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Quick Question Regarding The Aerial Fittings


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Hi Everyone,

My aerial has stopped going up and down so I'm going to fix it. I've read some helpful guides on here and I've got the replacement aerial from eBay. So far so good.

I'm sure this is a silly question, but I don't want to bugger this up, so how do you remove the nut/cover thing at the bottom of the aerial itself please? Is it a matter of putting a screwdriver tip up against the fitting and tapping? Or is there another method or a special tool? Here's a picture of what it looks like:

aerial.JPG

Thanks for your help!

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there might be a better way round it but I normally use a straight screw driver and hammer - there is a risk that the screwdriver will slip and damage the paint work but if you start with light taps just to get the screw moving then once its loose enough you can undo it by hand.

once the nut is removed - switch on the ignition and the mast will come out. - place the new mast cable in the hold with the cogs facing the front of the car and then ask someone to turn the ignition off - be ready to guide the mast into the hole as the cable retracts.

IF you find when removing the mast it does not fully come out and is stuck then once the motor stops grab the cable firmly and hold it it tight and switch the ignition off (dont let the cable retract just hold it firm) The motor will eventually switch off - then switch on the ignition back on and the mast will come out.

hope this helps

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The correct way to remove the nut is to grasp two straight edge screwdrivers one in each hand as near to the nut as possible, place them in the slots so the screwdrivers are opposite each other and horizontal to the nut and apply equal leverage pressure to the nut on both screwdrivers whilst turning anti -clockwise.this way you avoid the risk of them slipping into the bodywork and you have more control of what movement and torque there is applied to the nut.

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The correct way to remove the nut is to grasp two straight edge screwdrivers one in each hand as near to the nut as possible, place them in the slots so the screwdrivers are opposite each other and horizontal to the nut and apply equal leverage pressure to the nut on both screwdrivers whilst turning anti -clockwise.this way you avoid the risk of them slipping into the bodywork and you have more control of what movement and torque there is applied to the nut.

I tried this on my Mk2, and nearly gouged the paintwork where it did slip.

Best to try and use the right tool.

But I think you can only by them in sets.

see the link http://www.tizaro.com/product/FL123E/kd-tools-kds3915-antenna-removal-socket-set-pieces?utm_source=google&utm_medium=merchantUK&utm_term=fleet-and-vehicle-maintenance--automotive-diagnostic-kits&utm_content=general-purpose-kits&utm_campaign=kd-tools-kds3915-antenna-removal-socket-set-pieces&gadvt_matchtype=&gadvt_network=g&gadvt_creative=33798040519&gadvt_keyword=&gadvt_adposition=1o2&gadvt_adtype=pla&gclid=CKyRpfGyvroCFYbJtAodfWMALg

Not cheap which is why I never bought a set

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If you apply the method I have prescibed, grasping the screwdrivers as,well as the nut it can't slip.because all the force is horizontal and aimed at the centre of the nut.I had mine off a couple of times on the Mark 1 and never had a problem.

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Job done and major sense of achievement given that the plastic cabling had snapped inside the aerial mechanism which resulted in me having to undo it from the car, take it inside, disassemble it following instructions here (with one or two variations), put it back together on the car, and feed in the new aerial.

Couple of points: nut came off easily using a small screwdriver and gentle taps with the hammer (hitting away from the car!). Plastic cord teeth had to face the back of the car to get grip with motor gears and feed in.

Apart from that, very all done in around 45 minutes (not bad for me!).

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Well done.

Too late now, but I always use large water pump pliers or Mole grips with curved jaw.

Tape around the nut to protect the chrome of course.

The larger the tool, the better the leverage, and less chance of causing damage.

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Job done and major sense of achievement given that the plastic cabling had snapped inside the aerial mechanism which resulted in me having to undo it from the car, take it inside, disassemble it following instructions here (with one or two variations), put it back together on the car, and feed in the new aerial.

Couple of points: nut came off easily using a small screwdriver and gentle taps with the hammer (hitting away from the car!). Plastic cord teeth had to face the back of the car to get grip with motor gears and feed in.

Apart from that, very all done in around 45 minutes (not bad for me!).

45 minutes sounds pretty good, I would have done it on my old Mk2, but decided to upgrade to Mk4, which took less then 45 minutes of paperwork!!

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