Trans Fluid Change Completed...

[cleverdick]

Hi all,

Well, the job I've been dreading is now done - and it wasn't too bad.

But I reckon you'd struggle without a hoist or pit. The hardest part was getting the pan off - it was pretty much glued on by the original rubber sealant, but gave eventually. I was able to remove the sealant from the trans body by careful use of a razor blade, and from the pan with a wire brush without damaging the powder coating. A new cork gasket and filter set were obtained from Jaggraveyard in the US (thanks Andy) - I'm glad I did get the filter because I don't see how you could clean the gauze thoroughly - most of it is obscured. Luckily, the pan and magnets were fairly clean, although there was a very fine coating of black dust in it. Cleaned up fine, though. I used a small bead of Red Hermetite round the outer edge of the gasket on both sides, so that it couldn't ooze into the pan. I'm not saying this is an approved method, but I figured that it would be better than the gasket alone. Take care when tourquing up the filter and pan bolts - the lexls tutorial states the settings. Replacing the pan was a bit tricky in terms of locating it over the upper end of the dipstick tube, but it went eventually. Just be careful not to let any debris fall into the pan whilst you're manouvreing it into position. I then refilled with about 2l of T-IV, then disconnected the cooler pipe from the rad and plugged the free end with a bolt (just in case). The lexls tutorial is slightly misleading here, because it describes the hose union on the rad cooler as an inlet. That's wrong, it's an outlet! The drain hose I used was a bit too wide, even when clamped on, so some fluid squirted back up into the engine bay. But I got there eventually, about 1l at a time. I did have to stop about 100 yards down the road and put some more fluid in, but once the correct level was obtained all was OK!

If you're thinking of doing this job, I'd strongly suggest that you: 1. Allow plenty of time - it took me about 5 hours! 2. Don't attempt on the driveway. 3. Use only T-IV ATF, even if the Toyota main dealer claims that Dexron is OK and it's what they use. 10l did cost me £90 though - ouch!

Good luck...

[andy haw]

Hi all,

Well, the job I've been dreading is now done - and it wasn't too bad.

But I reckon you'd struggle without a hoist or pit.  The hardest part was getting the pan off - it was pretty much glued on by the original rubber sealant, but gave eventually.  I was able to remove the sealant from the trans body by careful use of a razor blade, and from the pan with a wire brush without damaging the powder coating.  A new cork gasket and filter set were obtained from Jaggraveyard in the US (thanks Andy) - I'm glad I did get the filter because I don't see how you could clean the gauze thoroughly - most of it is obscured.  Luckily, the pan and magnets were fairly clean, although there was a very fine coating of black dust in it.  Cleaned up fine, though.  I used a small bead of Red Hermetite round the outer edge of the gasket on both sides, so that it couldn't ooze into the pan.  I'm not saying this is an approved method, but I figured that it would be better than the gasket alone.  Take care when tourquing up the filter and pan bolts - the lexls tutorial states the settings.  Replacing the pan was a bit tricky in terms of locating it over the upper end of the dipstick tube, but it went eventually.  Just be careful not to let any debris fall into the pan whilst you're manouvreing it into position.  I then refilled with about 2l of T-IV, then disconnected the cooler pipe from the rad and plugged the free end with a bolt (just in case).  The lexls tutorial is slightly misleading here, because it describes the hose union on the rad cooler as an inlet.  That's wrong, it's an outlet!  The drain hose I used was a bit too wide, even when clamped on, so some fluid squirted back up into the engine bay.  But I got there eventually, about 1l at a time.  I did have to stop about 100 yards down the road and put some more fluid in, but once the correct level was obtained all was OK!

If you're thinking of doing this job, I'd strongly suggest that you: 1. Allow plenty of time - it took me about 5 hours!  2. Don't attempt on the driveway. 3. Use only T-IV ATF, even if the Toyota main dealer claims that Dexron is OK and it's what they use.  10l did cost me £90 though - ouch!

Good luck... 

