GS300 MOT prep

[Linas.P]

MOT is due in couple of weeks time, so I was just going trough MOT checklist and noticed few unusual things in this old beastie. 

To my surprised was that brake fluid reservoir was full to the brim, at first I thought it was empty, but then when I removed cap I realised it is literally overflowing. Goon news it is clear yellowish/greenish fluid, so I assume someone have topped it up maybe before replacing brake pads (as I can see all the discs and pads are nearly new). So quite easy fix, just going to bleed the brakes until the level is just below maximum and that as well will act as little bit of brake flush which isn't bad thing considering the age of the car.

Then I noticed that passenger side windscreen washer jet isn't working (most likely clogged). Would I be right to assume that both must be working to pass, so even thought single jet effectively covers and washes windscreen it would still fail?!

[ColinBarber]

15 minutes ago, Linas.P said:

Would I be right to assume that both must be working to pass, so even thought single jet effectively covers and washes windscreen it would still fail?!

Yes, the tester will assume that if the manufacturer fitted two then they would both be needed to keep the screen clear in severe conditions.

[Linas.P]

On 9/3/2023 at 5:57 PM, ColinBarber said:

Yes, the tester will assume that if the manufacturer fitted two then they would both be needed to keep the screen clear in severe conditions.

Thanks,

So it turns out I had ants blocking the jet and little return valve... so many of them that it could not even blow air into the pipe at first... little bit of poking and detergent and jet now works as it suppose to.

Just make sure to get clips for hood insulation, as they very hard to remove and every second brakes

At least these ones are kind of generic and cheap:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/392013723987

[LenT]

1 hour ago, Linas.P said:

So it turns out I had ants blocking the jet and little return valve... so many of them that it could not even blow air into the pipe at first...

Ants in the washer jets!!  Well, that’s not something you come across every day.

Presumably they somehow came in through the bottle end; or a ruptured pipe or connector.  I can’t imagine even one very ambitious ant - let alone a gang - venturing through the hole of a spray jet!

All the best with the MOT.  👍

[Linas.P]

Yeah - that was surprising, because I blew some black stuff out and wanted to check what it was and it turned out it was like 20 small black ants. Only two in the jet thought.

My theory is that they somehow got into washer bottle, maybe an old story before I got the car... would be interesting to know how they made through washer pump and why they only decided to stay in passenger side jet and not both. Perhaps we will never know!

[LenT]

37 minutes ago, Linas.P said:

…and why they only decided to stay in passenger side jet and not both.

None of them could drive?

Well, that’s my theory anyway!

[Spock66]

1 hour ago, Linas.P said:

and why they only decided to stay in passenger side jet and not both

They came from Europe so used to left hand drive cars 🙂

[Linas.P]

Note to self - "don't use honey scented windscreen wash again"!

[Linas.P]

Sadly it has failed the MOT, but consolation is at least that it wasn't something obvious (I hate when cars fail on faulty bulb or tyres worn down to cords, things that could have been easily checked by 5 years old). Secondly, it had many failures in the past, so it is not like tainting clean record anyway - I am quite relaxed about it.

It was hand brake efficiency below 50%, which is kind of unfortunate as the hand brake works fine and it is kind of redundant on automatic car, so I would have never known.

And secondly - failed emissions on lambda. They reckon it is because of few small holes in exhaust, but I expected it to be just advisory for "minor exhaust leak". Again kind of unfortunate as it actually passed the emissions and lambda fail just means there is excess oxygen in exhaust. It does makes sense that hole in exhaust could cause it, but didn't seem to be obvious enough leak to suspect anything.

So have few things to address until actual MOT expires, not ideal considering handbrake is considered "dangerous" fault... (NO IT ISN'T on auto car and especially considering it still somewhat works, but in theory I can't drive it). This was done by Lexus, so they reckon handbrake could be simply adjusted (not sure why they haven't attempted that during the services or even after MOT, could have saved me the inconvenience) and once holes are fixed on exhaust it should be good on emissions as well.

Will see how it goes...

[johnatg]

21 hours ago, Linas.P said:

Sadly it has failed the MOT,

So have few things to address until actual MOT expires, not ideal considering handbrake is considered "dangerous" fault... (

Once the car has failed it has no MoT. The previous thing when you had a paper MoT no longer applies

[Linas.P]

3 hours ago, johnatg said:

Once the car has failed it has no MoT. The previous thing when you had a paper MoT no longer applies

I know that... however I will take a risk of getting car to repair shop.

[Spock66]

1 hour ago, Linas.P said:

I know that... however I will take a risk of getting car to repair shop.

Driving to a pre-booked appointment for a repair or MOT is permitted.

[Linas.P]

1 minute ago, Spock66 said:

Driving to a pre-booked appointment for a repair or MOT is permitted.

Isn't it ONLY MOT? As well I think this applies only to minor faults. Cars with dangerous fault cannot be driven at all if I understand correctly. 

[Spock66]

It does apply to repairs too, on the basis that not all MOT Centres undertake repairs.

