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to answer your question AUFC, a V6 engine is designed with each piston bank and cylinders facing away from each other there by giving a V like shape once viewed from an anlge. as seen below. a straight 6 engine is designed with all piston bank and cylinders 'Inline' with each other as seen below. this blog gives you an idea about pros and cons of both engine design. http://blog.iseecars.com/2010/10/07/v6-vs-inline-6-pros-and-cons/ BEAMS engine is a high revving, high compresion ratio, 4 cylinder Toyota performance engine with on the fly valve timing adjustment capabiliies on both the intake and exhaust valves.

Thank you gentleman, I shall be buying a new bulb and I am pleased I have a new one or the back light too ! Thank you for that video Matt, but holy smokes it looks a bit too technical for me. If I try to do anything more than change light bulbs I will run into problems :)

Take your pick of these' BA9s ...there's literally thousands of them....LOL. http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw=bayonet+fitting+led&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR11.TRC1.A0.H0.Xt4w+led&_nkw=t4w+led&_sacat=0

just remembered also check the system hasn't been turned off accidently - there is a swtich on the drivers footwell - while you there just switch it on and off. also if you have another key then try that aswell to rule out a faulty key hope this helps

Right I went through all this a couple of years ago..... You need a master key to programme another key. Even Lexus would need an existing master key to make you a new master. Lexus will order you a new master key, it comes cut already for your car but NOT programmed. The ONLY way it can be programmed is if the car has an existing master key. If you only have 2 valet keys then these can be copied as valet keys but you cannot programme a master key from a valet key. This is what Lexus Bristol told me. Also yes, if the security light goes out immediately after inserting the key it's a master, if the light stays on for 2-3 seconds and them goes out it's a valet key.

They are stop and tail - R580,most car garages/outlets sell them.

As everyone else has suggested, they are very cheap. I replaced the complete set on my car around a week or so ago. The brand I used was called "Wot Nots" by Pearl Automotive. They pop in and back out very easily and are extremely durable compared to the crap that Lexus saw fit to use. I bet if we were to conduct a survey, we would no doubt find that there is not an IS220d owner out there that has all of the original grommets in place. If there is, I will take my hat off to him / her

Stress cracks can happen for a number of reasons. Curve not matching the body is one, but usually the least likely, because the glass is placed onto glue between the body and glass. The glue is not a liquid, but it's not solid either (obviously until it dries). It's a polyurethane type bead. Because of it's consistency, you can have it sit flatter in parts than others, negating the difference in curvature etc. Unless the glass is viciously distorted, so much so that it simply does not fit. Other causes are faulty glass (weak point that can crack, or what's called a "shell" which is like a stone chip, but in the edge of the glass - which can crack with vibration and twist from the chassis moving while driving). Can also happen from pressure against the glass, such as a scuttle being put back too tightly - obviously this depends on the car; I've seen it happen a bunch of times to certain Mercs that have a plastic scuttle that sits against the screen, and is held in place with screws that pass through the scuttle to the bulkhead below the screen. Over tightening of the screws can, and does, crack the screen. Incorrect fitting can also crack screens - not enough glue, too much glue, incorrect position of the car during the placement (ideally, you want it on flat ground where all 4 wheels are at the same height. Gentle slopes aren't a problem, but having one, two, or three wheels on a kerb or uneven drive can allow the car to "sag" while the screen is out, then the new screen is bonded in it sets in that position - then you pull off the kerb or drive and drive it, and it can crack. Had this happen to me back in the early days, with a Ford Galaxy. Now I insist on moving the car if the position isn't ideal. Foreign bodies such as spacer blocks, or grit in the glue, can also crack it. Many cars use rubber spacer blocks under the glass and along the glue line to set the height of the screen, but I've seen them crack glass before too. Had a Volvo S40 in a few years ago that had stresscracked after fitting, only to find the fitter had put runner spacer blocks along the bottom of the screen, and because they weren't needed on that model, the screen had crcked against one. Likewise, NOT putting spacer blocks where there should be ones can also lead to cracking.

Totally agree. Yeah could've googled it but why not post on Lexus owners club and meet new like minded Lexus enthusiasts at the same time.

Matt, the forums are here for members to ask questions are they not?