←

Glad to see you got it sorted Richard.

I obtained the parts and got the local garage to do the work,getting to old to work under cars these days.

With regards to the parts I order a job lot of oil filters etc etc this makes it even cheaper when ordering parts from USA even if I have to get the local garage to fit.

Nice to see some feedback,pity a lot of other members dont do the same.

[GoldfingerLS]

Hi all,

I'm new to this forum (bought an LS400 late last year). I have a Mk4 1999 LS400 and I also changed my transmission fluid this nice and sunny weekend. I did a full flush after reading the lexls tutorial. Cleverdick is right that the lexls tutorial seems slightly confusing when it refers to the hose union on the rad cooler as an inlet (one end on the rad is an inlet and the other one is an outlet). I didn't drop the pan because my car has only covered 52,000 miles so maybe a job for a later service. But the tutorial was very helpful and i replaced the fluid with 9 litres of Toyota T IV fluid.

Cleverdick - I also paid about £80 for my fluid, but ive heard that if you buy it from a Toyota dealer is it supposed to be a bit cheaper so maybe ill go to a toyota dealer next time and ask for Toyota type IV fluid.

Just one question - I put in exactly the same amount which i took out (I took out 1.5 litres and replaced 1.5 litres at a time) so the level should not have changed very much, but how do i properly check the level ? The dipstick has got a cold and a hot mark. Am i supposed to check it with the engine idling ? I just checked my trans fluid (on my level driveway) with the car stone cold since it hadnt been driven all day and it is slightly higher than the top of the Hot mark on the dipstick - is this how it is supposed to be ? I did a test drive yesterday and all seemed fine.

Any idea.

Many thanks,

Goldfinger

[andy haw]

Hi all,

I'm new to this forum (bought an LS400 late last year). I have a Mk4 1999 LS400 and I also changed my transmission fluid this nice and sunny weekend. I did a full flush after reading the lexls tutorial. Cleverdick is right that the lexls tutorial seems slightly confusing when it refers to the hose union on the rad cooler as an inlet (one end on the rad is an inlet and the other one is an outlet). I didn't drop the pan because my car has only covered 52,000 miles so maybe a job for a later service. But the tutorial was very helpful and i replaced the fluid with 9 litres of Toyota T IV fluid.

Cleverdick - I also paid about £80 for my fluid, but ive heard that if you buy it from a Toyota dealer is it supposed to be a bit cheaper so maybe ill go to a toyota dealer next time and ask for Toyota type IV fluid.

Just one question - I put in exactly the same amount which i took out (I took out 1.5 litres and replaced 1.5 litres at a time) so the level should not have changed very much, but how do i properly check the level ? The dipstick has got a cold and a hot mark. Am i supposed to check it with the engine idling ? I just checked my trans fluid (on my level driveway) with the car stone cold since it hadnt been driven all day and it is slightly higher than the top of the Hot mark on the dipstick - is this how it is supposed to be ? I did a test drive yesterday and all seemed fine.

Any idea.

Many thanks,

Goldfinger

←

The cold reading is only a guide.

The true and most accurate is to check when car is at normal running temp.

If you check the previous post under transmission flush it has the information you are after.

[cleverdick]

Hi all,

I'm new to this forum (bought an LS400 late last year). I have a Mk4 1999 LS400 and I also changed my transmission fluid this nice and sunny weekend. I did a full flush after reading the lexls tutorial. Cleverdick is right that the lexls tutorial seems slightly confusing when it refers to the hose union on the rad cooler as an inlet (one end on the rad is an inlet and the other one is an outlet). I didn't drop the pan because my car has only covered 52,000 miles so maybe a job for a later service. But the tutorial was very helpful and i replaced the fluid with 9 litres of Toyota T IV fluid.

Cleverdick - I also paid about £80 for my fluid, but ive heard that if you buy it from a Toyota dealer is it supposed to be a bit cheaper so maybe ill go to a toyota dealer next time and ask for Toyota type IV fluid.

