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I have found I need to replace the fob Battery as its not always letting me wirelesely open the door. I think I have seen somewhere that there is a small slot in the fob where you can insert the metal key and twist to open the covers up - is this right. I don't want to apply too much force in doing this if its not the right way.

Also, I do most miles around town but on occasion use the motorway. I have used additives on occasion (BG44) which I do think helps but when is the best time to add this? Should it be applied before a long run so in effect it runs through the system virtually in one go or should it be added where I know the fuel in the tank will last a couple of weeks or so (short runs)?

Water pumps - is there an issue with these. I am just wondering if I should be expecting mine to go as the car is just over 81k miles - no issues as of yet and no indication it has been replaced in the past.

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You should get a warning alarm if the key fob Battery is low.

No idea about diesel addatives sounds like loads of hassle compared to the 250 just fuel and go:-)

Don't worry about the pump I just check fluid levels weekly, not sure if there is a low level alarm. As you have a diesel I would be more worried about the head gasket failing as this seems an issue with some cars?

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He has a 250 SE-L petrol.

Recently acquired my 250 SE-L so bought some batteries to replace the key fob ones...just in case...only then did I read that the car warns you if they're getting low ! Yes, it is my understanding that you use the metal key to gently prise the fob apart.

Haven't a clue about additives, never used them. I believe that modern fuels contain detergents and your occasional motorway spurt should give the engine a burn out. Worth driving on the paddles occasionally to take the revs higher and give the engine a blast.

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The key is designed to get you in the car when the fob fails. I wouldn't try opening the fob with the key just prize apart with something thin, its very easy to replace the Battery.

On the coolant pump check where do you inspect for leakage? Is there a tell tail hole like on my old Sierra! Now that was a class car, shame about the rust. ;-)

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The fob is designed to be opened with the end of the key. It fits perfectly.

Slight twist and the fob pops open.

Did exactly this in a customers kitchen the other day...her dodgy wireless doorbell had screwed my fob completely.

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I saw pink ish dried fluid near my pump, I had it replaced recently, not a very big job, indeed my coolant was not even low but better safe than sorry and not a terribly expensive job to get done. Just get the blue print part on eBay its been discussed here.

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Just so you know you can still drive the car with a dead fob, just place it above the push start button and press. The cars when new before being set up in the workshop only allow you to start them with the fob placed above the button, due to not being programmed with the car. Also if you have a manual and stall and the key is not with you, lets say your partner took it. As long as the start button light is red you can restart upto 2/3 times I believe.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi IS250 newbie,

If you car doesn't respond when you try to open it, I would suggest you to change the batteries ASAP. My car had the same issue and waited for the low Battery error to come on display. Eventually it did come up, but only when the Battery was almost flat, and the very next day after the error came up on screen, I was unable to open the car with the remote at all.

With regards to the BG44k, I bought the service pack and used the engine flush (BG109) and oil additive (BG MOA) and already feel the car much responsive an quieter.

I have just filled up the fuel tank and added the BG44K, I do mostly town driving and very short journeys. I've researched on the internet the best way of using it, and although there a few conflicting suggestions, the general consensus seems to be to use it on short journeys and try to keep it on the fuel tank as long as possible.

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Fuel additives for the IS250 aren't that useful.

The IS250 uses common rail direct injection. This uses enormous fuel pressure which results in a super fine fuel spray. Because the fuel pressure is so high, it is virtually impossible for an injector to block; even partially. I've used the Archoil 6400, which in all honesty, didn't really do much to the car's performance. It did, however, leave a thick deposit of iron on the spark plugs. My worry with using this type of fuel cleaner, is that it may contain metallic additives that build up on the spark plugs and cause them to fail. As the IS uses very expensive ultra long life spark plugs, regular use of metallic additives could theoretically shorten the life of the plugs.

The big problem with the IS250 is carbon build up on the intake valves - this is more to do with the engine oil (which gets sucked in through the crankcase breather system) and inadequate sealing of the piston rings (a design flaw). That said, the problem is MUCH less severe in the UK than in the US, because the valve timings are different due to different emissions standards. The valve timings in the US are much more likely to cause build up on the valves. There really isn't a way to fix the build up, except for using an oil designed to minimize it (A good quality synthetic oil meeting the API SN standard should be reasonably resistant to valve deposit build up).

I've used BG MOA to "fix" a rattly cam adjuster (another design flaw). I don't know what else, if anything, the MOA did, and I don't know why it fixed the cam adjuster. It is possible it was because the wrong oil went in at a service (independent Bosch service centre).

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