I'm Going To Do It...lexus Ls400 Cambelt Etc...

Tinonline · May 2, 2015

Hi

I've spent time reading up and researching the cambelt change. Sourcing parts, additional equipment I'll need to buy etc... plenty of great tutorials too.

I'll make it a project over a number of days.

Question: Do I need to remove the radiator...detach the ATF hoses etc? Can't this job be done with the rad in situ? As you remove the components you begin to create more space as you move into the engine?

Having recently bought a 70k miles 400 with full service history but essential service routines...no cambelt change at all, naturally I plan to replace water pump, pulleys, tensioner and probs crankshaft seal.

I have to do this myself...

Car is a Year 2000

Interested to know your thoughts and experience.

steve2006 · May 2, 2015

I haven't done my own yet but the garage that did mine last time didn't remove the radiator but mine is slightly different as it has a hydraulic cooling fan set up.

I guess you have seen the VVTI tutorial on www.lexls.com it's for the LS430 but basically the same engine.

cruisermark · May 2, 2015

might help

Tinonline · May 3, 2015

Thanks for the replies - this is great and is on my PC's favourite bar...as I keep going back to it.

I don't want to over complicate the job: either by over doing it or under doing it! Most workshop manuals will have you dismantling the entire vehicle to repair a component...great for service charges but a little OTT for us owners. I want to do it efficiently.

Maybe I can try it. I've got the engine fan + coupling...nothing fancy/upgraded.

Tinonline · May 3, 2015

Another question...

Why have marks on the cambelt? If the pulleys line up and the crank is TDC too then the marks act as a help only?

keybasher2 · May 3, 2015

I`m trying to convince myself that this is not too bad of a job ! I would think removing rad would be advisable, maybe better access and less risk of damaging it ?

Not sure about replacing crank oil seal if its bone dry,even if it starts to leak in future would it not last till the next belt change? One bit that frightens me is the crank bolt and how tight it is going to be,was thinking of investing in an electric windy gun. I presume the belt marks are just another point of reference for cam timing.

Hope the job goes well.

Simon

Mybikes a cx500 · May 3, 2015

Another question...

Why have marks on the cambelt? If the pulleys line up and the crank is TDC too then the marks act as a help only?

Just belt and braces, it's not something you want to get a tooth out

ambermarine · May 4, 2015

The reference marks on the cambelt are put on at factory when the cambelt is maufactured they make sure the belt is on the right way round and set in position on the tooth count ,the marks put on by the guy doing the job are probably the way he does all cambelt changes.Simon hits the point in his reference to belt and braces,because it is possible to get the belt a tooth out and that would be a serious problem later.

There are no easy ways round this job and I would definitly remove the rad as getting at some of the pulleys would be very difficult were it in situ.

15 years ago I came up with a "non workshop manual" way of replacing the front upper control arms which reduced the job time by 80%, it as been the most visited pinned tip on the forum and saved a lot of hassle for thousands of members and Lexus owners worldwide but it is in the minority as most of the jobs replacing consumables on the LS400 have a single dicipline procedure .

steve2006 · May 4, 2015

One thing I would add is make absolutely sure every nut and bolt is torqued correctly and if thread lock is recommended on any use it.

Reason I say this is that there have been a few incidents (one a LOC member) where after the cam belt had been replaced the VVTI actuator on the end of the camshaft had come loose due to the fixing bolts loosening then shearing and had consequently seriously damaged the engine to the point it was scrap.

Ambermarine, when I replaced my UCA the book method was to remove the strut/coil but by jacking the hub up slightly the bolts can pass between the spring coils without removing it.

Tinonline · May 4, 2015

Thanks to all - yes a 'short cut' can end up a 'long cut' and I want to do a good job.

I share a dread of the crankshaft bolt along with Keybasher 2, I don't want to spin the engine on the starter or wedge the flywheel.

The US are well served by parts and tool suppliers...not much choice in the UK.