Just one question - I put in exactly the same amount which i took out (I took out 1.5 litres and replaced 1.5 litres at a time) so the level should not have changed very much, but how do i properly check the level ? The dipstick has got a cold and a hot mark. Am i supposed to check it with the engine idling ? I just checked my trans fluid (on my level driveway) with the car stone cold since it hadnt been driven all day and it is slightly higher than the top of the Hot mark on the dipstick - is this how it is supposed to be ? I did a test drive yesterday and all seemed fine.

Any idea.

Many thanks,

Goldfinger

←

Hi Goldfinger,

I did buy the fluid from a Toyota garage (as opposed to Lexus) so was slightly shocked at the price. However, the guy assured me that the cost would have been the same.

Concerning the fluid level, I agree it's not easy to get it spot on, nor read the dipstick when the fluid is new and clear. If yours is above the hot mark when cold (with the engine idling) then you've overfilled it. However, you may be surprised at how little it takes to over or underfill the transmission - I was!

I'd suggest that using a long piece of clear tubing and a pump of some sort, you remove say 500ml from the dipstick tube. Then go for a drive for 15 minutes or so and check it again.

Keep us posted...

Rich

[simontaylor]

cleverdick, and those that have done a transmission flush....

I have had the car for 4 months, it is at 125k miles and I am planning an ATF fluid change, with flush of the box.

I'm just nervous about draining too much and getting an air lock.

When you run the motor, how fast does the old old get pumped out at.

1litre in 5 seconds or does it take more like 30 seconds.

Also, what did the old oil look like, currently my oil is red with a tint of sootyness in it, the box shifts ok, but not 100% smooth from 1-2 in Auto mode, but especially I get a big jump when N to D when cold (idling about 1200 rpm)?

AND, my current level seems VERY high. There is about 5cm difference between Low marker and High marker on the dipstick and the oil level is another 2.5cm higher than the High mark, could this be problematic at all?

Thanks for advice and comments in advance, YES, I will use Toyota Type T-IV oil.

[cleverdick]

cleverdick, and those that have done a transmission flush....

I have had the car for 4 months, it is at 125k miles and I am planning an ATF fluid change, with flush of the box.

I'm just nervous about draining too much and getting an air lock.

When you run the motor, how fast does the old old get pumped out at.

1litre in 5 seconds or does it take more like 30 seconds.

Also, what did the old oil look like, currently my oil is red with a tint of sootyness in it, the box shifts ok, but not 100% smooth from 1-2 in Auto mode, but especially I get a big jump when N to D when cold (idling about 1200 rpm)?

AND, my current level seems VERY high. There is about 5cm difference between Low marker and High marker on the dipstick and the oil level is another 2.5cm higher than the High mark, could this be problematic at all?

Thanks for advice and comments in advance, YES, I will use Toyota Type T-IV oil.

Hi Simon,

I don't think you'll have anything to worry about, providing you allow yourself time and space. I agree it does seem a daunting task but it's really not that bad if you're used to doing general maintenance on cars. Just be sure to follow the lexls tutorial. It's pretty good.

I didn't have any trouble with airlocks or such. As for the rate at which the fluid gets pumped out, I can't remember specifically, probably about 10S per litre. I used a 5l polypropylene container with 1l divisions drawn across it in permanent marker. That way it was easy to gauge how much had been pumped out and therefore needed to be put in. They say that if you overfill an autobox you may have trouble with the fluid foaming up. There may of course be a safety vent valve on the 'box, but in truth I don't know. Bear in mind though that TX fluid is HIGHLY flammable, so you don't want it running onto the exhaust or cats if it can be avoided! Getting the level spot on might take some time.

It's good to see that you intend to use T-IV, but have you got the gasket and filter too?

Best of luck,

Rich

[simontaylor]

I'm waiting on a price for filter to come from Sewell Lexus in USA, some other bits too, I'll need to get gasket sorted....thanks for the reminder.

