Corrosion underneath?

[Duggie B]

On 8/12/2024 at 9:12 PM, BrettMRC said:

Obviously not been garaged and kept for high days and holidays.

I suspect the first owner had it and used it as intended, hence the rust covering here and there etc.

Nothing there that can't be sorted with a wire brush and some waxoly.

Maybe it was garaged, but, could it have been in a constant damp atmosphere likely caused by damp coming up from under the car ? For instance no damp proof membrane 🤔

[Boomer54]

10 minutes ago, Duggie B said:

Maybe it was garaged, but, could it have been in a constant damp atmosphere likely caused by damp coming up from under the car ? For instance no damp proof membrane 🤔

The one thing you learn about after having a wood burner is this. It isn't damp on the wood (or damp under a car). It's the absence of airflow that keeps damp hanging around. That will apply to just about anything including cars.

From the pics so far my money is on the metal treatment rather than the enviroment.

[eightk]

3 hours ago, shapiro said:

Mine looks very similar to eightk. I may also request some anti corrosion measures. Do we know if Lexus provide this as a service or better to use independents?

Doubt main dealers would want their ramps getting all clarted up with gunge - I did my LC (LandCruiser) on the road outside the house and the tarmac has still not recovered.

Something like a Dinitrol treatement would be the ultimate - they have a dealer network I think.

[Tom999]

Yep that's better Andy. I did email Lexus with the pics and questions re' warranty but it must have gone to one of those addresses that they never look at!!! 

I'l try direct approach with Lexus Preston, they're good..

 

[BrettMRC]

On 8/18/2024 at 9:58 PM, Tom999 said:

Yep that's better Andy. I did email Lexus with the pics and questions re' warranty but it must have gone to one of those addresses that they never look at!!! 

I'l try direct approach with Lexus Preston, they're good..

 

Any joy? 

[Tom999]

Ive had a good look through the Lexus warranty and it keeps quoting holes in panels so I'd say they're not interested...until it's real bad.

[e46guy]

rusty suspension arms and diff are solid lumps that typically just surface rust.

 

You need to be concerned with body panels floorpan and sills.

 

Having said that i've seen a few 8 year old lexus with rust yet my 21 year old micra has no rust anywhere...

[Jgtcracer]

1 hour ago, e46guy said:

rusty suspension arms and diff are solid lumps that typically just surface rust.

 

You need to be concerned with body panels floorpan and sills.

 

Having said that i've seen a few 8 year old lexus with rust yet my 21 year old micra has no rust anywhere...

I remember a 3yr old K11 Micra with rust! You have done very well to keep a Micra rust free.

It could also be that even rust is scared of a micra!

[S.H.]

here in Iceland all Lexus and Toyota get underbody rust protection and to keep the through body 12 year rusting warranty then recoating min every third year. 

my IS 2017" just got his third rustproofing... the first one from the dealer was underbody only but the other to were full rustproofing. But there is the small letters...

that say this is not valid for non reachable places like where there is plastic covers and like the sound....... dampening inner fender there is no proofing.

I did one inner wheel Right rear and I thought I had some pic of it but I only got one and that was before I took it down.. I also wanted to sound insulate better

from tire noise.    The easiest way to check for underbody rust is to put your camera under the car (about 10 pic). I always do that when inspecting a car. My plan for this winter

is to take ALL plastic covers and rust proof under them. Here is a pic from my rear wheel well..    sorry my English is not my first language, I could post here more pictures 

even if the car is not raised if someone wants. Behind this cover was no rust proofing not even wax.

 

 

 

[S.H.]

On 8/12/2024 at 10:47 AM, Tom999 said:

Morning all, I must be doing something wrong as nothing comes up on a search of corrosion / rust...

 

Anyway, had the rear end jacked up yesterday so I could un-plug the exhaust valves.

Was surprised to see a fair amount of rust on the steel parts. Diff housing, drive shafts, cross member in front of the rear steer rack and any bolts in sight.

 

Anyone noticed similar? My 2005 Mercedes van is cleaner 🥴. 

Would be really good to rent some time on a car lift and go over it all but tried that a couple of years ago and all the garages quoted insurance reasons when refusing....

I did the same except different phrase, from my point there should be a special topic about rust Protecting in the forum.

[Lexusjim]

2 hours ago, S.H. said:

here in Iceland all Lexus and Toyota get underbody rust protection

What make of rust protection do you use.?

[S.H.]

3 hours ago, Lexusjim said:

What make of rust protection do you use.?

I will explain later but there are 4 category of rust protection +rust remover + rust converter.

[Tom999]

I had a look under an early convertible at the Rhos on sea car meet Sunday. Was very clean.

[S.H.]

4 hours ago, S.H. said:

I will explain later but there are 4 category of rust protection +rust remover + rust converter.

I will edit this post as long as I can need some pictures etc..

