Is220D Starting Problems

rhianzach · June 4, 2013

Hi My Lexus IS 220d has twice failed to start 1st time 6 weeks ago and then again on Sunday. It has been perfect every time since the 1st occasion until this Sunday! It turns over but will not start.Both time the AA have been out and as soon as they put the booster on the Battery it starts. They checked the Battery both times and said it was OK and that it was getting a charge back from the altenator.

Any one got any ideas please?

ColinBarber · June 4, 2013

how many miles has the vehicle done?

Does the engine turn over slowly?

normski2 · June 4, 2013

Do you know how old your Battery is? May be on its last legs.

rhianzach · June 4, 2013

Hi it has done 77000 miles.

It starts to turn over when you press the start button, but after a few goes it does start to get slower!

Then as soon as the AA man turns up with his booster it streets straight away!

Not sure how old the Battery is. I've had car about 18 months!

ColinBarber · June 4, 2013

I imagine it is the original Battery and probably is on its way out. If you have a volt meter it would be worth measuring the voltage before trying to start it in the morning.

steve2006 · June 4, 2013

If it's on the original Battery at 8 years plus old ( and it probably is) replace it.

Lexus OEM Toyota batteries are around £80.00 with a 3 year warranty.

rhianzach · June 4, 2013

I haven't got a volt metre. I will see about getting Battery checked to see what happens. Thanks

dycecooper · October 10, 2013

I have the exact same problem, car would not start, stuck jump leads on and away it went, the Battery was replaced a few months ago by the previous owner although it was not the exact spec it was a higher spec.i have now replaced the Battery with the correct one but it has happened again.

Any ideas?

rhianzach · October 10, 2013

I have the exact same problem, car would not start, stuck jump leads on and away it went, the battery was replaced a few months ago by the previous owner although it was not the exact spec it was a higher spec.i have now replaced the battery with the correct one but it has happened again.

Any ideas?

I had a new Battery fitted in June after the second occasion and it's been fine ever since! When the Battery was tested I was told it was no good!

normski2 · October 11, 2013

I have the exact same problem, car would not start, stuck jump leads on and away it went, the battery was replaced a few months ago by the previous owner although it was not the exact spec it was a higher spec.i have now replaced the battery with the correct one but it has happened again.

Any ideas?

I've heard that the earth point can be a problem on occasions. The one to the body work that is. May want a clean and tighten. Trace the lead from the Battery lead ( with all disconnected ). Hope that sorts it.

Upping the Battery should not have much bearing...I upped my Battery, when I had a 220d, to a higher spec Varta Battery. Still working a treat.

dycecooper · October 20, 2013

No faults found yet it's still the same, even when it's behaving and starting it takes longer to fire up than other cars,

kopondriver · November 9, 2013

No faults found yet it's still the same, even when it's behaving and starting it takes longer to fire up than other cars,

Same for me. I'm convinced that the problem is a winter issue as my Battery has been fine all summer. I first had the problem 2 years ago in Decemder 2011 and changed the Battery. The new Battery seemed to solve the problem but then early 2013 it happened again. I tried disconnecting the Battery overnight for a while which proved that the Battery was holding the charge. Then as the weather improved the problem disappeared only to return again a few weeks back. I've fitted a Battery isolator switch this week which I use overnight. The Battery is still high every morning and the car starts although it turns too many times for my liking. Sitting all day is not a problem but overnight in winter months is. Also fitted new heater plugs last week but no different. Anybody identify similar issues?

dycecooper · November 9, 2013

Two weeks ago I was told by someone that it will not start unless it's turning over at 800RPM, and that I should replace the starter, the current starter sounded perfect but I bit the bullet and bought a started, best price was from Toyota ( an exchange unit) I almost choked at the price,

I fitted the started last Friday and it has never failed to start since and the temperature has been below zero on several occasions

kopondriver · November 9, 2013

Two weeks ago I was told by someone that it will not start unless it's turning over at 800RPM, and that I should replace the starter, the current starter sounded perfect but I bit the bullet and bought a started, best price was from Toyota ( an exchange unit) I almost choked at the price,

I fitted the started last Friday and it has never failed to start since and the temperature has been below zero on several occasions

Souds like your problem is not the same as mine. I've noticed the engine will turn over very slowly with the low Battery but will always start regardless of the turning speed. Also, even when fully charged and the engine warm it still turns too many times for my liking. I would not be inclined to try a new starter since I'm now convinced that the Battery is draining overnight but not throughout the day. This is a power leakage issue and only in low temperatures. The 800rpm requirement is definitely not true but glad you seem to have found your answer.

