Group Buy - Led "pulse" Brake Light Bulbs

[Jiberjaber]

Right after a fair bit of testing on Robs and my car, we have found that 3 LR are needed, the way we have done it is one 10ohm LR each side then one 6ohm LR on either side, we went for the offside.

We have it set up so as 10ohm accross the brake to earth on both sides and the 6ohm accross the side light to earth on the offside only.

This has really got me going as I had a 10ohm on each side all day yesterday and no lights at all. Came to it this morning and had the light come on.

But as stated above it is now working, no lights at all. Sorry for messing everyone around, as this has pee'd me off enough I'll let everyone else install theres how they like.

Rob can you just confirm that yours is still going good.

Cheers

Lee.

Wow this is getting complicated!.

So.... what you are saying is that:

n/s = 10 ohms

o/s = 10 and 6 ohms in parallel (which is the equivelant to about 3.75 ohms)

Is that correct? I dont have a circuit diagram of how the fault sensing works, but I guess it probably relies on either measureing the total current drawn or less likley the individual current on both n/s and o/s bulbs. If it is the total current, then a load resistor of the parallel equivelant of all the resitance you are putting on there will suffice.

I would go further to split this in to the equivelant single resistances for each side in order to manage the power dissapation easier.

Has anyone measured the current drawn through and the voltage across as follows:

n/s and o/s bulb (tail and break)

n/s and o/s LED bulb (tail and break)

From that we can work out the correct resistance to place in parallel with the LED bulb to provide a load current to simulate the original bulbs.

[Mr Morse]

If it's of any use, this is the configuration for LED indicators:

Front or rear indicators - require 1 pair 6 ohm LR's

Front AND Rear indicators - require either 1 pair 6 ohm each end or 1 pair 3 ohm LR's (easiest to fit at the rear)

[lexus_IS_200]

ok can somone explain what is needed to fit these with no lights on?

i have the teo LR's that come with the lights!

Also Mr Morse can you sort out that money into my account

cheers

[Mr Morse]

ok can somone explain what is needed to fit these with no lights on?

i have the teo LR's that come with the lights!

Also Mr Morse can you sort out that money into my account

cheers

Sure, soon as I'm back in the UK

[lee_iceman]

OK, sorry to confuse people, it may well work with 6ohm on each side, the only reason i used 10ohm was because Mike didn't have anymore 6ohm's left so I had to source some myself.

All I know is it now works and has done all day.

People are more than welcome to try any combination they want, i'm not saying the way I have done it is the correct way.

If anyone finds out a different way of fitting the LR's then please post up the info.

Cheers for finding these bulbs Mike. A very worthwhile mod.

[lexus_IS_200]

ok can somone explain what is needed to fit these with no lights on?

i have the teo LR's that come with the lights!

Also Mr Morse can you sort out that money into my account

cheers

Sure, soon as I'm back in the UK

cheers pm if u need details

[Fargo]

just add my 2pworth,, all is working with my setup..

[Rob's Lexx]

just add my 2pworth,, all is working with my setup..

which is what fella???

righty o, with the current set-up of 1 10 ohm LR each side plus 1 x 6 ohm LR on the offside, everything appears to be working well (although i havn't been out in her much today ). will keep everyone posted :D :D

[2ddesign]

Right after a fair bit of testing on Robs and my car, we have found that 3 LR are needed, the way we have done it is one 10ohm LR each side then one 6ohm LR on either side, we went for the offside.

We have it set up so as 10ohm accross the brake to earth on both sides and the 6ohm accross the side light to earth on the offside only.

This has really got me going as I had a 10ohm on each side all day yesterday and no lights at all. Came to it this morning and had the light come on.

But as stated above it is now working, no lights at all. Sorry for messing everyone around, as this has pee'd me off enough I'll let everyone else install theres how they like.

Rob can you just confirm that yours is still going good.

Cheers

Lee.

Wow this is getting complicated!.

So.... what you are saying is that:

n/s = 10 ohms

o/s = 10 and 6 ohms in parallel (which is the equivelant to about 3.75 ohms)

Is that correct? I dont have a circuit diagram of how the fault sensing works, but I guess it probably relies on either measureing the total current drawn or less likley the individual current on both n/s and o/s bulbs. If it is the total current, then a load resistor of the parallel equivelant of all the resitance you are putting on there will suffice.

I would go further to split this in to the equivelant single resistances for each side in order to manage the power dissapation easier.

Has anyone measured the current drawn through and the voltage across as follows:

n/s and o/s bulb (tail and break)

n/s and o/s LED bulb (tail and break)

From that we can work out the correct resistance to place in parallel with the LED bulb to provide a load current to simulate the original bulbs.

Hi

I found this website that has an auto calculator for working out the ohms, unfortunatly you need the current measurement Can any one measure it

Calculator

Also checking on another website it seems resistors lose their power reduction when they get too hot (pdf tech doc download) resistors

2ddesign

[Rob's Lexx]

well after 3 full days, still got no warnings lights with the current set-up :D :D

fingers crossed this is the solution :winky: :winky:

[2ddesign]

Hi All

Just to confuse matters I contacted an expert in resistors, here is what he has said after reading our posts; :)

Dear 2ddesign

Many thanks for your enquiry. I have investigated further following the links you kindly sent. I am not sure why some of the respondents set ups have worked others not? My apologies for the delay that this investigation has caused.