Nr 1, Cavity wax 100% neutral and only makes a film and used in closed space like doors, sills, frames etc.. every 3-5 years

Nr 2, Cavity wax.. except got some rust solvent properties like Fluid Film used on older cars ( I always got that and use it in many ways). I use ONLY pressure can 4-6 bars...

Nr 3, Bitumen type coating only used on 100% clean and perfect surface (new paint or treated rust spots) when brushing min 2 layers.

Nr 4. Underbody coating that is thick and only serves to protect from stones etc.. sometimes rubberized.    I do not use it on older cars..

Nr 5, yes.. I do not use it but some do and that is Rubberized spray under sills and paint over it. It sounds good but on older cars you could trap the moist and it could rust inwards without showing.

Then we got three categories of cars, new (less than 3 weeks on the road) 2, nice cars but underbody with surface rust and then cars that need rust repairs.

My 2017 Lexus is treated with Dinitrol line from the workshop that Toyota/Lexus uses here in my country. Before they get my car I take out all  panels in the trunk I can and there goes cavity wax. I am starting to rustproof/soundproof.. the places that are not done in the workshop like the inner fender.. The paint there is pristine so I clean it 100% first Tare remover then  Paint thinner and finally Azetone then 2x waxing (Soft99 that is to close the paint) then 2 layers of Tectyl (Bitumen type). Yes there was a minor less noise from that tire. My tires are 72db uhh

My winter and working car is a Hyundai Getz CRDi 2008" 210k+ km bought him 8 years ago.. and it had only got one underbody (the original) rustproofing and nothing else, and that car gets no special treatment.... we use salt on the roads over the winter time here and it can get really ugly at times. For paint rust spots I use rust converter x3 layers + primer on top, Waxing does not do the job. When I change the oil I usually give him spray where it is dry but always full underbody layer before inspection. The whole floor inside the car including under the spare tire gets (just need to do this once) 100% cleaning and rust converter where needed then Fluid film over the whole floor and cover it with FOOD FILM (yes it works) no smell and it never dries up and it completely stopped the rusting under the spare tire. I got into a new problem with the Getz now and that was the original underbody coating was started to peel off (there was a minor thin brown rust lines), when I coated it so after few rounds with the can all lose was gone so I cleaned it all with kitchen paper (**** dirty) Fluid film on it (thin layer) few days later brushed Tectyl over it, yes it does mix but the Tectyl will not harden, after a year we will se how this last... but that part of the car looks like new..  smile.

 

[Notamech]

Its the same on my 10 year old IS that lived in Newcastle most of its life. I have recently started treating the rust with jenolite rust converter that can be left on and doesnt need to be painted over..but its a very difficult job to do on jackstands..especially if you only have only 2. Also painted the disc dust guards as if these rust enough it can be an mot fail. Forget the underside even under the engine bay it was really bad as somone else pointed out its probably a japanese thing. Its the same on my wifes jazz.

Also i dont think comparing it to rust on discs is fair as the discs are exposed steel where as most of the underbody is supposedly treated and painted.

 

Heres a pic of what the crossmember under the engine bay looked like.

 

[GSLV6]

It seems to be a lottery with Lexus cars.  My 2006 gs300 was suffering badly with rust underneath from a few years old and needed a new cross member, suspension parts and the exhaust split at the Y branch after corroding.  My '21 RX has a surprising amount of surface rust underneath...the whole subframe and suspension arms are covered in rust, and as this car is new to me, I'll be getting under it to plaster it in Lanoguard before winter sets in.  It appears that Japanese cars aren't treated from the factory as they don't salt their roads but no attempt is made by Lexus to protect the underside from corrosion for export cars, which for a luxury brand, is imho a huge oversight, especially given what they cost.

Best advice might be to scrub off the worst with a brass brush and have it lanoguarded as this will continue to protect it for a few years.  That or other effective treatment of your choice.  I did my last RX and it remained rust free for 10 years.

[S.H.]

4 hours ago, Notamech said:

Its the same on my 10 year old IS that lived in Newcastle most of its life. I have recently started treating the rust with jenolite rust converter that can be left on and doesnt need to be painted over..but its a very difficult job to do on jackstands..especially if you only have only 2. Also painted the disc dust guards as if these rust enough it can be an mot fail. Forget the underside even under the engine bay it was really bad as somone else pointed out its probably a japanese thing. Its the same on my wifes jazz.

Also i dont think comparing it to rust on discs is fair as the discs are exposed steel where as most of the underbody is supposedly treated and painted.

 

Heres a pic of what the crossmember under the engine bay looked like.

 

I have used 2 types of rust converters over last 6 years but both of them do breath in the end (on body) and I needed to redo or give it an extra once a year, not a problem but that is why I give it a primer (primers do also breath but I gave it a try, does it delay the breathing of the converter....) Just keep an eye on it.

