Putting life back into a 'modded' IS250

[DnG]

So, as some of you here might know, I have finally bought an IS250 after months of searching which I've documented in this thread:

So now, the fun begins!

This topic will be used to document and mainly asking for help in restoring this IS250.

Here is a the 'project' in question (blurred the plate since it still has the previous owner's private plate):

 

[DnG]

So, the first order of business. I scanned the car with my OBD tool and got these errors from it:

Car Scanner ELM OBD2
Version: 1.111.7/1.111.7/iOS
DTC report
Connection profile: Lexus OBD-II / EOBD ~2006-2009 CAN + extra sensorsDate: 02/10/2024 16:07:35
============================
OBD-IIOBD-II
DTCs: 1
----------------------------
P0020 [0x0020]
Camshaft position (CMP) actuator, intake/left/front, bank 2 - circuit malfunction
Camshaft Position Actuator Intake/Left/Front, Bank 2 Circuit Malfunction
Status: Confirmed
============================
Engine control unit #1Engine control unit #1
DTCs: 1
----------------------------
P0020 [0x0020]
Camshaft position (CMP) actuator, intake/left/front, bank 2 - circuit malfunction
Camshaft Position Actuator Intake/Left/Front, Bank 2 Circuit Malfunction
Status: Confirmed
============================
Transmission control unit #1
No DTC found.
============================
ABS control unit #2ABS control unit #2
DTCs: 2
----------------------------
C1201 [0x5201]
Engine Control System Malfunction (VCS lamp ON-RX3) or ECM/TCM malfunction / 51
Status: Confirmed
----------------------------
C1241 [0x5241]
IG Power Source Circuit (MR, Cel.)
Status: Confirmed
============================
Power steeringPower steering
DTCs: 2
----------------------------
C1201 [0x5201]
Engine Control System Malfunction (VCS lamp ON-RX3) or ECM/TCM malfunction / 51
Status: Confirmed
----------------------------
C1241 [0x5241]
IG Power Source Circuit (MR, Cel.)
Status: Confirmed
============================
Steering (EMPS/EHPS/PPS)
No DTC found.

(Wish the forum had a "Spoiler" option)

So the main and only error as far as I can tell, is P0020, which should, in theory, be the camshaft position sensors. Also, from a bit of googling it looks like whenever there's a small problem with either the engine/components or the gearbox, the car decides to turn on the VSC light and turn off all it's systems (traction control, abs etc, if I'm wrong please do let me know), so in theory if the P0020 is fixed, it should sort itself out. What sensors do I need to change? He previous owner tried to show me telling me I can do it myself but I didn't want to hear it and wanted to go to a mechanic, so is it a simple job? What sensors do I need?

 

Also, there's a set of coilovers that the previous owner gave me, not sure how much they were or even if they're any good:

How much would a mechanic ask for changing these out? Are they even worth putting on? Wished they were purple lol

[Linas.P]

I would advise to put those "coilovers" back on eBay where they belong. The only thing you going to achieve is ruining the ride of the car (even worse than 100k miles leaking originals). Honestly, these chinese "coilovers" are trash (I give them that - their names are creative - MaX Peeding Rods anyone?), they hard, they crash over the bumps and they are not even safe, because even smallest bump on the road upsets the balance of the car and they fail to bring the tyres back to contact to the road... basically it makes care all "fidgety" in corners. 

I mean sure - one thing they achieve is lowering the car, so if that is the only goal, or to get front and rear sort of level (as they have adjustment), they will work. These are "coilovers" for show car that sits on the stage, but they suck when driving on the street.

So you better of just getting original shocks, if needed you can get appropriate lowering springs and just put them on original shocks. If you want coilovers that actually work, then they will be very expensive - something like BC Racing or Tein... they would be £1,000-£1,500.

For codes (and generally considering how many issues you car has) - you need to refer to workshop manual (PM me if you need help with finding one).

P0020 means it is bank 2, so the first step in troubleshooting, I would advise to swap sensor from bank 1 to bank 2. If error moves with the sensor (becomes P0010), then this is sensor issue, if it doesn't then it is either ECU or wiring issue, if it doubles, then it is also a wiring issue (basically on one side you will have faulty sensor, on other side you have faulty wiring). Else you need to check wave form of sensors and ECU with oscilloscope (I assume that is little bit advanced).

C1201 is nightmare, it could be almost anything on the car, it basically says your ECU does not know what is going on (comms failure), could be bad ECU, could be short somewhere... it is mess. It could be just triggered because of the short on cam circuit or short sensor as it shorts 5V on ECU... quick check would be to disconnect cam sensor and see if it at least clears C1201... if not then you in the world of pain.

C1201 in your case may be triggered by C1241, it complaints that voltage is low on positive... could be bad Battery, blown fuse, wiring (the positive terminal was messed with, start form there, maybe some muppet just forgot to fit/connect voltage sensor). 

