Steering Knock

adnewton · September 9, 2014

My CT has developed a steering knock recently. I took it into dealer who advised there is currently a bulletin out to change intermediate column shaft to resolve issue.

It will not be a recall or advised it needs doing unless your car exhibits the issue. Watch out for it.

Also, my washer jet is blocked - anyone have any tips on how to clear without stripping car down?

PWOOD · September 24, 2014

Can you explain the knock in more detail, like when it happens most is when going from lock to lock or when going over bumps.

Re the washer jet if you can pull the tube off the washer end try fitting another tube or straw over the front top part and blow hard with some water in your mouth.

KDS · September 25, 2014

Re washer . Try inserting a fine sewing needle into the nozzle thread eye end and twist to break up the blockage then operate the washer to flush out the debris

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adnewton · September 25, 2014

Steering knock can be detected just by moving steering wheel side to side in a steady motion. You can feel knock through steering wheel. If you are unsure, take it in and tell them you are aware of a bulletin regarding this issue.

I had mine replaced last week and it resolved knock. Also had a 14my CT as a loan over weekend. Nice and improved but hated the Sat Nav with a passion.

Washer jet - I usually do it with a needle but wasn't sure if this would damage jet as its a spray opposed to jet.

Cheers.

Wass · September 25, 2014

"I had mine replaced last week and it resolved knock. Also had a 14my CT as a loan over weekend. Nice and improved but hated the Sat Nav with a passion."

Know what you mean about the Sat Nav.... Never had a car with a Sat Nav which suited me better than a stand alone Garmin. The world would be a dull place if we all liked the same things.

Checked the steering... 38K miles and still ok but thanks for the heads up.

Wass · January 23, 2016

Steering has developed the knock at 52.000 miles. I checked the intermediate shaft as suggested by Adam and the problem seems to be that the splined connection between the steering column and the intermediate shaft UJ has worked loose. The reason for this appears to be that during assembly they used something similar to a low tensile body bolt as a pinch bolt on the steering shaft assembly. The low tensile bolt has stretched slightly with use allowing the spline to float slightly. I simply replaced the low tensile bolt with a high tensile bolt, torqued it up to 20ftpnds and the problem was solved. No more knocking and a solid, non floating connection next to the UJ. The intermediate shaft UJ joint and the steering column shaft show no wear whatsoever.

MJE_CT · October 16, 2017

Hi - new to the forum and my first post...

My 2011 CT also seems to have developed this knock over the past couple of weeks. Dealer says it’s the shaft and wants thick end of £700 to replace. Mentioned the bolt and he said he’d never heard of that as the cause.

Any advice on what I should do next, as I could do without a £700 bill!

stormchaser · October 18, 2017

My 2011 is still ok ( fingers crossed) but I’d definitely try this inexpensive option first.

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Wass · October 18, 2017

On 10/16/2017 at 3:26 PM, MJE_CT said:

Hi - new to the forum and my first post...

My 2011 CT also seems to have developed this knock over the past couple of weeks. Dealer says it’s the shaft and wants thick end of £700 to replace. Mentioned the bolt and he said he’d never heard of that as the cause.

Any advice on what I should do next, as I could do without a £700 bill!

I guess that the reason why the dealers have "never heard of that as the cause" is because intermediate shaft replacement costs £700 and the bolt I replaced cost me nothing. However, my 2011 CT had a low tensile bolt in it which i replaced with a high tensile bolt. There hasn't been a clunk since. If you kneel by the side of the car with the drivers door open, you can feel the top joint between the steering column and the top clamp of the intermediate shaft without having to remove any covers , or wires etc. If you subsequently sit in the car and turn the shaft to the right position, you can gain access to remove the bolt and replace it with another and torque it up. My £700 saving fix took me 15 minutes using simple tools. Most of those minutes were spent finding a new bolt of suitable size, length and tensile rating ( head stamped 8.8 as opposed to original bolt not stamped at all) The car has done 70000 now and still has no knocking from the intermediate shaft. The choice is yours.

I cant see any modern independant mechanic wanting to own up to such a simple fix when there's the potential for a week or two's wages in the balance but there again, I really don't trust modern day fitters anyway. 50% of what I have been told about my Lexus by professionals isn't strictly correct but does somewhat coincidentally err on the side of profit.

stormchaser · October 19, 2017

I don’t know who would pay that amount of money for this shaft.

Seriously overpriced when you look at the US price for it.

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MJE_CT · October 20, 2017

Looking into the whole bolt thing over the weekend but, Jesus ***** (excuse my blasphemy) that price difference is an eye opener!

MJE_CT · October 20, 2017

Ha - they redacted Chris with a t on the end!

MJE_CT · October 22, 2017

On 18/10/2017 at 7:02 PM, Wass said:

I guess that the reason why the dealers have "never heard of that as the cause" is because intermediate shaft replacement costs £700 and the bolt I replaced cost me nothing. However, my 2011 CT had a low tensile bolt in it which i replaced with a high tensile bolt. There hasn't been a clunk since. If you kneel by the side of the car with the drivers door open, you can feel the top joint between the steering column and the top clamp of the intermediate shaft without having to remove any covers , or wires etc. If you subsequently sit in the car and turn the shaft to the right position, you can gain access to remove the bolt and replace it with another and torque it up. My £700 saving fix took me 15 minutes using simple tools. Most of those minutes were spent finding a new bolt of suitable size, length and tensile rating ( head stamped 8.8 as opposed to original bolt not stamped at all) The car has done 70000 now and still has no knocking from the intermediate shaft. The choice is yours.

