Brake Calliper Sliding Pin Overhaul On Mki

[GS Sport]

Can anyone advise on the method for replacing the rubber compressible gaiters on the brake caliper sliding pins om a GS300 MkI ? One of mine was ceased so i removed the pin and because i had new gaiters supplied with my new caliper removed the old gaiter by tapping around the join with a screwdriver. The gaiter is attached to a metal disc which fits into the end of the carrier and i thought it would just tap back in but it doesn't seem to go in very easily. For now i've got it in as far as i can get it but it's not really flush with the carrier and i'm worried water may get in.

Is there anyone who's replaced these before who can advise if I'm doing something wrong or if there is a technique to getting these in fully?

Hope someone can help :D

[GS Sport]

Can anyone advise on the method for replacing the rubber compressible gaiters on the brake caliper sliding pins om a GS300 MkI ? One of mine was ceased so i removed the pin and because i had new gaiters supplied with my new caliper removed the old gaiter by tapping around the join with a screwdriver. The gaiter is attached to a metal disc which fits into the end of the carrier and i thought it would just tap back in but it doesn't seem to go in very easily. For now i've got it in as far as i can get it but it's not really flush with the carrier and i'm worried water may get in.

Is there anyone who's replaced these before who can advise if I'm doing something wrong or if there is a technique to getting these in fully?

Hope someone can help :D

Just found one manual that suggests using a 19mm socket and hammer. Would still be interested if anyone's had any experience.

[TigerFish]

Did you find a different way mate?

[GS Sport]

Did you find a different way mate?

No other way other than the 19mm socket, will give it a go when I get chance and let you know how successful it is.

[GS Sport]

Did you find a different way mate?

Just to let you know did the job today using a 21mm socket, the 19mm doesn't fit over the sliding pin. Ended up using a brand new gater as I think I mis-shaped the other one trying to get it on and it wouldn't hold in position.

The copper grease I applied two weeks ago had dried up pretty quick though, whether it's because the gater wasn't sealed properly I don't know. Just have to keep an eye on it and make sure it doesn't start over heating again due to a ceased sliding pin.

Hope this info helps.

[TigerFish]

Glad you got them sorted mate.

Although for info when refurbing or re-greasing, lithium soap base glycol grease is the recommened grease for these parts, not copper grease.

[GS Sport]

Glad you got them sorted mate.

Although for info when refurbing or re-greasing, lithium soap base glycol grease is the recommened grease for these parts, not copper grease.

Thanks for the info, will look at changing to the correct grease.

[osteo66]

Glad you got them sorted mate.

Although for info when refurbing or re-greasing, lithium soap base glycol grease is the recommened grease for these parts, not copper grease.

Thanks for the info, will look at changing to the correct grease.

Hi,

Did you manage to regrease? I was having a look at mine over the w/end and a lower pin had seized solid. Managed to free it off and it's much improved however, when you replaced yours did you need to remove the protective rubber gaiter to pull the pin out completely or can you remove the pin without disturbing the gaiter? Would be interested to hear if you came up against any problems with the job,

Thanks,

Dave.

[TigerFish]

Glad you got them sorted mate.

Although for info when refurbing or re-greasing, lithium soap base glycol grease is the recommened grease for these parts, not copper grease.

Thanks for the info, will look at changing to the correct grease.

Hi,

Did you manage to regrease? I was having a look at mine over the w/end and a lower pin had seized solid. Managed to free it off and it's much improved however, when you replaced yours did you need to remove the protective rubber gaiter to pull the pin out completely or can you remove the pin without disturbing the gaiter? Would be interested to hear if you came up against any problems with the job,

Thanks,

Dave.

I've re-greased the sliding pins on mine quite regularly (everytime I do anything with the brakes basically) and I've not had to remove the gaitors to remove the pins. If they are solid, they can be bloody hard to get out and the gaitor can come away from its mounting collar. I'm waiting for the new pins I won on eBay to arrive and I'll be replacing a couple of the gaitors on mine when I put the new pins on. Just need to order the gaitors and also a new set of the plastic inserts that go on the sliding pins too.

[osteo66]

Glad you got them sorted mate.

Although for info when refurbing or re-greasing, lithium soap base glycol grease is the recommened grease for these parts, not copper grease.

Thanks for the info, will look at changing to the correct grease.

Hi,

Did you manage to regrease? I was having a look at mine over the w/end and a lower pin had seized solid. Managed to free it off and it's much improved however, when you replaced yours did you need to remove the protective rubber gaiter to pull the pin out completely or can you remove the pin without disturbing the gaiter? Would be interested to hear if you came up against any problems with the job,

Thanks,

Dave.

