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Posted

ypu have probably already checked but have you looked at the jumper switches are all set correctly??

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Posted
ypu have probably already checked but have you looked at the jumper switches are all set correctly??

Hi - Yeh i checked all the jumpers and theyre all present & in the right place as far as i can tell, 12V, Timer & on/off (option one).

Edit - I found some fuse wire so i can have a good play around without the expense of glass fuses lol

I determined that by disconnecting the negative to the mirrors then activating the board, the fuse doesnt blow, thats all so far!

Posted

Okay i've connected a multimeter to the relay, when the relay is unactivated C & NC are connected, when the relay is activated C & NO are connected. thats the same on both sides of the circuit board

Posted

have you checked that the mirrors are wired into the timer correctly looking at the circuit and the back of the board, the only way i can see that this would blow a fuse is if the mirrors are wired back to front??

i could be wring but with my limited knowledge of electronics thats all i can put it down to..

this would allow the mirrors to still work corraectly but would mean that when its triggered, would show two lots of power to the NC..

im not explaing very well here!!

i would try it out myself but i just ventured outside and its too cold for me as im currently suffering form Man Flu!

Feel free to correct me if im totally wrong!!

Posted
have you checked that the mirrors are wired into the timer correctly looking at the circuit and the back of the board, the only way i can see that this would blow a fuse is if the mirrors are wired back to front??

i could be wring but with my limited knowledge of electronics thats all i can put it down to..

this would allow the mirrors to still work corraectly but would mean that when its triggered, would show two lots of power to the NC..

im not explaing very well here!!

i would try it out myself but i just ventured outside and its too cold for me as im currently suffering form Man Flu!

Feel free to correct me if im totally wrong!!

Thanks matey - i dont fully understand the circuit myself, i've done as much as i can do today - lets see if Geoff has any suggestions when he comes on

Posted

hi can you get some pics up of the underside of the circuit board assuming its single layer track

also some pics of the circuit when its installed

a suggestion would be to just wire up the mirrors to the circuit not the car side of it effictivly this would just allow the circuit to fold the mirrors in i wont trigger to fold them out again unless you reverse the voltage

it does sound like a wire is installed back wards the more pics you can upload the better then we can have a proper hunt for the problem

Rabs


Posted

I'm managing to get imagechack working now, here's some photos :)

p1000653dg6.jpg

p1000644gd8.jpg

p1000652yu9.jpg

p1000649ap4.jpg

Now I dont have a photo of it wired into the car but all the relay connections to the footwell & mirrors are wired exactly as per Geoff's diagram, the 12v power is coming directly from the Battery as is the alarm trigger as i short it out against that same wire for a second to give the trigger signal.

Steve.

Posted
Thanks for all the help Geoff, i did bench test it away from the car not connected at all to the car & when i said the lab DC supply went well over 2A what happened was i think 2.5+A came up on the display the unit started clicking inside & two lights illuminated C.C & C.V I think this means coarse current & coarse voltage but i'm not 100%. I'm going back to work at about 9am where i have access to a nice heated workshop so i'll have another try then :)

Sorry for the delay chaps, wanted to do this today but my Mum took ill so I've been at the hospital all day. She's not to bad now and quite settled.

Ok, so you've tested away from the car indicating its not the connections to the car itself as there will be nothing connected to it. (Other than a neg on the footwell neg)

When you wired it to your power supply, did you have the negative from your PSU connected to the footwell wht/blk wire and the positive on its positive, then just touch the alarm trigger with the +

Those relay connections you have metered are fine and as per the diagram they included.

Its interesting that when the neg is remved from the footwell side the fuse doesn't blow. This indicates that either the relay is making the other connection before breaking the first, or there is a short in the wires.

What happens if you keep the wire link from the neg to the footwell neg, but take out the wire that goes outside of the box?

Any chance you can take a piccy of it wired to your power supply so we can see the wires outside of the box, getting as much in as you can? (including towards the inside of the box)

Posted

Hi Geoff,

When i tested the relay today away from the car the relay behaved itself & the amps reading on the power supply remained very low probably mA's so that seems to be fine now.

