Front Caliper And Disc Replacement / Removal

is200 Newbie · June 15, 2014

My recent MOT highlighted a brake imbalance on the front brakes. I since greased the pins which were sticky but noticed the rubber boot seal around the piston on the calliper had a big hole in it so rather than mess about with a brake seal kit I replaced the full calliper unit.

The process of removing the calliper assembly and disc is below...

Obviously make this safe as possible - chock the wheels before starting etc...

I DONT KNOW WHY BUT THE PICTURES ATTACHED HAVE COME OUT AS THUMBNAILS WITH THE FULL PICTURES AT THE END OF THIS POST BUT CLICKING ON THE PICTURES ENLARGES THEM

1/ Remove the wheel - I tend to remove the security nut first as if left to last there is a lot of pressure on it and you could ruin the locking key or the nut itself making it hard to get off.

Picture below is of the brake wheel assembly with wheel removed.

2/ Probably should have mentioned this first but the part number is stamped on the calliper unit as shown in the picture below...

3/ The picture below shows the two bolts you need to take out to remove the calliper assembly from the carrier - you will need a size 14 socket to do this. Store these in a safe place as if they are lost its a full calliper replacement.

4/ The picture below is of the calliper assembly with the two securing bolts removed - the calliper can now easily be pulled from the assembly.

5/ The picture below is of the calliper - removed from the assembly and placed on some form of support (plant pot / brick etc - something with enough height to stop the brake hose from stretching) I have used a box, as in the picture.

6/ The next picture is of the two bolts that need to be removed in order to take the carrier out. Remove the brake pads first and clean up the shims, remembering to add new copper grease to the pads to stop them squealing. Use a size 17 socket to remove the bolts on the assembly to remove it.

7/ With the carrier now off, you can remove the slide pins - (you can remove them with the carrier secured to the brake assembly) its up to you how / when at what point you remove them. Note the rubber washer on the top slide pin - I had read that this prevents brake rattle but a lot of the IS 200 owners when greasing the pins take this off. The rubber washer tends to only last a few cleans, the rubber tends to stretch and this is part of the cause of a sticking calliper as it creates a hell of a vacuum in the slide pin "tube" and stops working efficiently. Removal of this has no effect to the operation. I have purchased these in the past and i think? they were around £12 each..!

Its a good idea now to clean up the pins at this point - they should be shiny and you can safely clean these up with a wire brush. Also if re-using them, check the rubber boot on the carrier secures itself quite tightly around the recess in the pin. You will find the boot stretches also and in time it just is not tight enough to hold onto the pin and as a result of this it lets dirt and water into the slide pin tube.

8/ The picture below is of the disc with the calliper assembly removed. Check the disc for grooving and rust. I had changed mine a while ago so i know this one is fine.

9/ Using two bolts (i don't know the size), shown in the picture, screw these in to remove the disc from the hub. The picture shows the disc loose from the hub.

10/ The picture below shows the hub before a clean. It is important that the face of the hub is spotless - no rust / dirt etc as this can stop the disc from mating cleanly and will cause brake judder. Clean it with sandpaper / wire brush and clean afterwards - i use an IPA solution but any cleaning solution will do.

11/ The picture below is of the inner face of the disc - again, as above, its important to get this clean. Clean as above for the hub.

12/ The picture below is of both faces cleaned

13/ Re-Installing the disc - use 3 of the wheel nuts to tighten the disc to the hub. Secure as you would when tightening your wheel (tightening opposites) When you think its tightened spin the disc - it should travel straight - if there's a "wobble" in the spin then take off and see if you have cleaned it properly or tightened it correctly.

14/ Picture shows the carrier unit with the installed old ancillaries from the old carrier - these only need putting on the new unit if it does not have them. They are only held on with two tabs and just ease off with a small flathead screwdriver and are pushed onto the new unit. They guide the brake pads into the unit.

15/ Install the carrier back onto the assembly - a size 17 socket is required, (same as for removal). Open the fluid reservoir in the engine bay. Next locate the brake hose union on the calliper and remove from the old one (size 14 socket) and place onto the new one. Unscrew the union bolt - In doing this there will be a few drops of brake fluid and if you are quick in swapping them over there will be minimal fluid loss. It will not spray out as its not under pressure. The picture shows the union in the new calliper. There is a locating pin attached to the union bolt which makes re-insertion fool proof?!

Picture shows the old bolt and the locating pin and the union installed into the new calliper.