I cant see any modern independant mechanic wanting to own up to such a simple fix when there's the potential for a week or two's wages in the balance but there again, I really don't trust modern day fitters anyway. 50% of what I have been told about my Lexus by professionals isn't strictly correct but does somewhat coincidentally err on the side of profit.

You, sir, are my new personal hero, and if we were both that way inclined i’d offer to marry you.

I gave your very specific instructions to a small independent garage that i’ve used for years (I’m not so hot with the whole mending it yourself thing - just ask the missus!) Within 5 minutes the old bolt was out and a suitable replacement installed. Steering feels brand new.

As a long time customer the cost was ... zip, zero, nothing.

I am a very happy chap today.

stormchaser · October 22, 2017

Excellent result. Glad all is well again.

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Wass · October 25, 2017

On 10/22/2017 at 2:25 AM, MJE_CT said:

You, sir, are my new personal hero, and if we were both that way inclined i’d offer to marry you.

I gave your very specific instructions to a small independent garage that i’ve used for years (I’m not so hot with the whole mending it yourself thing - just ask the missus!) Within 5 minutes the old bolt was out and a suitable replacement installed. Steering feels brand new.

As a long time customer the cost was ... zip, zero, nothing.

I am a very happy chap today.

I already have a wife and her name is not Michael. Takes an average Joe quite a few weeks to actually save up £700 pounds to spend doesn't it? That's why it makes me feel quite ticked off to hear about professionals taking advantage of their position. These people just don't understand what a great proportion of a persons annual disposable income they are asking for when they make such slapdash repair estimates.

I am very pleased that my input saved you a wedge, now go out and spoil the wife and bank the change!

-Rich- · December 10, 2017

The missus has been saying for a while she can hear a knock when going over bumps but I've never heard it myself until yesterday when I was driving over a gravel track. I had previously asked my trusted garage to have a look but they check the drop links etc which is what usually causes such a noise.

After hearing the noise yesterday I decided to turn the steering wheel side to side and it made a similar clunking noise. Does it sound like it's this bolt? The car is on 70k miles.

What size bolt is needed to replace it?

Wass · December 10, 2017

5 hours ago, -Rich- said:

The missus has been saying for a while she can hear a knock when going over bumps but I've never heard it myself until yesterday when I was driving over a gravel track. I had previously asked my trusted garage to have a look but they check the drop links etc which is what usually causes such a noise.

After hearing the noise yesterday I decided to turn the steering wheel side to side and it made a similar clunking noise. Does it sound like it's this bolt? The car is on 70k miles.

What size bolt is needed to replace it?

I dont remember. Easy to find out, take the bolt out and measure it. put it back in, tighten it, then buy a high tensile replacement. I think it was M8 but I can't recall the length.

MJE_CT · December 12, 2017

Sounds exactly the same issue I had. Bolt was an M8, possibly 30mm but can’t be certain (mechanic I used had a suitable one lying around).

-Rich- · January 5, 2018

I just want to check this is the right bolt, it's stamped 11 but Wass said it's unstamped? If I hold the shaft and turn the steering wheel I can feel a knock through the column.

Shd995 · January 5, 2018

anybody know about this steering knock? i hear a knock on full locks when turning wheel. have had an issue with the steering wheel resting towards the left. had tracckng done twice and problem seems to persist. also feel alot of feedback from steering wheel from road bumps.thought this was normal but now starting to think its all related to the issue in this post.

Wass · January 7, 2018

On 1/5/2018 at 4:31 PM, -Rich- said:

I just want to check this is the right bolt, it's stamped 11 but Wass said it's unstamped? If I hold the shaft and turn the steering wheel I can feel a knock through the column.

The bolt in my car was unstamped. But there a bolt like that on U.Js both ends of the shaft. Check both ends.

Wass · January 7, 2018

On 1/5/2018 at 11:30 PM, Shd995 said:

anybody know about this steering knock? i hear a knock on full locks when turning wheel. have had an issue with the steering wheel resting towards the left. had tracckng done twice and problem seems to persist. also feel alot of feedback from steering wheel from road bumps.thought this was normal but now starting to think its all related to the issue in this post.

Get onto your hands and knees and check the intermediate shaft as I described earlier in this thread. Then you will know as much as everyone else.

-Rich- · January 11, 2018

Is the other end of the shaft behind the brake pedal? How is that cover removed? I also noticed it's got a bit of surface rust on it, anyone else got that?

Wass · January 14, 2018

Surface rust wasn't on mine.. must be an optional extra :)

-Rich- · January 18, 2018

Hopefully it's just condensation that caused it then. I'll clean it off and see if it comes back. I assume there isn't a cover that's missing from the shaft?

With the bolt I put a socket on the top one and it didn't feel loose but I applied a little pressure to nip it up. We went away afterwards to Wales so lots of perfect roads to test it out. Over 600 miles later and the knocking has completely gone. The steering also feels a little tighter so happy days