Putting life back into a 'modded' IS250

[DnG]

12 minutes ago, H3XME said:

Lasts 100,000miles.. if you cut corners then you’ll end up with the same car you picked up

If there was 0 chance of anything relating to the cooling system going wrong then I get it, but when there’s a radiator that cracks (saw a lot of people online with the radiators cracked, that’s how I got the idea), hoses that can crack and seals that go bad especially on a car that’s nearly 20 years old and you can loose the entire 9.1L of that good stuff, then that’s a bit much for a consumable. 

I guess, for like, everything in this world, we just have to shut up and suck it up… 

[Linas.P]

Well it is not so much that... Water pump last ~60k miles, so that coolant last 100k is kind of irrelevant. 

Problem here is that red and pink coolant should not mix. You can mix both of them with water, but not red with the pink (long story, but one is organic acid another one is inorganic). So basically if car came with pink coolant, you want to replace it with pink coolant. Or you need to flush entire system carefully and repeatedly until you make sure there is no pink coolant left, and then fully fill it with red coolant.

It is like you don't mix dot 4 and dot 5 brake fluids (on is glycol another one is silicon). Same here with the coolants. Also red coolant is significantly shorter life - 2 years 30k miles vs. 5 years 150k miles (again kind of pointless considering water pump needs replacing every 60k and also Toyota recommends full coolant replacement at 100k and then 60k thereafter). 

There is a difference in their performance, lubricity, corrosion inhibition etc. Using red coolant will reduce your water pump life to 30k as well. Also kind of seemingly small point, but surprisingly important. Red coolant should be mixed with very pure water, if you mix it with tap water it will clog the engine (it sort of leaves white residue), pink coolant is better in that regard and protects the engine better. Meaning that to change pink coolant you can simply flush old coolant with tap water and you be alright, whatever trace amount of water is left the coolant will deal with it. Red coolant you need to flush either with distilled/desalinated water or just more red coolant itself. So it works out cheaper to use pink coolant, unless car already has red. 

Anyway... I do appreciate we are going way too deep into issues that is relatively minor in grand scheme of things at the moment... and for somebody that does not work on the cars or does not work on Japanese cars this sort of knowledge is not needed... I am just baffled that JDM garage seems to not know the difference, or not care.  

[DnG]

2 hours ago, Linas.P said:

Well it is not so much that... Water pump last ~60k miles, so that coolant last 100k is kind of irrelevant. 

Problem here is that red and pink coolant should not mix. You can mix both of them with water, but not red with the pink (long story, but one is organic acid another one is inorganic). So basically if car came with pink coolant, you want to replace it with pink coolant. Or you need to flush entire system carefully and repeatedly until you make sure there is no pink coolant left, and then fully fill it with red coolant.

It is like you don't mix dot 4 and dot 5 brake fluids (on is glycol another one is silicon). Same here with the coolants. Also red coolant is significantly shorter life - 2 years 30k miles vs. 5 years 150k miles (again kind of pointless considering water pump needs replacing every 60k and also Toyota recommends full coolant replacement at 100k and then 60k thereafter). 

There is a difference in their performance, lubricity, corrosion inhibition etc. Using red coolant will reduce your water pump life to 30k as well. Also kind of seemingly small point, but surprisingly important. Red coolant should be mixed with very pure water, if you mix it with tap water it will clog the engine (it sort of leaves white residue), pink coolant is better in that regard and protects the engine better. Meaning that to change pink coolant you can simply flush old coolant with tap water and you be alright, whatever trace amount of water is left the coolant will deal with it. Red coolant you need to flush either with distilled/desalinated water or just more red coolant itself. So it works out cheaper to use pink coolant, unless car already has red. 

Anyway... I do appreciate we are going way too deep into issues that is relatively minor in grand scheme of things at the moment... and for somebody that does not work on the cars or does not work on Japanese cars this sort of knowledge is not needed... I am just baffled that JDM garage seems to not know the difference, or not care.  