[HPS13]

From GovUK - MOT 

Driving a vehicle that’s failed

You can take your vehicle away if:

• your current MOT certificate is still valid
• no ‘dangerous’ problems were listed in the MOT

Otherwise, you’ll need to get it repaired before you can drive.

[Linas.P]

Ok - so parking brake is fixed, I checked it and it was lose, locking nut just finger tight and that is all. Removed the locking nut turned the adjustment nut maybe 15 times, handbrake clearly engaged but was still quite weak, another 15 turns and now handbrake is rock solid! 

I must note - I am really not impressed with Lexus centre, it is just 10mm nut and 2 minutes fix. Now sure that is just me and I am picky and entitled, and horrible person, but for £306 they can certainly spend 2 min adjusting the handbrake and avoiding the situation where car fails MOT and is undrivable due to "dangerous" fault. Am I expecting too much?!

Ohhh and by the way continuing on my whinge... I thought that £306 will include filters and oils, but it turns out that is the price pretty much for the oil and oil filter only. The air filter was obviously not changed and before service I thought I will check cabin filter... in fact it was so nasty I didn't even bother to put it back in, so I just left it on passenger floor. When I picked-up the car the same dirty filter was still on the passenger floor. They did advise me that maybe I want £180 wheel alignment, £150 A/C service, £30 fuel cleaner, £2850 middle exhaust pipe, but they didn't find it appropriate to advise that car maybe needed £2 worth of cabin air filter, or UNBELIEVABLE - maybe replace it FOC as a show of appreciation of my customs and for the continuing business in the future. Just to be clear - they not forgotten it, it is simply not included, so it is not centre fault it is Lexus GB pricing. 

I would say their service is "alright", but I just don't feel like they putting that "effort" to give satisfactory service and care. And £306 is just extortion for oil change on 10+ years old cars (and this is already with complimentary 10% off!). Certainly, "essential care" was the right product to keep the clientele engaged. 

[Linas.P]

Happy to report that car has now passed MOT without advisories. In the end it did require new brake shoes for £18 and mounting kit for £12, as well few welds on exhaust for £40. The brakes realistically would have been fine with simple adjustment, but I didn't want to risk it so replaced them with new parts. The exhaust will probably require full middle section replacement eventually, patching it worked this time, but it will become harder and harder to weld on it as the rust slowly consumes it from inside.

Those who have done brake shoes on their cars hopefully will agree that the design of the parts is probably the worst design of any serviceable car part ever, particularly the pins with caps that hold shoes in place. No wonder Lexus charges 3 hours labour to replace them, which I was advised would be ~£700. Yep - £700 to replace brake shoes that costs £81.88 for Lexus genuine part (https://lexuspartsdirect.co.uk/product/lexus-gs-phase-3-hand-brake-shoe)! Math works out £180x3h for labour +£82 and I assume £30-70 for various miscellaneous things like grease, brake cleaner, old parts disposal. So despite wanting to punch the Lexus rep in the face when he told me the price... I can see where he is coming from. And obviously I am joking, but I was like "what £700 and 3 hours labour, I reckon I can do it in 1 hour and I am not even qualified technician with the lift and specialised tools". And that is true - I completed the work in 2 hours, but lost my knuckles, finger tips (still hurts after a week) and decent amount of my hand skin in the process... despite wearing gloves and amount of swearing involved was certainly very high!

Quick question - does anyone know where to get rear brake dust shields for reasonable price? Mine are literally crumbling away as I drive, but replacement are £400 each (https://lexuspartsdirect.co.uk/product/lexus-gs-phase-3-o-s-parking-brake-backing-plate/), I have found them for slightly more reasonable ~£118 each directly from Japan + risk of import duties (https://www.amayama.com/en/part/toyota/4650330230), but it still seems to be unreasonably pricey considering identical plate for front only costs £40 in UK (https://lexuspartsdirect.co.uk/product/lexus-gs-phase-3-n-s-front-brake-heat-shield/). What is so special about rear plates that they are 10 times the price?

[J Henderson]

1 hour ago, Linas.P said:

What is so special about rear plates that they are 10 times the price?

Not much other than they are moulded a certain way to accommodate the parking brake. Whereas, the front ones are probably a more basic flat shape. Still doesn't justify the exorbitant cost though. Even the amayama price seems ridiculous for a piece of pressed steel.

If the rust issues are localised to where the locating pins are situated, an old trick is to "patch" the backing plate with a copper coin. Pre-drilled, of course and use it as a kind of washer.

[Linas.P]

I guess if there is no cheaper way then £118 isn't end of the world, just little bit surprising. At first I thought maybe it is discontinued part, but actually it is shared with GS350/RC350/IS250/IS200t, so there are plenty of relatively modern cars that still uses it. 

Luckily mine are just cosmetic problem, the lip all around can be crumbled with fingers and turns into dust, but the holes for pins and areas pressed for pads where grease goes are still solid. If they were £40 or let's say £60 each because of slightly more complicated pressing then I would definitely replace them. Now I probably leave them alone until I start working tidying-up surface rust on rear subframe.