16/ After changing the union over wipe away any excess fluid and re-install the calliper onto the assembly - you will need to re-install the brake pads before doing this (remember to add the copper grease between the shims before putting the pads back in the assembly)

You will now have the calliper fully installed. Next job will be to bleed the brakes and you will need two people to do this - one pumping the brake pedal and the other undoing and tightening the bleed nipple. You will find that there is not a lot of fluid required as you will only be filling up the calliper piston reservoir and the few drops that would have been lost. Bleed it until no more air comes out.

Once happy (brake pedal should be hard - it will soften a bit when the cars started - put the wheel back on and take it for a short run to see if there are any issues. When back from the run check for any leaks (leaks should have been evident at the bleeding process)

Enjoy your new brakes.

is200 Newbie · June 15, 2014

The ancillaries that may need removing from the old carrier to the new are shown below

Exdee · June 15, 2014

Good stuff, it is very elaborate.

Torque specs are as follows for those who are anal about these:

- Carrier to Hub - 79 Nm

- Caliper to Carrier - 34 Nm

Installing a new caliper is also a good opportunity to paint it. Otherwise, it won't be long before it starts to look like the previous one.

toffee_pie · June 15, 2014

good job that.

james250 · June 16, 2014

Great writeup. One thing to note, i completely stopped using copper grease. Copper grease helps initially but within no time squeals return and makes everything very messy. It's also known to cause ABS malfunctions. Instead i use pagid cera-tec, it's so much better and squeals dont come back between services. When i do my oil change, i clean the brakes and re-lube it. I also re-lube the slider pins.

Does anyone notice that the bolts that thread into the slider pins which hold the caliper in place start spinning and you basically have to hold the slider pin with an open spanner while tightening the caliper bolt?

is200 Newbie · June 17, 2014

James ... Never had the spinning bolt (yet)

Not had the problems with the copper slip but I agree that its very messy.

I have actually ordered a tube of the proper slide pin grease from Lexus - expansive at £40 per tube but I think it will be worth it compared to the replacement of the callipers if they go again - what am I saying ... should be When they go again !!

I think the grease I am using is reacting with the rubber boots as they seem to lose their shape a bit and don't secure well onto the recesses of the pins and I can only put this down to the grease , also the rubber top pin slide washer fitted to the pin does the same.

I am currently using Castrol LM grease to lubricate these.

is200 Newbie · June 21, 2014

Just received a tube of the grease that Lexus use to lubricate the slide pins - its not actually known as Lithium Soap Grease but Rubber Grease - Part number 08887-83010 - from Lexus Birmingham for £10 per tube.

Tube is the size of a tooth paste one so it will last a good 4 to 5 years if greasing all 4 corners of the car. A good buy. It states its good for 1 year after the production date .... is this the case?

Ishaq · July 3, 2014

Hi Newbie,

What brake fluid did you use?

is this okay for IS250: FMVSS 116 DOT 4 - SAE 1703 - ISO 4925

http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/car-accessories/engine-oils-and-car-fluids/auxiliary-fluids/brake-fluid/?524770271&0&cc5_179

Thank you

aly-g · July 3, 2014

Ishaq that fluid will be fine, so did you have to get new calipers ?....

Allan

Ishaq · July 3, 2014

Allan the mech said the calipers should be fine otherwise I would get heat and it would also be very stiff to drive.

I will receive my disc, pads and grease tomorrow and will be attempting to change, service and bleed my entire brake system.

I really do hope that the calipers are fine.

One questions thou...how comes lexus sell calipers for £70 while there are others on eBay for like £250-£300

aly-g · July 3, 2014

My calipers cost £99.00 each from lex Sheffield where did you see them for £70.00, the calipers from Lexus could be old stock they want to clear, remember the is250 is an older model now and you will find the front calipers are more expensive , if you have problems removing the discs from the hubs there are two threaded bolts holes in the discs so you can screw bolts into the discs to pull the disc off the hub..... Hope it all goes well with the repair , mine was a lot easier than I thought it would be , if you do get any problems just give a shout .....

Allan

Ishaq · July 3, 2014

Allan they are £70 at Lexus Edingburugh throu their eBay store. You need to email Laurie and he will list it and then email eBay item number. Nice service and next day delivery.

This is the first time something big has happened to my Lexus...Allan once fixed will it happen again as I don't believe this happens with BMW or Audi

aly-g · July 4, 2014

The brakes are consumable part of the car, like battery's and exhaust, depends how many miles you drive and who services your car, lubricating the slide pins is not part of the service only inspecting them ? Advice on the forum is check and lubricate minimum of 18 months, I would make that at least yearly just before MOT time.......I purchased my discs from Edinburgh pity I didn't know the price of the calipers then I could have saved myself £40.00 !! I got mine from Sheffield. ... Ishaq make sure you chock the wheels when working on the car ....good luck......