I will do a flush with distilled water or how it’s called at Tesco’s de-ionised water and add the proper pink coolant but it has to be next month or the next, the car needs a ton of money for things that it needs to actually be a decent car, I’m hoping whatever coolant he decides to use will do for the next 1-2 months 

[H3XME]

8 hours ago, DnG said:

I will do a flush with distilled water or how it’s called at Tesco’s de-ionised water and add the proper pink coolant but it has to be next month or the next, the car needs a ton of money for things that it needs to actually be a decent car, I’m hoping whatever coolant he decides to use will do for the next 1-2 months 

You regretting the purchase yet? By the time you're done fixing the issues, you could've had a very nice SE-L with lowish miles.😅

[DnG]

Ok so I'm finally back with an update, and I'm bringing good news!

Got the car back from my mechanic, OEM water pump, belt and radiator (aftermarket) are now fitted. Coolant seems to be pink, but forgot to ask what exactly he put in it, will do a flush and add the toyota super long life soon just to be safe.

Swapped the leaky coil with the chineasium one for now, and hear this, they're TEIN Street Advance Z, not sure if they're the bottom of the barrel, the middle or the top of the top but at least they're name brand, will try and get it rebuilt soon just need to sort my life out a bit (and fix the dented rim first).

He also MacGyver 2 pins to the VVTi solenoid as he noticed I took the connector off. He cleared the codes and boom, check vsc cleared and no new errors, so my main problem was just from 2 loose wires on the VVTi solenoid, got a connector on the way and will do it properly once I get it.

So yeah, like my mechanics said, "not a total leamon", just need to fix it slowly, bit by bit. Now what's left is to refurb the rims, add 2 valved mufflers with a stainless steel split pipe, do a proper full service with an engine flush and hopefully change the oil in the gearbox. The body work and missing panels I'm not too bothered about for now, I'll get to those once I have free time and now.

 

[Linas.P]

4 hours ago, DnG said:

but forgot to ask what exactly he put in it

Or just ask him... and if it is Toyota pink, then leave it where it is 🙂

Regarding connector - it was quite obvious once you realised the wires were loose, but I am glad it fixed your issue. 

[DnG]

So the connector came, and besides from being grey rather than black, it works fine.

Also, managed to get a replacement damper from TEIN for £156 with next day delivery. Apparently they can't service the shock on the Street Advance Z's.

[Linas.P]

32 minutes ago, DnG said:

So the connector came, and besides from being grey rather than black, it works fine.

Also, managed to get a replacement damper from TEIN for £156 with next day delivery. Apparently they can't service the shock on the Street Advance Z's.

Just a note here - Shocks you need to replace in pairs. So if I were you - I would either do both sides, or none until I have money to do both. 

[GMB]

Absolutely right. It would be unsafe to just replace one, the car will be unbalanced.  Similar to replacing tyres in pairs on the same axle. Not illegal here but it is in France and it would void your insurance, maybe they know better.

[H3XME]

It will be fine.. They're coilovers. Everything is the same, same brand, same preload, same spring rates. Once that one settles in, there should be no inbalance.

[GMB]

Hope you are right. I suppose if the old coilover is not too old and is the same brand then less of a risk🤞

[Linas.P]

1 hour ago, GMB said:

Hope you are right. I suppose if the old coilover is not too old and is the same brand then less of a risk🤞

Not too sure - if one was leaking and collapsed then chances are, other one is close to failing. So one will be near failed, other one brand new. 

If it would be one old + one rebuilt... not ideal of course, better to rebuild both, but I would say at least they are both used. 

I guess, the argument can be that the failure was due to damage and not due to wear, tear and age, one wheel hit something, that is what caused it fail. But it is rare for shock to fail this way.

Clearly perfection is not the goal here. Anyhow - my job is to say what is correct way of doing it, OP can then take that info and decides what works for him. Would I do that on my car - no I wouldn't. 

There are something's that are just bad practice - mixed tyres, replacing one one shock... etc. People still do it and most of the time it's fine... until it isn't. 

[DnG]

Thank you all for the input, I don't think I've actually said this before, but thanks.

I will just get the one damper for now. Yes, they are exactly the same make and model, probably been in the warehouse for a while and I’m estimating the ones on the car to be around 3 years old (also taking into account that the car sat for 1 year)

The car needs a lot of work as it is and I’ve got some personal stuff that decided to pop up that require most of my finances, so I don’t have the luxury of a big budget and I need the car to aid with my personal problem.