[cleverdick]

I'm waiting on a price for filter to come from Sewell Lexus in USA, some other bits too, I'll need to get gasket sorted....thanks for the reminder.

I got the filter and gasket as a set from Jaggraveyard (also in the US). Can't remember how much, but it was quite reasonable. Not OEM though.

[swordfish]

hey guys

you might want to check this:

I had oil and filter replaced by trans. expert, and noticed big oil leaks the next 2 weeks- turned out the oil pan needed retorqing cos the cork gasket takes up and the bolts get slack. U might check and re-torque after a few days save yourself some oil and mess.

cheers

[simontaylor]

Thanks swordfish, I'll be doing that!

Especially as I hate to have oil slicks on the drive, not nice to lie in when under the car.

[ambermarine]

Hi all,

I'm new to this forum (bought an LS400 late last year). I have a Mk4 1999 LS400 and I also changed my transmission fluid this nice and sunny weekend. I did a full flush after reading the lexls tutorial. Cleverdick is right that the lexls tutorial seems slightly confusing when it refers to the hose union on the rad cooler as an inlet (one end on the rad is an inlet and the other one is an outlet). I didn't drop the pan because my car has only covered 52,000 miles so maybe a job for a later service. But the tutorial was very helpful and i replaced the fluid with 9 litres of Toyota T IV fluid.

Cleverdick - I also paid about £80 for my fluid, but ive heard that if you buy it from a Toyota dealer is it supposed to be a bit cheaper so maybe ill go to a toyota dealer next time and ask for Toyota type IV fluid.

Just one question - I put in exactly the same amount which i took out (I took out 1.5 litres and replaced 1.5 litres at a time) so the level should not have changed very much, but how do i properly check the level ? The dipstick has got a cold and a hot mark. Am i supposed to check it with the engine idling ? I just checked my trans fluid (on my level driveway) with the car stone cold since it hadnt been driven all day and it is slightly higher than the top of the Hot mark on the dipstick - is this how it is supposed to be ? I did a test drive yesterday and all seemed fine.

Any idea.

Many thanks,

Goldfinger

[ambermarine]

Hello Fellow Lexuns

I have been following the topic on transmission fluid change with some mixed feelings,I was concerned by the constant referal to the type t-1V and its implications of non application . I had my lexus looked after in the Manchester area by the same guy at a lexus dealer ship for eight years,Ihave lived in Scotland now for 4 years and have done the services myself.I contacted the Lexus dealer in Glasgow who;s workshop said they put in dexron type 111.He insisted that the lexus reccomendation stated that dexron was an acceptable alternative to toyota products.I then contacted the Mechanic who looked after my car as if it were his own and he confirmed this.He went on to say that the only difference you will notice, if at all ,is the smoother gear changethat t-1V achieves. As my Ls400 as the smoothest gear change on fluid that as done 150000 miles you could wish for I think there may be some kiddology going on from the pricing of these products.After all Toyota don't make the transmission fluid ,they commision an oil company to do that and they're hardly likely to promote something with thier name on that as a General motors trademark. Anyway I did the change using 12 litres of dexron and simply shoved a 4mm nylon tube down the dipstick and with a qwik -drain pump outfit, pumped a litre and a half out then pumped the same amount of new in. Ran round the block, repeated the process, until the colour of the fluid was as near to the new sample I started with.Total cost £28 and I did it standing up.

And no, I did'nt take off the pan or change filters in the box because to my knowledge there have been no builders or gardeners in there lousin the place up and it probably wants to be left in peace anyway.Thats not to say that it might blow up next week ,but I think the sealed system speaks for itself .By the way I changed the fluid in my power steering pump the same way, without of course the trip round the block. :)

[cleverdick]

