Jacking points

[RC4ME]

Hi everyone, I’m the proud owner of an RC which I’ve had for a couple of weeks. I know there is a dedicated RC section but this one seems to have more activity and let’s face it they have much in common.

Perhaps a strange question, but I do a lot of DIY and have my own trolley jacks which in my other cars I just use on the usual jacking points. When researching my car I’m sure I read somewhere that the jacking points on the IS/RC should only be used with the supplied jack and the trolley jack be used under the central jacking points.

My concern is would a tyre fitter just stick the jack under the sill and possibly bend the jacking point and the same thing with a 4 poster lift with the arms positioned in the same place.

I see you can get rubber pads with grooves in for use with trolley jacks.

So any practical feedback would be great, anyone had problems with tyre fitters or independent garages damaging the sills and has anyone jacked the car up themselves with or without the grooved adapter?

Or am I worrying about nothing and just get on with it like any other car.

 

[Jon Dee]

Was looking at this a couple of weeks ago when jacking up my ISF. The front lifting points were already a bit mangled from indiscriminate jacking over the last 15 years. The raised double seam marked for the lifting point is strong (tried straightening it ) and research indicates that the flat metal immediately to the inside of the jacking point is also strong. The scissor jack I use (not ISF issue) lifts on the flat metal even though it fits over the seam, and no problems. However the metal/plastic to the outside is flexible and should not be used for lifting.

Logic says that if the grooved "puck" bears on the seam, then a suitable piece of flat wood will work just as well to reduce the point loading on the seam. I believe that the damage to the seam is caused by the "claws" on the trolley jack lifting cup. If one of these happens to be under the seam while jacking it will cause a point loading high enough to buckle the seam sideways. All the 2-post and 4-post lifts I have seen have a hard urethane lifting pad... more durable than a piece of wood. 

So when using a trolley jack I went with a piece of sturdy wood sitting crossways to avoid splitting. Either a little wider or narrower than the lifting cup. Doesn't matter so long as it sits level and high enough to prevent the steel of the cup contacting the seam. Works for me every time 

[ColinBarber]

You don't have to use the side jacking points, you can also use the central front and rear positions:

But yes, if you use the side points then you want a slotted block so you aren't lifting the vehicle on the seam which will fold over if not careful.

 

Jacking points are the same for the IS and RC so I'll leave this post in the IS forum.

 

[RC4ME]

14 hours ago, Jon Dee said:

Was looking at this a couple of weeks ago when jacking up my ISF. The front lifting points were already a bit mangled from indiscriminate jacking over the last 15 years. The raised double seam marked for the lifting point is strong (tried straightening it ) and research indicates that the flat metal immediately to the inside of the jacking point is also strong. The scissor jack I use (not ISF issue) lifts on the flat metal even though it fits over the seam, and no problems. However the metal/plastic to the outside is flexible and should not be used for lifting.

Logic says that if the grooved "puck" bears on the seam, then a suitable piece of flat wood will work just as well to reduce the point loading on the seam. I believe that the damage to the seam is caused by the "claws" on the trolley jack lifting cup. If one of these happens to be under the seam while jacking it will cause a point loading high enough to buckle the seam sideways. All the 2-post and 4-post lifts I have seen have a hard urethane lifting pad... more durable than a piece of wood. 

So when using a trolley jack I went with a piece of sturdy wood sitting crossways to avoid splitting. Either a little wider or narrower than the lifting cup. Doesn't matter so long as it sits level and high enough to prevent the steel of the cup contacting the seam. Works for me every time 

Great advise thank you

[RC4ME]

6 hours ago, ColinBarber said:

You don't have to use the side jacking points, you can also use the central front and rear positions:

But yes, if you use the side points then you want a slotted block so you aren't lifting the vehicle on the seam which will fold over if not careful.

 

Jacking points are the same for the IS and RC so I'll leave this post in the IS forum.

 

That’s great info and answers my question, thanks.

Any thoughts on how this affects how a garage or tyre fitter will jack the car, Jon who also replied says his had been damaged in the past.

[ColinBarber]

18 minutes ago, RC4ME said:

Any thoughts on how this affects how a garage or tyre fitter will jack the car, Jon who also replied says his had been damaged in the past.

They should use slotted blocks, but most won't. Sometimes it will be ok and at other times it won't because the car raises at an angle and pushes the seam over, or as Jon states a claw creates a small loading point. Structurally it isn't a problem but you would need to get it back into shape so you can use your scissor jack (if you have one) and paint over any cracks made in the paint/stone chip otherwise it could start to rust.

[RC4ME]

Perhaps best to stick with Lexus main dealer where possible.

[LenT]

1 hour ago, RC4ME said:

Perhaps best to stick with Lexus main dealer where possible.

That’s my general policy anyway.  But then the Lexus dealer from which I bought it is near enough to actually collect the car if I wish - and provides an excellent service.

When buying new tyres, I use the same large, local retailer and they certainly locate the trolley jacks with precision.  Whether they use locating blocks, I haven’t noticed - but will look out for them next time.  I can see that a shaped block that fits over the jacking seam would be a sensible way to spread the load and prevent distortion of the jacking point.

The Manual states that the supplied scissor jack should NOT have anything placed on top of it - or, perhaps more surprisingly - underneath.  So clearly Lexus believes that the shaped top of the scissor jack doesn’t need any additional blocks.

As a final thought, I would never put any part of myself under a car unless it was also supported on axle stands.  

As I mentioned in another post, according to the Health & Safety Executive, in the last five years 12  mechanics have died under vehicles that dropped down on to them.  And over 2,300 suffered non-fatal injuries.

[Jon Dee]

1 hour ago, LenT said:

The Manual states that the supplied scissor jack should NOT have anything placed on top of it - or, perhaps more surprisingly - underneath.  

Putting anything on top of a scissor jack when lifting a car would be an incredibly dodgy move !!! That would completely defeat the design of the slotted top and be hugely unstable. Placing a block of wood under a scissor jack to get more lift is merely dodgy. The taller the jack the more chance there is of it toppling, so make sure at least two wheels are securely chocked. If jacking the car on a soft surface, a wide piece of flat wood placed under the jack is a good idea. 

It is interesting to note that the ISF has sufficient torsional rigidity that when using a scissor jack under the front seam jacking point the same side rear wheel can be lifted off the ground. The jack is effectively lifting half the cars weight, and I can't bench press 850kg. So I always place axle stands or wood blocks to support the car and remove the jack before starting work. Same deal with trolley jacks. 

Cheers...