Rear Tyres Pace P10

[Ozzay]

245/45 R17

Put these tyres on the rear from BlackCircles after reading reviews left by people with decent cars Mercs Audis BMWS and saw an IS250 review as well.

Decent in the dry and good grip and seem fine on the motorway. But the car feels floaty. Steering got a bit lighter. Small cracks on the road seem to have the steering wheel move a bit sometimes. In a way its quite good because it seem a little more fun to drive.

Had to get rid of my Assym 5 at the back only had for one year 9000 miles due to a nail on the shoulder. Was repaired but definately was not driving properly. Thought I would try the cheap brand for £150.

Anyone experienced similar tyres like this. They do seem quiet and smooth I have to say but not sure about how long they will last. The garage man mentioned Kumho tyres. I have Assym 6 at the front recently new.

[Linas.P]

Sorry mate - there is no other way to put it nicely, but they are danger to life and massive waste of money. I know exactly what you mean when you say there are reviews with people that drive "decent cars", even high performance ones, but you need to deduct that majority of people are idiots so reviews are inherently flawed. I have seen 1 star reviews for amazing tyres like Dunlop RT2s and Assy5s and so on because delivery was late, or because they got puncture... I have seen people saying Michelins only get them 5000 miles and poor fuel efficiency... why? Because obviously they ran them underinflated, tell-tale sigh - in the same review they say they had to replace them because outside of tyre worn out quickly . And I see glowing reviews for "cheap and cheerful" chinesium death traps that should not be called tyres, because people just don't know any better. So take any review with extreme prejudice and bucket of salt!

Apart of many being literal idiots not many of us are racing drivers or tyre experts, including myself, so how you expect people to judge the tyres when they never put them trough any sort challenge or comparison?! Yes sure they will drive just fine on motorway, hopefully if they at least round, which by the way is not guaranteed with chinesium tyres. Who is there to say that when you take bend at speed and there is sheep on the road and you have to brake your rears won't overtake your fronts?! Wouldn't that be brilliant? In short - driving on motorway, or in the dry is not tyre test, what you want is for them to be safe in extreme circumstances, that is going trough standing water on the road at speed, hard braking, especially in corner with lateral force etc. And only that is going to tell you if tyre is any good. And I know the answer to this - "I am not racing my car and I am not speeding, and I keep my distance" - fine... other people don't do that and you may need to react to something which isn't your own making, kids are dumb, they will run in front of cars, animals run in front of cars, other drivers may cut you off etc. Point is - you may have to brake in emergency and tyres (not brakes) are the only thing that keeps you on the road. So driving safely is good, but tyres should be fitted in preparation for extreme circumstances.

Now there is other angle to this - from monetary perspective it just doesn't make sense. There is two possibilities here with cheap tyres - either they are hard compound, they will last the mileage, but they will be hard and extremely unsafe on wet and in colder days in general, or they will be soft compound and grip will feel alright, they will overheat on hot days and they will wear quickly. To some degree all tyres are the same compromise, but premium tyres have better technology and they blend the compounds in such a way that they get best compromise out of it. So what is good that you saved 30%, when your tyre only lasts 30%, from monetary perspective they actually cost more per mile. 

As well... £75 for 17" tyre? That is horrible price... I paid £68 for Yokohamas on 18" (be it with £40 discount for 4, so they were £78 basically), so they aren't even that cheap!

So yeah - sorry for the rant, but there is no place in my world for chinesium death traps, NONE of them are good, just consider they don't exist. If saving money is the goal, which I struggle to understand considering one tank of fuel is nowadays probably £90, and yet decent tyres probably only cost £20 per tyre more... then midrange brands are the answer - Toyos, Yokohamas, Kuhmos, Verdsteins, Sumitomos etc. are the way to go. They are not as good as premium tyres and probably don't last as much, but at least they are safe. And as well with little bit of research you will find out that for example Uniroyals are made by Michelin in Europe, Sava and Debica are made by Goodyear/Dunlop, Sumitomo is what owns and makes Falkens and Maxxis, so there is plenty of choice in this middle bracket which is usable. But all the budget tyres are without exception trash, there are tests to prove that, so - objectively speaking trash!

Sadly, Pace was not on this test, but it will be there in the middle of the pack, short summary - stopping 1m before the obstacle and 6 meters past it could make a difference when the obstacle is back of the truck, or if you sensitive a child:

 

[LenT]

 

29 minutes ago, Linas.P said:

I know exactly what you mean when you say there are reviews with people that drive "decent cars", even high performance ones, but you need to deduct that majority of people are idiots so reviews are inherently flawed. I

As Linas hints, there’s reviews and there’s reviews!  😊

Firstly, it’s not a good idea to have different makes on different axles - although putting the newest tyres on the rear axle is correct.

However, I believe that the Pace 10 may be a ‘run flat’ - unlike the Goodyear 5s.  This means the Pace has a thicker sidewall and will have different ride characteristics to the Goodyears.  Which could mean that in stressed conditions the front and rear axles will have very different levels of response.

Indeed it may even account for the slightly erratic steering that you’re currently enjoying!

Of course, this is all a bit late as I expect having made this buying decision you’ll not be inclined to dump them for a new pair of the excellent Goodyears!

So just drive very, very carefully.

I thought you might be interested in a professional assessment of the Pace 10.

https://www.tyrereviews.com/Tyre/Pace/PC10.htm

Not an encouraging read, unfortunately.  But at least a warning to others!

[Ozzay]

Oh well I did it again. Buying without thinking. 

Tyre punctures destroyed a hefty amount of money so I thought let me buy cheap. But did not expect the ride to be different it does feel like im skating but at the same time it feels like the grip is there without any actual slide going on. Is it that my cars turned into a Rolls Royce. Motorways clean roads they are fine.

