Ls400 Cuts Out

[lurch]

Yep, if I can do it so can you. Just remove the lower dashboard panel, make sure you locate all the screws/bolts. The small cover around the ignition switch itself where key inserts needs to be removed, just pops out then screw beneath there to remove. I pulled any electrical connector off the lower panel just to give me more room . The air ducked then pulls out a bit tight . Then there is two small wire connectors which slide on to the side of the switch you are going to remove, these slide off and fit back to new switch. One large connector to remove off switch then that leaves the two small phillips screws which hold switch in place. One screw not too bad to get too the other a bit tricky, you will need a small short screwdriver or a flexi drive so you can get on it. Once screws removed it will slide down and you can fit new one.

Just need to be flexible, lay on back and look up, a light is a good idea also.

Hope this of some help. Good pictures on this post from previous help I recieved.

[lurch]

Well been nearly four weeks since I replaced the ignition switch and after speaking with inlaws seems as though it has fixed the fault they had lived with for the last ten years so well happy. So if you find you have a similar problem give changing the ignition switch a try.

[Spottedlaurel]

I'll be looking to do this soon, now my Mk3 has passed its MoT. Before I order one in I'm going to see if the one my Camry spares car will fit.

[lurch]

Well been a few months now and still sorted. So if you get the odd cutting out replace the ignition switch less than half hour job from start to finish and less than £50 all in direct from Japan.

[Rodt]

Mine used to do that if I came to near stop after travelling for 30 minutes or more. Put a couple of cans of petrol treatment in the fuel tank over 2 fillups and no problem since.

[J4ck100]

Just about to order in the switch as my 1999 cuts out intermittently on long motorway journeys and it’s most annoying!

 

@lurch did replacing fix yours permanently then? Been a few years! 

[ambermarine]

Hi jack

Don't buy a new one yet, I took mine out after buying a new one from Lexus £90 and stripped it down it is a common fault on the 97- 2000 .

The cause is over indulgence of lubricating grease and this migrates onto the contact points and causes power cuts .

The switch is easy to strip down and clean the grease off .

The hardest part is getting at the damn thing.

[J4ck100]

Hi all,

Going to make a stab at cleaning my switch this weekend - bit nervous as this is a big job for me!!

Just to confirm, the switch in discussion is the switch highlighted in red on my attached picture (pinched with thanks from previous poster!) ?

So:

Step 1 - remove screws of lower dashboard (how many out of interest?

Step 2 - pull lower dashboard out inc clips

Step 3 - locate said switch

Step 4 - remove switch

Step 5 - clean switch

Step 6 - refit switch

Step 7 - beer time

 

Wish me luck!

 

Best,

jack

[ambermarine]

Go for it jack,Be careful when stripping the switch the springs may fly out,otherwise its a simple process .Where the screw fastening the switch to the car is very restrictive I used a Phillips bit held with a small pair of vice grips to rotate it from the side rather than the back.

And when you have it all back together and working properly you will glow in the fact you have saved £100.

There are approx 10 screws to remove on the lower dash and associated fixtures.

Remove  the steering column shroud first you need that out to get at some of the screws and the ignition switch shroud.

[J4ck100]

6 hours ago, ambermarine said:

Go for it Jack,Be careful when stripping the switch the springs may fly out,otherwise its a simple process .Where the screw fastening the switch to the car is very restrictive I used a Phillips bit held with a small pair of vice grips to rotate it from the side rather than the back.

And when you have it all back together and working properly you will glow in the fact you have saved £100.

There are approx 10 screws to remove on the lower dash and associated fixtures.

Remove  the steering column shroud first you need that out to get at some of the screws and the ignition switch shroud.

Blimey that was one hell of a job. 4 hours total for me, 30 mins spent getting the darned second screw of the switch out!

replaced everything back as I dismantled and whilst everything works, the switch does not feel quite as it used to. Instead of “crisp” feeling intervals between ON / POWER / START etc, there’s now a bit of a mushy feeling especially when turning off the car. In addition, the final twist between phase II and ignition fire feels shorter In twist  than it previously did. Not sure if I have re-assembled the switch incorrectly to cause this?

