New Car Needs A Good Polish

[gib]

Hi

The new car needs a good polish, the paint feels rough to touch with a lots of 'oxidisation' and traffic filsm.

Can anyone recommend a good rotary electric polisher - nothing too expensive though.

Thanks again

[Purvesh]

I'd recommend you clay the car, using something like the Meguiars Quick clay set.

I've got a Porter Cable 7424, you can probably get a cheapy alternative from Halfords.

[Steviewevie]

Yeah, sounds like you need to clay it. That will take off the rough feeling that you've noticed.

[dgman]

i agree with all above then apply the carlack system to the paintwork glass and wheels.it is very durable and gives very good protection against bird droppings,jaw dropping gloss and its about £13 per 500ml which has lasted me two and a half years.

[gib]

I used clay on my old car and it did work great.

Where do you get the Carlack stuff? I used Klasse in the past.

Thanks

[dgman]

I used clay on my old car and it did work great.

Where do you get the Carlack stuff? I used Klasse in the past.

Thanks

clean your car.co.uk,apply in the same way as you would klasse.

[PJ S]

Hi

The new car needs a good polish, the paint feels rough to touch with a lots of 'oxidisation' and traffic filsm.

Can anyone recommend a good rotary electric polisher - nothing too expensive though.

Is that the car in the banner - silver metallic?

It won't be oxidised, as it'll have a clearcoat over the paint, and silver tends not to fade like singlestage reds and blacks do.

Foregoing the polishing route, unless there's swirls and scrapes galore, then I'd suggest a good wash, clay, and sealant will do the trick.

1) Get some Bilt Hamber Surfex HD - dilute to 10% strength, and use in a pressurised garden sprayer all over, including the wheels. Leave for 2-3 mins (try not to let it dry out), then rinse off - warm water if possible, as this makes the product more active, so cleaning better.

2) Wash with chosen shampoo - Bilt Hamber Autowash or Dodo Juice Born To Be Mild.

3) clay with their own Autoclay (soft version) using water in a trigger/pump spray bottle or the hose attachment.

4) Dry and apply whichever LSP (last stage product) you fancy/have.*

Now, this is where it can get a bit technical and confusing:

* If you have swirls, but don't go down the machine polishing route, you'd be best to use a filler sealant like Bilt Hamber Autobalm. The same product can be used regardless of whether its fillers are being utilised or not, but other sealants like Carlack/Klasse (the former based/derived on the latter from what I remember reading - not sure the exact tie-in between the two companies) or Zaino/Duragloss, they will highlight the defects more - so polishing to a highly mirror-like finish is better to appreciate them better.

If you shunned the polishing aspect, and went for Autobalm, the drying aspect, after rinsing could be omitted, as it'll disperse and set-up on a wet surface no problem, and which will help the applicator pad remain well damp to aid the spreading of the product.

Should you fancy swirl removal - 2 options open on a full rotary rather than random orbital machine.

1) Silverline (orange version better than blue, and not much more costly) from eBay sellers

2) Chicago Pneumatic/Milwaukee - 2x the price of the Silverline, but then a better long term investment, all things considered. Paul @ Glossmax would be worth speaking with on the Milwaukee, and pads.

Ben @ carnaubawaxshop.co.uk does the full gamut of BH products, Glossmax, only the wash/clays/balm.

[Mr Mole]

Hi

The new car needs a good polish, the paint feels rough to touch with a lots of 'oxidisation' and traffic filsm.

Can anyone recommend a good rotary electric polisher - nothing too expensive though.

Is that the car in the banner - silver metallic?

Should you fancy swirl removal - 2 options open on a full rotary rather than random orbital machine.

1) Silverline (orange version better than blue, and not much more costly) from eBay sellers

2) Chicago Pneumatic/Milwaukee - 2x the price of the Silverline, but then a better long term investment, all things considered. Paul @ Glossmax would be worth speaking with on the Milwaukee, and pads.

Ben @ carnaubawaxshop.co.uk does the full gamut of BH products, Glossmax, only the wash/clays/balm.

Ok i was thinking about buying a polisher for the car.

Just want to know why a full rotary rather than a random orbital machine.

And yes I have some swirl marks also.

