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Evening,

Hope it's not frowned upon to ask for some technical advice in a first post but here we go!

Just got myself a 92 GS300, it's got a few electrical glitches that are making it a bit of a nightmare at the moment. The previous owner told me that it had had problems with taking a charge, it's had 2 new alternators (not under my ownership, one of which is receipted) and a new voltage regulator. It seems to drive fine when it has a full Battery, it doesn't run out quickly it runs out quite slowly but the problem is worse at night I'm assuming because of the drain caused by the lights being on. I can drive it for a couple of hours during the day before it won't start again. It's also had things like grounds etc gone over by an auto electrician (apparantly) and they were ok although I may check those again.

Occasionaly when I start the car I get three warning lights, oil something or other, the Battery warning light and one other on the right. They also pop up from time to time when driving and all three stay on when the car's on the way out. I can also make them come up by booting it pretty hard.

Now this morning I got the multimeter out, it was getting around 12.8v on idle and about 13.6v on a small rev. A friend of mine also bought a (huge archaeic!) Battery tester round which confirmed the Battery despite having been run down a few times recently wasn't knackered. I drove the car up the road to get some petrol, I pulled in and noticed what I though was steam coming from the bonnet, pop the bonnet and low and behold the alternator was smoking! Needless to say I shoved the car out the petrol station sharpish but that can't be good. It killed the Battery, a friend bought down a spare and I drove it back to my house (2 mins) and the alternator was fine!! Argghhh!

Also, not quite as terminal as that, the door locks click all the time whilst driving but only over a certain speed (probably about 10mph I reckon).

Any body encountered similar problems and could offer any advice? It would be much appreciated!!

Thanks,

Rob.

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You should test for charging at 1500 rpm minimum with heated rear window and headlights off. You should see 13.5 - 14 volts otherwise the charging circuit needs attention.

Yep, 11.8v. Guess my charging circuit needs attention!

check the footwell and engine bay fuse boxes for corrosion and loose power cables

I ran through all the fuses the other day, I'll check the connections to the boxes themselves. Thanks.

Any more for any more? Was hoping this would be a common fault :(

Also, just remembered I drove it last night and the TRC Off and ABS lights were also flashing up along with the previous 3 if it makes any difference to anyone. Am I being thick or have I read somewhere about a dodgy boot loom causing weird problems?

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You should test for charging at 1500 rpm minimum with heated rear window and headlights off. You should see 13.5 - 14 volts otherwise the charging circuit needs attention.

Yep, 11.8v. Guess my charging circuit needs attention!

check the footwell and engine bay fuse boxes for corrosion and loose power cables

I ran through all the fuses the other day, I'll check the connections to the boxes themselves. Thanks.

Any more for any more? Was hoping this would be a common fault :(

Also, just remembered I drove it last night and the TRC Off and ABS lights were also flashing up along with the previous 3 if it makes any difference to anyone. Am I being thick or have I read somewhere about a dodgy boot loom causing weird problems?

I think the warning lights are just symptoms of the draining Battery. i.e. the system will no longer function as the voltage drops below certain levels. When the altenator went on my mk1, the altenator light was the first to show, followed by oil and abs a bit later on down the road. More systems to fail on the mk2 hence more lights to illuminate as the Battery drains. Maybe check your earth straps to make sure you are getting a good connection between Battery and earth.

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Auto electrician time then?

I would expect it to be something fairly simple really. Either the wiring between the Battery and altenator, the Battery and earth, or the alternator itself. Odds are still stacked against the altenator I suspect, even if it has been replaced before (twice). Were they new, or from breakers? If you take the belt off, does the altenator turn super smooth, or rough and notchy?

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Evening,

Hope it's not frowned upon to ask for some technical advice in a first post but here we go!

Just got myself a 92 GS300, it's got a few electrical glitches that are making it a bit of a nightmare at the moment. The previous owner told me that it had had problems with taking a charge, it's had 2 new alternators (not under my ownership, one of which is receipted) and a new voltage regulator. It seems to drive fine when it has a full battery, it doesn't run out quickly it runs out quite slowly but the problem is worse at night I'm assuming because of the drain caused by the lights being on. I can drive it for a couple of hours during the day before it won't start again. It's also had things like grounds etc gone over by an auto electrician (apparantly) and they were ok although I may check those again.

Occasionaly when I start the car I get three warning lights, oil something or other, the battery warning light and one other on the right. They also pop up from time to time when driving and all three stay on when the car's on the way out. I can also make them come up by booting it pretty hard.

Now this morning I got the multimeter out, it was getting around 12.8v on idle and about 13.6v on a small rev. A friend of mine also bought a (huge archaeic!) battery tester round which confirmed the battery despite having been run down a few times recently wasn't knackered. I drove the car up the road to get some petrol, I pulled in and noticed what I though was steam coming from the bonnet, pop the bonnet and low and behold the alternator was smoking! Needless to say I shoved the car out the petrol station sharpish but that can't be good. It killed the battery, a friend bought down a spare and I drove it back to my house (2 mins) and the alternator was fine!! Argghhh!

Also, not quite as terminal as that, the door locks click all the time whilst driving but only over a certain speed (probably about 10mph I reckon).

Any body encountered similar problems and could offer any advice? It would be much appreciated!!