I’ve driven the car a while both on the motorway and city roads for a bit with the cheap damper on and it’s not the best experience but it’s much better than having the blown shock. Doesn’t feel unsafe or unbearable to drive, I drove cars that were actual piles of **** and really unsafe, so my tolerance to what feels safe/‘driveable’ might be much lower. So considering, having the matching coilover should be an improvement to the current mixed setup.

I will eventually try and get all 4 coilovers changed to a more adjustable set of Teins or BC when the situation and wallet allows.

I did learn a lot about coilovers, but sometimes we just have to make decisions based on multiple factors outside of our control. Good thing I made this topic, I can always come back to it whenever I get to that point 😁

[DnG]

So, since Tein won’t rebuild my coilover I had to get a replacement. They sent the damper only and now I have to put it together. Since the old suspension’s dust boot is pretty much gone, Tein said I need to use my original one so I have to buy one.. also, I just noticed that it also needs a bump stop and the old suspension doesn’t have one so where do I even get one from..? Does anyone know how to put one of these together so I can actually find out what parts I need? I will try and put it together tomorrow and see what parts the old suspension has and which it doesn’t.

[scudney]

Hello George so how is your project getting on?

[DnG]

On 11/12/2024 at 1:59 PM, scudney said:

Hello George so how is your project getting on?

Hey, it's going alright, about £1.200 lighter but got plenty done. Car drives fine, a few knocks here and there but can't say it isn't reliable, I've put about ~700 miles since I got it.

- Refurbed and repainted the wheels
- New water pump and radiator
- Fixed the VVTi sensor (replaced the plug)
- Replaced Tein damper
- Bought a set of valved mufflers (still need to get the stainless split pipe and weld the mufflers on)
- Replaced shifter light bulb to LED
- Changed all dome lights to LED
- Smoked dynamic side turn signals
- Added the missing fog light connector
- Added RGB LEDs to the fog lights (of course only have them set to white/yellow)
- Lexus logo door puddle lights (left passenger door has the wiring missing, need to get the panel off to have a look)
- Got some interior ambient lights, didn't get the chance or time to install them

What's currently left from what I have planned is:
- Go to a company that can identify the colour on the car
- Replace from bumper with 4IS style bumper
- Replace rear diffuser with LED diffuser and install it properly + install the rear bumper properly + replace left side bracket
- After wheel refurb car pulls to the left and I have to fight it on the motorway to stay straight, try and get an alignment and get all the bushings checked
- Replace taillights with dynamic ones, VLANDS have their turn signals on the sides and people seem to not notice them (been told by a few)
- Mount mufflers + stailness back split pipe
- Get an android head unit (might need the facelift vents to have it all fit properly)
- Get a set of 70mai dashcams
- Install a starter killswitch
- Find out why and how to fix the dashboard showing slightly higher readings on speed, revs and temp
- Install ambient lighting, underglow, starlight headliner (change interior headliner and pillars to alcantara suede)
- Wrap the trims
- Fix cracked dashboard
- Fix rear seat tear
- Rear calipers guide pins keep coming out so need to get a full kit to replace on both sides

So yeah, fixed a lot to make it usable but still need a lot to make it pretty

[scudney]

Well you seem to be happy and all seems to be going well 👍

[Linas.P]

16 hours ago, DnG said:

- Install a starter killswitch
- Find out why and how to fix the dashboard showing slightly higher readings on speed, revs and temp
- Rear calipers guide pins keep coming out so need to get a full kit to replace on both sides

Would say waste of time - not exactly "popular" car for thieves... although ex-mine got stolen at something like 218k miles (qas quite a surprise). 

Speed is +10% standard, revs and temps on other hand should be bang on. 

So your pins are lacking the clip? Temp solution - just put any wire and bend it. Because it can cause real disaster if they come out when driving. Obviously, get proper clip to fix it.

[J Henderson]

£15 for a Pad fitting kit

[DnG]

34 minutes ago, Linas.P said:

Would say waste of time - not exactly "popular" car for thieves... although ex-mine got stolen at something like 218k miles (qas quite a surprise). 

Speed is +10% standard, revs and temps on other hand should be bang on. 

So your pins are lacking the clip? Temp solution - just put any wire and bend it. Because it can cause real disaster if they come out when driving. Obviously, get proper clip to fix it.

