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Abs Light On (diagnostics Advice)


altezza __rs200
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Hi, the abs light on my rs200 auto is constantly on, ive tried to reset this but it stays on. My mechanic has also plugged his diagnostic machines on the car but it does not pick this up.

He manually read the codes and it came up with 4 codes p31 p32 p33 and p34,

Has anyone had this problem before, any help would be appreciated.

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Hi, the abs light on my rs200 auto is constantly on, ive tried to reset this but it stays on. My mechanic has also plugged his diagnostic machines on the car but it does not pick this up.

He manually read the codes and it came up with 4 codes p31 p32 p33 and p34,

Has anyone had this problem before, any help would be appreciated.

Have you looked at the ABS sensors? Any work done around the wheels lately?

Phil

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This is not vehicle specific but the majority of ABS faults are due to the pickups on the hubs more so the fronts or the wiring to them.

Being exposed to constant vibration and road crud doesn't help.

If you have a digital multimeter disconnect each sensor ( start at the front ones) and read the resistance if you get no reading (open circuit) it's shot.

Basically the sensor/pickup is an electrical coil wrapped around a permanant magnet this is positioned pointing at a toothed metal wheel ( part of the hub) and as the wheel turns it induces a small electrical voltage in the coil which is then passed to the ABS ECU.

When the ECU has one of the four signals missing it detects the fault and on comes the ABS light.

So check the sensors and wiring/plugs also check for metal filings on the sensor picked up off the road and remove if present and check the toothed wheels for damaged teeth and road crud clean as required

The sensors are held on with either 1 or 2 bolts and are easily removed after taking off the road wheel.

You may have to reset the ECU after doing this to clear the fault from the memory.

The 4 codes you have managed to read coincide with the number of wheel sensors but this may not mean they have all failed just one down could activate the codes.

Hopefully after doing this your ABS light will go off, if not make an appointment with your bank manager!

Just had another thought another way of confirming a faulty wheel sensor/pickup is to reset the ABS then turn on the ignition, the ABS light should then go out after a few seconds if as soon as you move the car it comes back on this is a good sign a sensor has failed.

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Hi, the abs light on my rs200 auto is constantly on, ive tried to reset this but it stays on. My mechanic has also plugged his diagnostic machines on the car but it does not pick this up.

He manually read the codes and it came up with 4 codes p31 p32 p33 and p34,

Has anyone had this problem before, any help would be appreciated.

Hi,

I don't have your model year but have a look on here.

http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/q.html

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I had the car on my mechanics diagnostics machine, the toyota one and a snap on machine, but was unable to detect the car. He than checked all sensors and it seems the osf sensor was buggered so ive ordered a new one from toyota £120.

OUCH!

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New ABS sensor fitted, ecu reset and the light is still there, bloody nightmare. Does any one know how to test the ABS module.

There's a whole load of stuff here and here. It's for the IS200 but I imagine it's exactly the same for the Altezza.

A particularly relevant bit may be where it says that even if you fix the problem, the ABS light doesn't go off until you do a certain sequence of driving and pressing the brake pedal, might be worth trying that ?

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Disconnect Battery, wait 5 mins, reconnect adn then drive at over 10 mph for a bit. That should do it.

Got the bloody ABS lights come up on the Laguna the other day :(

Typical! MOT next week!

I had this problem with car once. Sometimes if you move (remove) the sensor (s) there is no guarantee that they go back in exactly the same place. With the one I removed and replaced (the light still came on) I had to remove, clean and replace the 'untouched' one, before the light went out (It was covered in white grease). Do not let the magnetic end stick to anything and make sure it is cleaned properly. I believe that the magnetic field found at the end of the sensor (or the spacing between the sensor and the cogs in the wheel knuckle) is important to be the same! Does this make any sense at all?

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Does to me! One of the most sensitive bits on the car and its exposed to all sorts of $hit and brake dust / old disc chippings etc.... Give the sensors a good sprayof Brake Cleaner. That might help.

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Hi, the abs light on my rs200 auto is constantly on, ive tried to reset this but it stays on. My mechanic has also plugged his diagnostic machines on the car but it does not pick this up.

He manually read the codes and it came up with 4 codes p31 p32 p33 and p34,

Has anyone had this problem before, any help would be appreciated.

Check all your wheel sensors are ok... they need to be flush into the little holes or there will be problems. The error codes your getting are all 4 of the wheel sensors which is impossible unless you have disconnected them and driven the car.

