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I've been noticing some mildly strange behavior with my engine, and now it may be becoming more concrete


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Now with the cold weather, I have been noticing my engine is wants to stall all the time till it warms up. This is normally a problem with yesteryears car right? Not common in modern cars. I have to really get on the gas it it's not moving. It also seems to backfire/misfire or whatever it's called. Kind of pops. Not very different from the "cool pops" some cars like the F-type has. Except it happens when I accelerate. The pops happen very sporadically, but speciall when cold and after I floor it so it won't stall when cold and not moving.

But just now I noticed something else for the first time. The revs were going up and down at idle. The tach was showing the needle goig up and down. It did a couple of times. After the engine was warm, not any more. This worries me as they start doing this when the infamous valve problem thing starts right? Today I also had a VSC Check light ON problem. See my other thread here: 

Could it be related to the VSC? Is it to worry? Maybe the VSC thing is a coincidence that happened right after an oli change and was not caused by some incompetent technician dropping oil on a sensor or smething?

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18 hours ago, Lex_utor said:

Unfortunately I don't. I used Torque app before with othercars. But I haven't a Bluetooth OBD at the moment.  Is it worth trying torque with this car or do I need a proper reader?

I have used the torque app - yes its basic but it will give you an idea of the area to focus on

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Probably nothing but as you are waiting for an adaptor, may as well check easy things.

This happened straight after an air filter change so check the MAF sensor has been reconnected. If is it, disconnect it and see what happens.
I'd also be inclined to open the air filter box and re-seat it in case it hasnt been properly sealed.

If the MAF isn't working correctly, it will cause an erratic idle (and give a warning).

On BMW, if you disconnect the MAF completely, the car uses a default value of air so whilst it doesn't run correctly, would result in a stable idle speed. I have no idea if Lexus is the same but worth a shot, it costs nothing and takes minutes.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Thanks. I checked the MAF sensor and it's connected. And no service on the filter has been carried. It has the Fsport filter box and filter. So it's washable it seems and needs no replacement. 

 

 

OBD adapter arrived and I bought Torque Pro for my phone. I just scanned it twice. It says it finds no faults in the ECU.

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18 minutes ago, Spock66 said:

Could be a vacuum leak somewhere, check the oil filler cap is tightly sealed and all hose clamps etc.

Interestingly, I started having bigger problems a couple of weeks ago, after an oil change. My VSC check light went ON and is still ON (see other thread). They complained the oil filter was on VERY tight when they tried to change it. But managed to get it out. Coincidence?

Now I also smell some burned smell coming from the grill, which I thought smelled like electric burn instead of oil though. 

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19 minutes ago, Lex_utor said:

I often see used scanners for sale. Should I buy one of them? Are they better than just Torque? Any recommendations?

A Mini-VCI cable and Techstream will give you the best interface (equivalent to a Toyota main dealer). I think you can buy licenses to use it for a single day for not much money.

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8 minutes ago, m4rkw said:

A Mini-VCI cable and Techstream will give you the best interface (equivalent to a Toyota main dealer). I think you can buy licenses to use it for a single day for not much money.

Thanks. I will look into that.

 

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In the mean time, while searching for people with similar problems, I found a comment on a youtube video, saying he also got the VSC check light ON after an oil change, which is exactly what happened to me a couple of weeks ago and this was the answer: image.thumb.png.4acbd3ba2736cb70ab8218085fb84ca0.png

 

Does that carry any water?

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4 minutes ago, Lex_utor said:

Does that carry any water?

I would say no. Not saying it's incorrect, just that you don't have any evidence for the claim. There's one light and hundreds of things that can make it come on. Codes will provide clues but not always a definitive diagnosis, which is why technicians cost as much as they do because diagnosis is the skill.

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36 minutes ago, m4rkw said:

A Mini-VCI cable and Techstream will give you the best interface (equivalent to a Toyota main dealer). I think you can buy licenses to use it for a single day for not much money.

I seem to have found one. It's basically just the OBDII cable adapter, right? This one says the software is included. Am I correct that once I have the OBDII cable adapter and the software, I just need to install it on any laptop and connect the laptop to the car using the USB > OBDII cable?

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17 minutes ago, Lex_utor said:

I seem to have found one. It's basically just the OBDII cable adapter, right? This one says the software is included. Am I correct that once I have the OBDII cable adapter and the software, I just need to install it on any laptop and connect the laptop to the car using the USB > OBDII cable?

Yes pal,just connect with the cable straight on OBD reader.And take care from where you fill up fuel,i forgot Shell or BP,only Tesco-Esso 99 Momentum

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21 minutes ago, Lex_utor said:

I seem to have found one. It's basically just the OBDII cable adapter, right? This one says the software is included. Am I correct that once I have the OBDII cable adapter and the software, I just need to install it on any laptop and connect the laptop to the car using the USB > OBDII cable?

It's a bit more complicated, OBDII is a generic term for the connector, not the car interface. You need a "Mini VCI" cable, with drivers that are compatible with your version of windows. Some sellers on eBay will bundle cracked versions of Techstream with the cable but I wouldn't recommend using those.

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So the Mini-VCI is on the way. As it turns out, the seller is a former IS250 owner and used this with the car. So I guess it should work. 🙂 Fingers crossed it will help me solve the problems I'm having. 

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  • 5 weeks later...

Any update on this OP? I'm having a similar issue, engine has started idling a little lower than it used to (around 500rpm now its usually around 700) it's causing the car vibrate when sat still. No fault codes come up when I scan it. 

I've switched from Tesco momentum to Sainsburys super unleaded  as it's a lot closer/convenient so I'm not sure if it's the fuel that's causing the issue or maybe something else, Sticking caliper maybe? 

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