Is300h F Sport Pads and Discs all round

TheBro72 · September 24

I've got a friend who is replacing my front and rear pads and discs on my 2013 Is300 FSport. Does anyone know if I require brake sensors at least on the front?
When I've contacted Euro Car Parts and gave them my registration their systems are telling them that they aren't required?

Cheers in advance

ColinBarber · September 24

Not required because the IS300h doesn't have electronic brake sensors - just mechanical pieces of metal that will scrape the disc if the pads wear down too much.

TheBro72 · September 24

10 minutes ago, ColinBarber said:

Not required because the IS300h doesn't have electronic brake sensors - just mechanical pieces of metal that will scrape the disc if the pads wear down too much.

Thanks so much!

Although the pads and discs need replacing. I've got a mad squeaking noise coming from one of the corners when the wheels are in motion. Do you think worn disc/pads could be the reason for this noise?

ColinBarber · September 24

45 minutes ago, TheBro72 said:

Although the pads and discs need replacing. I've got a mad squeaking noise coming from one of the corners when the wheels are in motion. Do you think worn disc/pads could be the reason for this noise?

Possibly, it could also be the pads not pulling back from the discs because the calliper sliding pins are starting to seize and will need to be lubricated.

TheBro72 · September 24

35 minutes ago, ColinBarber said:

Possibly, it could also be the pads not pulling back from the discs because the calliper sliding pins are starting to seize and will need to be lubricated.

Aah ok thanks man, appreciate this!

wharfhouse · September 24

2 hours ago, TheBro72 said:

Thanks so much!

Although the pads and discs need replacing. I've got a mad squeaking noise coming from one of the corners when the wheels are in motion. Do you think worn disc/pads could be the reason for this noise?

I had that noise and it was one of my rear brake calipers sticking - check if one wheel is warmer than the others after driving around for a while - if so that's the wheel with the sticking caliper. It may be possible to get it working again or may need replacing (I had mine replaced along with discs and pads). My IS 300h is 2014 reg with 152k miles and rear discs and pads were still original before the sticking caliper.

Notamech · September 24

Just make sure your friend uses the correct grease i.e lithium soap based glycol grease on the slidepins and on the brake hardware. Else the rubber bands on the slide pins will swell and cause it to seize.

Also make sure the old brake shims are properly lubed and re-used. It will help prevent squeaks. Also use good quality discs and pads like EBC or the original Lexus ones.

mikejt · September 25

You could also consider Pagid discs/pads

TheBro72 · September 25

16 hours ago, wharfhouse said:

I had that noise and it was one of my rear brake calipers sticking - check if one wheel is warmer than the others after driving around for a while - if so that's the wheel with the sticking caliper. It may be possible to get it working again or may need replacing (I had mine replaced along with discs and pads). My IS 300h is 2014 reg with 152k miles and rear discs and pads were still original before the sticking caliper.

Thank you!
Yeah that squeaking noise is bloody irritating and embarrassing! Never knew which wheel it was coming from so will try what you said
My car is a 63 plate but its only done 45k so I'm hoping it a straight forward fix and doesn't need replacing. 👍🏾

TheBro72 · September 25

1 hour ago, mikejt said:

You could also consider Pagid discs/pads

I've gone for what was available from the supplier - Jurid disc and pads?

wharfhouse · September 25

7 minutes ago, TheBro72 said:

Thank you!
Yeah that squeaking noise is bloody irritating and embarrassing! Never knew which wheel it was coming from so will try what you said
My car is a 63 plate but its only done 45k so I'm hoping it a straight forward fix and doesn't need replacing. 👍🏾

If the problem is the rear caliper and sticking slide pins stopping in releasing properly then from what others have said they can be rebuilt and continue working. I had mine replaced FoC by Lexus under the 10 Year Plus Extended Warranty I purchased (Lexus wouldn't bother trying to rebuild the caliper, simply replaced it - TBF they are not that expensive for the age/miles mine has done if I'd had to purchase it). Lexus said that mine was sticking quite badly (struggled to rotate the wheel on the ramp) but didn't way whether it caused by slide pins sticking or whether it was something else. The pads had nearly worn out though on the side that was sticking but plenty of life left on the other side (even at 150k miles...)

K900 · November 8

How did this go for u in the end?

I must change my discs and pads soon and wondering is there any brands recommended or to avoid when ordering.

I got mintex pads one for a previous car and they clanked everytime the pedal was pressed.

Ended up replacing them with genuine ones. Going OE is costly though.

Notamech · November 9

18 hours ago, K900 said:

How did this go for u in the end?

I must change my discs and pads soon and wondering is there any brands recommended or to avoid when ordering.