In any case I will mull over next steps, whether I order a replacement from amayama and pluck up the courage to do it all over again or leave as is for now and see how we go.

Thanks to all who have provided direction!

 

best 

jack

[J4ck100]

6 hours ago, ambermarine said:

Go for it Jack,Be careful when stripping the switch the springs may fly out,otherwise its a simple process .Where the screw fastening the switch to the car is very restrictive I used a Phillips bit held with a small pair of vice grips to rotate it from the side rather than the back.

And when you have it all back together and working properly you will glow in the fact you have saved £100.

There are approx 10 screws to remove on the lower dash and associated fixtures.

Remove  the steering column shroud first you need that out to get at some of the screws and the ignition switch shroud.

Quick question on the two ball bearings in the switch - should they sit at the bottom of the white plastic just acting as a buffer between the plastic and the black item with the springs?

 

thanks

[ambermarine]

16 hours ago, J4ck100 said:

Quick question on the two ball bearings in the switch - should they sit at the bottom of the white plastic just acting as a buffer between the plastic and the black item with the springs?

 

thanks

Hi jack

Just read this request and have this minute stripped down my spare switch and as you can see the ball bearings sit in the grooves on each side of the switch body this creates the switch resistance to the different positions.

[ambermarine]

The pics show the ball bearing locations in the centre hub and the other pics show the sequence and positions for reassembly.

[J4ck100]

1 hour ago, ambermarine said:

Hi Jack

Just read this request and have this minute stripped down my spare switch and as you can see the ball bearings sit in the grooves on each side of the switch body this creates the switch resistance to the different positions.

Thank you so much for this 

So I had put the ball bearings in the gully shown in your second picture but I had not taken care to place them in an exact location within 

Must the balls be placed in a specific location and should they sit nestled against the holes with springs in on the black unit once inserted in?

Thank you ever so much

jack

[ambermarine]

Yes the ball bearings go into the holes with a spring at the back of them the hub then slides down into the case with the ball bearings sliding into the two grooves at the side of the case,its a bit fiddly I found it easiest to insert one in situ at an angle then ease the other ball in as you push it down. I may have confused you on the pic showing out of focus balls sitting in the case that is were they land when you remove the hub, sorry.The balls should look like they are in photo 1 which is the hub without the copper contacts in place.The copper contacts can only go back one way and are keyed.

[J4ck100]

3 minutes ago, ambermarine said:

Yes

That’s where we’ve gone wrong! Now where’s my tool kit 🙂

What doesn’t kill you makes you stronger!

[J4ck100]

4 hours ago, ambermarine said:

Yes the ball bearings go into the holes with a spring at the back of them the hub then slides down into the case with the ball bearings sliding into the two grooves at the side of the case,its a bit fiddly I found it easiest to insert one in situ at an angle then ease the other ball in as you push it down. I may have confused you on the pic showing out of focus balls sitting in the case that is were they land when you remove the hub, sorry.The balls should look like they are in photo 1 which is the hub without the copper contacts in place.The copper contacts can only go back one way and are keyed.

Job done! 
 

@ambermarine I can’t begin to tell you how useful your pictures of the switch were. My hands are cut, my head is bashed (hit on surprisingly sharp metal bit of steering column!) but we made it!

One last thing - I can’t remember which screws / nuts went in the silver locations in pic attached for the coin holder / would you be so kind as to remind me of the type?

Thank you to all who have contributed to this thread - happy motoring!

[ambermarine]

Hi

To be honest I haven't got the foggiest try them all that's there and work with one that fits best.

[J4ck100]

1 hour ago, ambermarine said:

Hi

To be honest I haven't got the foggiest try them all that's there and work with one that fits best.

Weirdly none seemed to fit just right..

If you get a chance to pull your tray and take a look I’d be grateful - no worries if not. 

[Malc]

hope you haven't any left over though 

Malc

[ambermarine]

15 hours ago, J4ck100 said:

Weirdly none seemed to fit just right..

If you get a chance to pull your tray and take a look I’d be grateful - no worries if not. 

I took a look but the screws are obscured by the slide mechanism and only viewable if the lower panel is dropped down .

I can feel them and they are either one of the two shown in the pics which came from my screw stash that are the screws used in the dashboard of a LS400 I stripped.