Thanks,

Rob.

hi rob,

i had a problem like this, i bought new Battery,alternater serviced,new pully tentioner,it was the crank pully it had split apart on the rubber insert.

do a check on the following, take car for a run at night with lights on radio on a/c on, and see if Battery light comes on when you are doing a full lock if it dos thats the problem.

don

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hi rob,

i had a problem like this, i bought new battery,alternater serviced,new pully tentioner,it was the crank pully it had split apart on the rubber insert.

do a check on the following, take car for a run at night with lights on radio on a/c on, and see if battery light comes on when you are doing a full lock if it dos thats the problem.

don

Thanks for the suggestion. How much was that to repair?

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hi rob,

i had a problem like this, i bought new battery,alternater serviced,new pully tentioner,it was the crank pully it had split apart on the rubber insert.

do a check on the following, take car for a run at night with lights on radio on a/c on, and see if battery light comes on when you are doing a full lock if it dos thats the problem.

don

Thanks for the suggestion. How much was that to repair?

hi rob

check my topic back in feb 6 under gs300 all prices was on there but i think the crank pully was 126 fitted by my local garage not lexus.

don

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hi rob,

i had a problem like this, i bought new battery,alternater serviced,new pully tentioner,it was the crank pully it had split apart on the rubber insert.

do a check on the following, take car for a run at night with lights on radio on a/c on, and see if battery light comes on when you are doing a full lock if it dos thats the problem.

don

Thanks for the suggestion. How much was that to repair?

hi rob

check my topic back in feb 6 under gs300 all prices was on there but i think the crank pully was 126 fitted by my local garage not lexus.

don

Excellent, not too bad then.

I'll have a check tonight and report back with the results, I reckon this could be it though!

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hi rob,

i had a problem like this, i bought new battery,alternater serviced,new pully tentioner,it was the crank pully it had split apart on the rubber insert.

do a check on the following, take car for a run at night with lights on radio on a/c on, and see if battery light comes on when you are doing a full lock if it dos thats the problem.

don

Thanks for the suggestion. How much was that to repair?

hi rob

check my topic back in feb 6 under gs300 all prices was on there but i think the crank pully was 126 fitted by my local garage not lexus.

don

Excellent, not too bad then.

I'll have a check tonight and report back with the results, I reckon this could be it though!

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hi rob,

i had a problem like this, i bought new battery,alternater serviced,new pully tentioner,it was the crank pully it had split apart on the rubber insert.

do a check on the following, take car for a run at night with lights on radio on a/c on, and see if battery light comes on when you are doing a full lock if it dos thats the problem.

don

Thanks for the suggestion. How much was that to repair?

hi rob

check my topic back in feb 6 under gs300 all prices was on there but i think the crank pully was 126 fitted by my local garage not lexus.

don

Excellent, not too bad then.

I'll have a check tonight and report back with the results, I reckon this could be it though!

If you have someone else there with you you can check under bonnet yourself, do as i have said with engine running/lights on full/radio on/air con on full, get someone to turn wheel to full lock,look at the belt behind rad as wheel is turned to full lock you will see belt slow down maybe even stop and then look at bottom pully the crank and see if back plate is tunning the same as the front plate it is hard to see so look carfully or even better mark both plates and see if they move

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  • 2 weeks later...

Right, I've had the alternator replaced and it's running fine, however, the previous owner also said this.

So I'm forced to ask, what causes an alternator to fail consistently? I'm still scared to drive the thing because although it works at the moment it could be anything as far as I can see that can cause it to fail!

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Right, I've had the alternator replaced and it's running fine, however, the previous owner also said this.

So I'm forced to ask, what causes an alternator to fail consistently? I'm still scared to drive the thing because although it works at the moment it could be anything as far as I can see that can cause it to fail!

Hi rob, if you have a cell down in your Battery this can blow the regulater in the alternater, can i ask you did you check you crank pully correctly.

Don

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I didn't personally but I asked the garage to and I believe him when he says he did!

I'll be picking up a fresh battery tonight (kept the receipt from Halfords for a change), hopefully this'll be the end of it.

Hi rob,

Just a quick one mate but I had a electrical garage to try and find the fault, and my local garage , and a diagnostic check and none of them could find a fault.

As I said before do it yourself with engine running and get someone to turn the steering wheel to full lock both ways ,with a/c on full, and all lights and radio on

you look at belt drive under bonnet and the belt will drive around normal but when under strain on full lock the belt will slow down and maybe even stop, if this is the case its the pully this is how I found that my crank pully was faulty. atfer all mate it will only take a few min to check it youself.

You cant check on normal tick over and just looking at belt you have to do as above.

Hope you get it fixed

Don

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I didn't personally but I asked the garage to and I believe him when he says he did!

I'll be picking up a fresh battery tonight (kept the receipt from Halfords for a change), hopefully this'll be the end of it.

Hi rob,

Just a quick one mate but I had a electrical garage to try and find the fault, and my local garage , and a diagnostic check and none of them could find a fault.

As I said before do it yourself with engine running and get someone to turn the steering wheel to full lock both ways ,with a/c on full, and all lights and radio on

you look at belt drive under bonnet and the belt will drive around normal but when under strain on full lock the belt will slow down and maybe even stop, if this is the case its the pully this is how I found that my crank pully was faulty. atfer all mate it will only take a few min to check it youself.

You cant check on normal tick over and just looking at belt you have to do as above.

Hope you get it fixed

Don

I'll take your word for it, I will personally check it when I get the car back, I needed a new alternator anyway I guess as the inside was all burnt lol. Thanks for all your help people!

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