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Posted

I have been thinking to do rust proofing/treatment for my car(Surface corrosion advisory in the recent MOT).   I discussed the issue with couple of rust repair shops and findings are given below.

1. Quote £250 -  Suggested to clean up, treat and apply rust prevention agents at affected area only.   

2.  Quote £550  - They may use DINITROL  and/or Waxoyl.  Same as 1 and recommended to go with full underseal (a full clean down of the whole undercarriage of the vehicle. Thoroughly cleaned and all rust eleminated by applying ML rust inhibitior to the full undercarriage. Once dry we seal the full undercarriage including chassis, floor sections, suspension arms, brake disc covers, steering bars, front/rear trailing arms, wheel carrier supports, tank/tank guard, boot floor, front/rear bumper internal supports, arch externals with black undercarriage top coat. Clear coat cavity wax is then injected into the internal sections of the chassis to treat the inside out - this clear coat is also applied to the door inners and body seems before a clean off and seal to body work).  https://www.cskautomotive.co.uk/the-rust-prevention-centre/

3. Quote £500 - Same as 2, They will use waxoyl.  https://www.waxoyltreatment.co.uk/

Please let me know your opinion. thanks in advance!

Posted

I have same from my MOT and I’ve noticed this is now a favoured advisory as I’ve seen more feedback on this topic. 

Rear coil spring on one side and rear chassis mounting points on my LS400 year 2000

I have a wire brush, drill and wire brush attachment; kurust bottle, hammerite type spray paint.

Cost is time and effort plus £14 paint and kurust.
 

 

  • Like 2
Posted

somewhere here recently, the past few days someone mentioned  .......  dry ice spraying to clear off rust etc

now where was that  ???

Malc

Posted

Try and avoid using underseal

as it can prove a haven for water being trapped between it and the steel hiding corrosion until it’s too late 

Clean and treat affected areas using a rust eater/converter and then  use a decent underbody wax ( waxoyl or similar ) and totally cover the underside of the car , you can do cavities as well if you do wish 

photos are of a 25yr old corolla G6 I’m currently restoring .Car was bottomed and treated, removable chassis crossmembers powder coated  , rest of underside and wheel arches primed up using etch primer /paint/lacquer , last job is to apply a coat of wax as it self repairs 

Bilt Hamber do a decent kit , Lanoguard  also do one .C00137FA-FC71-4EE9-A82E-54A6DA290596.thumb.jpeg.5bebd5a1a7cafabd97756a2a800658dc.jpegDD49F7CB-091A-4B76-AFE5-63AFAC481EB2.thumb.jpeg.cc143e674d60ae062c7f8a4625d86e32.jpeg

 

  • Like 4
Posted

In for a penny, in for a pound. So that would rule out option 1 for me. Of the others my preference would be for 2, but only because I favour Dinitrol over Waxoyl. Alternatively, if you feel inclined, you could do it yourelf quite cheaply after cleaning up the affected areas. My approach has been:

Remove wheels and arch liners and give the area a good clean, then spray inside arches and fuel/brake pipes etc with Dynax UB. Spray underside with UB, and any cavities with Dynax S50. The Dynax spray cans come with a lance for getting into cavities, and so make the job quite quick and easy.

Once it's dried I then give everything a liberal spray of ACF 50  for good measure, and to get into any nooks and crannies. Finally I rub some ACF 50 Corriosion Block grease around the inner metal lip of the arches.  The Dynax in the cavities and arches should be good for 2 or 3 years, but I do the underside annually, as it only takes about an hour.

Even if you get it done professionally, I'd still probably give the underside a spray every year. I usually do that Sept/Oct after MOT and service, so the garage doesn't face an oily mess, and in time for winter road salting. Around April I then give the underside a good rinse with a cheap lawn sprayer on the end of a hose, to wash off any salt and winter crud.

  • Like 4

Posted
53 minutes ago, Malc1 said:

and Dry Ice Spraying  ???

Malc

I haven't come across that Malcolm, although many years ago a doctor once used dry ice on me to remove a verruca 🙂

  • Haha 1
Posted

There are a few places that do dry-ice blasting. It's very good at getting rust off whilst doing no damage to the metal, but you cannot use it on sheet metal as the cold warps it. Then again sand blasting heats the metal so you normally have to use plastic beads or crushed nut shells on that kind of material to avoid warping it.

Posted

Wow,  thank you all for the excellent tips and recommendations that will definitely help me to narrow down the options.  

  • Like 2
Posted

When the weather gets a bit warmer I will treat my 400 with a clean and Kurust a rust. Then I will try Lanoguard. Apparently it is easy and quick to apply. The only disadvantage is that it needs applying annually.

  • Like 2
Posted
On 4/23/2023 at 2:31 PM, Spacewagon52 said:

When the weather gets a bit warmer I will treat my 400 with a clean and Kurust a rust. Then I will try Lanoguard. Apparently it is easy and quick to apply. The only disadvantage is that it needs applying annually.

If it's as thin to  apply as ACF 50, it's not much of a chore to do annually David. My annual underbody spray of ACF 50 only takes about 15-20 minutes. I use a garden sprayer with a lance, which let's me reach everywhere I need without having to jack the car up. One of these:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08N58758Y/?coliid=I3IPVH0UFFFCFJ&colid=203AFAPEB1ZSC&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1

Actually not a bad price at the moment, on offer at £10.99 from £17.99.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Posted
17 hours ago, Bluemarlin said:

If it's as thin to  apply as ACF 50, it's not much of a chore to do annually David. My annual underbody spray of ACF 50 only takes about 15-20 minutes. I use a garden sprayer with a lance, which let's me reach everywhere I need without having to jack the car up. One of these:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08N58758Y/?coliid=I3IPVH0UFFFCFJ&colid=203AFAPEB1ZSC&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1

Actually not a bad price at the moment, on offer at £10.99 from £17.99.

B Brilliant thank you. The Lanoguard comes with a spray bottle I believe but a long lance would be handy.

Posted

Hot tip, don't let ACF drip onto monoblock paving on your drive. Don't ask how I know, but it doesn't come off easily.

 

Pete

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Posted
23 minutes ago, plastic orange said:

Hot tip, don't let ACF drip onto monoblock paving on your drive. Don't ask how I know, but it doesn't come off easily.

 

Pete

Good tip, because it does drip quite a bit when applying it. I usually grab a few cardboard boxes from the recycling bin, flatten them, and leave them under the car for a day a so after spraying it.

  • Thanks 1

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