OSRAM NIGHT breakers D4S Experience?

[IS300FSPORT]

Have any of you used the OSRAM night breaker bulbs?

I'm looking for more brightness than the standard bulbs as they are not great.

If anybody has fitted them longevity wise how long did they last?

& more importantly would you recommend them?

Reading reviews online it's OSRAM nightbreaker vs Phillips xtreme vision. Alot of reviews indicate they have a short lifespan which isn't great because they are not cheap. Approx £135 from amazon.

Fitting is not a problem.

 

[agent_dess]

I have, I like them, had mines since 2022. Just be sure to replace them in pairs.

[IS300FSPORT]

12 minutes ago, agent_dess said:

I have, I like them, had mines since 2022. Just be sure to replace them in pairs.

Thanks do you have any pictures with the lights in use at night pls

[J Henderson]

The short lifespan theory is rubbish as far as I'm concerned.

I have the Cool Blue Intense variants in my car, which have the same estimated lifespan as the Nightbreakers, and I fitted mine over 6 years ago.

[IS300FSPORT]

16 minutes ago, J Henderson said:

The short lifespan theory is rubbish as far as I'm concerned.

I have the Cool Blue Intense variants in my car, which have the same estimated lifespan as the Nightbreakers, and I fitted mine over 6 years ago.

Do you recommend the cool blue variants?

Again any pics pls 

[LenT]

2 hours ago, IS300FSPORT said:

Thanks do you have any pictures with the lights in use at night pls

I fitted the Osram Nightbreakers four years ago and felt they were a dramatic improvement over the original D4S bulbs.  The main beam was certainly improved but that wasn’t the main benefit for me.  
 

The dipped beam was far better controlled and illuminated the left verges far more effectively -  a considerable advantage in spotting the potholes that decorate the edges of our country lanes around here!

Here, I hope, are a couple of night shots I took about four years ago.  They show dip and main from the same location. I don’t do that much night driving, so I can’t really comment on longevity!

In short, I would certainly recommend them.

ps. Turns out three photos were loaded!  I think the middle one is main  🤔

 

[J Henderson]

1 hour ago, IS300FSPORT said:

Do you recommend the cool blue variants?

Again any pics pls 

I certainly do recommend them.

Here's a couple of pics that show how white the output is compared to other vehicles.

BTW, ignore the bad aim of my headlights. They're pointing far too low.

[IS300FSPORT]

@LenT & @J Henderson - Thats great & thanks for sharing.

Now I'm split between the 2, from looking at them pics the cool blue variant appear bright enough  & it may just make the car look abit more modern like BMW/Mercedes that have the cool white effect.

[IS300FSPORT]

Update purchased the Osram night breaker laser & fitted them today 20 min job at the most, access is good once the air filter housing Box was removed & for the left side just remove the windscreen bottle pipe.

Should it help anybody else in the future.

Dipped beam & full beam on a darker quiet road. This is on a slightly wet road we had rain earlier. What's evident is the way the lamp distributes the light on the side certainly helps with being able to see kerbs & pot holes to avoid on our lovely British roads. The colour seems white with a hint of yellow, although I do prefer the cool white look maybe next time. Seem quite expensive for what you get is it worth it? Will decide that on how long the bulbs last.

[Notamech]

11 hours ago, IS300FSPORT said:

Update purchased the Osram night breaker laser & fitted them today 20 min job at the most, access is good once the air filter housing Box was removed & for the left side just remove the windscreen bottle pipe.

Should it help anybody else in the future.

Dipped beam & full beam on a darker quiet road. This is on a slightly wet road we had rain earlier. What's evident is the way the lamp distributes the light on the side certainly helps with being able to see kerbs & pot holes to avoid on our lovely British roads. The colour seems white with a hint of yellow, although I do prefer the cool white look maybe next time. Seem quite expensive for what you get is it worth it? Will decide that on how long the bulbs last.