I'll pop by work again tomorrow about lunchtime and try all the querys you mentioned also try to get some good photos of the connections i've made to the mirrors etc.

Cheers,

Steve.

P.S. hope you mum gets better soon :)

Posted

i have mine all ready to test tomorrow but only a 10amp fuse!!

damnit!

Posted
Hi Geoff,

When i tested the relay today away from the car the relay behaved itself & the amps reading on the power supply remained very low probably mA's so that seems to be fine now.

I'll pop by work again tomorrow about lunchtime and try all the querys you mentioned also try to get some good photos of the connections i've made to the mirrors etc.

Cheers,

Steve.

P.S. hope you mum gets better soon :)

Hopefully it was just a minor mistake in the connection to the car. My instructions may not be that clear really.

If you follow just this diagram, is it easier to follow than the one in the instructions?

timer2.JPG

P.S. hope you mum gets better soon :)

Cheers mate.


Posted

i understand em mate but thats prob because i have been pondering over this for months!!

makes it a bit easier to substitute "footwell wires" for "connection block wires" and "mirror wires" for "loom wires"..

made it esier for me when trying to remember what went where!!

Posted
forgive me for a stupid question why is there a link across the relay the black wire it seems what is the purpose of this link

Rabs

That's where it picks its negative up from the footwell.

Posted
makes it a bit easier to substitute "footwell wires" for "connection block wires" and "mirror wires" for "loom wires"..

Actually, based on that I would guess it could easily be open to interpretation.

Steve, if these are the wrong way around and not like in the "easier" diagram, this will cause those exact symptoms you have. Follow that diagram with the guides on a couple of posts above.

Posted
makes it a bit easier to substitute "footwell wires" for "connection block wires" and "mirror wires" for "loom wires"..

Actually, based on that I would guess it could easily be open to interpretation.

Steve, if these are the wrong way around and not like in the "easier" diagram, this will cause those exact symptoms you have. Follow that diagram with the guides on a couple of posts above.

will do

Posted

im pretty confident that it will work mate and possibly got the car connection back to front..

my understanding is that the relay is "normally closed" allowing it to work as if nothing had been put in the circuit. When the alarm is triggered it moves the relay to "normally open" for a timed period and this is where we link back to the mirror mechanism to give it the feed it needs to motorise after the ign is off, hence the need for a perm live..

if it was wired back to front i would cause a power loop and blow the fuse!!

if thats right then i just taught myself somethin about relays!

Posted

Well I'm happy to report that its now working perfect, it must have been my interpretation of the initial drawing & where the wires go for the mirror & footwell - Oh & dont bother using a scotchlok for the alarm trigger wire anyone as it wont get thru the insulation & cause all sorts of confusion lol

Thanks to all for your help!

I'll post some pictures later of the finished article.

Steve.

Posted

Total closure hmmmm think i'll give it a miss for this month - thats enough stress for now - with the constant fear of an airbag or 2 going off above my head while poking about with wires :unsure::lol:

Posted
yay it works

congratulations now onto the total clousre side :P

which your going to post instructions for!!!

:winky:

Posted
Well I'm happy to report that its now working perfect, it must have been my interpretation of the initial drawing & where the wires go for the mirror & footwell - Oh & dont bother using a scotchlok for the alarm trigger wire anyone as it wont get thru the insulation & cause all sorts of confusion lol

Thanks to all for your help!

I'll post some pictures later of the finished article.

Steve.

Great stuff.

Posted

Its really easy to do once you have the mirror circuit in as Geoff said earlier in this post somewhere lol you take the feed from the coil of the relay to trigger the extra relays you will install to close the windows

i did mine to add one touch as well so little extra work but the wire you need to use in the doors are slightly chunkier than the other wires but you do have to make all the connections in the doors i promise it is easy its 2 wires from each door to a central relay point i put mine in the boot where most people have there puddles lol i dont yet

im currently working on another few projects 1 of which has been spoken about a few times ............................

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