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Sorry to hear of your family's loss Mike, a terrible thing to have happened, made more so because, like so many road deaths, it could have been avoided. Its very easy to stereotype particular groups of people, based on the actions of a few from within that group. I have a low opinion of cyclists, solicitors and Audi drivers (amongst others). That's part of the human condition, I think - its how we are, we disagree. But then I step back and realise just how irrational I'm being in my dislike of a group that I actually know so few of. Pete

I've driven it. To put your mind at rest it drives very well The 4 cylinder is very smooth and the torque is great. Fuel economy isn't great tbh, I couldn't get over 28 mpg but hey ho

I found some pictures with the bushes and how the look like

I just had a look at the links and there is a statement for the NO1. My friend is using the car on a daily basis she doesn't have another car to use while this is off the road.

Hi all, Just recently bought a CT200h and the ML audio was faulty. To be fair, the guy did point out that the volume control on the centre console wasn't working but it did other things instead. (the volume on the steering wheel is working). I discovered that the volume issue was small compared to the issues of changing discs etc. so I decided to have a dig around because the price of a head unit is hideous. Thinking that there seemed to be a logic problem I disconnected the battery (reset?) but that didn't do anything. Then decided that it was a pain in the ***** playing around so I pulled the head out to take it apart and see if there was any way to do a logic reset. Turns out that it was a poor connection on a ribbon cable. Here is how I fixed it. Remove the head unit from the car (there are instructions elsewhere online about that). With the head unit on the bench remove the half a dozen or so small screws that hold the black plastic front panel on. Pull off the two knobs and release the few plastic clips that hold the front panel on. BE VERY CAREFUL RIBBON CABLES ARE FRAGILE ! There is a ribbon cable that connects the front panel to the unit. Stiff areas at each end of that ribbon cable allow it to be pulled CAREFULLY out of each socket, Start with the one on the panel itself and then remove the ribbon from the unit NOTING THE ORIENTATION. Clean the ribbon cable and then re-install it. Reassembly is simply a reversal of taking it out. Damn site cheaper than a head unit and I am well chuffed.

http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_E_2007_LEXUS_RX400H_MHU38R-AWXGKW_4505.html That's the steering rack. But I'd be looking at generic Toyota bushings, particularly for the Harrier. A bit of Googling suggests that the same steering rack is used in MHU38W-AWXGK which is the Toyota Harrier hybrid.

Looks like the bushes are on bottom of rack, doent seem like a hard job just getting right size bushes. Look on utube shows a before and after.

Seen these on the bay 40.00May fit yours.

My experience of DAB in the IS is OK. I was under the impression that reception is pretty patchy throughout the UK, so I fully expected drop outs (especially in rural areas). The radio is clever enough to sync the DAB and FM signal, so that if DAB signal drops, the FM kicks in. You do notice the difference in audio, but I can live with it until the DAB network is improved.

Most reliable cars 22 Apr, 2015 12:40pmSam Naylor FACEBOOK TWITTER GOOGLE+ The top 10 most reliable cars to own, as rated by over 61,000 drivers in the UK There are no two ways about it, reliability is the number one most important thing for motorists when it comes to choosing a car. But despite all the hearsay surrounding manufacturers' reliability records you never really know what you're in for when you buy a new car. That's where our Driver Power survey comes in. Over 61,000 British motorists told us about their cars, making Driver Power the largest survey of its type in the UK, and from that data we can bring you a definitive list of the country's most reliable cars. This year the top-rated car for reliability was the Toyota iQ - a clever city car with a surprising amount of space inside. It's been around for six years now and its owners are clearly more than satisfied with its dependability over that time. • Driver Power 2015 results in full Toyota's sister brand Lexus takes the next two places in the list, with the NX and IS models placing second and third for reliability in the 2015 Driver Power results. In fact, the chart is dominated by Japanese and Korean brands, with the SEAT Leon being the only car in the reliability top ten from a European manufacturer. At the bottom of the top 200 cars this year are the Range Rover and Land Rover Discovery 3 - and that'll be no surprise if you remember previous survey results, as those cars have ranked poorly in the past as well. Scroll down to the bottom of this page for the bottom 10 in our most reliable list...

In the US the boot size change came at the end of 2008. Cannot confirm or deny that change also occurred for the UK vehicles - no reason why not but there doesn't seem to be a press release about it. The series 4 (current model) in 2012 has a much bigger boot, and the car is better in every other way too. I'd try and stretch your budget to that, or wait until the prices drop a little bit. The series 3 is not the most reliable Lexus, still more reliable than most but was built during the time when Toyota's cost cutting was in full force and it was really only a minor update on the series 2, so it is a bit dated with a poor chassis.

for 20-25K you can get an early LS460 if that's too large, just get a late GS430 if you want a Lexus or Infiniti M37. they both large cars with acres of space in front at the back and in the boot. can hit 60 around the 5.5 to 6.0 secs . they are both not Hybrid models so you wont need to worry about battery issues once they start ageing. i3 might be quicker for the first 2-3 secs in this video but how many times does one do 0-40 accelerations only to be passed once you hit 50 and above its no fun is it.. and even in bumper to bumper traffic like London once you start accelerating the i3 like in this video your charge will drop dramatically..

If this is truly going to be your last car and your going to keep the Octavia for towing/luggage carrying duites why not try something really different... £20-25k will now buy you a used BMW i3 range extender. It's a small car, but 0-40 is quicker than a M3 (according to BMW even quicker than a M5!!), and 0-60 isn't bad at just under 8 seconds. So unless your going to the autobahn for Vmax records it'all be just as quick as any 3L BMW/Audi in the real world. But difference is fuel costs are next to nothing compared to any 3L BMW, and with no complex turbo chargers maintainece costs are very little. You also get a whole load of gadgets/tech, things like pre-heating/cooling the car from your phone :)...Though to fit two sets of golf clubs you're have to drop the rear seats. My parent in-laws are retiring soon, and they want something a bit cheaper to run to complement their E-Class and the mini they have at the moment has serious oil drinking problem. I've booked them a test drive in an i3 in a few weekends. I'm going along with them because they feel abit nervous about the whole electric car buissness, I'm actually quite excited to see how it compares to our current Lexus IS300H and Nissan Leaf :)