[S.H.]

3 hours ago, GSLV6 said:

It seems to be a lottery with Lexus cars.  My 2006 gs300 was suffering badly with rust underneath from a few years old and needed a new cross member, suspension parts and the exhaust split at the Y branch after corroding.  My '21 RX has a surprising amount of surface rust underneath...the whole subframe and suspension arms are covered in rust, and as this car is new to me, I'll be getting under it to plaster it in Lanoguard before winter sets in.  It appears that Japanese cars aren't treated from the factory as they don't salt their roads but no attempt is made by Lexus to protect the underside from corrosion for export cars, which for a luxury brand, is imho a huge oversight, especially given what they cost.

Best advice might be to scrub off the worst with a brass brush and have it lanoguarded as this will continue to protect it for a few years.  That or other effective treatment of your choice.  I did my last RX and it remained rust free for 10 years.

Here in Iceland it is a dealer option for all the car brands and leave it to the customer if they want it extra except Toyota/Lexus there it is in the price but only the underbody.

I also expect that it is up to the dealer in each country if it is needed or not.... There was a time over about 4 years that manufacturers denied the warranty if it got extra rustproofing. But they got that back like a Boomerang.

[Notamech]

28 minutes ago, S.H. said:

I have used 2 types of rust converters over last 6 years but both of them do breath in the end (on body) and I needed to redo or give it an extra once a year, not a problem but that is why I give it a primer (primers do also breath but I gave it a try, does it delay the breathing of the converter....) Just keep an eye on it.

Some components like the brake disc dust guards and the small exposed portion of brake line that connects to the flex hose as well as the lower control arms i painted with hammerite direct to rust. It has a nice thick finish. But doing  the whole underbody is going to be way too much for me so some components i just sprayed / brushed rust converter and plan to again next year and hope the car lasts the 5 years i plan to keep it without issues. 

I really want to paint the whole brake lines as i am not sure if the lines that run along the underbody have a protective sleeve or are exposed i couldn't see clearly. Does anyone know if i should be fine just painting the ends that connect to the flex hose as i had an advisory last year on the MOT saying brake lines starting to corrode but i dont know if they mean the full line that runs under the car or just the few cm of exposed line at the ends where it mwets the flex hose.

[S.H.]

56 minutes ago, Notamech said:

Some components like the brake disc dust guards and the small exposed portion of brake line that connects to the flex hose as well as the lower control arms i painted with hammerite direct to rust. It has a nice thick finish. But doing  the whole underbody is going to be way too much for me so some components i just sprayed / brushed rust converter and plan to again next year and hope the car lasts the 5 years i plan to keep it without issues. 

I really want to paint the whole brake lines as i am not sure if the lines that run along the underbody have a protective sleeve or are exposed i couldn't see clearly. Does anyone know if i should be fine just painting the ends that connect to the flex hose as i had an advisory last year on the MOT saying brake lines starting to corrode but i dont know if they mean the full line that runs under the car or just the few cm of exposed line at the ends where it mwets the flex hose.

I did test Hammerite but did not get it to work properly. I spray my brakelines with Fluid film last 6 years.. and no change same is with the brake hose to brake line. Hammerite gets hard so when that gets old it gets brittle. I use my Fluid film pressure can to clean loose dirt/old bitumen. This is my salty transportation (Getz 2008) after cleaning and before coating, as can bee seen the original 16 year old rustproofing is started to flake off but the rust is only surface. About your 5 years.. I have told my self for many years I give the car 3 years and after each yearly rustproofing.. I still say the same  hahaha

[PCM]

I've used Lanoguard on my cars. Just did it myself...

[S.H.]

28 minutes ago, PCM said:

I've used Lanoguard on my cars. Just did it myself...

I could not open the Lanoguard web page but I took a look at it on youtube and I see pros and cons..   Pros no air compressor needed and easy to apply, cons the car needs a steam wash but if you got a pressure can to flush out the closed spaces with the Lanoguard like the frame, yes it is thin but I see no reason it would not do the job but to get into the closed spaces you need a pressure can. I have not seen this around me but I will keep my eyes open. Regarding rust I am always testing something.   Thx

[S.H.]

guys I would be glad to hear from you if you found rustproofing formula/method/material that does work for you coz there are so many new products on the market now that make sense but

they do not all work as advertised.......   kind regards.

[S.H.]

On 9/3/2024 at 4:47 PM, Lexusjim said:

What make of rust protection do you use.?

This is what I use on surface rusted cars. P.S. the Bitumen is from Motip and sold at the Toyota/Lexus dealer and surprisingly cheap. Presto is the rust converter.

[S.H.]

2017" Lexus IS300H F-Sport. Standard Lexus Iceland underbody coating. Total 42k km, 2000km since last rustproofing. Rustproofing Nr 3 (as by the book to hold the warranty here in Iceland).