I know you get what you pay for. The tyre guy said buy off me next time lol. Why could he not say that at the start he said buy KUMHO. But my option is either by ASYM 6 to match the front or buy something that I previously had that worked. Hankook ventus.

 

I have Assym 6 at the front because I got them on a deal.

I could probably sell my tyres cheaply but who would buy them.

 

Think you both are right. Something about the front tyres not exactly working well with the rear tyre. But then again now I am thinking could suspension components be worn. I really don't know. But I definitely could tell the car was heavier and wasn't staying on the road without effort when the shoulder was punctured/repaired.

[Linas.P]

19 minutes ago, LenT said:

 

As Linas hints, there’s reviews and there’s reviews!  😊

Firstly, it’s not a good idea to have different makes on different axles - although putting the newest tyres on the rear axle is correct.

However, I believe that the Pace 10 may be a ‘run flat’ - unlike the Goodyear 5s.  This means the Pace has a thicker sidewall and will have different ride characteristics to the Goodyears.  Which could mean that in stressed conditions the front and rear axles will have very different levels of response.

Indeed it may even account for the slightly erratic steering that you’re currently enjoying!

Of course, this is all a bit late as I expect having made this buying decision you’ll not be inclined to dump them for a new pair of the excellent Goodyears!

So just drive very, very carefully.

I thought you might be interested in a professional assessment of the Pace 10.

https://www.tyrereviews.com/Tyre/Pace/PC10.htm

Not an encouraging read, unfortunately.  But at least a warning to others!

Didn't quite realised how old is this tyre - the Autobild tested it in 2014 against such competitors like literally ancient Uniroyal RainSport 2 (that is before Michelin acquired them and made excellent RainSport 3) and Dunlop RT, not even RT2... and still it was 48th out of 50... ouch.

[Linas.P]

6 minutes ago, Ozzay said:

Oh well I did it again. Buying without thinking. 

Tyre punctures destroyed a hefty amount of money so I thought let me buy cheap. But did not expect the ride to be different it does feel like im skating but at the same time it feels like the grip is there without any actual slide going on. Is it that my cars turned into a Rolls Royce. Motorways clean roads they are fine.

I know you get what you pay for. The tyre guy said buy off me next time lol. Why could he not say that at the start he said buy KUMHO. But my option is either by ASYM 6 to match the front or buy something that I previously had that worked. Hankook ventus.

 

I have Assym 6 at the front because I got them on a deal.

I could probably sell my tyres cheaply but who would buy them.

 

Think you both are right. Something about the front tyres not exactly working well with the rear tyre. But then again now I am thinking could suspension components be worn. I really don't know. But I definitely could tell the car was heavier and wasn't staying on the road without effort when the shoulder was punctured/repaired.

Few review mentioned that this tyre in particular caused them to think alignment wasn't right, car was wondering on the road and that bearing was worn out... surely as I said, take a bucket of salt before reading reviews, but may that have something to do with your suspicion of something being wrong in suspension? 

[Ozzay]

6 minutes ago, Linas.P said:

Few review mentioned that this tyre in particular caused them to think alignment wasn't right, car was wondering on the road and that bearing was worn out... surely as I said, take a bucket of salt before reading reviews, but may that have something to do with your suspicion of something being wrong in suspension? 

Possibly.

 

The Dunlops you recommended for the fronts years ago on here were only replaced a month ago they were decent except the crabbing in winter but that might be most tyres rear wheel driven in winter. Had a puncture in them too and because the rear had a puncture once it made it seem like the car was shimmying more than it should over little cracks locally.

[Linas.P]

Yeah Dunlops - RT and RT2 had crabbing, so does Uniroyal RainSport 3, so does all the tyres excellent in terms of aquaplaning. I am not sure if there is a tyre today which is focused so much on good wet performance, basically everything is compromise on tyre and to get excellent aquaplaning resistance one has to accept crabbing. Simply said they have deep and distinct ribs as a thread pattern which is excellent for pushing the water out, but as a downside when turning the wheels when stationary they could be crabbing, especially on colder morning. As technically one should not turn the wheels on stationary car (I know theory is quite far from practical in real life) and I knew what is causing the crabbing, that never concerned me, but some people can't live with it... even replaced perfectly good tyres just for that.

[Ozzay]

You reckon I should just get assym 6 at the back now since the front has them don't know if assym 5 are better they are more popular due to the time they been around I'm sure 6 is better but maybe I should check my suspension first.

[Linas.P]

I think Assym 6s beaten 5s on all metrics, perheps depends on size, but both are excellent tyres. 

I would replace tyres first, then do all 4 wheels alignment, always do that when fit new tyres, because I see tyres as long term investment basically, they should last 30k miles after all, so giving them best chance to work is when you fit them. And only then I would start looking for problems with suspension, I know it may sound slightly counter intuitive as alignment will be required once you fix the suspension, but how are you planning to isolate the issue if you have poor tyres and poor alignment. So I would say first set the car "straight" and see if the issue remains as otherwise it will be very hard to identify what is actually wrong. 

The other possibility if you doing everything at the same time, and could get obvious things inspected on suspension, then do that before fitting tyres and alignment, things like worn out ball-joints, or wheel bearing, check that wheels don't have play in them etc. and only then replace tyres. But to be fair it is very hard to identify issue with suspension unless something is very obviously lose and worn out to the level where wheel have a noticeable play in them. 

[Ozzay]

The tyre guy such a snake. 

 

He tells me after I would never put this on my car and he said you should have spent more and bought Kumo.

 

He tells me all this after fitting the tyre lol. Maybe because it was black circles order and it might look fishy everytime he advises customers and returns them.