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Posted

Having had new tyres fitted, and got rid of a fair bit of vibration issues, i now think that I have the dreaded anti-vibration pad issue.

Also not sure if it has been an issue for a while, and just got worse.

My question is, that if I have been driving around for a while with the vibration, have I done any more damage to the braking system.

Or is it just a case of taking it to the garage (possibly my local ATS), and getting them to reseat (and grease) the shims, or if they have to just add the shims.

Or am I likely to need a fair bit of things replaced.

Just want to have other opinions on what the garage are likely to charge me for before I take it along.

For about the last month or so there has been a gentle shussing sounds when braking, which indicates something loose/not quite right.

Just want to make sure I get the LS as smooth as a newt without being over-charged.

Just had a full ATF service (gear box flush and filter replaced) and that has made an amazing difference to how smooth the auto box now is.

Posted

Pete

Should not be expensive getting the brakes checked at any of the outlets that specialize in that category,stick with the car and ask to see the brake area when it as been stripped down they are duty bound to explain what the problem is before they do any work.

The problem could be a number of things but vibration and noise are usually signs of wear and breakdown of contact parts ,pads or discs, the shims are more to do with anti- squeal but can cause vibration if gungy.

Check to see if your hubs are getting hotter on one side than the other,this is the sign of a sticking caliper and can cause vibration as the disc will warp over time if the problem is not addressed.

Posted

there is a post here from adam evans regarding cleaning the discs - look for that - that might be useful to you

Posted

Thanks chaps, all good advice.

I think the disks are not warped, as no vibration when braking - as far as I can tell.

I have been checking the hubs for heat, my last 1/2 mile home is down a 200meter zig zag drop, so brakes on for that final half mile.

I will certainly make sure where ever I take it, I will ask to see the situ with the wheel off.

For the last 3 weeks I have been having the brake squeal situ for the first 5 minutes after car is standing, which is why shims and grease came to mind.

And I will search out Adam's post before I get off to a garage and make sure no cheapo chinese parts used.


Posted

I get pad squeal after being parked overnight (particularly if it's been wet). A couple of applications and they don't squeal again till next day. I've got plenty copaslip on pads, so I just live with it. I can't live with brake vibration though, and as I've said, once it starts it progresses to the point that only new discs sort it - although I suppose that skimming would work. I used Pagid discs with Ferodo pads at last change.

Pete

Posted

I always do as Adam has suggested when fitting new discs, but still the shake comes back after about 10,000 miles and gets worse till I change at around 20k. It seems that disc changes have been at this mileage since new judging by service records.

Pete

Posted

As per the previous posts, vibrations from the brake could be caused by a number of things.

I thought most decent garages ensured that they applied some copper grease to the brake pads when these get changed to ensure there's no kind of squeaking.

If you feel a judder through the braking pedal at any speeds, this is usually a sign of warped discs.

Pads are comparatively cheaper than discs but hard to say what is the cause in your case.

Another thing to keep in mind is that if the discs are warped, make sure that the wheel hub is fine too because if this isn't in good condition, this will also cause issues with braking too

Posted

Mark,

I recall seeing this post, and at the time whipped off the wheels, and the hubs were as clean as a whistle. At the time I had naff tyres, and it is only now that I have got a few other things sorted with the car that I find the judder is an annoyance and suspect pads/shims at fault.

A few years back I would have just got the brakes apart and sorted it myself, but not got the time.

Interesting to read comments on discs starting to warp after 10K, my last Lexus did show warping issues, but only after about 30K+ miles.

Posted

Must be a quality issue as all my discs are original at 86,000/nearly 21 years old and hardly and wear lip present.

Posted

I ran my LS400 for over 13 years and 200k miles of my own driving and whilst brake disc and pad wear is always going to be subject to the driver and their usage, during my ownership and usage I replaced my front and rear discs 3 times during my ownership at different times - I've never had to change both front and rear discs at the same time though. Front and rear pads were replaced more often and as per Lexus guidelines, when discs were replaced so too were pads.

My current LS430 has so far proved to be solid, stable and reassuring on braking and although the car is bigger and slightly more unwieldly compared to my LS400, it still feels very familar in terms of driving.

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

You need original discs and pads from dealers. They cost £150 for discs and £80 for pads. This will sort your problem.

Do not use any other manufacturer as you get the shimmy no matter which brand you use.

Unfortunately you will have to fork out the cost. Trust me I had exactly same problem for about 18 months.

  • Like 1

Posted

You need original discs and pads from dealers. They cost £150 for discs and £80 for pads. This will sort your problem.

Do not use any other manufacturer as you get the shimmy no matter which brand you use.

Unfortunately you will have to fork out the cost. Trust me I had exactly same problem for about 18 months.

Have spoken with ATS, and they use Pagid pads (I asked if they used Toyota).

Did some research on Pagid, and cannot see why they would be a problem, but any comments appreciated.

Seems like the issues with pads is the ability to warm up on contact to be able to brake, and then shed heat rather than keep the disk warm (which then causes warping).

As these are the rear brakes, I will see how it goes, and when the front ones need doing, will look at my options.

I tend not to go for any heavy breaking - unless forced to - tend to keep lots of distance from car in front, mainly to make sure I get best MPG but not having to brake / accelerate too often

Posted

Original discs/pads were just the same as Blueprint ones I fitted - well, lasted as long anyway. Pagid ones seem pretty good so far.

Pete

Posted

My experience as I used blueprint as I thought they were the same as Lexus and slightly cheaper. Trust me they are not the same. Lexus quality makes a huge difference.

In the past when I used blueprint the shimmy was still there straightaway. Even my indy was confused. Took it to dealers in Bootle and they said the brake discs and pads are non original. Bit the bullet and bought original and now no more shimmy or squeaking.

This is the way to go!!!

Posted

I replaced my front discs and pads with Pagid items after a pulsing/vibrating pedal. Brakes fine now but only got 4k on them. I read that the disc warping problem could stem from under use of the handbrake as the pads gripping one part of the disc sat at traffic lights could create a "hotspot"

Simon

Posted

Genuine parts only. I have tried a number of aftermarket parts. When took car to dealer in Bootle they said replace discs and pads as they spent hours testing shimmy and squeak and said suspension and brakes were fine but they stated the noise will always be there unless I use genuine parts.

Once I got these no more shaking and squeaking.

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