Hello Fellow Lexuns

I have been following the topic on transmission fluid change with some mixed feelings,I was concerned by the constant referal to the type t-1V and its implications of non application . I had my lexus looked after in the Manchester area by the same guy at a lexus dealer ship for eight years,Ihave lived in Scotland now for 4 years and have done the services myself.I contacted the Lexus dealer in Glasgow who;s workshop said they put in dexron type 111.He insisted that the lexus reccomendation stated that dexron was an acceptable alternative to toyota products.I then contacted the Mechanic who looked after my car as if it were his own and he confirmed this.He went on to say that the only difference you will notice, if at all ,is the smoother gear changethat t-1V achieves. As my Ls400 as the smoothest gear change on fluid that as done 150000 miles you could wish for I think there may be some kiddology going on from the pricing of these products.After all Toyota don't make the transmission fluid ,they commision an oil company to do that and they're hardly likely to promote something with thier name on that as a General motors trademark. Anyway I did the change using 12 litres of dexron and simply shoved a 4mm nylon tube down the dipstick and with a qwik -drain pump outfit, pumped a litre and a half out then pumped the same amount of new in. Ran round the block, repeated the process, until the colour of the fluid was as near to the new sample I started with.Total cost £28 and I did it standing up.

And no, I did'nt take off the pan or change filters in the box because to my knowledge there have been no builders or gardeners in there lousin the place up and it probably wants to be left in peace anyway.Thats not to say that it might blow up next week ,but I think the sealed system speaks for itself .By the way I changed the fluid in my power steering pump the same way, without of course the trip round the block. :)

The filter and magnets are there for a reason, i.e. to trap particles of metal and friction material which inevitably accumulate through normal wear and tear. After 150k miles you can be sure that there'll be some! I understand your sentiments about wishing not to disturb things, and if you don't have access to the facilities then that's probably wise. But ultimately, the transmission is not a component that can be neglected. With hindsight I wish I'd cleaned out my solenoids too when the pan was off, but where does one stop, short of a full rebuild?

The Lexus mechanic who claimed that Dexron is OK should be struck off. It's most definitely NOT OK, apart from in the PAS pump where it is specified. TII was originally specified for the trans and has now been superseded by TIV-and improved and updated variant. The frictional properties of Dexron are quite different. Having used the 'dilution' method, there will still be plenty of TII left in your gearbox. Who knows how it will mix with Dexron and what the long-term effects will be? I hate to sound pessimistic, but you could be looking at complete transmission failure before long if you don't get that flushed out and replaced with the proper stuff ASAP.

There are no shortcuts when it comes to working on these cars. Use genuine parts, do the job thoroughly and it will most surely pay off.

[cleverdick]

You may wish to read this post from a similar thread on the US forum:

mann777 Feb 21 2006, 01:42 AM Post #15

New Club Member

Group: Members

Posts: 13

Joined: 20-November 05

Member No.: 21,708

Car Model:LS400- 1994

Location:HOUSTON

I was a toyota chemical engineer working in the fluids engineering in Japan quite some years back ( 1994-1997 ) and I should say this all you guys having different opinions to the transmission fluid. Ok here is how it goes, When lexus was launched the transmission fluid to be used was given a great importance, looking at the engine and gears running at various speeds. The oil made for the toyota engines was made and specially formulated and selected from a highly refined base stocks and compounds and additives of special nature were added after years of research to enhance oxidation and thermal stabilty, friction control, load carrying capability, corrosion and wear protection and low foam tendency. The viscosities were measured under various tempratures until the flash point . Now coming to the lexus cars finally toyota derived a special formulation to protect its engines and work to its optimum and thus they got the results with being the quitest and smoothest engine ever built using these fluids. We as manufaturers not from the marketing point of view but from the engineering point ensure these are to be used across our network worldwide. Now you as consumers expect the same results. There are few who do not have the patience to use the OEM stuff and go to the nearest gas station and service with various other oils and do not know the repurcussion on long term use how they can affect the funtions of the engines. I forgot to add also note during the test level the decibel level is calculated on the engine running and using various composition of the fluids. Toyota engineering have then come to the conclusion . Now as the years go by the fluids are upgraded, that does not mean they cannot be used on older cars, they are most compatible. The upgrades are done to improve sludge resistance, oxidation stability,increased energy densities and shifting performance. ANd lastly i should say this Many service fluids curentlly in the market simply do not provide the level of performance that is now required. I hope you all continue to use Type iv OEM and it does make a hell of lot diiference.