Allan

jackcramerr · October 18, 2015

When changing brake pads do we need to change the squeal plates (I don't know what they are called... I am referring to the two metal shim on the outer side of each pad.

Do these shims comes with the brake pads from lexus or does one need to purchase them separately ?

johnatg · October 18, 2015

You can reuse the old ones if they are OK. I don't know if new ones are included with Lexus pads - they are not included with aftermarket brands such as EBC.

Some types have a sort of rubbery coating on the back of the pads - this is to substitute for the shims. Or you can get a spray can of anti-squeal coating - can't just remember the brand/details.

The workshop manual says that the shims should be replaced.

Your choice!

Ishaq · October 20, 2015

You should re-use the shims when replacing with genuine brakes as shims are not included.

Also some after market pads have a raised surface or a rubber sticker that come with them to install.

If you ever need to buy shims then they are £40-£50 so not cheap as I have found.

jackcramerr · October 20, 2015

thanks John, Ishaq jan.

Yes they don't come with shims. lexus eBay quoted 26.04 for the rear shims.

I will be reusing it depending on if they are not damaged. Going with original brake pads. I will do them later this year or next but wanted to gather everything I need.

jackcramerr · October 24, 2015

The other thing that is bugging me is OE vs Bermbo vs PAIGD (German) vs Eicher( Euro car part and made in Scotland? ) vs Textar.

Now OE is 47ish and all the other are near half the price or cheaper at least. I don't want to feel getting ripped off so question is, Is Lexus OE 0446622190 better than any of the others? I tend to use original service parts and fit with my hands when I can as I appreciate quality. I know engineering companies tend to buy off the shelf stuff then test them then make their own proc spec and ask the manufacturer to produce them with their part number. Sometimes there are a few changes they make during the process and feedback from the field (car service in this instance).

But sometimes the off the shelf is just perfect and the engineering company approves it as is. Not sure if I am delivering my view point...

Ishaq · October 24, 2015

Guys if I buy after market calipers say from ECP will it be better or will it still sieze

jackcramerr · October 24, 2015

Ishaq jan My view is the design is just wrong. the water can seep through the rubber covers. Unless it's after market with a new design or OE original but with updates, the one I saw on 2009 and spent hours Un sizing, I know it will happen again.

I think ECP doesn't have non OE calipers. Or do they?

johnatg · October 24, 2015

The other thing that is bugging me is OE vs Bermbo vs PAIGD (German) vs Eicher( Euro car part and made in Scotland? ) vs Textar.

Now OE is 47ish and all the other are near half the price or cheaper at least. I don't want to feel getting ripped off so question is, Is Lexus OE 0446622190 better than any of the others? I tend to use original service parts and fit with my hands when I can as I appreciate quality. I know engineering companies tend to buy off the shelf stuff then test them then make their own proc spec and ask the manufacturer to produce them with their part number. Sometimes there are a few changes they make during the process and feedback from the field (car service in this instance).

But sometimes the off the shelf is just perfect and the engineering company approves it as is. Not sure if I am delivering my view point...

brake pads are specced by 'Regulation 90', which means pads must perform to at least 90% of oem (whatever that means). There's no such thing as a bad pad these days. Rear pads do relatively little and all those you mention will be fine.

You can do better than oem for front pads though.

Refurbished calipers are effectively just the same as oem and will perform (and seize) just the same. Anyway its mostly the pins which corrode and seize - grease and the rubber boots are the most important factors there.

Sent from my MotoE2(4G-LTE) using Tapatalk

Ishaq · October 24, 2015

I think mine might me seizing again as I feel something holding me back and not as nippy. Had a look at ECP

http://www.eurocarparts.com/mobile/ecp/c/Lexus_IS_2.5_2006/p/car-parts/brakes/brake-hydraulics/brake-caliper/?13382304J&1&e3c7e8895541895afd91347755400e38964d6409&000048

So frustrating and this really lets the car down.

jackcramerr · October 24, 2015

Ishaq bai Those are refurbished calipers. you will get the same stuff you have on your car now. They will seize again. Like John said, getting them greased is the only way. I will check mine soon as I wish to see if ceratec grease I used from ECP made anything better and because I need to change the pads. Been maybe 5 months when I rebuilt the caliper. But the design is pish poor. The rubber boot is just sitting there without any lip anywhere to hold it in place and help seal. That's just basics and I bet a plumber can come up with a better design.