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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/13/2015 in all areas
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The engine ECU is located on the other side of the panel directly below the glovebox. The 1st step as always when working on the car is to remove the negative battery terminal to remove the risk of anything being shorted out during the process. Step 1. Open the glove box lid and prise out the 2 plastic covers over the support arms by pushing in an outward direction. Once these are removed the support arms simply pull off the bracket on the glove box. The glove box compartment is hld in position by 5 plastic stud fixings, 3 along the bottom and 2 along the top. Using a suitable tool prise these out and then using a plastic blade depress the top edge of the compartment then pull it forward slightly. Remove the glove box light wiring by pushing the lug on the connector and then carefully pull out the right side of the glove box further and ensure the stay arms are pushed back through the slots. The right side stay arm is attached to the glovebox with a nylon connecting cord and damper mechanism so take care not to break this on removal. Once the inner compartment is removed you can now access and remove the 2 10mm bolts holding the panel at the top either side of the glove box door. From here remove the lower passenger side kick panel containing the foot well light, to remove the light socket twist the bulb holder. This will then allow access and removal to a further 3 10mm bolts at the bottom of the panel, one at each end and one in the middle. Carefully lower the panel down to the floor of the car to reveal the ECU as shown in the picture below, the loom will allow this without straining. Reverse the above proceedure to refit everything.1 point
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Bought some aluminium foot pedals on E Bay for my Lexus. Came from Hong Kong in 2 weeks and at £15.99 with free postage I thought just can't not fit them. Simply to fit they transform the foot well area I think. Drilling the metal foot brake pedal took the most time about 30 mins. Click on photo to see all 3 pieces, for some reason the accelerator pedal appears chopped off the image but if you click on it, it expands not sure why it's done that. Steve
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The zero point calibration with techstream looks fairly easy http://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-3rd-gen-2001-2006/789241-how-to-do-a-zero-point-calibration-via-techstream.html will give that a go1 point
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Is it more of a knock than a rattle, reason I ask this is the IS is known to suffer from a knocking noise from the front of the car. In my case when I owned my IS300 Sportcross, I had the car checked over by a trusted friend who runs his own independent garage and Lexus, both could hear the knock but neither could locate the cause? After having all the ball joints, links etc checked with no issues I first had all the brake caliper components renewed without success, I then purchased aftermarket front shocks and Lexus top suspension mounts, once fitted the problem was 85% better and acceptable to live with. If you search the net and on here there are quite a few threads on the subject and my conclusion is there is no single, common item causing this "knocking" sound. The original shocks were known to have a faulty internal valve problem which caused a knock, I think Lexus at the time, replaced these under warranty. Sadly it seems trial and error for each car is the best way forward. Obviously the above relates more to a knock than a rattle, but thought it worth posting just in case...... I wish you all the best in sorting the problem out.1 point
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yeh, I understand what you mean Gang. Is that Tim Peake's Soyuz preparing for take off in the background?1 point
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oh stop moaning, you live in one of the most amazing parts of the world I've ever been to. I suspect if you drive for a few hours in the right direction this is what you get treated too... If I drive for 1 hour, this is what I get to see, I don't think any amount of christmas cheer can make anyone smile when they are greeted with such a unique sight :)1 point
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ok so this morning with a clear head and some sunlight n rain I went out to survey the damage I had caused in my haste.(silly silly boy that I am) where I foolishly unbolted the tensioner pulley last night and it pinged off with violence it sheared off a piece of metal from the pulley mounting, so i may have to replace that whole thing now . something i didnt expect is that there was no washer behind any of the pulleys which I found strange, Is this right? I have bolted it all back together now though and yes in the end the penny dropped on how the tensioner works, not sure i shall ever live this one down. The tensioner pulley I was of course worried about not sitting right however there isnt a wobble in sight. thanks for your patience1 point
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Hi PCM, good find! A Zero-point calibration might just do the trick for Halliwell or at least help move diagnosis forwards. When my air suspension was bad, I had a similar issue when braking on roundabouts due to not having a good contact with one of the wheels to the ground, it would trigger the abs/traction control and the steering and braking feel was just wrong. Take a look at: http://forum.ih8mud.com/proxy.php?image=http%3A%2F%2Fi212.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fcc52%2FTucanviajero%2Fzeroptcalibrationvscsmall.jpg&hash=04441704163caf19ac653397b83c8284 This can be done with Techstream too, but I haven't found instructions for that, yet. The most important thing is to ensure you are on Flat, Level ground (like a petrol station forecourt, for example).1 point
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I have hard wired a dash cam. Easy. I took out the upper centre console to do the job. I wired mine to the window sensor, live when ignition on, just piggy backed the wires, soldered and heat shrinked. The cigarette lighter was taken apart and the PCB was rewired, it's a bridge rectifier rather than a transformer on the board. (Pedant) This was wired to the window sensor and the shortened usb lead making sure you get the polarity right, or you'll be sending smoke signals. The PCB was tucked, insulated, inside the console. Roberts your fathers brother, a couple hours work.1 point
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Hi, I'm afraid you will have to take the speaker out of the car to repair it. There is no other way1 point
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SE vs SE-L: If you have air suspension button for raising and lowering car & headlamp washers next to the heated seats switches, you have the rx300 SE-L... As you have the diagnostics software and if your P0420 comes back and your mpg has trouble getting to 26/27 then you might want to check the following clip out: http://youtu.be/9VZ5K8n5jj0 If you can get under your car, check out the exhaust mounts to rubber straps and also the various exhaust heatshields from the headers back to make sure nothing is too badly corroded and intact!1 point
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If Allan is going down the route of using a wooden block, here is some info on approximate measurements and some pictures of the one I use. The block wood is 3 and five-eighths inches x 2 and three quarter inches. The cut out in the top section is about 1 inch deep and 1 inch wide. The cut out is not centrally placed - there is a longer section on the top on the right hand side (1 and three-eighths of an inch) and a shorter section on the top on the left hand side (three-quarters of an inch). The left hand side is also cut away at an angle at the end. The longer section goes behind the sill and the shorter section in front of it. The purpose of the cut away is to stop the edge of the wood from catching on the sill. Hope this helps. The photos are a bit on the large side but if you click on them they open up so that you can see the whole picture.