[davepruce]

Adding to an old thread I know - but its just a bit more knowledge for the forum in the right place.

Had my autotrans fluid changed at the weekend by a local (Dartford, Kent) auto gearbox company. They changed 100% of the fluid by the usual method of disconnecting the pipes at the front and just running the engine (in laymans terms that is - probably a bit more techy than that!!)

The retail cost is around £125 for the whole job, and what a difference it has made! Much smoother changes is the most noticeable, and the result of that is that all appears to be quicker.

Dave

[AKY-B]

You may wish to read this post from a similar thread on the US forum:

mann777 Feb 21 2006, 01:42 AM Post #15

New Club Member

Group: Members

Posts: 13

Joined: 20-November 05

Member No.: 21,708

Car Model:LS400- 1994

Location:HOUSTON

I was a toyota chemical engineer working in the fluids engineering in Japan quite some years back ( 1994-1997 ) and I should say this all you guys having different opinions to the transmission fluid. Ok here is how it goes, When lexus was launched the transmission fluid to be used was given a great importance, looking at the engine and gears running at various speeds. The oil made for the toyota engines was made and specially formulated and selected from a highly refined base stocks and compounds and additives of special nature were added after years of research to enhance oxidation and thermal stabilty, friction control, load carrying capability, corrosion and wear protection and low foam tendency. The viscosities were measured under various tempratures until the flash point . Now coming to the lexus cars finally toyota derived a special formulation to protect its engines and work to its optimum and thus they got the results with being the quitest and smoothest engine ever built using these fluids. We as manufaturers not from the marketing point of view but from the engineering point ensure these are to be used across our network worldwide. Now you as consumers expect the same results. There are few who do not have the patience to use the OEM stuff and go to the nearest gas station and service with various other oils and do not know the repurcussion on long term use how they can affect the funtions of the engines. I forgot to add also note during the test level the decibel level is calculated on the engine running and using various composition of the fluids. Toyota engineering have then come to the conclusion . Now as the years go by the fluids are upgraded, that does not mean they cannot be used on older cars, they are most compatible. The upgrades are done to improve sludge resistance, oxidation stability,increased energy densities and shifting performance. ANd lastly i should say this Many service fluids curentlly in the market simply do not provide the level of performance that is now required. I hope you all continue to use Type iv OEM and it does make a hell of lot diiference.

HI should i use toyota type iv for my 2002 ls430 as well?.and how many litres?.any help appreciated.

[GoldfingerLS]

As far as I know the 2000 to 2004 (Mk1) LS430s have got the 5 speed A650E transmission which is the same as the Mk4 LS400 and this takes type IV fluid.

For owners for the (Mk2) LS430 from 2004 onwards the correct fluid is the WS (World Standard) fluid.

Always best to double check with the dealer too.

[AKY-B]

As far as I know the 2000 to 2004 (Mk1) LS430s have got the 5 speed A650E transmission which is the same as the Mk4 LS400 and this takes type IV fluid.

For owners for the (Mk2) LS430 from 2004 onwards the correct fluid is the WS (World Standard) fluid.

Always best to double check with the dealer too.

Thanks.

[Lexmanic]

I'm bumping this topic up cos it's important innit

[runsgrateasanut]

Interesting old thread this. I'm having an Auto box fliter change shortly and seem to recall my mechanic saying soemthing about the flexible tubes needing replacement. I suspect that these are manufactured attached to the metal pipes? Does anyone know if the rubber part can be bought and fitted seperately or is it a mortgage to get the pipes from Lexus.?

At present I'm not keen that the pipe to the Radiator be disturbed as I know the possiblity of failure internal to the Rad.

[runsgrateasanut]

Found this parts listing and pricing on toyo. Bit puzzled by cost of 32921D $70.85 for a piece of rubber hose?? 32922 price €11.40 looks more realistic, but....?

