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Posted

Actually - while I think of it..

My latest judder issue is at about 70 also...but it's only in the steering...not through the pedal.

Doody, rincewind, gdh300 and chris - Your judder - steering wheel or brake pedal or both?

Posted

Mine was steering only.  I did read a detailed explanation somewhere recently about as cars get older and things wear they are all just that little bit of a contributing factor to something rearing its head.  So putting new discs on can cure the problem temporarily as it tips the balance back under the overall tolerance limits for the issue in question.  Then the discs age a bit and the overall tolerance levels of all the components drops past the baseline again.

 

Probably not explaining it well.

Posted
49 minutes ago, Ken_1 said:

My latest judder issue is at about 70 also...but it's only in the steering...not through the pedal.

Both for meKen, this time between 40 and 30mph with no problems at higher speed (unlike previously).

That said, coming back from site today on a stretch of motorway I could see the wheel wobbling at 60mph plus, which was new! In fact it was so noticeable at one stage I thought I must have a tyre going down. Then driving home this evening, that high speed vibration was gone again, so I might put that down to road surface (unlikely) or the offside caliper sticking again. I'm inclined to think that is It is indeed this as when I manoeuvre into reverse I get the familiar clunk from the pads. I can't wait to have the new caliper fitted next week!

Posted

My steering was shaking at almost exactly 60mph and braking from anything above 60mph would result in violent steering shake however the brake pedal itself was smooth. I accidentally hit a rather large pothole the other day at around 45mph and strangely enough that has half cured my issue. The steering doesn't really shake much at 60mph and braking above 60mph is nowhere near as violent as it was before. 

I did change the NSF calliper a week ago without replacing the discs again but after changing the calliper there was no difference to the drive until hitting this pothole. Now I need to change the tyres but don't really want to remove the wheels for fear of the issue coming back with a vengeance. 

Posted

Yes Ken, infact I changed everything shown in the diagram in one go, bought as a complete second hand unit from eBay for about £35. Before this I wasted loads of time and money changing Hub and wheel bearing separately (not to mention loads of other bits) which were not the route of the problem. When I bought the car, the spare wheel was totally buckled so in hind sight this was a clue! Reckon that car must have gone down big pot hole that had damaged/bent the actual steering knuckle itself in some way. Since changing the complete unit I have had no problems with braking/wobble at all, that must be well over 10k by now. I obviously cannot state that replacing this is going to be the cure for everyone else but it worked 100% for me.  

I

 


Posted

Thanks everyone.

What is the story with this forum, can't go back to the previous pages on this topic...can someone contact admin about this or am I the only one having this issue?

Posted

Ken_1, when the page doesn't load, select the url and press enter forcing the page to re-load. I have the same issue and found this works.

Posted

Thanks lads!works!

And thanks Chris for all the info.

I'm wondering if you were maybe lucky!:wink3: Perhaps you had the same symptoms as all the rest of us but a different underlying issue? What do you think?

I'm tempted to go down the same route as you and go second hand full unit and a new disc. I've MOT in a few weeks and decide after that.

Sick of spending time and £ on this.

Posted
On 2/10/2016 at 9:03 PM, Ken_1 said:

Actually - while I think of it..

My latest judder issue is at about 70 also...but it's only in the steering...not through the pedal.

Doody, rincewind, gdh300 and chris - Your judder - steering wheel or brake pedal or both?

I've got the same problem with the steering judder/vibrating once the discs have warmed up roughly between 50-70mph. Turns out the piston is getting stuck and over heating the disc and pads.  

Go for a 5 mile drive and just place your hand close to the disc's. One side will be hotter than the other. The hotter side will be the problematic side.

I've replaced the disc's, pads, checked the sliders and everything is fine only thing left is the piston itself. I've got a £25 recon kit (New pistons and seals etc...) this should fix the problem.  

While you have the wheel off try spinning the wheel to see if it catches at all after letting it stand for a little bit. Also once the disc is off spin the hub while using a jack to gently touch the edge of the hub and see if that catches. If that catches new hub if that's fine then disc's and slider/pistons for the caliper.

Posted

Ken, if like me, you have changed and checked everything else and still no joy then it's got to be worth a go. Buy the complete unit from eBay (prices vary) which includes bearing and hub, Okay, you are taking a chance that the bearing is not knackered but still worth the gamble.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Hi Chris, got a complete hub assembly. Will give it a go soon. Do I need to retrack after swapping it out?


Posted

Hi Ken, have never had my car tracked at all, maybe it's about time I did as have just had the drivers side hub assembly replaced with a second hand one as the wheel bearing had gone again (only 6 months after garage replaced it for the 3rd bloody time!) so a used hub with original bearing seemed the way to go as garage clearly feckin up somewhere. Also just bought new Goodyear Eagle 3 tyres to go on as soon as I get a chance to have the wheels refurbed again (hopefully this week) just cant decide to get done in sparkle silver again or go for black with some sort of colour in it...what you reckon? (18inch Areo) 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Hi Chris, man you have bad luck with those bearings!