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Allan Screw the bolt back in to the tensioner and when you get it in all the way using a breaker bar or extension ease the tensioner back pushing anti clockwise this will relieve the tension on the belt and you can slide the belt out .Take the bolt back out and fit the new pulley then follow the same course to releve the pressure and slide the belt back on let the bar go and the job is done.If you can use the centre of the old pulley in the first operation it will act as a spacer for the bolt.Remember that this is a left hand thread so when you tighten it up it will bring the tensioner right back to the slacken off position do not worry about that when you let it go it will go back up.Make sure the belt is on correctly and the ribs are all in the correct grooves before starting the engine.1 point
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Hello and welcome to the LOC. We have quite a few members in Scotland but well spread out, it's bigger than people think with a 300 mile drive from Glasgow to Wick as I found out a couple of years ago :)1 point
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Great job on the code reader, I did the same with the mini-VCI and has been useful reading suspension codes on the SE-L.. Your P0420 code is a catalyst warning (below efficiency threshold) - was the car sat a while before you bought it? What mpg are you getting from a tank and normal driving? The c1223 is abs related and the U codes are model specific 'body' codes (such as wheel sensors maybe?) The b1421 and b1424 are issues to do with solar/light sensors mounted on/near the dash on both drivers and passenger side- seems a common benign fault but not one I have on my 53 plate RX... I believe these sensors tell the climate control when direct sunlight is entering the cabin so it can adjust blowers from feet to face vents - as the RX has a dual climate control system (that can be set at diff temps for driver and passenger) that's why there are two sensors. Really unlikely both have fault but maybe unplugged somewhere by accident or a wiring harness issue, which I suspect may be the same as your 'U' codes triggering the C1223... If you know a bit about cars, find the abs block under the bonnet and check the wiring harness connector to it, it might be water logged or damaged. Hope some of this helps! [emoji3] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk1 point
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True, OBDII will not throw a code for low or non existent fuel pressure, a quick test for the fuel pump is to open the engine diagnostic socket and place a jumper wire between +B and FP connections of the socket and then see if the car starts. Also on the passenger side fuel rail there is a pressure regulator connected to it at the rear, it looks like a little top hat with a pip in the top, if you do the above test this little pip should pop up if full fuel pressure is present. On the 1996 you will have to remove the engine cover to do this. The fuel filter as mentioned can is often overlooked as a service item and can become completely clogged. Regarding the replacement pump reliability, on ebay it does say "lifetime warranty" and for the cost compared with Lexus prices surely worth a try. Worse thing is a failed CPS would have thrown a code so why 2 supposedly professional outfits wrongly diagnosed a part costing £200.00 is beyond belief. My advice is to also find another garage who are experts instead of guessperts preferably a little further north :) If you can drive it 150 miles north I'll even take a look for you.1 point
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I'm here :) You can get a good quality OEM specification fuel pump for around £60.00,example below. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-OEM-Replacement-Fuel-Pump-Lexus-LS400-1990-1998-/121755849570?hash=item1c5936d362:g:IPQAAOSwHmhV8PLf £200.00 to fit a new fuel pump! Must be London prices, probably a 2 hour job,less for a professional. To access the fuel pump the rear seat base (30 seconds to remove) and the upright section (20 minutes to remove), once this is out of the way the fuel tank is exposed, remove the pump access plate (5 minutes) and remove and refit the new pump (30 minutes).Put it all back together again. What are your symptoms making the fuel pump the culprit? My MOT garage are charging me only £200.00 + VAT labour to replace my timing belt and that is a 6-8 hour job.1 point
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A good modern oil can go much further than 3,000 miles even if it's only semi, and not fully, synthetic. Lexus recommend an oil and filter change at 7,500 miles. The Americans with their 'Jiffy Lube' mentality are still stuck in the Sixties when an engine oil could only do for 3,000 miles. But, a modern fully synthetic oil can safely and easily do 3 to 4 times that distance without breaking down.1 point
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The toyota V8 can take any decent 5w30 or similar oil tbh, no need to use lexus branded oil at all. Just get a decent synthetic oil (valvoline, castrol, mobil, comma etcetc) and change it twice a year, you'll never have issues then since the additives will always be renewed after 6 months with new oil.1 point
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Be careful with the HID kits as when it comes down to the mot they can fail you on them. Just a word of caution. Its because of the age of the cars, the HID weren't around at the time. Something to do with the reflectors in the lights, with the hid kits the light bounces all over the place and can blind oncoming drivers etc.1 point