I was thinking about the Meguiers machine,would this be a good buy or not ?

Thanks Mole.

[dgman]

mole,the rotory will get the job done faster but requires a higher skill level to operate as it generates a lot of heat and in unskilled hands can burn your paint.the orbital won't generate that level of heat and is safe in the hands of the unskilled user,the downside is that the paint correction will be at a slower rate.am i right in thinking that the megs machine does'nt require a transformer then thats what i would buy.i would consider the menzerna polishes they are very good,veiw at polished bliss.

[Steviewevie]

If you shunned the polishing aspect, and went for Autobalm, the drying aspect, after rinsing could be omitted, as it'll disperse and set-up on a wet surface no problem, and which will help the applicator pad remain well damp to aid the spreading of the product.

Interesting. I need to clay my car soon, and I've got some Autobalm that I'm intending to apply after. Anything that can save me some work, like not having to dry it before the Autobalm, is a good thing in my book !

Thanks for the tip :)

[Steviewevie]

Ok i was thinking about buying a polisher for the car.

Just want to know why a full rotary rather than a random orbital machine.

And yes I have some swirl marks also.

I was thinking about the Meguiers machine,would this be a good buy or not ?

I know nothing about machine polishing, so can't offer direct advise. But there appear to be some pretty comprehensive guides to using different sorts of polishers over at Detailing World

There are loads of people on the detailing World forums using machine polishers, so their Tools forum could be a good place to get further advice on this.

[gib]

Hi

The new car needs a good polish, the paint feels rough to touch with a lots of 'oxidisation' and traffic filsm.

Can anyone recommend a good rotary electric polisher - nothing too expensive though.

Is that the car in the banner - silver metallic?

It won't be oxidised, as it'll have a clearcoat over the paint, and silver tends not to fade like singlestage reds and blacks do.

Foregoing the polishing route, unless there's swirls and scrapes galore, then I'd suggest a good wash, clay, and sealant will do the trick.

1) Get some Bilt Hamber Surfex HD - dilute to 10% strength, and use in a pressurised garden sprayer all over, including the wheels. Leave for 2-3 mins (try not to let it dry out), then rinse off - warm water if possible, as this makes the product more active, so cleaning better.

2) Wash with chosen shampoo - Bilt Hamber Autowash or Dodo Juice Born To Be Mild.

3) clay with their own Autoclay (soft version) using water in a trigger/pump spray bottle or the hose attachment.

4) Dry and apply whichever LSP (last stage product) you fancy/have.*

Now, this is where it can get a bit technical and confusing:

* If you have swirls, but don't go down the machine polishing route, you'd be best to use a filler sealant like Bilt Hamber Autobalm. The same product can be used regardless of whether its fillers are being utilised or not, but other sealants like Carlack/Klasse (the former based/derived on the latter from what I remember reading - not sure the exact tie-in between the two companies) or Zaino/Duragloss, they will highlight the defects more - so polishing to a highly mirror-like finish is better to appreciate them better.

If you shunned the polishing aspect, and went for Autobalm, the drying aspect, after rinsing could be omitted, as it'll disperse and set-up on a wet surface no problem, and which will help the applicator pad remain well damp to aid the spreading of the product.

Should you fancy swirl removal - 2 options open on a full rotary rather than random orbital machine.

1) Silverline (orange version better than blue, and not much more costly) from eBay sellers

2) Chicago Pneumatic/Milwaukee - 2x the price of the Silverline, but then a better long term investment, all things considered. Paul @ Glossmax would be worth speaking with on the Milwaukee, and pads.

Ben @ carnaubawaxshop.co.uk does the full gamut of BH products, Glossmax, only the wash/clays/balm.

Awesome response. I'm on it!!

Thanks

[Guest inicol63]

Ok here goes buy your self some clay first, then get colilite this will give your car protection during the winter month then your need to get your polisher i would go for the Maguire car polisher around £140 this should give you a couple of different heads.

Then go for some thing like poor boys swirl remover use this with either a red or yellow head.

Then go on to utube and put in how to use my maguire and follow instruction on how to use, this is important, as you work the polish over a small area watching the polish change colour, you then need a soft cloth to wipe over a put the final polish on.

