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Lexus service pricing has become stupidly expensive. The following shows what they should be doing - this replaces what may be listed in your service book: http://www.lexus.co.uk/img/Lexus-Service-Checklists_tcm880-1321794.pdf For your age of vehicle you can use essentials servicing which should reduce the price from £275 to £179. The work carried out is as follows: http://www.lexus.co.uk/img/Lexus-Essential-Care-Service-Content-1014_tcm880-1323585.pdf

Just thought i'd mention a product I used recently and would definitely recommend. I've tried to be as honest as possible as there are so many reviews online these days it's difficult to actually find a product that actually works. [seafoam - does it work or just produce smoke when it's burnt. Impressive but possibly pointless!] I've also listed why I tried it and what led me to try it. It's important. (no one ever sates this fully!) Anyway, onto the review... I had done a full service on my car, including the evil fuel filter job, and I had also cleaned the egr all with improvements to drivability and mpg. All was well. Running great. Then, suddenly my mpg dropped which baffled me. From 36mpg, with mainly town driving, down to 28mpg. I spent most of my time in higher gears trying to bring it back up. I researched online and decided to buy an induction cleaner which may help. I bought a cheaper (cheaper than the product i'm reviewing!) induction cleaning fluid, Liqui Molly, which came with varied reviews, but better than most. I tried the direct into the induction system method, one of the options available, but there was no difference. Not saying it doesn't work, but it didn't work for me with that method. So I went deeper with my research and found this stuff: It isn't cheap at just over £20 but it came with great reviews all round. More info here: http://bgprod.co.uk/products/fuel-and-air-intake/bg244 I chucked it in the tank once the fuel light came on, gave it a blast down the motorway/a-roads, then filled up to the brim. Back to 36mpg after a tank load. I'll be honest, I thought once I emptied the tank and refiled it would go back down in mpg over time, but several refills later and still good mpg. Recently, on a fresh tank, I went on a long journey (330 miles-ish) and I got great mpg... ...I even broke 56mpg at one point, but the M25 crucified that. OK, motorway driving will always get better results but i'm currently on 48 and that's a 50/50 split with motorway and town driving. Few more days and i'll have to fill up so it won't change much. (FYI - I have a medium to heavy pedal foot!) I'm not saying this is the solution to your problems, please do a full service first. Check the obvious, follow the diagnosis, get it on a code reader if you can and do your research before plummeting your money into something that 'someone' said is great on the internet. I want to avoid a bad rep for a product due to people expecting miracles. But, as in my scenario, you've done that and you have a similar high mile car it might be worth a try. The car just might need to clean its tubes. Product states to use it 10,000 miles. For my part every two years is enough, which I will be doing. Depends on milage of your car of course. My motor did 130,000 without it. £20 over 2 years is pennies. Hope this helps someone, anyone. I will update the thread if anything changes. Again, also important. Luke

If your dealer wants to contribute to replacing the worn tyres please let me know where he is, sounds like he is one in a million!

I'd put two new tyres on the back and two of the best from your original five on the front. You will then at least know if its the tyres causing the problems for a small outlay.

Hi all, just got back from ATS and they havent done any of the work as they say all the tyres need changing, I am no tyre expert, far from it and while I agree that one wants doing I think they are taking the mickey with the others which has really annoyed me as we have used them for years and I certainly expect better. So will be taking it somewhere else next week for a second opinion. All that said, they say that the rear nearside tyre is misshapen which would make sense as thats the corner I thought the noise was coming from. No arguement that that wants replacing. they are saying two others want replacing as they have cracks in them but I have looked when I got back here and cannot see any cracks, and the fourth they say wants replacing due to it running the tyre off on the inside although the rest of the tyre has 4-5mm however they wont say any of the tyres are illegal or that they wouldnt pass an MOT which they did 2k miles ago. The best bit, £739 for four Dunlops or £530 for four Michelin so really not impressed given the amount of business we have given them over the years. So hopefully the issues really are just down to the tyres, so far I have found I can get 4 michelin latitude tour for £115.00 plus vat each and alignment front and rear for £40 + vat so if replacing all £500 should sort it and I am sure the selling dealer will help out with that given that he wasnt aware they were that bad but I think two tyres will do as the other two (if not severely cracked) have 4 and 5 mm on them so should at last till winter. So thats where we are at, they say there is no play on the bearings so thats good, does the misshaped tyre sound plausible as the cause of the noise? it causing vibration would seem to be a no brainer but your opinions on noise generation from an out of shape tyre would be helpful. Thanks for all the help so far, will definately go for the Michelins on replacement.

Many warranties have a maximum payout which is probably what is in play here otherwise the item is either covered or it isn't. Personally I would have just purchased a unit from a breakers. Giving Lexus £4000 for a part that probably only costs a few hundred pounds to manufacture doesn't seem right. I'd also be contacting Lexus and getting them to inspect it to see if it should have been in the recall. Has your dealer offered any explanation why it has failed so soon after they performed work on that part of the vehicle?

Nope wont pay anymore very few independant warranties would have even considered an inverter so they have been fair. Cj

Let us know what advisories they give you on the MoT, bet you a badger there's at least 2, with one being £350+ to fix!! As you have the same age RX as me, these are a couple of things that I need to sort on mine for mot in 3 months time, they are age and wear related so I would expect the same for yours... Do you know what sort of condition your oil cooler metal pipes are in (located under the radiator above the first bit of plastic under tray under the nose of the car)? (Pic attached) It's about 40-50quid and is prone to corroding where it is located (to the point it leaks/weeps ATM fluid) barely noticeable as drips on driveway but MoT failure, I believe. The other thing is exhaust mounting brackets, one of mine (a metal hook welded to exhaust and attaches to a rubber mount on the underside of car) by the last rear back box has totally corroded away but exhaust itself is sound still and remaining fixings are firm. Some useful RX owner here suggested using Jubilee clips to reattach the section with the broken hook to the rubber mount but I found some great stainless steel "cable tie" fixings which should arrive soon. Not an MoT failure but an advisory none the less. Other than that, check your brake discs aren't scored, uneven tyre wear/tread depth, lights/horn/wipers/washer jets work, and fingers crossed!! :) Chris

I believe the power transfer is just front to back, so if a rear wheel loses traction and spins, with traction control/VSC on, it should theoretically apply the brake to the spinning wheel / or back the power off by electronically numbing the throttle (depending on driving conditions from wheel speed senso per wheel, steering angle and yaw sensors etc). With traction control/VSC disabled, the slipping wheel would still spin at the rear and I assume the power would be sent 50:50 front to back. Power isn't split or transferred between wheels (left and right) on the same axle BUT braking can be as is independently controlled for each wheel by the ABS computer. It's all clever stuff but is not fully automatic (only safety features are) so understanding how and when to use/enable certain features could mean the difference with getting stranded or not! This is where I believe the car's manual really sucks explaining how the AWD works and how to cover common scenarios (stuck in mud or pulling away in snowy or icy conditions for example!). Chris

no lol 430 operates at its most efficient when cruising at exactly 70mph any less or any more and its inefficient. Info based on ??????. Having owned my GS430 for over 7 years I can say with certainty that this is incorrect.

Silver roof rails and front and rear silver bumper attachments. Its a factory option but was available free of charge at one point.

Had a little change made to my grill today.... what do you think?