SC430 Gamble

[2Tanks]

23 minutes ago, Bob King said:

Few of us here buy our parts direct from JAPAN, look up the parts you need here….

https://www.amayama.com/en

Yes UAE supply, delivered 20th £53 not £190. Thank you so much. I’ll order the pair 😊

[2Tanks]

Morning. I had previously contacted Paul Frost, the Lexus breaker who replied later that he had one, delivered £40, so I grabbed that too, so I don't have to shelve the car for 3 weeks....
A thorough cleanse reveals the rear section has had a respray.
The drivers side front reflector lens is cracked/broken, sadly he didn't have a replacement in stock.

I've had the noco genius5 trickler on overnight, just to get this rather new Battery into shape.
I'm simply removing the car Battery earth, when doing this which I hope is OK?

[GMB]

24 minutes ago, 2Tanks said:

I've had the noco genius5 trickler on overnight, just to get this rather new Battery into shape.
I'm simply removing the car Battery earth, when doing this which I hope is OK?

I am not sure but disconnecting the earth could cause issues with electronic settings, I have not done this so maybe someone could confirm or not?

I just attach the trickle charger to the correct terminals, disconnecting nothing, it has always worked fine on all the vehicles that I have had - no problems. There is also nothing in the trickle charger manual that mentions disconnecting anything.

BTW the charger also comes with adaptors for attaching the cables without having to access the Battery at all, once they are permanently attached.

[Glyn Jennings]

24 minutes ago, GMB said:

I am not sure but disconnecting the earth could cause issues with electronic settings, I have not done this so maybe someone could confirm or not?

I just attach the trickle charger to the correct terminals, disconnecting nothing, it has always worked fine on all the vehicles that I have had - no problems. There is also nothing in the trickle charger manual that mentions disconnecting anything.

BTW the charger also comes with adaptors for attaching the cables without having to access the battery at all, once they are permanently attached.

My experience of CTEK chargers has really gone down hill. I had one years ago and it was great. I bought a new one a couple of years ago for the SC and it packed up after 3 months. I returned it to CTEK and they sent me a new one which only lasted about a year. NOCO seems the way to go.

[GMB]

20 minutes ago, Glyn Jennings said:

My experience of CTEK chargers has really gone down hill. I had one years ago and it was great. I bought a new one a couple of years ago for the SC and it packed up after 3 months. I returned it to CTEK and they sent me a new one which only lasted about a year. NOCO seems the way to go.

Thanks, will bear that in mind if my charger goes kaput.🤔. It's been OK up to now luckily. ( 2 yrs old ).

[Boomer54]

1 hour ago, GMB said:

I am not sure but disconnecting the earth could cause issues with electronic settings, I have not done this so maybe someone could confirm or not?

I just attach the trickle charger to the correct terminals, disconnecting nothing, it has always worked fine on all the vehicles that I have had - no problems. There is also nothing in the trickle charger manual that mentions disconnecting anything.

BTW the charger also comes with adaptors for attaching the cables without having to access the battery at all, once they are permanently attached.

I have that arrangement on the XK. Just as well as the Battery is behind panels in the boot. Clearly no one wants to be removing those on a regular basis.

[2Tanks]

I also note that the boot lamps don't appear to illuminate.
I see that they appear on fuse 19 DOME 7.5A alongside the other cosmetic light circuits.
Interior light, Personal lights, Vanity lights, engine switch light (?), Trunk light, Antenna, Garage door opener system and Audio system.
DOME circuit also appears to be controlled by the D/C CUT 15A in the engine bay, which also does the MPX 1-3 which I imagine is a multiplex of some sort.

I was told by the previous keeper that the stereo didn't work but that it was just a fuse (?) so this might make sense, however I have seen the interior roof lights working....
The audio system is on fuse 47, RADIO#1, 30A, but also on fuse 24, RADIO#2, 10A, along with the trip info display, seat belt warning system and shift lock system. I was pleased to see an invoice which included speaker replacement in the last couple of years...

Plenty to figure out before the replacement oil valve solenoids arrive 

[Malc1]

Just don’t mix the wires up in case it all goes “ BANG “ and you’re the proud possessor of a burnt out wreck 🥵

Malc 

[Bob King]

I have one of the bigger NOCO smart chargers and alway leave the Battery connected when charging .

[2Tanks]

22 hours ago, GMB said:

BTW the charger also comes with adaptors for attaching the cables without having to access the battery at all, once they are permanently attached

Ah GMB I see that the clever noco genius5 has the option to remove the croc clips leaving the Battery connectors for direct connection too. 
Clever design 

[GMB]

1 hour ago, 2Tanks said:

Ah GMB I see that the clever noco genius5 has the option to remove the croc clips leaving the battery connectors for direct connection too. 
Clever design 

Yep, and no danger of a short circuit. Well done🙂

[Nigel Coleman]

I have both NOCO charger and jump start pack. They are excellent quality well made and useful products.

Got them mainly for my CLK 320 with the jump start pack working very well indeed - 1250 amps rating or greater should be your choice.

NOTHING BUT GOOD TO SAY ABOUT NOCO PRODUCTS.

[2Tanks]

Still waiting for the used oil valve solenoid so decided to chase the aftermarket switch wiring. 
it proved easier than expected!