Is there a guide you are aware of on how to change the bulbs. I plan to do it too before winter along with rear brakes and rust proofing. 

[IS300FSPORT]

There are quite a few videos on youtube.

Step 1 - Ensure ignition & lights are OFF (V important)

DRIVER SIDE

10mm socket & long extension remove the 10mm bolts on the air box, and the clamp that joins the rubber pipe to the air box. Disconnect the MAF Sensor. You should now be able to remove the housing gently maneuvering the box out away from the duct. Disconnect the plug to the ballast, & twist the cover off anti-clock turn. Now you will have access to the ignitor twist that & place the ballast in a safe place. Remove the clip holding the bulb & remove the bulb. Insert new bulb only goes in one way put the clip back on.  Reattach the ignitor to the plug twist back on & the ballast remember to attach the plug & test it before you put the air filter box back in

(NOTE this step is not necessary) but if you have big hands you will struggle just makes it so much easier & gives you access to see what your doing. 

Passenger side

Is the same but miles easier by just removing the windscreen washer bottle neck it pulls out.

As for brakes there are loads of guides on youtube the principle is the same. Rust proofing requires preparation invest in ramps & axle stands. Really depends on how far you want to go with buying the tools etc. I do an undercarriage wash post winter it slows down the corrosion suspension & chassis still looks fairly fresh.

[Notamech]

23 minutes ago, IS300FSPORT said:

There are quite a few videos on youtube.

Step 1 - Ensure ignition & lights are OFF (V important)

DRIVER SIDE

10mm socket & long extension remove the 10mm bolts on the air box, and the clamp that joins the rubber pipe to the air box. Disconnect the MAF Sensor. You should now be able to remove the housing gently maneuvering the box out away from the duct. Disconnect the plug to the ballast, & twist the cover off anti-clock turn. Now you will have access to the ignitor twist that & place the ballast in a safe place. Remove the clip holding the bulb & remove the bulb. Insert new bulb only goes in one way put the clip back on.  Reattach the ignitor to the plug twist back on & the ballast remember to attach the plug & test it before you put the air filter box back in

(NOTE this step is not necessary) but if you have big hands you will struggle just makes it so much easier & gives you access to see what your doing. 

Passenger side

Is the same but miles easier by just removing the windscreen washer bottle neck it pulls out.

As for brakes there are loads of guides on youtube the principle is the same. Rust proofing requires preparation invest in ramps & axle stands. Really depends on how far you want to go with buying the tools etc. I do an undercarriage wash post winter it slows down the corrosion suspension & chassis still looks fairly fresh.

Thanks...yeah i have an idea of what i want to do wrt rust proofing and brakes. Am doing the wifes jazz this weekend so should be good practice. Also seen videos on how to do it for toyota / lexus with a drum parking brake set up on the rear. I dont plan to touch the drum set up as it appears to be difficult to put back will only be replacing the disks and pads. 

I know you did your front brakes recently with EBC. How do you find them so far? Also did you get a light on the dash from pushing the pistons back in?

[IS300FSPORT]

37 minutes ago, Notamech said:

I know you did your front brakes recently with EBC. How do you find them so far? Also did you get a light on the dash from pushing the pistons back in?

The EBC brakes seem to be OE quality although I did get a very faint squeal from them after 1000 Miles when coming to a complete stop. I have since removed the shim plate that was fitted to the pad & used the original Lexus shims now it's nice & quiet. Performance wise haven't had a chance put it through a hard session where they get a chance to heat up. Must admit the initial brake bite is noticeable stronger especially from cold.

No issues with the install as long as you do not open the brake bleeder nut when pushing the caliper piston in can't see you having a problem. Just remember to push the brake pedal a few times to build up pressure before you set off on your initial drive after a pad change. Keep an eye on the brake fluid reservoir when pushing the caliper piston in if the fluid was overfilled it can pour out it shouldn't go past the max line. Easily corrected with a suction pump or srynge.