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Same here Mr Sheen,2 cloths one to rub it around one to buff it up. Just make sure you put the tin back before the other half finds out :)

no major problems with the series II RX300 other than the air suspension can be a bit unreliable so you may want to avoid the SE-L models. If you can find an RX 350 within budget then that would be the one to go for.

I think the beauty of " real " classics is the simple technology they have. Even the earliest Ls400 / Celsior is electronically complex by classic car standards. It's not difficult to get classic spares for most cars, even if they are bespoke manufactured somewhere. And the electronic technology is often just a screwdriver, hammer, points, plugs and HT leads. Malc ps my 1932 Triumph is such a creature and after 84 years bits are available from somewhere or if really desperate can be made-up to fit.

For that money i would rather get the ls460.

I've been using TEC 2000 recently, but mainly because I came across a job lot at a good price. I'd be as happy with STP or Wynn's or more or less any other brand. I change oil with flush at 5K mile intervals - maybe a bit OTT, but it means I don't worry if I go over by 1000 miles or whatever. And I'm obsessive about a clean engine (inside!). An interesting anecdote from Saturday's Telegraph car section - Honest John questions. Someone wrote in to say they had their first service on a Mk 7 Golf 2.0TDI at 19000 miles and the fuel economy seemed to have improved. Response - 'You had the first service at 19000 miles? I hope you're not intending to keep the car for long' !

I always use an engine flush additive before each oil change. I used to have a Saab 900 and I flushed that at every oil change too, with no problems. Flush additive can cause problems if it is used in a very dirty engine, as it can loosen heavy deposits, large particles of which can block oilways. Some Saab engines, and for some reason particularly those fitted to the 9000 and 9/5, suffer from heavy silting - it is very common for the oil strainer on the pick up in the sump to become blocked and this can lead to engine seizure. I suspect that the best flush in the world can't dissolve the crud, and flushing just adds to the problem. Sad, but Saabs are disappearing very quickly indeed! They were a good left field choice, as is the Lexus.

Hi Steve, 5w/30 is the recommended grade - there are quite a few post on the forum about the oil. When I was initially monitoring the oil I did notice a drop in oil twice that corresponded with giving the car a bit of a "thrashing" using it with the paddle shifts - noticing this twice I would say that's not a coincidence I am not worried about the loss of oil as its the only time in owning the car I have noticed the drop in the level. I am going to monitor the different type of oil against this one to see if there's any differences with this type. I have always flushed the engine on the last few cars I have had - there is an issue with this engine that it will produce a rattle on start up from the VVTI which is not reported to be a big problem. I have had the issue a few times and it corresponds on mine to when an oil change is due ... the noise disappears after an oil change and whether its the fact that I have done an oil change or the engine flush I don't know but it cures the noise.

Same as mine, great colour combination inside. Strangely enough after having owned 2 IS250's and a GS300 all with reverse camera I have only just noticed when in reverse you can change the guidelines from paralell park to bay parking.