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Front Strut Brace


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Zee007 Posted on Jun 23 2003, 10:52 AM

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QUOTE (Supracharged-IS340 @ Jun 23 2003, 10:50 AM)

it will fit with the Supercharger...dont worry 

Correct - it will. All I said earlier was it will not fit the INDUCTION kit (different to S/c Induction may I add)....... 

thank Matt and Zee, i was a bit worry then, hehehehe...... :D :D :whistling::whistling::whistling:

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Zee007 Posted on Jun 23 2003, 10:52 AM

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

QUOTE (Supracharged-IS340 @ Jun 23 2003, 10:50 AM)

it will fit with the Supercharger...dont worry 

Correct - it will. All I said earlier was it will not fit the INDUCTION kit (different to S/c Induction may I add)....... 

thank Matt and Zee, i was a bit worry then, hehehehe...... :D :D :whistling::whistling::whistling:

the strut will fit with the standard S/C and induction kit S/C although you may experience rubbing (look at the underside of the bar and top of the pipe in my pics above)

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Zee007 Posted on Jun 23 2003, 10:52 AM

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

QUOTE (Supracharged-IS340 @ Jun 23 2003, 10:50 AM)

it will fit with the Supercharger...dont worry 

Correct - it will. All I said earlier was it will not fit the INDUCTION kit (different to S/c Induction may I add)....... 

thank Matt and Zee, i was a bit worry then, hehehehe...... :D :D :whistling::whistling::whistling:

the strut will fit with the standard S/C and induction kit S/C although you may experience rubbing (look at the underside of the bar and top of the pipe in my pics above)

Just for Clarification - the N/A Induction kit is NOT the same as the S/C Induction.

Strut brace will fit a normal IS200 engine (with no mods)

Strut brace will fit the S/C (standard) and S/C with induction

Strut brace will NOT fit the N/A Induction kit

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Is there anyway around this rubbing problem guys? cause im thinking of having it color coded too, and would the rubbing make alots of noises and also damage the induction pipe & the strut brace itself? im a bit concern about this rubbing business........hehe :whistling::whistling::whistling::whistling:

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Supracharged-IS340 Posted on Jun 23 2003, 05:22 PM

a small piece of material needs removing from the brace on the underside to clear the inlet pipe to the throttle body

Or you could ask whoever is doing the conversion to crease the pipework a bit

to give you the clearance you need :whistling::whistling:

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OK guys, i tried to fit the Strut Brace to my Stantard engine IS200, but when i put it on, and try to tighten the 3 nuts on each sides, i can tighten all nuts, but it seem to be a very tight fit, if i have tighten all the nuts, the Strut Brace will be pressing hard onto the Black engine cover with the air Filter, is this normal? and will it damage the cover and filter? also does the Cusco Strut brace come will any washer? i mean is there a washer thing you can put bewteen the Brace and the engine bay before you tighten those nuts? hope u know what i mean...hehe

any help will be great...thank guys...

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can anyone give a brief explanation as to what it will enhance?

Road control?

What strut base will fit my standard lexus is200se? cusco?

but just read maz post, seems to me like it wasn't an exact fit?

:iraqi-info-minister:

thanks

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dark_is200 Posted on Jul 1 2003, 07:30 PM

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Try putting it on the other way round. The right way round is the wrong way for the IS200 - put the steeply raked end on the battery side of the car.

are u talking about the bar itself or the Blue color end mate? sorry im a bit sutpid, hehe :withstupid: :iraqi-info-minister: ....

from Maz

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Rigidity is an important part of your cars handling. When you ask it to change directions any play in the suspension or chassis will be taken up before the car adjusts its course. Conversely if the car hits a bump or bit of road camber then the play in the chassis and suspension will be taken up before this interaction is communicated to the driver. As a result soft suspension and a chassis that lacks rigidity will dampen the cars responsiveness as well as the feedback it gives to the driver. By stiffening the chassis you also prevent the suspension geometry from changing under load (as the chassis flexes) and improve the overall cornering and grip characteristics of the car.

To improve the chassis stiffness/rigidity we can add brace bars between key load bearing points of the car's chassis. Strut braces tend to be rigid bits of metal that span the gaps between key chassis and suspension pick up points. There are many different designs available to suit different cars but there are three common types: front upper, front lower, and rear.

A front upper strut brace spans and braces the tops of the two front suspension turrets. They also have a cosmetic benefit in that they are available in a range of finishes (polished, anodised etc.) and so add the finishing touch to any designer engine bay. Rear strut braces span and brace the tops of the rear suspension turrets, and some also include a diagonal which bolts down to the rear and this design is preferable. Again these can serve a cosmetic function if you have opted for the stripped out racer look. The front lower brace goes between the front lower wishbone pick up points and unless you exhibit the underside of your car with mirrors then they serve no cosmetic benefit.

There are numerous different designs of brace on the market and some are better than others. Obviously if you are fitting the brace for cosmetic purposes then pick which ever one looks the best, otherwise just consider some of the basic laws of physics. As far as front upper braces go the stiffest tend to be the ones that triangulate onto the suspension turrets but these also give more clearance headaches than other designs. Remember that the brace is only as strong as it's weakest part so despite a chunky looking main bar if this bar tapers down to nothing at each end and the welds are puny then it will not be very strong.

See the Cusco Strut fitted to mine....

JAPS_2003_Zee_s.jpg

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  • 4 weeks later...
zee

i noticed that you have fitted your bar above the damper nuts

is this to clear the pipework ?

if so does it

and does it create any problems in clearance of the bonnet

Haven't you bought enough toys already... huh.. :whistling:

I don't know, some people are never satisfied :D

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I understand the principles behind all this, so on the Cusco one, like in your piccies, does the fact that there is a pivot point (where blue bit meets the silver bar via a nut) not make it less rigid?

Some are one continuos piece of metal (I think the TRD one is like this). Are these better, or does it not make any difference??

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zee

i noticed that you have fitted your bar above the damper nuts

is this to clear the pipework ?

if so does it

and does it create any problems in clearance of the bonnet

the reason i've done that is to clear the down pipe. i have not had enough time to have the spacers made up yet. no probs with bonnet clearance baz...........

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Hiya Zee, where can i get those spacer make? and what is the specs for those spacers? i dont think there anyone i can get to make something like that where i live, so and details will be great mate, want to get a set done so when i get SC fitted the strut brace will fit proper...thank

from Maz

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Hiya Zee, where can i get those spacer make? and what is the specs for those spacers? i dont think there anyone i can get to make something like that where i live, so and details will be great mate, want to get a set done so when i get SC fitted the strut brace will fit proper...thank

from Maz

Maz,

I am getting a friend to do it for me as he works down the road from me and his work is excellent. If you are getting the S/C fotted at TDI, I'm sure Mark will ensure the strut fits correctly (he did on Kierans)....

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  • 4 weeks later...
zee

i noticed that you have fitted your bar above the damper nuts

is this to clear the pipework ?

if so does it

and does it create any problems in clearance of the bonnet

the reason i've done that is to clear the down pipe. i have not had enough time to have the spacers made up yet. no probs with bonnet clearance baz...........

fitting the bar on top of the original nuts, it seems to hit the bonnet sound proofing (dont really want to cut it away) so instead i spaced it of with a few washers under the brace foot

clears the pipework by a few mm

but it seems to press down on the air box on the opposite side

seems a very tight fit

any more views on this before i throw it in the bin :crybaby:

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