I got mintex pads one for a previous car and they clanked everytime the pedal was pressed.

Ended up replacing them with genuine ones. Going OE is costly though.

Get EBC with their ultimax brake pads theyre excellent quality OEM replacement and dont generate as much dust. But they're slightly premium vs other brands that you can buy at euro car parts. If you must buy at euro car parts then i have had good experience with brembo oem replacement and have heard good things about pagid. Also honestly most squeaks are due to improper greasing of contact points or usage of the wrong type of grease and believe me when I say this shops get it wrong all the time.

K900 · November 9

I was thinking of getting this brembo full set. Probably wait for black Friday and hopefully get a better deal

I've used pagid before on other cars. They are the manufacturer of VW genuine pads.

IS300FSPORT · November 10

Iv fitted EBC Brake disc and Yellowstuff pads all around. I recommend them stronger brake feel & less brake dust. Similar price to OEM pads.

K900 · November 10

13 hours ago, IS300FSPORT said:

Iv fitted EBC Brake disc and Yellowstuff pads all around. I recommend them stronger brake feel & less brake dust. Similar price to OEM pads.

You went out all out with those bad boys! 👍

Is disc size 296mm front and 290mm rear the proper size...2013 is300h f sport?

IS300FSPORT · November 10

55 minutes ago, K900 said:

You went out all out with those bad boys! 👍

Is disc size 296mm front and 290mm rear the proper size...2013 is300h f sport?

See the invoice , this may help with part numbers. Look up the spec on their site using the part numbers. I went for the premium discs as they don't corrode as easily they are coated. Noticeable when we get rain or after a car wash the discs don't show rust as easily as the OEM.

It was about 6 months ago so I'd be making it up if I had to confirm the size of the discs. Had no issues with the fitment, I'd say it's taken about 600-1000 miles to feel the bite & they are very effective. In all honesty I didn't need them doing the pads were like new but the discs were corroded. The hybrid regen takes away brake wear people have seen over 100k on the original brakes but the weather does no favours to the discs on low mileage cars used infrequently they just corrode making all sorts of funky noises.

+ I just wanted an excuse to upgrade, as there was an annoying squeal. The most important job of the brake job is clean up the hardware which is time consuming. Requires effort to decrease the hardware caliper sliders, clean the pad carrier & regrease. Most garages will just throw on a set of disc and pads and send you on your way.

Keep your original brakes shims they are there for (anti-squeal) and transfer them over to your new pads. They cost a fair bit if you had to buy again from Lexus.

K900 · November 10

32 minutes ago, IS300FSPORT said:

See the invoice , this may help with part numbers. Look up the spec on their site using the part numbers. I went for the premium discs as they don't corrode as easily they are coated. Noticeable when we get rain or after a car wash the discs don't show rust as easily as the OEM.

It was about 6 months ago so I'd be making it up if I had to confirm the size of the discs. Had no issues with the fitment, I'd say it's taken about 600-1000 miles to feel the bite & they are very effective. In all honesty I didn't need them doing the pads were like new but the discs were corroded. The hybrid regen takes away brake wear people have seen over 100k on the original brakes but the weather does no favours to the discs on low mileage cars used infrequently they just corrode making all sorts of funky noises.

+ I just wanted an excuse to upgrade, as there was an annoying squeal. The most important job of the brake job is clean up the hardware which is time consuming. Requires effort to decrease the hardware caliper sliders, clean the pad carrier & regrease. Most garages will just throw on a set of disc and pads and send you on your way.

Keep your original brakes shims they are there for (anti-squeal) and transfer them over to your new pads. They cost a fair bit if you had to buy again from Lexus.

Thanks for that.

Just on the milage. I think mine are still the originals and there's 70k mile on the clock.

I have the car 8 years now.

IS300FSPORT · November 10

1 hour ago, K900 said:

Thanks for that.

Just on the milage. I think mine are still the originals and there's 70k mile on the clock.

I have the car 8 years now.

If they aren't making any noise, and the brake pedal feels fine. Leave them until you actually need to do them. A strip down clean up & regrease is all what may be needed to extend the life of your current brakes, if your good at DIY or know an honest mechanic try that first.

You could always get the brakes inspected and make an informed decision based on the report minimum thickness on the disc & pad wear is a good indication. Sometimes the pad may look fine (meaty) on the alloy wheel side but the inside pad which you can't see without an inspection mirror/camera may be wearing quicker abnormal wear, this can happen if the caliper is sticking or the slider pins are seizing up.

Were there any advisories for your brakes on the last MOT?