This link will tell you all you need to know:

http://toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=47053

Note it will not reset itself you need to pump the brakes:

"To clear fault codes, leave the jumper in place between terminals Tc and E1 with the key on, then pump the brake pedal eight or more times in three seconds or less. When codes are erased, the ABS light should flash two times per second."

Nathan

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  • 2 weeks later...

Looks like im gonna need a replacement ABS pump, does anyone know where i can get one from, i know of 3 breaking, 2 look completely different, and one of them the numbers are slightly diff. The numbers come in two parts the first section of the numbers are the same its the second part to it. (tiptronic 2003)

Does any one know the amount of different types are available.

Any help would be much appreciated.

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On the IS200 the ABS/TRC actuator changed around 2000, I presume it was similar/the same for the RS200, so I would guess it's the later one that you want. Might be worth taking a photo and showing it to a Toyota dealer and they can double-check the part for you.

I can't find the right parts diagram at the moment though and it's really bugging me :duh:

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi, ive managed to clear the ABS light by removing the short pin, placing the jumper in the tc and e1 position and pumping the brake pedal quicly, but now when you press the brake pedal at slow speed 5mph or so or when the car is coming to a stand still it skids, you can feel it in the steering wheel.

It never did this when the light was on.

Any help be much appreciated.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Hi, ive managed to clear the ABS light by removing the short pin, placing the jumper in the tc and e1 position and pumping the brake pedal quicly, but now when you press the brake pedal at slow speed 5mph or so or when the car is coming to a stand still it skids, you can feel it in the steering wheel.

It never did this when the light was on.

Any help be much appreciated.

its most likely the abs sensors which are faulty i had the same problem now i have replaced the sensoris fine

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  • 11 months later...
Hi, the abs light on my rs200 auto is constantly on, ive tried to reset this but it stays on. My mechanic has also plugged his diagnostic machines on the car but it does not pick this up.

He manually read the codes and it came up with 4 codes p31 p32 p33 and p34,

Has anyone had this problem before, any help would be appreciated.

Check all your wheel sensors are ok... they need to be flush into the little holes or there will be problems. The error codes your getting are all 4 of the wheel sensors which is impossible unless you have disconnected them and driven the car.

This link will tell you all you need to know:

http://toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=47053

Note it will not reset itself you need to pump the brakes:

"To clear fault codes, leave the jumper in place between terminals Tc and E1 with the key on, then pump the brake pedal eight or more times in three seconds or less. When codes are erased, the ABS light should flash two times per second."

Nathan

Please can anyone describe where to find the jumper and Tc & E1 terminals?

BCingU

En :-)

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  • 3 months later...

Old thread, same problem.

Hi altezza__rs200,

I have the exact same problem on my IS300. After changing the ABS actuator (it was dead) the car ABS kicks in at every single stop.

Whatever it is a hard or gentle stop, the ABS would kick just before complete stop.

What connector did you change ?

thanks,

mtlIS

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  • 3 years later...

Hi all, had the same ABS Light problem for about 3 years, intermittantly on When starting

The same result as others on the OBD- test, showing P31,32,33,34 ! all sensors,, Impossible!!

to cut a long story short, it turned out to be a Voltage sensitive ABS computer, when the Vehicle is

not used for a week or more-(on holiday) the voltage drops (because of the constant alarm drain)

so when you start it flashes,, a 5-20 mile run until the Static Battery charge recovers to ~13 v

a switch off, with foot on the brake, & Restart resets, then everything is ok .....

a daily run is fine, a new/Another ABS computer "May Fix it" as this is a minor inconvenience

it was not worth spending lots of £££ on a "Maybe"

It is interesting that with the earlier Car Battery it very rarely showed up, probably because the

older battery's impedence was higher so the voltage recovered quicker ...????

this "quirk" shows up more frequently with the newer Battery because it is "Stiffer" and does not

allow the voltage to rise so quickly,,

Fixed Voltage regulators used in these ABS computers have a manufacturing tolerence

so can vary by 5% up or down maybe the one in Mine is on the upper side ?????

Always run the engine to charge Battery before Doing an MOT

N.B. print this out and leave on seat as most Testers Do not know of this ......

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If it's a 2000 model car, then a voltage sensitive ABS system may indicate that the ABS ECU is degrading.

It's usually the capacitors in the ECU that degrade as they only have a 10-15 year life span under the harsh conditions that a car gets exposed to (massive swings in temperature, vibration and humidity).

If you are handy, it might be worth removing the ABS ECU and opening it up to inspect the capacitors - if degrading, they will usually be visibly bulging or leaking chemicals. A number of people have rejuvenated engine ECUs with new capacitors, so an ABS one may well be similarly repairable.

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