If there is one thing you don't want on IS250 are electrical issues... and you have car with electrical issues... 🤕

ohhh yeah almost forgot...

Parts location (note: picture shows engine from the back for some reason). Your codes relates to INTAKE sensors. on positive note they are both are located at the front of the engine and easily accessible. 

[DnG]

1 hour ago, Linas.P said:

I would advise to put those "coilovers" back on ebay where they belong. The only thing you going to achieve is ruining the ride of the car (even worse than 100k miles leaking originals). Honestly, these chinese "coilovers" are trash (I give them that - their names are creative - MaX Peeding Rods anyone?), they hard, they crash over the bumps and they are not even safe, because even smallest bump on the road upsets the balance of the car and they fail to bring the tyres back to contact to the road... basically it makes care all "fidgety" in corners. 

I mean sure - one thing they achieve is lowering the car, so if that is the only goal is to lower the car or to get front and rear sort of level (as hey have adjustment), they will work. These are "coilovers" for show car that sits on the stage, they suck when driving.

So you better of just getting original shocks, if needed you can get appropriate lowering springs and just put them on original shocks. If you want coilovers that actually work, then they will be very expensive - something like BC Racing or Tein... they would be £1,000-£1,500.

The coilovers company seem to be from a UK website that also sells turbos but they're cheap like £300 cheap.. I might just put them on for now and will eventually buy Tein.

 

1 hour ago, Linas.P said:

C1201 in your case may be triggered by C1241, it complaints that voltage is low on positive... could be bad battery, blown fuse, wiring (the positive terminal was messed with, start form there, maybe some muppet just forgot to fit/connect voltage sensor).

When I disconnected the wire going to the back aftermarket amp I noticed the top nut from the positive being loose so I tightened it, C1241 is gone but C1201 is still there... Will check each fuse tomorrow, if you could please tell me where the fuse panel/panels are on this thing.

 

1 hour ago, Linas.P said:

P0020 means it is bank 2, so the first step in troubleshooting, I would advise to swap sensor from bank 1 to bank 2. If error moves with the sensor (becomes P0010), then this is sensor issue, if it doesn't then it is either ECU or wiring issue, if it doubles, then it is also a wiring issue (basically on one side you will have faulty sensor, on other side you have faulty wiring). Else you need to check wave form of sensors and ECU with oscilloscope (I assume that is little bit advanced).

Swapping is a good idea, if you could point out which sensor to take out and where the bank 1 sensor is, I'll do it right away. Here's a pic of the engine, while we're here, if you could point out anything missing or out of place, I'd appreciate it 😄

 

Also, here's a screen recording of all the data I could get from the OBD tool while the engine is running:

 

 

 

[Linas.P]

Nothing really amiss... 

I just noted that your shocks are already not original. Which would explain why front is sagging like that. 

[DnG]

7 minutes ago, Linas.P said:

Nothing really amiss... 

I just noted that your shocks are already not original. Which would explain why front is sagging like that. 

Yeah, there is already a set of sport coilovers installed and the front left shock is shot, even rubs sometimes.

So do I swap those 2 sensors? The previous owner said that the error is for both sensors so that's why I'm asking.

Also, any special tools or ways to get them out, that I should know?

[Linas.P]

P0020 is bank 2, not sure why there are 2 errors for same sensor, but that may be just diagnostics software dependent. Or it may be bug in diagnostics software where it reports both as P0020, instead of correctly showing respective codes to each. I do not have answer for that - the only solution is to use Toyota Techstream which should not have such bugs in the first place.

Now if indeed the software is reporting both banks as faulty, then swapping the sensor won't work... but here is another thing - THERE IS NO WAY, two of the camshaft sensors would go faulty at the same time and I don't mean it is unlikely... NO - it is 0 chances. It is like two identical twins getting hit by the car in two different countries at exact same time... 

Why I am getting to - if both sensors reporting an issue at the same time, then it is not a sensor issue. Stretched chain, wrong timing like the belt skipped the tooth... but this is chain, chains don't skip the tooth if the tooth is still there. So that would be indicative of either real timing issue, physically with the engine, or it would be faulty ECU/wiring. Sensors don't go faulty in pairs... that is mechanic rule 101 (BMWs excluded). 

[DnG]

20 minutes ago, Linas.P said:

P0020 is bank 2, not sure why there are 2 errors for same sensor, but that may be just diagnostics software dependent. Or it may be bug in diagnostics software where it reports both as P0020, instead of correctly showing respective codes to each. I do not have answer for that - the only solution is to use Toyota Techstream which should not have such bugs in the first place.

Now if indeed the software is reporting both banks as faulty, then swapping the sensor won't work... but here is another thing - THERE IS NO WAY, two of the camshaft sensors would go faulty at the same time and I don't mean it is unlikely... NO - it is 0 chances. It is like two identical twins getting hit by the car in two different countries at exact same time...