Then if you want a wet look then you could finally apply Autoglym gloss allow to dry for 30 minutes and wipe of again with a soft cloth.

The finished result will give you a lasting shine during the winter month....

Good luck and enjoy, , remember everyone of us has our own fav ways of cleaning our cars....

Ian

[PJ S]

If you shunned the polishing aspect, and went for Autobalm, the drying aspect, after rinsing could be omitted, as it'll disperse and set-up on a wet surface no problem, and which will help the applicator pad remain well damp to aid the spreading of the product.

Interesting. I need to clay my car soon, and I've got some Autobalm that I'm intending to apply after. Anything that can save me some work, like not having to dry it before the Autobalm, is a good thing in my book !

Thanks for the tip :)

No problem - only slight issue with the tip, is the water hardness in your area, and how quickly the water will evaporate, leaving behind the telltale mineral deposits.

Two solutions are to use Duragloss Aquawax (basically a QD spray) or IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol) which can be picked up from a range of places locally or the 'net.

The latter may be the better of the options, due to using at 50-75% neat, it'll leave the surface as clean as can possibly be (mind the rubber seals), which the 'balm will appreciate.

The DG AqW may leave a little something behind, but then again, as the 'balm has chemical cleaning abilities, it may remove what was laid down.

A third solution is to invest in a water filter to remove the mineral content, so as you don't have to worry about getting round the car quickly enough, and on occasions, can be completely lazy - rinse off, and go have a beer/soft drink/cuppa, while it air dries.

Have a read - http://www.civinfo.com/forum/cleaning/1668...ish-used-2.html

[PJ S]

Hi

The new car needs a good polish, the paint feels rough to touch with a lots of 'oxidisation' and traffic filsm.

Can anyone recommend a good rotary electric polisher - nothing too expensive though.

Is that the car in the banner - silver metallic?

Should you fancy swirl removal - 2 options open on a full rotary rather than random orbital machine.

1) Silverline (orange version better than blue, and not much more costly) from eBay sellers

2) Chicago Pneumatic/Milwaukee - 2x the price of the Silverline, but then a better long term investment, all things considered. Paul @ Glossmax would be worth speaking with on the Milwaukee, and pads.

Ben @ carnaubawaxshop.co.uk does the full gamut of BH products, Glossmax, only the wash/clays/balm.

Ok i was thinking about buying a polisher for the car.

Just want to know why a full rotary rather than a random orbital machine.

And yes I have some swirl marks also.

I was thinking about the Meguiers machine,would this be a good buy or not ?

Thanks Mole.

Meg's G220 is not a half bad machine, but its first offering had either poor QC or reliability due to inferior parts supplied/chosen or assembly techniques (dry joints?)

The revised version should be all that's sold now - but don't quote me on that - and if being used to replace fault originals, would seem to be a better quality unit, with the lack of noise about how its failed as well.

That said, if you're a complete numpty, it's possible to damage paintwork no matter which type of machine polisher you have in your hands at the time.

[PJ S]

mole,the rotory will get the job done faster but requires a higher skill level to operate as it generates a lot of heat and in unskilled hands can burn your paint.the orbital won't generate that level of heat and is safe in the hands of the unskilled user,the downside is that the paint correction will be at a slower rate.

Disagree on a higher skill level needed - just more respect for what you have, and how you use it, but both if used in a blasé manner, will damage paintwork.

The key to both machines, and the rotary in particular, is to start with the least aggressive combination of pad and polish, before moving to something more aggresive, to remove the swirls/scratches - and not all can be, if they're too deep.

RO's (or DA's - dual action to use an Americanism) can produce quite a bit of heat, if used at the highest speed setting and pressure applied - that's where the numpty aspect as mentioned above, comes into play. So long as you keep the pad moving over the area at a lower speed, and don't let the polish dry out (until you become much more experienced and use it to burnish the paint), you should have no problems in using a rotary to correct the paintwork.

As always, when advising anyone contemplating DIY paint correction - buy a scrap panel (bootlid/door) and practice on it with the pads and polishes, at different speeds to understand what it takes to screw up the paint, and to hone your technique to remove the defects, before starting on your own, unless you happen to be good friends with a local sprayer!