 

[2Tanks]

As l mentioned before, the small rear cubbies in the boot are damp. Are these the drains which clog?

 

[Bob King]

21 minutes ago, 2Tanks said:

As l mentioned before, the small rear cubbies in the boot are damp. Are these the drains which clog?

 

Trays just take the drips off the boot if it’s opened wet, pipe is 10-12mm so not likely to block.

[2Tanks]

3 hours ago, Bob King said:

Trays just take the drips off the boot if it’s opened wet, pipe is 10-12mm so not likely to block.

Eeks

 

 

 

[Bob King]

Push the rubber grommet half out at he bottom nearest the wheel arch👍🏻

 you’ll hear it start to drain 😎

[Bob King]

Water leak in the boot will keep you busy ! Start high and work down , so 3rd brake light on boot..remove and reseal .

remove back lights and sealer around white push in clips .

much bigger job, seal inner and out side of rubber trim that runs under the rear window, inc getting up under the seal in the boot .

[2Tanks]

It was fresh water, not stagnant but 1-2” in a week is worrying. Before collection last Tuesday it has been garaged for 6 months+
i had noticed wet green sludge in the corners of the rear widow/roof joint. 
i can see a thick pipe on the drivers side ending at the grommet, however the passenger side doesn’t appear to have a pipe and the grommet appears sealed. 

[2Tanks]

7 hours ago, 2Tanks said:

i can see a thick pipe on the drivers side ending at the grommet,

I believe this visible pipe is actually the aerial drain.

[2Tanks]

Just an update. The used oil valve solenoid from the breakers seems to have cured the P1351 and P1354 codes. I have 2 new units arriving early next week from amayama. I have been waiting for ToyotaTech Guildford to have some space in his workload to take a look. I still have codes P0300, 302, 304, 306 and 308 which are all bank 2 (drivers side).
I checked all the coil packs and found quite a bit of white rubbery deposits inside the boots and around the spring.. She seems to be a little happier but is still lumpy on tickover. EML still returns after a couple of minutes, which kicks in the VSC ABS lamps too, even though the paperclip trick defeats them.
Talking to the Tech, he suspects the timing belt replacement, done 12k miles ago may have caused this issue with bank 2 being one tooth adrift. Much research on the internet seems to suggest all other things, so its still clear as mud 😅
My first serious enquiry to ChatGPT the All encompassing AI system was "Could I have a suggested diagnose and repair procedure for fault codes P0300 etc on a 2003 Lex SC430 with a 3UZ-FE engine.
I got a thorough reply which contained instructions in each of these bullet points:
Inspect Spark Plugs
Check Ignition Coils
Inspect Ignition Leads/Wires
Verify Fuel System
Inspect Air Intake System
Check Engine Compression
Inspect ECM
Clear Fault codes and Test Drive
So that should cover every eventuality 😆

[Malc1]

48 minutes ago, 2Tanks said:

he suspects the timing belt replacement, done 12k miles ago may have caused this issue with bank 2 being one tooth adrift.

so does this mean you NEED to get the cambelt re-done ?

To fix all the likely issues and bring you into calm and peace with your motoring 

Malc

[Boomer54]

57 minutes ago, 2Tanks said:

Just an update. The used oil valve solenoid from the breakers seems to have cured the P1351 and P1354 codes. I have 2 new units arriving early next week from amayama. I have been waiting for ToyotaTech Guildford to have some space in his workload to take a look. I still have codes P0300, 302, 304, 306 and 308 which are all bank 2 (drivers side).
I checked all the coil packs and found quite a bit of white rubbery deposits inside the boots and around the spring.. She seems to be a little happier but is still lumpy on tickover. EML still returns after a couple of minutes, which kicks in the VSC ABS lamps too, even though the paperclip trick defeats them.
Talking to the Tech, he suspects the timing belt replacement, done 12k miles ago may have caused this issue with bank 2 being one tooth adrift. Much research on the internet seems to suggest all other things, so its still clear as mud 😅
My first serious enquiry to ChatGPT the All encompassing AI system was "Could I have a suggested diagnose and repair procedure for fault codes P0300 etc on a 2003 Lex SC430 with a 3UZ-FE engine.
I got a thorough reply which contained instructions in each of these bullet points:
Inspect Spark Plugs
Check Ignition Coils
Inspect Ignition Leads/Wires
Verify Fuel System
Inspect Air Intake System
Check Engine Compression
Inspect ECM
Clear Fault codes and Test Drive
So that should cover every eventuality 😆

I keep up to date with this thread just to remind myself how lucky I was.

[Mossypossy]

These cars are just uxb's!

[2Tanks]

22 minutes ago, Malc1 said:

so does this mean you NEED to get the cambelt re-done ?

To fix all the likely issues and bring you into calm and peace with your motoring 

Malc

Well Malc, the cambelt, tensioner and water pump were done in August 2020 by an independent guy called Robs_Mechtech somewhere near Bedford or Milton Keynes area. It has only covered 12,000 miles since.
If it turns out that it is a notch out, I will consider having a new one put in, as he'll be halfway there.
I watched the timing belt exchange video on "The Car Care Nut" youtube channel. He's certainly a Lexus lover driving an LS400 with 600,000 on the clock.. It is edited, but he's incredibly quick.