I know but being that it's modified, in Birmingham you ocasionally get those kids that know how to steal them and they just want to take it on a joy ride or a meet and dump it afterwards, so better be safe than sorry.

I noticed when using Waze, apple maps or Google maps, they show a nearly 5mph difference than what my gauge is showing. Car might be showing that I'm doing 40 but the GPS says I'm doing 34-36.

I think the clips are missing, only had a small look when I had the wheels taken off for refurb but as @J Henderson pointed out, the full kit is only £15 so I'll just get that.

I'm currently in the process of moving houses and I'm not sure where I'll move (hence why I want to install the killswitch just in case) or if I'll have a driveway or not but once I'm done with this headache I'll get back to fixing the car and I'm hoping I'll find a house with a driveway so I can have plenty of space to work on it properly.

Waiting for Halfords black friday to get a set of 4T axle stands (just to be on the safe side, they're cheap anyway) and a low profile 3T jack (again, safe side and I heard they're really good and last for years compared to the 2T or 1.5T) and I'm frequently going to car boot sales to build up a decent tool box 😄

  

24 minutes ago, J Henderson said:

£15 for a Pad fitting kit

I saw the exact same kit but now I've also seen one for £30, is there a difference between them?

 

[Linas.P]

42 minutes ago, DnG said:

I know but being that it's modified, in Birmingham you ocasionally get those kids that know how to steal them and they just want to take it on a joy ride or a meet and dump it afterwards, so better be safe than sorry.

I think you have this mixed-up... kids who joy ride the cars have no chance of stealing Lexus... it is way too complicated and sophisticated. No brute force would start it and those are not the types that drive around with sophisticated computers and relay kits. The people who steal Lexus quite easily (IS250 is vulnerable for relay attacks) are not those kids who joyride the cars and 15 years old Lexus does not interest them at all. Being modified it is even worse for them. So my advise would be - do no cause issues for yourself for something that isn't a realistic risk. It is wrong car, wrong age and not all modified JDM are the same.

When ex-mine IS250 was stolen we concluded it was probably scrapper who did it. Family member I gave it to was away for a month and was in like shared household and they asked him to move the car from the drive way, he moved it down the street a little bit and it was autumn, so car quickly go covered with leaves and probably looked abandoned, we reckon somebody went past with trailer, noticed what looked like abandoned car (he also took the Battery out so that it doesn't die when he is away, so no alarm) and they simply it loaded-up and left.

Now sure - starter kill switch would be easy to make and would not mess up electricity much as it is single cable that goes directly from Battery positive. Just put in extra starter relay there, 12V switch and that is all it needs. Still - waste of time in my opinion. 

42 minutes ago, DnG said:

I noticed when using Waze, Apple maps or Google maps, they show a nearly 5mph difference than what my gauge is showing. Car might be showing that I'm doing 40 but the GPS says I'm doing 34-36.

That is exactly what it should be showing. On standard 17" 245/45 it is exactly 10%, on standard 18" 255/40 it is maybe 7-8%, because the tyre circumference works out 2% higher, so that cancels out. That is why I was always happy to do 80MPH indicated past all the cameras etc. because I know it is at most like 73MPH.

Obviously, it depends what sizes are the aftermarket wheels and tyres on your car, but ~5MPH sounds right. 

[DnG]

13 minutes ago, Linas.P said:

I think you have this mixed-up... kids who joy ride the cars have no chance of stealing Lexus... it is way too complicated and sophisticated. No brute force would start it and those are not the types that drive around with sophisticated computers and relay kits. The people who steal Lexus quite easily (IS250 is vulnerable for relay attacks) are not those kids who joyride the cars and 15 years old Lexus does not interest them at all. Being modified it is even worse for them. So my advise would be - do no cause issues for yourself for something that isn't a realistic risk. It is wrong car, wrong age and not all modified JDM are the same.

Wasn't the IS250 immobilizer cracked back in 2007? And the key seems to have a lot of range even when indoors. When I was swapping the fob I kept opening the boot and that was from the other side of the house upstairs, so they shouldn't need more than a small Raspberry PI and an antena to clone the key signal especially when the car has keyless entry and the key/car pings frequently. Anyway, you might be right, at the end of the day it depends where exactly I'm moving to and how lucky I am. I remember when shopping for an IS250 a lot of insurers classed the car in some special category and wouldn't insure it unless it had an aftermarket approved immobilizer.