Trying to fathom what I need from this list which is difficult without an exploded image. Anyone got an image of the oil cooler system to Auto box?

Thanks

03/1993 LEXUS LS400 (UCF10R-AEPGKW) my cars ▼
EUR SED RHD 1UZFE HTWC 4FC Powertrain / Chassis 35-14: OIL COOLER & TUBE (ATM), page 1 of 2...

Search parts:

('8912-   ) , A341E,A342E Next >

32921 TUBE, OIL COOLER INLET, NO.1 32921-50012 1 € 48.19 32921C UNION(FOR OIL COOLER TUBE) 90404-16029 INLET 1 € 9.32 90407-16009 OUTLET 1 € 38.97 32921D HOSE(FOR OIL COOLER INLET) 32941-50011 1 € 70.85 32921G RING, O(FOR OIL COOLER TUBE UNION) 90301-11006 2 € 3.10 32922 TUBE, OIL COOLER OUTLET, NO.1 32922-50012 1 € 48.19 32922A HOSE(FOR OIL COOLER OUTLET) 90445-17100 1 € 11.40 32923B CLAMP, AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION OIL COOLER TUBE, NO.1 32923-50010 1 € 7.10 32923C CLAMP, AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION OIL COOLER TUBE, NO.4 32924-50011 1 € 10.88 32924 CLAMP, OIL COOLER TUBE, NO.2 32923-50022 1 € 8.51 32925 CLAMP, OIL COOLER TUBE, NO.3 90462-12074 2 € 5.75 32926 CUSHION, OIL COOLER TUBE(ATM) 32926-30020 L=35, ID=10, TRAILER SPEC 4 € 1.66 32926-50010 L=35, ID=12 2 € 2.96 90467-16013 *** STD. PART € 2.44 91611-60610 *** STD. PART € 0.67 91611-60812 *** STD. PART € 0.81

[steve2006]

Found this parts listing and pricing on toyo. Bit puzzled by cost of 32921D $70.85 for a piece of rubber hose?? 32922 price €11.40 looks more realistic, but....?

Trying to fathom what I need from this list which is difficult without an exploded image. Anyone got an image of the oil cooler system to Auto box?

Thanks

03/1993 LEXUS LS400 (UCF10R-AEPGKW) my cars ▼

EUR SED RHD 1UZFE HTWC 4FC Powertrain / Chassis 35-14: OIL COOLER & TUBE (ATM), page 1 of 2...

Search parts:

('8912-   ) , A341E,A342E Next >

32921 TUBE, OIL COOLER INLET, NO.1 32921-50012 1 € 48.19 32921C UNION(FOR OIL COOLER TUBE) 90404-16029 INLET 1 € 9.32 90407-16009 OUTLET 1 € 38.97 32921D HOSE(FOR OIL COOLER INLET) 32941-50011 1 € 70.85 32921G RING, O(FOR OIL COOLER TUBE UNION) 90301-11006 2 € 3.10 32922 TUBE, OIL COOLER OUTLET, NO.1 32922-50012 1 € 48.19 32922A HOSE(FOR OIL COOLER OUTLET) 90445-17100 1 € 11.40 32923B CLAMP, AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION OIL COOLER TUBE, NO.1 32923-50010 1 € 7.10 32923C CLAMP, AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION OIL COOLER TUBE, NO.4 32924-50011 1 € 10.88 32924 CLAMP, OIL COOLER TUBE, NO.2 32923-50022 1 € 8.51 32925 CLAMP, OIL COOLER TUBE, NO.3 90462-12074 2 € 5.75 32926 CUSHION, OIL COOLER TUBE(ATM) 32926-30020 L=35, ID=10, TRAILER SPEC 4 € 1.66 32926-50010 L=35, ID=12 2 € 2.96 90467-16013 *** STD. PART € 2.44 91611-60610 *** STD. PART € 0.67 91611-60812 *** STD. PART € 0.81

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