That leaves buying or hiring a crank pulley holding tool. I'd look to set the timing at 50 degrees on the mark after TDC to set-up the belt having looked at other info on the subject.

Mybikes a cx500 · May 4, 2015

That video link Cruismark put up is very good, I maybe skipped a few bits, but didn't see the crank pulley holding tool bit. The pulley bolt in the vid. came off with an impact wrench- you can get 250volt ones, no air line required.

I'd have a go myself now, given the garage space. wouldn't have before. I like the way they tape the belts together to transfer the marks, makes it foolproof. That big guys knows what he's about

Tinonline · May 5, 2015

That video link Cruismark put up is very good, I maybe skipped a few bits, but didn't see the crank pulley holding tool bit. The pulley bolt in the vid. came off with an impact wrench- you can get 250volt ones, no air line required.

I'd have a go myself now, given the garage space. wouldn't have before. I like the way they tape the belts together to transfer the marks, makes it foolproof. That big guys knows what he's about

Hopefully the belts will be marked up. I've ordered a Gates kit - I know some will be heavily drawing breath at that...I'll post again on OEM topic when I've conquered this particular mountain!

I'll look into hiring the impact wrench. But how do I stop the pulley from turning?

ambermarine · May 5, 2015

I think you mean the crankshaft turning ,just put the gear knob in park.The impact wrench does what it says, the shock treatment releases the nut, unlike applying constant increased torque.There is nothing wrong with Gates they were at one time the biggest belt manufacturer in the world I once held shares indirectly after Tomkins (Greg Hutchings) Guns to buns group bought them in the 80s.Gates as now been sold to a private equity group after untangling a very intricate family trust involvement which incidently brought about Hutchings exit from Tomkins as a wrong purchase.

Titch LS · May 5, 2015

Putting the car in Park won't stop the crankshaft from turning. If it did you wouldn't ever be able to start the car! Regarding the pulley, I would try jamming the flywheel with a very large allen key. I've heard of this method being used successfully on the LS. Just make sure there is a cord attatched by tape when you use it. You don't want to accidentally let it drop it while it's in there. I have an electric impact wrench but it's too big to squeeze in the gap in front of the crankshaft pulley. A pneumatic one might work if you have the use of a compressor, as they seem to be of a more compact design. I would have to summon all my nerve to use the alternative "jam the pulley and briefly turn the starter " method, although that does work too. All the best with your efforts, whichever way you take.

ambermarine · May 5, 2015

Hi Titch

I did explain that the impact wrench works on shock and the crankshaft is not going to get chance to move anyway the park scenario is a secondary safety hold .If you watch the video that was posted you will see the guy uses no aids to stop the crankshaft turning when using the impact wrench.

Could you explain how you propose to get into the teeth of the flywheel with an allen key.

As far as I can tell the only place you can see any teeth on the flywheel is were the starter engages and that requires taking the head off the engine.

There is also the rear of the engine but that requires removing the bell housing on the gearbox .

Mybikes a cx500 · May 5, 2015

Hi Titch

I did explain that the impact wrench works on shock and the crankshaft is not going to get chance to move anyway the park scenario is a secondary safety hold .If you watch the video that was posted you will see the guy uses no aids to stop the crankshaft turning when using the impact wrench.

Could you explain how you propose to get into the teeth of the flywheel with an allen key.

As far as I can tell the only place you can see any teeth on the flywheel is were the starter engages and that requires taking the head off the engine.

There is also the rear of the engine but that requires removing the bell housing on the gearbox .

Actually it's the inlet manifold that has to come off to reach the starter, but that's as much effort as taking the head of a normal engine! even when you can see the starter its a nightmare to get out, but as has been said, with an impact wrench, there's no need to jam the crank anyway.