13 minutes ago, Linas.P said:

That is exactly what it should be showing. On standard 17" 245/45 it is exactly 10%, on standard 18" 255/40 it is maybe 7-8%, because the tyre circumference works out 2% higher, so that cancels out. That is why I was always happy to do 80MPH indicated past all the cameras etc. because I know it is at most like 73MPH.

Obviously, it depends what sizes are the aftermarket wheels and tyres on your car, but ~5MPH sounds right. 

Fair enough. The only car I used GPS in is my F10 on standard 17'' wheels and it was always spot on with what the car was showing. Also, the car is on 235/40 18'', 255/40 18'' are standard on the car? I was thinking about bigger wall tyres, the ones currently on the car aren't as comfortable.

[Linas.P]

37 minutes ago, DnG said:

Wasn't the IS250 immobilizer cracked back in 2007? And the key seems to have a lot of range even when indoors. When I was swapping the fob I kept opening the boot and that was from the other side of the house upstairs, so they shouldn't need more than a small Raspberry PI and an antena to clone the key signal especially when the car has keyless entry and the key/car pings frequently. Anyway, you might be right, at the end of the day it depends where exactly I'm moving to and how lucky I am. I remember when shopping for an IS250 a lot of insurers classed the car in some special category and wouldn't insure it unless it had an aftermarket approved immobilizer.

Fair enough. The only car I used GPS in is my F10 on standard 17'' wheels and it was always spot on with what the car was showing. Also, the car is on 235/40 18'', 255/40 18'' are standard on the car? I was thinking about bigger wall tyres, the ones currently on the car aren't as comfortable.

IS250 already has "tachman compatible" immobiliser and that is it... putting aftermarket immobiliser in IS250 would be real pain. No - I don't believe it was cracked... ever. Also that is not how relay attack work, it does not need any cracking, it simply boosts key signal and car thinks key is inside. Besides the key range to unlock is completely different thing from immobiliser, one is handled by key antenna on the outside, the other is by ID code box internally. Long story short - boosting key signal is simple case of playing around with radio signals. Raspberry pie - this comes into CAN BUS hack, but that does not work on IS250, only on ~2016+ models.

Yes - 235/40 would explain why your difference even higher than normal. as that would work out even smaller than 225/45 on 17s. That said 255 and 245 are absolute overkill for IS250 and totally unnecessary. I would go square 225 all around for nice RWD balance. 225/235 for completely neutral balance. Going for a thicker sidewall may be good choice. 

[J Henderson]

1 hour ago, DnG said:

I saw the exact same kit but now I've also seen one for £30, is there a difference between them?

The £15 one comes with some "R" clips (which you won't need), but also appears to include a sachet of pad grease.

For reference, you can get a genuine fitting kit from amayama for £25 delivered. Thats what I did, but would've just got that £15 set had I known about it beforehand.

The price on lexuspartsdirect.co.uk (£80) is what made me resort to importing.

[DnG]

On 11/14/2024 at 4:15 PM, J Henderson said:

The £15 one comes with some "R" clips (which you won't need), but also appears to include a sachet of pad grease.

For reference, you can get a genuine fitting kit from amayama for £25 delivered. Thats what I did, but would've just got that £15 set had I known about it beforehand.

The price on lexuspartsdirect.co.uk (£80) is what made me resort to importing.

Ok so after installing them there's quite a big difference between the OEM and the £15 ones.

The £15 ones have a much thinner head and smaller holes where the clips go into. Also, with the OEMs, the head sits vertically with the small pin hole downwards where as £15 ones have to sit horizontally in order for the pin hole to be facing down and be able to put the clip in. I had to scrape a bit of the caliper and hammer the pin in a bit because of the head position and it being thin, I doubt they'll last for long. So for anyone looking at buying those, just get propper ones and make sure to check if the head is thick and the pin holes for the clips is oriented vertically down with the orientation of the pin head. Found OEM looking ones on AliExpress and they seem like better quality tbh.

OEM look                                                       £15 eBay