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Posted

hello everyone, I have a problem that after a complete rebuild of the engine, the car does not want to start, the fuel goes but there are no spark plugs spark, today I checked all the fuses, they were all fine, I disconnected the ecu and all the connectors in that box, I cleaned everything and plugged it in again, after that I suddenly had a spark for two starts and then nothing again, even after reconnecting, I don't know what's wrong and I'm at a loss, I don't know if the immobilizer could do it, the car was disconnected for 6 months and I only have something like 0.5V on the coils when starting, as if something is blocking the voltage, I just don't know how it's possible that after the first disconnection it worked for me twice and then it didn't work again Can you please give me some advice?

Posted

What is the voltage at the Battery (a) with key/ignition OFF, and (b) with the key/ignition ON ? 

All the ignition coils I have ever encountered (not that many) have a 12V feed. Below 12V there will be a threshold, that if you drop below a certain voltage the coil will not fire.  But usually, by the time your voltage drops that low the engine won't turn over on the starter either. 

Cheers...

Posted

The Battery is charged with the fact that it doesn't have enough voltage, it won't be a problem, I rather feel as if something is blocking the voltage supply to the coils and I still don't understand why after disconnecting and connecting the ecu it had a spark twice and then no more, I went through the complete wiring and it is not damaged because I rewrapped it during the rebuild

Posted
11 hours ago, Phillip253 said:

I'm not sure i mean was flashing

Does it stop flashing when you insert the key?
If it doesn’t there is a procedure to reset.

  • Like 1

Posted

today I tried diagnostics and it showed errors P1300, P1305, P1310, P1315, P1320, P1325, P1330 and after deleting these errors they did not start again, do you know how they can be solved?

Posted

Deleting the codes will not sort the problem, all the codes are related to each ignition coil.

You really need the wiring diagrams and at least a multimeter to check the circuits.

You have reconnected the Crank Position Sensor located near the crank pulley?

 

Posted

I know, I have a multimeter, I'm an electromechanic in electricity, I'm not lost, I just don't have a wiring diagram, so I don't know what to measure, yes, I disconnected and reconnected the sensor, and during the rebuild it was out of the console and cleaned

Posted

Today i was measure voltage on coil connector + ,between head cover - and i have around 12,2V on all coils connectors i mean it isnt because they have no voltage i mean it can be only signal for coils or something else which block signal for coils

Posted

As you refer to coils in the plural. I assume that your engine has individual coils for each cylinder. Usually there are four wires... 12V supply, ground, IGt and IGf. As the engine fires up it is safe to say that the first three are correct, however for the engine to continue running, there must be an IGf signal back to the ECU after a certain number of IGt signals have been sent out. If the ECU does not receive IGf signals it will stop sending IGt signals to the coils and the engine will stop. 

To eliminate this possibility you need to check that the ECU is receiving IGf signals, and that you have continuity from the IGf pin on each coil to the ECU. 

EDIT: When you say this... "I only have something like 0.5V on the coils when starting" where are you measuring the voltage ?? With 4-wire coils the IGt signal should be a 5V pulse. Are you just seeing 0.5V flat line with no pulse during cranking ?? 

Now the classic one size fits all response... have you checked your grounds ?? :biggrin: 

Cheers...


Posted

Yes you have true , my engine do not fires up ,yesterday i will test coils and i hope is it coils

Posted

I doubt all six coils have failed simultaneously, following Jon’s advice you need to confirm the coils are feeding back a signal to the engine ECU. The only way to confirm this is with an oscilloscope and look at the waveform.

Jon also mentioned the “grounds” or earth wires, there should be 2, one from the Battery negative to the chassis/body and another to the engine block.

Regarding wiring diagrams you can access the Toyota technical site for a fee (even one day is enough) to download the information or sometimes get CD ROM copies from the likes of eBay.

  • Like 1
Posted

Today ,i measure and tested coils i find coil which was on 2 cylinder is fault and do not spark another coils sprarkling goods, yes i understand your solution but i dont have osciloscope , can you give me link where i can buy "Toyota technical site" for check wiring ? 

Posted

Yes i maesure 12V on coils connectors i will test new coils from my friend who have same car 

Posted
5 hours ago, Phillip253 said:

can you give me link where i can buy "Toyota technical site" for check wiring ? 

I attached a couple of diagrams in my previous post which may be enough. You can access the official info here for €4 per hour:

https://www.lexus-tech.eu

 

Posted

You dont know what is a specific oil pressure for this engine on idle? I have 12-14psi in 2000rpm i have 35-40 psi

Posted

That seems low....

Hot or cold as pressure will drop as hot oil has lower viscosity.

Posted

thank you so much, according to this, it looks like I'm doing more than well, I couldn't find this information.

 

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