I Fail At Cambelt Changes :(

[Mr G]

After taking a week off work, swatting up on the procedure and amassing all required parts I set to work yesterday morning in an attempt to replace my cambelt and a few other items. I'd consider myself fairly mechanically minded as I've replaced head gaskets, cambelts, turbo's, etc before. I also had my old man (retired mechanical engineer) at my disposal along with all his tools.

So anyway, coolant drained, rad and fans off along with airbox gubbins. That was all straight forward. Get to the crankshaft pulley bolt and nothing but nothing (that I had access to) would shift it. I tried the trick of flicking the starter but it made no difference, I even made a tool from a bit of angle my dad had but even with extra leverage (1.5m piece of metal tubing) it wouldn’t shift.

Like I've read in other threads on this subject even though you're able to lock the pulley in place there is still movement on the outer part of the pulley so shocking it doesn't have as much impact. I would describe it as being like the cush drive rubbers on the rear sprocket of a motorcycle.

I got the idea for the tool from another thread on here

This is the state of the belt - not bad I thought and although I'll still change it (83k) it's no longer the emergency I thought it was.

So that's it. I have had to admit defeat. Yes I know I could have gotten a bigger bar and that it was simply a case of needing more leverage but I wasn't prepared to apply that kind of force. I'd rather let a garage have the hassle.

I rung the local Toyota dealer and asked how much it would be to change the cambelt, water pump and bypass o-rings with me supplying all the parts. Because they didn't have a price on their system they contacted Lexus for an idea of what to charge. They rung me back and said the cambelt is listed as a 3 hour job and the water pump as a 0.7 hour job so near enough a 4 hour job all in. 4 hours labour is £350 (yes, really) but he said because of the age of the car they'd knock 20% off thus making it £287. I'll be honest I don't understand what they mean with the %20 discount but I wasn't going to question it!

Does that sound reasonable? I'll contact a few other independent garages for quotes and make a decision. What pains me is that I'll effectively be paying a garage to undo a stubborn nut!! Oh well at least I changed the plugs...

[x_shaun]

that belt looks very worn why has it got cuts out of the front when you do get it apart let us no.

have u tried a 12v power gun on it i bought one from maplins for 20 pounds they are made for wheel bolts but it undone a crank pully bolt on a honda civic and the engine runs backwards so are very hard to undo

[true blue]

Hi this bolt can be a problem to release ;it seems a shame that you seem to have organised a system that does work without success , obvious question ,you were turning the bar the correct way !!!! . I have struggled myself over the years on other vehicles and I think you only really needed a longer bar ( I use a 3/4 sq drive plus a 3 ft bar ) An alternative is if you can get access to a commercial workshop with a pneumatic air gun which will shock off the bolt. With regard to the garage labour cost ,I think the Toyota rate is about average ,you should be able to find a good independent for about £200

[Mr G]

Yeah I know, I thought I had it covered. I read that it needs to be torqued to 220NM so was prepared for a battle! Funny thing is that my torque wrench only goes up to 210NM!!

Re turning it the correct way, this has been a much asked question between us believe me!! I'm LED to believe that it's a normal right-hand thread. Plus the starter trick would only work if it was right-hand thread so that's the way I've been turning it (anticlockwise).

I know I just needed more leverage but I guess I just got a bit p!ssed off / disheartened with it and threw the towel in. I really don't want to take it to a garage if I can help it as I can do everything myself other than this bloody nut!! I'll sleep on it and consider getting a 3/4" socket and a bigger bit of pipe and having another go.

Have you done your cambelt before then? How did you secure the pulley?

[Mr G]

that belt looks very worn why has it got cuts out of the front when you do get it apart let us no.

have u tried a 12v power gun on it i bought one from maplins for 20 pounds they are made for wheel bolts but it undone a crank pully bolt on a honda civic and the engine runs backwards so are very hard to undo

IMO it's not that bad, sure it shouldn't have the chunks taken out of it but it could be worse... http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?showtopic=57335

[wildybeast]

that belt looks very worn why has it got cuts out of the front when you do get it apart let us no.

have u tried a 12v power gun on it i bought one from maplins for 20 pounds they are made for wheel bolts but it undone a crank pully bolt on a honda civic and the engine runs backwards so are very hard to undo

IMO it's not that bad, sure it shouldn't have the chunks taken out of it but it could be worse... http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?showtopic=57335

[wildybeast]

have you tried hitting the end of the socket with a hammer whilst it is on the pulley bolt and you have the bar under pressure.sometimes works.

[Mr G]

Yeah we did try that hoping it would shock it as you say but no joy. Might have another go though.

[ROYT]

Yeah we did try that hoping it would shock it as you say but no joy. Might have another go though.

Although I don't have the same car I'll throw my

two cents worth in .

Get a 3/4 drive socket and a three foot breaker bar, put a length of scaffolding tube

over the bar to extend it, it'll unscrew then!

[graham8370]

Quicker the better mods. All these posts are making me look foolish.

[graham8370]

perhaps one of the "mods' could tidy these posts up. many thanks

[graham8370]

000ps again

[graham8370]

oops!

[graham8370]

Then get one of those poles that pole vaulters use, put that over the scaffold pole, on top of the 3ft breaker bar, over the top of the socket bar handle. That should do it

If still no luck, I have a 200ft section of handrail off the QE2. I'll gladly pop that in the post to you (my mate Cyril has a box).

[ROYT]

Quicker the better mods. All these posts are making me look foolish.

Think the vaulters pole will be too bendy, send the handrail..

[graham8370]

It came off the side of the boat Roy, not the bendy bits at the back or front. (You're obviously as busy as me today.)

