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First off, I'd like to say I'm not to be held responsible for anyone who shall work on their own amp and therefor you are responsible if something goes wrong, doesn't work properly or you fry or melt your amp while soldering. This type of small electronics soldering should only be attempted by someone who has had previous experience in this line of work. Feel free to attempt it at your own risk

you need to use an RCA jack plate from an old external CD-ROM. It was mounted on a perfectly small pc board with a short wire lead attached, and a small mounting screw. Please be sure that the RCA grounds DO NOT come in contact with the amps metal case. Mine had a metal plate that I removed to reveal plastic under the RCA grounds. The E-VOL PC board in the stock amp is located right under the cover for easy access. With the amp's connectors facing you, on the left side of the board are the inputs from the stock head unit, and onthe right side are the four speaker pre-amp outputs. FL and FR are front outputs which are believed to be highpassed at around 100hz or so. The RL and RR are the rear FULL-RANGE outputs, not high-passed, low-passed or band-passed. And the GND-S is the signal ground for all four. I used just the rear outputs to give me full-range preamp outputs to drive my whole system via a 3-way crossover. I've never once used fading so I'm not concerned about not having fade control. I will just set the levels on the amps and leave it. Besides there isn't a ton of room to mount yet another two RCA jacks. .

thanks for this must go tocsdstudio.

from is300.net

pics are below

  • 7 months later...

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