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yes, but how can a nut adhere to the threads of the one i am tyring to get off, i am not getting this, else i am thick...!

if it involves welding the nut onto the one stuck on the alloy i would rather not go that route with risk of damaging my wheel.

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MIg welder will weld a new nut on top of the remains of the old one,

It's not screwed on just welded on top.[like a stack].

The heat will be drawn down the stud, very little if any will stray to the wheel.

Welding time is very quick.

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ok so, a nut is welded onto the existing lock nut then this is quickly stuck to the alloy nut and removed?!

looks like i could try get friendly with a local garage, i am reluctant to get onto lexus as i got 4 new lock nuts on the way, these OEM ones are terrible.

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Yes, just weld it on to the remains of the original damaged nut [after it has been tidied up], so you

get a secure weld.

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would MIG welding damage the alloy? I realised I need to do this on the 4 wheels as my oem lock nut is totally sheared.

It depends how much care is used. The nut will get very hot, potentially hot enough to damage the paint on the alloy next to the bolt, but probably not hot enough to do any serious damage to the casting.

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my first port of call is the body shop who done this damage, i am still owned a job from them also, so its awkward. Its pretty clear they tightened this way too much, they will just point the blame on me now that the lock key is broken.

Is there any point calling my breakdown service? I am with chris knott.

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Replacement locking keys are sometimes available, if there are any numbers or identity marks on yours, there are

some on eBay now.

If you could get one and maybe get the others off leaving one bad one your breakdown service may help, well worth

a try anyway , this must be a popular problem.

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as people have previously described theres probably only a couple of ways to get this off

use a locking key nut remover which would go over the exsiting nut like a large thread and basically screw into the bolt using an opposite thread and the undo them that way (isnt fun doing this and time consuming)

build up a weld on the nut then weld a socket or another nut to the top of the locking wheel nut and undo it that way. going to have to be alot of welds in there as its probably on pretty damn tight.

as **** as it is youve gotta think whats more important being towed if you get a flat or something. which ever way you look at it, its eventually gotta be done and could possibly cost you quite a bit

and as for getting the garage to pay for theres no proof then done it you could of gone to another garage or anything in their eyes there going to dodge it any way they can

sorry

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good news

i got it off from Lexus hedge end, £20, He said was over torqued. Garage denied all responsibility, dont they all. I have ordinary nuts on now which is a good job as I have new lock nuts in the post.

Glad its over.!

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brute force! thats what he said, outcome could have been much much worse! My alloy is intact apart from a nick on the rim near the bolt, i am getting it refurbed from the same body shop and that i hope is that.

thanks for the advice and interest.!

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That of course applies to bolts - our cars have nuts but the procedure would be the same, except that at the end you have to remove the remains of the stud, which may or may not be easy. (They are usually a spline fit in the hub - not sure what method Lexus use. A G-clamp may press them out)

Lesson - never, ever, allow a garage or tyre shop to have possession of your car with lock nuts in place. Buy some spare nuts and either dispense with the locks altogether (how many wheels actually get nicked these days?) or replace your lock nuts with the plain ones before you take the car to a garage and replace them afterwards. You'll need a torque wrench to get the nuts to correct and even torque.

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