top the oil up on either of my cars, although as each car only does about 3000 miles a year that is perhaps not surprising. The coolant has only needed a minor top up to keep the level between the min and max - perhaps a cupful a year.
    1 point
  6. Well mine has nearly 200,000 miles on her so expected
    1 point
  7. Have never topped up coolant in 3 years,approx 12000 miles,oil topped up between yearly changes approx 1 ltr no leaks,i do stretch its legs from time to time
    1 point
  8. Present mileage on mine is around 82,000 annual mileage 3000, oil change is now yearly and top up maybe 100 ml between changes. Always use fully synthetic 5W30. My coolant level remains constant although as you mention it does take time to resettle after a full change.
    1 point
  9. The code they gave me is on the invoice, i'll check later, but it did state on the invoice that it was to do with the soleniod it the gearbox. I have no interest in changing any ECU's, done that on a previous car and its a pain, all i want to do is find them to make sure there isn't a loose connnection again and get charged £144 for the pleasure when taking it to Lexus for them to do that again. The £500+ is what they want to change the soleniod plus labour, and if it is just a loose connection i dont wanna get mugged off. I'll give it a go on manual and maybe check the oil, cheers.
    1 point
  10. Copper grease is normally used (sparingly, not smothered) over the edges/ears of the pads that locate them into the carrier/mounting bracket. If you are using shims, a thin layer is put on the back of the pad, then shims fitted on top. Sometimes you can put a super thin coat of copper grease on the parts of the pad that the calliper piston and 'fingers' of the mounting bracket slide over to make re-installation easier (however you wouldn't see this as the calliper and bracket cover these traces. You do not want to see exposed copper grease on the backs of the pads once everything is reassembled as this is a brake dust, dirt and moisture magnet that will makes things horrible as time goes on! All too often you see people that will slaver pads with copper grease as if applying thick emulsion with a 2" paint brush!
    1 point
  11. I'd say that's fair and if it rids the squeak, it's gotta be worth it!
    1 point
  12. I think I'll be trying a carbon "active" filter next, if it stops me being gassed by diesels (TDIs) and mopeds!!
    1 point
  13. Hello and welcome to the LOC. Nice looking IS you have there, how did you get hold of the parts for all the mods, I'd love some exhaust tips like those on my LS.
    1 point
  14. Thanks Mike. Born 7 weeks early and quite small. In the special unit but doing well and breathing unaided. All looks very positive but it came as a surprise for all!
    1 point
  15. Just be very carefull, If I was selling it I would be right upfront about it demonstrating that I wasn't trying to hide anything. Mike.
    1 point
  16. Another Ebay dealer trying to look like a private seller. I wouldn't give a second thought because of that. It failed its MOT on the 30th Oct for the following reasons, Reason(s) for failure nearside Windscreen wiper does not clear the windscreen effectively (8.2.2) offside Windscreen wiper does not clear the windscreen effectively (8.2.2) offside rear coil spring broken (2.4.C.1a) Took it to another MOT station the next day and got a pass on it.
    1 point
  17. The standard Lexus one on my GS was active (I think the RX too) and I've also used Puravent http://www.pollenfilter.co.uk//display_filter.php?id=386&part=M2194 I think it makes a difference, one of those things that is difficult to tell. It's also difficult to know when the it stops working, does it last the full 20k miles / two years between major services?
    1 point
  18. Same here, I started with Anglias, Escorts, Cortinas and 3 litre Granadas and Capris, and in all honesty, I loved them all. I also had various BLs and Rootes group, but my whole outlook changed when I discovered Datsuns in the late 70s, with their bulletproof mechanics and plush interiors. Since then, it's been Japanese all the way for me.
    1 point
  19. We're all car people aren't we? Especially a nice rapid Lexus, what's not to like?
    1 point
  20. I will say that the one thing you will find is that the Lexus dealership cars attend to be the cream of the crop. none the less, it's frustrating when a car is not as described. My GS was on the Lexus forecourt for £11,500 a year ago with one owner from new and 49k on the clock. It was immaculate. In fact I'd go as far to say it looked about two years old. Mine even had the original protective tapes on the sills and radio so really was one of those gems. like you, I have seen plenty of dogs in the past described as perfect. keep looking though and the right one will appear. Carl
    1 point
  21. But you'd have to take your steering wheel off if you planned to swap it anyway....?
    1 point
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