In a standard set up there is normally a 5 watt a 21watt filament in the rear / stop combination. It will be necessary to apply resistance across each in order that the 'lamp out' circuit is fooled. There are a number of configurations dependent on the make and model - some activate on starting, some when the foot brake is applied the first time in the journey etc. Each may have a slightly different detection process and so could answer why some configurations work in some vehicles and others do not?

Please see the attached drawing of a resistor that we sell into the motorcycle world for your reference- the value is 7.5 Ohms.

Looking at a standard tail/stop light it is usually a 5W/21W respectively. Calculation then dictates that the resistance of each circuit will be 29 ohms/ 6.8 Ohms. In each case there is a tolerance factor. However, there is also the issue of how the bulb holders are earthed and how they are connected together across the vehicle. Often the fusing dictates that if one lighting fuse blows it must keep 1 front light on and 1 rear light on (diagonally).

I would suggest that from the information you have given, 6.8 and 29 (30 ohms) will be the parts to use. However, please ensure that your tail / stop light cluster is set up for 5/21 watts as stated above before fitting.

I hope that that this information is of assistance.

Best regards

Alun Morgan

ARCOL UK LTD

http://www.arcol.co.uk/resistance-calculator.htm]Arcol Uk Ltd

What do you experts in car electrics think of the above observations

2ddesign

[Rob's Lexx]

mine works fine mate,

have you actually tried fitting as myself and lee have??

[Adie]

well after 3 full days, still got no warnings lights with the current set-up :D :D

fingers crossed this is the solution :winky: :winky:

Still not done mine yet :duh:

Hhhmmmm maybe a possible mod to do at JAE :D

[DAZA_W]

well after 3 full days, still got no warnings lights with the current set-up :D :D

fingers crossed this is the solution :winky: :winky:

Still not done mine yet :duh:

Hhhmmmm maybe a possible mod to do at JAE :D

iam with adie group fit anyone i just want to plug and play

[Mr Morse]

I'll be there on hand to help out with the fittings :D

[2ddesign]

mine works fine mate,

have you actually tried fitting as myself and lee have??

Hi

No I have not fitted any resistors on mine yet, because of the 2 variations, ie. (1) Two sets of 6ohms/50w per side or (2) 10ohm/25w and a 10ohm/25w + a 6ohm/50w on the other and talk of that method being brighter?

So now an expert says ...... "I would suggest that from the information you have given, 6.8 and 29 (30 ohms) will be the parts to use. However, please ensure that your tail / stop light cluster is set up for 5/21 watts as stated above before fitting."

Which is what the IS 200 bulbs are 5/21 watts, so a bit confused on what to do at the moment

2ddesign

[Mr Morse]

mine works fine mate,

have you actually tried fitting as myself and lee have??

Hi

No I have not fitted any resistors on mine yet, because of the 2 variations, ie. (1) Two sets of 6ohms/50w per side or (2) 10ohm/25w and a 10ohm/25w + a 6ohm/50w on the other and talk of that method being brighter?

So now an expert says ...... "I would suggest that from the information you have given, 6.8 and 29 (30 ohms) will be the parts to use. However, please ensure that your tail / stop light cluster is set up for 5/21 watts as stated above before fitting."

Which is what the IS 200 bulbs are 5/21 watts, so a bit confused on what to do at the moment

2ddesign

jack - we fitted 2 pairs of 6ohm LR's to Kazi's car, one each across the brake/earth and the sidelight/earth and he's not had a warning light at all :D

[Arcane]

Hey all,

I recently received my pulse LED's and LR's from Mike (another group buy). I'm having trouble with them.

I've installed them along with the LR's, however, I'm getting two lights on my dash. One is the exclamation mark within a circle (handbrake engaged light) and the other is a rear bulb out light. The handbrake enganged light is constantly on, whether or not the handbrake is on. The rear bulb out light is only on when switch my lights on.

I installed the LR's the same way as explained in previous posts. I've wired it as so:

White + Green Wire <---------------- LR ----------------> White + Black wire.

Is this correct? Also, it may sound dumb (don't say I didn't warn you), do the LR's have to be fitted in a certain direction (polarity)?

Any help would be appreciated. The LED's look awesome and they pulse. I just want the warning lights to go away!

Thanks in advance.

:D

[Mr Morse]

Try wiring the LR across the ground and the green wire.

No, the LR's aren't polarity sensitive.

[Arcane]

Try wiring the LR across the ground and the green wire.

No, the LR's aren't polarity sensitive.

Hey Mike, thanks for the help. I'll try that after lunch and let you know.

[lexus_IS_200]

Here are the pictures of my set up, can anyone suggest why the light on the dash is staying on?

[Adie]

I've still not fitted mine. :duh: If anybody wants them, they can have 'em for the price I paid :winky:

[lee_iceman]

Here are the pictures of my set up, can anyone suggest why the light on the dash is staying on?

Doesn't look quite right. You putting 2 LR's on each side?

One should go between the green/white - white/black, the other should be between the green - the same white/black

[lexus_IS_200]

yes what i have done is

1 LR to main headlight going from white/black other end going to white/green

2nd LR side headlight going from white/black other end going to white/green

this not right

[lee_iceman]

Other that doing that on both sides can't think of anything else it could be. Sorry