My car overheated and now won't start

rider_01 · June 20

I have a 2010 IS250, I was driving and heard a clicking sound, the temp gauge went all the way left to the cold side and the car started to overheat. I pulled off and it died, I wasn't in a good spot so started it again and got it to a better spot and it died and wouldn't start again. I opened the hood and there was coolant everywhere, I towed it home, read the codes and got:
P0117(Engine coolant temp sensor-low input)
P2017(Intake manifold air control actuator position sensor/switch, bank 1-circuit high

So I replaced the coolant temp sensor and nothing, still won't start and the code didn't go away. Towed it to a shop and he said there was no voltage to the direct injection high pressure fuel pump, it was bad. That didn't sound right so I took it to another shop and they said the water pump was bad. I changed that out today but it still won't start and the two codes remain. I am stumped, did the ecm shut off power to the fuel pump when it started to overheat and why did that code not go away when I replaced the coolant sensor. Any help would be appreciated.

madasahatter · June 20

First off have you cleared the codes. Second is this.

The P2017 code indicates an issue with your intake manifold system. This specific description of “Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor/Switch Circuit High” means that there's an abnormally high voltage that the powertrain control module (PCM) has noted in the position sensor of the manifold airflow-control device.

rider_01 · June 20

Yes I tried clearing the codes but they came right back. Does the high voltage mean that the runner position sensor is bad? Would that cause it not to run because the runner is staying closed?

Linas.P · June 26

Overheating on these engines is very risky. Generally, 4GR-FSE has no known reliability issues, nor design flaws. High-mileage engines, that were consistently poorly maintained (extended oil change internals) maybe have oil burning issue, but it is just that - add 1L of oil every 2000 miles and car continues to go. BUT - overheating is sure way to blow head gasket, warp the heads and total the car.

First thing you need to do is to figure out why coolant was everywhere... I cannot see anything in your post reaching any conclusion about it. Basically, before you do ANYTHING else, you need to figure out why the original issue happened. Here I have few ideas - water pump failed (this would be common, they are service items that have to be replaced every 60,000 miles), there have been reported water pump failures on these cars (due to missed maintenance), so diagnosis you got makes sense. Other option - fan on radiator failed and caused overheating (should not happen whilst driving at speed), then coolant overflown. Could be physical damage to maybe hose or reservoir, or even radiator has hole in it? So very first thing to fix - fix the leak/cause of overheating.

Can the injector driver fail when coolant leaked? Yes - that has happened and it is not uncommon. Injector driver is at the front of the engine just next to the water pump, if coolant gets onto injector driver it could fail... actually happened recently to one of the members when they were replacing water pump. That could be the reason for no-start... BUT - you still need to fix your cooling issue, before you throw new injector driver, overheat the engine again and blow the heads on it.

P2017 - could be because connectors to actuator are shorted by the coolant overflowing... maybe it would be enough to clean connectors?

Texas · June 26

Coolant caps have been known to fail, internal parts come adrift!, and may lead to loss of pressurisation and then coolant loss.

BC99 · June 27

Ignoring the overheating which could have caused permanent damage, it should still start up i would have thought.

What codes is it now showing? is it the same ones again?

Try disconnecting the sensors?