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Posted

Guys,

I am going to take off these OEM pads, the amount of dust and %$$*# coming from them is nothing short of a scandal. My 'new' alloys are but grime now a week later.

What are the best combo of pads and discs to put on? I can change both as I think they are due a change on all 4 wheels.

I am open to grooved/slotted etc discs too so whatever is the recommended.

cheers.

Posted

Your brake dust probably has more to do with you having worn discs(probably with a slight lip) than with the disc and pads being OEM

Posted

MTEC grooved/drilled discs (black) plus EBC Redstuff pads do it for me. Next time I'll get Yellowstuff pads, but you have to drive really hard to get fade with the Reds - but I use some long steep hills!

Posted

MTEC grooved/drilled discs (black) plus EBC Redstuff -- will it void warranty ?


Posted

While on the subject of brake pads, how do you guys find the Lexus IS250 braking power? I remember the day I bought it, I felt the braking power is not sufficient considering the power it has. When I've pointed it to the previous owner, he mentioned that is due to EBD (electronic braking distribution) and the brake pads were replaced the previous year (not sure which brand).

Posted

I've never really found any problems. Just press the brake pedal harder! You can always get to the point of bringing in the ABS (you would lock a wheel otherwise).

I dislike brakes which make a car stand on it's nose when you just touch the brake pedal - my wife's Mii is like that - makes it hard to modulate your braking to stop smoothly. My supercharged MX-5 (which has redstuff pads) needs high pedal pressures and you can modulate the braking easily from 'slight' to 'wheel lock' (no ABS on that) with varying pedal pressures. I know women generally do not like to drive MX-5s with redstuff pads. (Apologies if that's sexist - it just reflects comments I've heard over the years)

It seems the smaller and less powerful a car is, the more the brakes feel 'too much', and the faster the car the less braking you seem to have - at first sight. If you've ever driven a racing car you'll know they feel as if they have no brakes at all at first. It's all a matter of feel and using the brakes correctly - and driver experience.

Posted

I will get MTEC, 310mm at rear and 296mm front. Mine are still original and on 60k miles.

time to freshen up.

yellow stuff f/r pads - £192.30

front mtec disc £83.99

rear mtec disc £82.99

not cheap by any means but......

Posted

quoted £140 from my mechanic, local guy to work. does a very good job.

Am getting everything done Friday.


Posted
Job done, will have to wait for these to bed in before i can try them out but the mechanic said they are incredible.


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Posted

A friend of mine had the mtec drilled discs which warped after 8 months. I personally stick to OEM discs,and get the alternative OEM Low Dust brake pads from America, it's a much better combination i find.

Posted

getting OEM low dust pads from the USA seems a bit of hard work, break pads ffs.

If these MTEC warp at 8 months usage I would seek a refund.

Posted

getting OEM low dust pads from the USA seems a bit of hard work, break pads ffs.

It's not that bad, specially with eBay's global shipping programme.

If these MTEC warp at 8 months usage I would seek a refund.

Sounds like a good plan :)

Posted

Warped discs are almost invariably caused by careless installation - you have to check run-out very carefully when installing. If there's too much, the discs will appear warped (due to thickness variation). 8 months is a pretty typical time period for it to manifest itself.

Refunds on 'warped' discs are exceedingly difficult to obtain - manufacturers almost always claim it's due to faulty installation. You might be lucky but unless you have, and use correctly, a dial gauge you are courting problems.

Lexus only say to install the disc in the position giving 'minimum runout' but if it's any more than 0.1mm at the disc rim the disc is unlikely to run true enough to avoid apparent warping.

But if you do experience it - good luck with a refund!

Posted

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these are incredible, stopping power is immense over OEM. Did a bedding in session last night. :whistling:

Posted

I'm still on original disc which are really showing their age now, and I'm at 83k so about time to change, would u recommend them toffee_pie?

Posted

I think you can gather from my tone that I would. 83k on originals, you need to take them off man and get new ones.

Posted

Tell me the obvious dude ;) I was thinking of getting OEM disc and pads, or would u recommend mtec disc? What about pads front and back?

Posted

The OEM discs are OK, but they are cheap discs which are intended to be changed with every set of pads, whereas high-end discs tend to be made of a harder alloy. If you do mainly motorway driving and don't use the brakes much, then you might as well use OEM discs or a low-cost alterantive brand like Pagid.

In terms of pads, the OEM pads are aggressive, very dusty and very hard on discs. Again, if you don't routinely do spirited driving through the highlands, then a low cost OEM equivalent pad would likely give similar performance. More expensive pads like EBC redstuff are supposed to be harder wearing and lower dust. My experience is that they are still very dusty, but maybe not quite as bad as OEM.

Posted

I'll probably just stick with the OEM, can't say they've ever let me down and I have seen some extreme conditions and scenarios... Also since I changed job my mileage has dropped from 14k annual to less than 5k so I'll be OK with OEM... Need to get tyres replaced there all cracking now, sad given the tyre still have tread on them.

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