Noel Mac · January 7, 2018

Hows the form folks, im new to the forum but not new to Lexus or Toyota :)

Anywho i am having a similar issue where by my car Battery did run dead flat (9.3VDC) and she wouldn't even take a charge so i tested with a new Battery from my workshop and all the dash lights came on OK etc i could use the electric windows, wipers, and the green LED would light as i depressed the clutch pedal, but when i attempted to start by pressing the start button the vehicle would do nothing.... wouldn't even turn over, it is flashing that the boot lid is open when it isn't and showing engine warning light and Battery light.... any ideas guys??

Ps... this has only happened when my wife parked the car overnight on the hill outside our home and it got really cold very quickly around minus 2 Celsius , wether that has made a difference or not i am not sure.

ColinBarber · January 7, 2018

Sounds like one or more of the fuses have blown, possibly when you connected the new Battery. Check the large ones, including the 150A alternator one.

Noel Mac · January 7, 2018

Hey Colin, thanks for the response, much appreciated, when I carried it out (leads and Battery swap) I ensured correct polarity so it won’t be that, the fuses you speak of.... where are these located? Are they under the Battery?

cheers Colin :)

ColinBarber · January 7, 2018

I think the large ones are in the fuse box next to the Battery. If a large ones need to be replaced then the fuse box needs to be removed because the fuses are bolted down on the underside.

Noel Mac · January 7, 2018

Thanks Colin, do you think that the canbus system may have a bad ground (Chasis earth)?

If so perhaps this may have caused a fuse to blow due to over current caused by the poor conductivity of a bad connection??? Or am I over cooking the stew??

ColinBarber · January 7, 2018

30 minutes ago, Noel Mac said:

Thanks Colin, do you think that the canbus system may have a bad ground (Chasis earth)?

If so perhaps this may have caused a fuse to blow due to over current caused by the poor conductivity of a bad connection??? Or am I over cooking the stew??

Unlikely but certainly worth checking the ground strap whilst you are poking around the engine bay. Check all the fuses first, you won't be the first to have this sort of problem.

Noel Mac · January 7, 2018

Thanks Colin, I really appreciate your direction on this, I’m off to commission a machine in Leeds next week so I will get stuck into it when I get back and keep you posted... thanks again :)

Noel Mac · January 17, 2018

Hows the form guys, im back and had a look at the fuse location under the Battery but all i could see when i removed the Battery and the lower plinth on which the Battery rests is an ECU, what i did find however was a Battery current type sensor thing ( part no. 28850-50010)..... could this be the cause of the non starting?? also there seems to be a relay "chattering" as though is is losing coil voltage intermittently..... what do we think folks, i do not have a scanner so i am relying solely on my test equipment (fluke meters etc)

I have checked all of the fuses in the engine bay and they have all rang true

Noel Mac · January 28, 2018

So an update guys as to my starting issue..... after going through everything with my fluke multi meter and snap on modis diagnostic unit (effectively going the long way around) DOH!!!!!!

I found the root cause of my starting issue...... the bloody Battery posts were corroded!!! lol...... anyway a big thank you to Colin Barber for sharing his wisdom with us , i now know where to look for the fuses and things in the future, thanks to anyone that waded in with advice as with out it i probably would not of delved in as much as i did and eventually stumble across the problem...... thanks guys :)

Bigchad · January 28, 2018

as above sounds like your Battery..as matter of course during cold periods I pop a charger on every few weeks,,maybe over the top but that works for me,,its a large diesel engine that really takes its toll on the batt when cold,short journeys with the heated seats,radio,cabin heater,lights etc will suck the life out of even the best Battery,remember its an energy store and can only put out whats put in..

connorng823 · July 21, 2023

hi i have a lexus 220d ive had the vassy returner chnaged and since that the car wont start any ideas why this is happening as the car started perfect before this ??.