[J3NKO]

I say fair play to you for taking the job on. I could probably get to where you are but its not taking it apart that frightens me, its setting the timing!!

Persevere at let us know how you get on! :)

[Stevey G]

I say fair play to you for taking the job on. I could probably get to where you are but its not taking it apart that frightens me, its setting the timing!!

Persevere at let us know how you get on! :)

Setting the timing was easy even for a mere novice like me.

To get the pulley bolt undone I had to purchase a universal pulley bolt holder from fleabay at around £30. I slotted it into the holes, wedged it against the left side, and pushed like mad on the crankshaft bolt. It came undone with some force.

Re-align the timing marks before taking off the pulley.

Get yourself a pulley extractor, and take off the pulley.

Remove the tensioner bolt stop by the left side of the tensioner (not sure of size, but its not a standard socket, and its not spline. Not sure of the name for this type, might be inverse torque or something. When tightening be very careful, these snap really easy :) ) Then remove the tensioner bolt (hex key), and take off the tensioner.

Take off your old cam belt, and put on your new one. Work from the crank around to the cam anti-clockwise. But have a friend hold the cam belt in place just on the top of the crank, where the tensioner will sit. Pull it nice and tight. If you feel that its not quite tight enough, a little trick is to rotate the top cam clockwise a fraction, pop in the cam belt, then rotate it back a fraction to tighten. Do not rotate it too much - just a fraction. When you are confident that the cam belt is tight enough around the right hand side, then pop back on your tensioner with the bolt. Then using a bigger hex, put it it the square unerneath the tensioner bolt, and rotate anti-clockwise. This should tighten the cam belt off. Have your friend remove his hand, before you remove his fingers..

Apply quite a lot of force to this big hex to rotate it enough, so that the tensioner bolt stop can be put back in. Like I said before - do not overtighten, you have been warned. Release pressure in the bix hex, and it should move a fraction, tighening the belt.

Put on your pulley, and do a few turns clockwise, making sure the alignment marks line up. If it doesn't your timing is out, start again :(

If it does, then put back on your covers etc etc .

Thats how I did mine.

Hope it helps.

PM me or post on here if you need any more info. I have stripped my engine, completely down to taking the head off. And may need to do more now. So I could possibly help you.

[Stevey G]

I say fair play to you for taking the job on. I could probably get to where you are but its not taking it apart that frightens me, its setting the timing!!

Persevere at let us know how you get on! :)

Setting the timing was easy even for a mere novice like me.

To get the pulley bolt undone I had to purchase a universal pulley bolt holder from fleabay at around £30. I slotted it into the holes, wedged it against the left side, and pushed like mad on the crankshaft bolt. It came undone with some force.

Re-align the timing marks before taking off the pulley.

Get yourself a pulley extractor, and take off the pulley.

Remove the tensioner bolt stop by the left side of the tensioner (not sure of size, but its not a standard socket, and its not spline. Not sure of the name for this type, might be inverse torque or something. When tightening be very careful, these snap really easy :) ) Then remove the tensioner bolt (hex key), and take off the tensioner.

Take off your old cam belt, and put on your new one. Work from the crank around to the cam anti-clockwise. But have a friend hold the cam belt in place just on the top of the crank, where the tensioner will sit. Pull it nice and tight. If you feel that its not quite tight enough, a little trick is to rotate the top cam clockwise a fraction, pop in the cam belt, then rotate it back a fraction to tighten. Do not rotate it too much - just a fraction. When you are confident that the cam belt is tight enough around the right hand side, then pop back on your tensioner with the bolt. Then using a bigger hex, put it it the square unerneath the tensioner bolt, and rotate anti-clockwise. This should tighten the cam belt off. Have your friend remove his hand, before you remove his fingers..

Apply quite a lot of force to this big hex to rotate it enough, so that the tensioner bolt stop can be put back in. Like I said before - do not overtighten, you have been warned. Release pressure in the bix hex, and it should move a fraction, tighening the belt.

Put on your pulley, and do a few turns clockwise, making sure the alignment marks line up. If it doesn't your timing is out, start again :(

If it does, then put back on your covers etc etc .

Thats how I did mine.

Hope it helps.

PM me or post on here if you need any more info. I have stripped my engine, completely down to taking the head off. And may need to do more now. So I could possibly help you.

Forgot to say, the crank bolt is a standard anti-clockwise undo. Instead of resting the bar on the floor, like in your picture, try resting it on the bracket of the 2 pipes running across the chasis (just out of the picture on the left hand side). Get your 22mm socket and good long bar and position yourself over to the right. Then lift - it worked for me.

[griderjn]

i just do not understand what it is you guys have against pneumatic wrenches.

[Mr G]

In case there was ever any doubt, I have concluded that I do indeed fail massively at cambelt changes as today's shenanigans has proved.

Decided to have another crack this time with a 1M length of scaffold pole. I have ended up shearing off the inner, holder part of the pulley that is bonded to the pulley with rubber. It's booked in with Toyota next week where they're going to change the belt, tensioner / idler, water pump and bypass o-rings for £287.00

Happy days.

[Theoldman]

I have just been to Lexus about my belt costing me £320 all in another £120 for water pump no cost for fitting so I don't think that's to bad people kept say it will be getting on to £600so I am happy

[Mr G]

Yeah I certainly can't grumble with the quote they've given me.

I've just found out that the bit I've sheared off is actually the crankshaft dampener and plays a pretty important role!!

Lexus price is £270. Breaker price is £70. You do the math!!

I just hope that the Toyota garage can get the old pulley off.