Black look good. What colour is  you car?

I have the hub, disc and pad.

I changed the back discs and pads (originals with > 100k miles on them) last week. They were shot when i took them off and inspected them.

New ones have made a difference. I'm happier than expected with that change.I'll let them bed in for a few weeks and decide on tackling the front then.

If the judder is as good as any 13yr old car I might just leave as is for a bit.

I'll keep you posted.

 

Posted

Yeah, the garage MUST be feckin up somehow putting them in, maybe not correct torque?? dunno, I just gave up in the end!

I know that some people on here don't like them, but I use Greenstuff pads all round, expensive but there is a noticeable difference when braking hard.

My is300 is Platinum with the original full Areo body kit and 18inch wheels. Had the wheels powder coated a couple of years ago but have had them straightend so many times that need doing again. Been to a few known places that refurb alloys but not happy with the colours they have ie, really sparkling silver. Found a guy in Kent who is going to do a "special" paint/laquer job for me, either sparkle silver with silver metal flake in it, or his "disco" effect, which is sparkle silver with different coloured sparkles in it! Gonna meet him again tomorrow to see the samples and hopefully choose one... 

 

Posted

Hi Chris. The hub is in, along with a disc and pad (both pageid) on that side only.I had the flange face spotless and the bearing is good. Caliper pistons and sliders are free as a whistle.I can do no more, just wait and see.

I'll know more in ~2k miles. Whatever happens, I'm done with anymore time or money on this!

Right now, it's bliss, a whopping 20 miles done:wink3:

I'll keep ye posted.

Posted

Well that is it Ken! If this doesn't cure it then I have no idea. Reckon that you will know in about 500 miles mate.

Posted

Well, got my wheels back after being fully refurbed. If there is no sun on them, they look pretty normal...but when sun hits them they go mad! The silver metal flake really sparkles and you can see different colours of glitter all over. Was good to find someone who was prepared to listen to what the customer wanted and do a really good job, will always use this fella from now on. I was prepared to pay over the top for this work but he only charged £45 per wheel (18 inch) and £5 per centre cap so £200 total. Wheels were shot blasted, refurbed and powder coated etc, but he doesn't fit tyres or balance which was no problem as had new Goodyears to go on anyway. Only problem is that they look so damn good I don't want to drive it down to London, have left it on drive and used a different car today...how sad is that! 

  • 5 months later...
Posted

Been a while but some good news to report. After umpteen disc changes, s/h hub flange assemblies fitted, new hubs fitted with no joy- the judder would be back after 1000 miles. At its last MOT I put on new Michelins all round replacing the winters that were on and I had just been running on year round. I thought while I was at it I may as well put a new pair of discs on. Well over 2000 miles on from that and no judder (touch wood). Any ideas what's going on with that?

Posted

I fixed my issue by replacing the caliper's, pads and discs, with Pagid spec all round, got the alloy wheels straightened as there was a slight buckle in all of them and new Uniroyal's all round. 

It's still not quite perfect but have given up on spending any more money on it now. 

Posted
3 hours ago, Doody said:

Been a while but some good news to report. After umpteen disc changes, s/h hub flange assemblies fitted, new hubs fitted with no joy- the judder would be back after 1000 miles. At its last MOT I put on new Michelins all round replacing the winters that were on and I had just been running on year round. I thought while I was at it I may as well put a new pair of discs on. Well over 2000 miles on from that and no judder (touch wood). Any ideas what's going on with that?

No idea mate! Problem was still there with 2 different sets of tyres on my car, as mentioned before, the cure for mine was to change the complete hub assembly for a s/h one from fleabay. Obviously it's just pot luck and you may have found the cure for your car as would have thought the problem would show itself in less than 1000 miles..

Posted

The notifications on this thread prompted me to provide my own update. I've done something like 10k since my new front offside carrier, new front calipers (nearside and offside) and front discs skim. All seemed well for a few thousand miles then a wobble came back during high speed braking. Disappointed was not the word. But like a few here, I really couldn't be bothered throwing any more money and time at it. So I left it, and now it appears to have gone again! I am trying really hard to brake heavily on every trip as I'm aware I am very gentle on my brakes (I had problems with seized callipers ion two previous cars), but that's all that's changed. My discs have had their last skim, so next time it will be new ones. I'll see how it goes!

  • 9 months later...
Posted

Update from me too; I left my problem alone as it appeared to be a stuck slider pin (mild corrosion in the bore) which I cleaned out and used the correct lithium grease on this time- no more sticking sliders after 500 miles. The juddering was very minimal so I left it alone.

I did 600 miles last week, two long trips- and horrible juddering at 60-70mph when braking, plus a very slight wobble now and then from the steering wheel when rolling. I have a dial indicator coming tomorrow so I'll check runout on everything.

Anyone know how to verify a brake hose before dumping £30 per side on them, just in case?

Posted

Hi Phil, I bought new Lexus hoses for mine as mechanic reckoned it was worth a go, don't bother mate!! No real way to check them unless you want to take them off and blow through them, but wouldn't bother, the problem is hub related.

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