Iv'e shifted a few nuts by applying torque with a spanner and tapping away patiently with a hammer. (Not suggesting you try that, but the principles the same with an impact wrench, just a lot quicker)

ambermarine · May 5, 2015

I stand corrected Ian but as you say the work involved is the same.

keybasher2 · May 5, 2015

Machine Mart do a 240v impact gun capable of 330 ft lbs, just shy of £70

Simon

Tinonline · May 5, 2015

I think you mean the crankshaft turning ,just put the gear knob in park.The impact wrench does what it says, the shock treatment releases the nut, unlike applying constant increased torque.There is nothing wrong with Gates they were at one time the biggest belt manufacturer in the world I once held shares indirectly after Tomkins (Greg Hutchings) Guns to buns group bought them in the 80s.Gates as now been sold to a private equity group after untangling a very intricate family trust involvement which incidently brought about Hutchings exit from Tomkins as a wrong purchase.

Very interesting...I was taking a look at the owners of BluePrint parts the other day as it can be an indication of quality/direction etc..

Glad to hear you give the OK to Gates. I was looking at Airtex too as I'd fitted an Airtex water pump to my Jag 4ltr (20 mins job) and it was by far superior to the original. I was impressed with the update notes and instructions too.

Tinonline · May 5, 2015

Machine Mart do a 240v impact gun capable of 330 ft lbs, just shy of £70

Simon

Think I'll hire it for £20...I'm going to need to torque it too and my wrench "only" goes up to 210 nm. :eerrrmm:

Titch LS · May 5, 2015

Ambermarine, to stop the crankshaft pulley from turning you can lock the flexplate (lightweight flywheel) that the torque converter is bolted to. You do this by removing the undertray and then removing the flexplate access plate. You can then wedge a large allen key into one of the flexplate (flywheel) holes. You then slowly rotate the 22mm pulley bolt anti-clockwise until you feel resistance on the allen key. Using a long breaker bar the bolt will come free. This is a successful method used by one of our American friends on their forum. Hope this helps. Titch

ambermarine · May 5, 2015

Thanks for that tip Brian it is new one on me,thats what I like most about this forum shared views and experience that helps others.

Mikaelse · May 6, 2015

I have a 1995 ls400 here in Sweden .

I have a tip that made the crank shaft bolt very easy with no drama. (Also should be easy to retorque . I will use a long wrench and a simple digital luggage scale).

I bought a very large 46 mm open end wrench . Was equivalent of 8£ !, Not high quality probably. Was possible with a normal Battery drill to make two 8 mm holes in the U-shaped part 66 mm apart. Two 8 mm screws in there secured with nuts is a perfect match for two 8,5 mm holes in the crank belt Wheel (25 mm Deep). Then a firm yank at the 22 mm with a long armed socket wrench (15£) and the bolt came loose easy.

A normal socket wrench kit with a piece of pipe would probably have sufficed.

Mikael

keybasher2 · May 7, 2015

Sounds like a crackin idea ! (no pun intended)

Simon

Tinonline · May 7, 2015

I have a 1995 ls400 here in Sweden .

I have a tip that made the crank shaft bolt very easy with no drama. (Also should be easy to retorque . I will use a long wrench and a simple digital luggage scale).

I bought a very large 46 mm open end wrench . Was equivalent of 8£ !, Not high quality probably. Was possible with a normal battery drill to make two 8 mm holes in the U-shaped part 66 mm apart. Two 8 mm screws in there secured with nuts is a perfect match for two 8,5 mm holes in the crank belt Wheel (25 mm Deep). Then a firm yank at the 22 mm with a long armed socket wrench (15£) and the bolt came loose easy.

A normal socket wrench kit with a piece of pipe would probably have sufficed.

Mikael

Hi

That's a great idea. I managed to get a beefy torque wrench for £20 picked up from a Gumtree ad. Bargain. My wrench fell short of the required torque. This one looks like it will do steam engines. The guy also threw in a couple of huge spanners too...let me get my tape measure out...see if I can replicate Mikael's method.

Another question: leave water pump studs in? Or have to take them out? Need to obtain extractor socket(s) if the latter.

Waiting for the parts to arrive at the mo whilst collecting tools together.