Usually a decent garage will recommend having the pads done before they reach the minimum thickness, as it can cause the disc surface to become damaged if the pads are left late. With hybrid it's the opposite the pads wear slow, its the disc that suffers corrosion. Garages will upsell trying to sell you disc and pads obviously for business, Kwik ***** will give you a 'free brake inspection' but put the fear of God in you. You may run that little old lady over as soon as you leave the garage.

If maintained by a main dealer you may want to check if the brake fluid has been changed as well as its good practice to have it done to prevent caliper seizing and brake line corroding inside out.

Hope that helps, Im going to stop typing now as my train stop is coming. :thumbup1:

wharfhouse · November 10

The OEM front discs and pads will last over 100k miles in normal driving unless you are very heavy on the brakes. When they are changed you will probably have to do discs and pads together. I did my fronts at 80k miles simply because the front wheel bearings were being changed, but they would certainly have gone further. The current replacement front discs and pads have now done 75k and plenty of life left in them.

OEM rear discs and pads will probably last over 200k miles based on the wear rate of mine. Again pads and discs are best changed together. Unfortunately I had a seized rear caliper at 150k miles which meant I also needed new discs and pads so I wasn't able to see just how far they would go (although previous services had mentioned corrosion and pitting of rear discs but plenty of thickness left in the discs and pads). Chances are that you will end up changing discs and pads (especially rear ones) more because of corrosion and pitting issues, or sticking caliper, than actually wearing them out!

TheMcSame · November 10

7 minutes ago, wharfhouse said:

The OEM front discs and pads will last over 100k miles in normal driving unless you are very heavy on the brakes. When they are changed you will probably have to do discs and pads together. I did my fronts at 80k miles simply because the front wheel bearings were being changed, but they would certainly have gone further. The current replacement front discs and pads have now done 75k and plenty of life left in them.

OEM rear discs and pads will probably last over 200k miles based on the wear rate of mine. Again pads and discs are best changed together. Unfortunately I had a seized rear caliper at 150k miles which meant I also needed new discs and pads so I wasn't able to see just how far they would go (although previous services had mentioned corrosion and pitting of rear discs but plenty of thickness left in the discs and pads). Chances are that you will end up changing discs and pads (especially rear ones) more because of corrosion and pitting issues, or sticking caliper, than actually wearing them out!

Makes me wonder what my car's previous owner got up to...

Had to have my discs changed at 56K.

K900 · November 10

There is a lip on them all which is worse on the inside of all the discs.

The surface of the discs aren't as smooth as they could be either.

There's a ripple in them when I rub my finger along them.

I'd be doing them myself.

No stranger to working on stuff although this hasn't needed much in the 8 years I have it but do work motorbikes all the time.

The only other thing I must look into is the engine has popped up and gone off again several times recently.

Think it's a cam sensor or similar causing it.

IS300FSPORT · November 10

23 minutes ago, K900 said:

There is a lip on them all which is worse on the inside of all the discs.

The surface of the discs aren't as smooth as they could be either.

There's a ripple in them when I rub my finger along them.

I'd be doing them myself.

No stranger to working on stuff although this hasn't needed much in the 8 years I have it but do work motorbikes all the time.

The only other thing I must look into is the engine has popped up and gone off again several times recently.

Think it's a cam sensor or similar causing it.

In that case just get the brakes replaced & forget about it for another few years.

You mention engine light has popped up? Have you had the codes read when you plug it in to ODB2 reader.

Typically on Toyota/Lexus cars it's the Lambda sensor, MAF sensor, or a bad spark plug. Cam/crankshaft possibly but havent seen many reports on here.

Interesting to see what it is as mines just shy of 58,000miles in 4 years no issues but expect the odd hiccup as it ages.

K900 · November 10

14 minutes ago, IS300FSPORT said:

In that case just get the brakes replaced & forget about it for another few years.

You mention engine light has popped up? Have you had the codes read when you plug it in to ODB2 reader.

Typically on Toyota/Lexus cars it's the Lambda sensor, MAF sensor, or a bad spark plug. Cam/crankshaft possibly but havent seen many reports on here.

Interesting to see what it is as mines just shy of 58,000miles in 4 years no issues but expect the odd hiccup as it ages.

I'll start a new thread about the engine light.

Yeah I have a Bluetooth adapter and scanner app and that shows a code.

Car is running like it's brand new so thinking it's a cam sensor or vvt sensor on the way out as it comes on and goes again of its own accord.

Code is P0368

ColinBarber · November 10

39 minutes ago, K900 said:

Car is running like it's brand new so thinking it's a cam sensor or vvt sensor on the way out as it comes on and goes again of its own accord.

Code is P0368

Exhaust cam sensor fault.