Yeah, the log I provided shows different headlines, the different ECUs, so it lists the errors under their respective ECU, but the app has a headline called "OBD-IIOBD-II", under which it shows the error, and then again under Engine ECU, so it's only bank 2. I was only saying that the previous owner mentioned changing both sensors, not that the diag software does, I will swap them tomorrow and will come back with an update.

[Linas.P]

Not sure there is the reason to do that for cam sensors. Lambda/o2 - yes, they generally fail in pairs... cam sensors never fail, so I would just replace one. I can't even find one in parts catalogue... so you looking at used one anyway. 

Other thing - cam issues could be caused by faulty started... also faulty started could make whining sound... so could it be the case that your issues is starter?! This would be mostly noticeable as either cold or hot start issues - slow starter when hot/cold?

[DnG]

11 minutes ago, Linas.P said:

Other thing - cam issues could be caused by faulty started... also faulty started could make whining sound... so could it be the case that your issues is starter?! This would be mostly noticeable as either cold or hot start issues - slow starter when hot/cold?

So the whine started after the engine was on and I haven't noticed any starter issued, starts straight away with no issues. Will try another cold start tomorrow morning. On that note, I will be looking at getting a set of valved backboxes since the car doesn't have them anymore and it's too loud when cold starting, need to think about my neighbours, so will ask about tailpipe diameter after I'm done with fixing the actual problems of the car.

Also, there's no new sensors available to purchase?? That seems odd, especially for a sensor, maybe I'm just used to always finding new sensors available, coming from a BMW lol

[Texas]

One ( no cost ) thing to do in connection with the variable valve system is to remove and check/clean the two reuseable micro filters fitted in the oil feed line to the valve actuators in each bank. These may be clogged with debris and affecting the oil flow to the actuators.

[DnG]

Just now, Texas said:

One ( no cost ) thing to do in connection with the variable valve system is to remove and check/clean the two reuseable micro filters fitted in the oil feed line to the valve actuators in each bank. These may be clogged with debris and affecting the oil flow to the actuators.

That... sounds like a thing for a mechanic to do, or if you could show me a picture or tell me exactly where those are, I might be able to do the job.

[Linas.P]

36 minutes ago, Texas said:

One ( no cost ) thing to do in connection with the variable valve system is to remove and check/clean the two reuseable micro filters fitted in the oil feed line to the valve actuators in each bank. These may be clogged with debris and affecting the oil flow to the actuators.

It is good idea... and it actually quite realistic that neglected car would have such issue (bad oil etc.)... however I am sceptical, because this would result in solenoid performance code before it would result in camshaft position sensor code. 

I still think that OP should do as you suggested and it is good idea, but it would still result in different fault.

36 minutes ago, DnG said:

So the whine started after the engine was on and I haven't noticed any starter issued, starts straight away with no issues. Will try another cold start tomorrow morning. On that note, I will be looking at getting a set of valved backboxes since the car doesn't have them anymore and it's too loud when cold starting, need to think about my neighbours, so will ask about tailpipe diameter after I'm done with fixing the actual problems of the car.

Also, there's no new sensors available to purchase?? That seems odd, especially for a sensor, maybe I'm just used to always finding new sensors available, coming from a BMW lol

Yes mate - as I said they never go wrong, hence they are not really on sale. I mean I am sure you can get them on backorder or something... won't be cheap for sure, but as I said I can't even find it in parts catalogue... Toyota clearly didn't expect that anyone will need one before the end of next millennia.

34 minutes ago, DnG said:

That... sounds like a thing for a mechanic to do, or if you could show me a picture or tell me exactly where those are, I might be able to do the job.

Remove the oil feed line, there will be little metal mesh filter on the banjo bolt. 

1 hour ago, DnG said:

Also, any special tools or ways to get them out, that I should know?

Ohhh yes - it will need very special tool, some mechanics almost say mythical... 10 mm socket!

[Texas]

This is what the actual filter(s) look like, just trying to find a pic of where they live.

this was one of my filters at about 48,000 miles ( before cleaning!) and I reckon they have never been out before, says loads for 5,000 mile oil changes👍

The large bolt in the below pic is all that holds the filters in place under the end of the metal oil feed pipe.

[Texas]

Check this thread for the location of the filters And I reused the aluminium sealing washers, 

 

[DnG]

38 minutes ago, Linas.P said:

Ohhh yes - it will need very special tool, some mechanics almost say mythical... 10 mm socket!

Ah the trusty 10, got a 10mm socket keyring just to make sure I always have one on hand haha

[Linas.P]

Also I think it is time to change profile pic 😄 

[DnG]

12 minutes ago, Linas.P said:

Also I think it is time to change profile pic 😄 

Ohhhhh completely forgot about it, I'll update it with the ad pic lol, I'll take a proper pic once it's mechanically fixed and with my number plate on.