I've re-greased the sliding pins on mine quite regularly (everytime I do anything with the brakes basically) and I've not had to remove the gaitors to remove the pins. If they are solid, they can be bloody hard to get out and the gaitor can come away from its mounting collar. I'm waiting for the new pins I won on eBay to arrive and I'll be replacing a couple of the gaitors on mine when I put the new pins on. Just need to order the gaitors and also a new set of the plastic inserts that go on the sliding pins too.

Thanks TF. I can get the pin to move slightly axially but it then goes solid, didn't want to force the issue until I have a spare pin. Out of interest do you know the part numbers for the pins you've bought?

[TigerFish]

Thanks TF. I can get the pin to move slightly axially but it then goes solid, didn't want to force the issue until I have a spare pin. Out of interest do you know the part numbers for the pins you've bought?

I can check part numbers when I get home on Friday if you can wait til then.

[osteo66]

Thanks TF. I can get the pin to move slightly axially but it then goes solid, didn't want to force the issue until I have a spare pin. Out of interest do you know the part numbers for the pins you've bought?

I can check part numbers when I get home on Friday if you can wait til then.

Yup, thanks.

[TigerFish]

Thanks TF. I can get the pin to move slightly axially but it then goes solid, didn't want to force the issue until I have a spare pin. Out of interest do you know the part numbers for the pins you've bought?

Part numbers for fronts:

2 x 47715-22070 Pin, Cylinder Slide

2 x 47715-30060 Pin, Cylinder Slide

2 x 47769-50010 Bush, Cylinder Slide

2 x 47775-30070 Bush Dust

Part numbers for rears:

2 x 47715-22070 Pin, Cylinder Slide

2 x 47715-22080 Pin, Cylinder Slide

2 x 47769-50010 Bush, Cylinder Slide

2 x 47775-30070 Bush Dust

Looking at the parts, it does look like you could if needed or wanted to, use 4 pins of either type. Personally, I would use atleast one pin on each side that has the bush on it, as that would tend to stop any rattles.

[osteo66]

Thanks TF. I can get the pin to move slightly axially but it then goes solid, didn't want to force the issue until I have a spare pin. Out of interest do you know the part numbers for the pins you've bought?

Part numbers for fronts:

2 x 47715-22070 Pin, Cylinder Slide

2 x 47715-30060 Pin, Cylinder Slide

2 x 47769-50010 Bush, Cylinder Slide

2 x 47775-30070 Bush Dust

Part numbers for rears:

2 x 47715-22070 Pin, Cylinder Slide

2 x 47715-22080 Pin, Cylinder Slide

2 x 47769-50010 Bush, Cylinder Slide

2 x 47775-30070 Bush Dust

Looking at the parts, it does look like you could if needed or wanted to, use 4 pins of either type. Personally, I would use atleast one pin on each side that has the bush on it, as that would tend to stop any rattles.

TF, I've just renewed all my caliper pins and greased with lith-moly however the service guide I've got shows bushes for the upper and lower pins. The old pins I've taken out only have grooved bushes on the lower items and not the uppers - there doesn't seem to be any room to put bushes onto the upper pins. Is this right? I still have some play in the upper pins even tho they are new. Dave.

[TigerFish]

Thanks TF. I can get the pin to move slightly axially but it then goes solid, didn't want to force the issue until I have a spare pin. Out of interest do you know the part numbers for the pins you've bought?

Part numbers for fronts:

2 x 47715-22070 Pin, Cylinder Slide

2 x 47715-30060 Pin, Cylinder Slide

2 x 47769-50010 Bush, Cylinder Slide

2 x 47775-30070 Bush Dust

Part numbers for rears:

2 x 47715-22070 Pin, Cylinder Slide

2 x 47715-22080 Pin, Cylinder Slide

2 x 47769-50010 Bush, Cylinder Slide

2 x 47775-30070 Bush Dust

Looking at the parts, it does look like you could if needed or wanted to, use 4 pins of either type. Personally, I would use atleast one pin on each side that has the bush on it, as that would tend to stop any rattles.

TF, I've just renewed all my caliper pins and greased with lith-moly however the service guide I've got shows bushes for the upper and lower pins. The old pins I've taken out only have grooved bushes on the lower items and not the uppers - there doesn't seem to be any room to put bushes onto the upper pins. Is this right? I still have some play in the upper pins even tho they are new. Dave.

I only have bushes on one pin on each caliper and I'm not getting any rattles that I have noticed. There is a small amount of play, but the grease stops any metal on metal rattles, and the bush on the one pin stopping any movement of the caliper when it is all done back up.