New owner

[Tomtit]

I photocopy the relevant pages, put them in plastic sleeves (the ones with holes down the side for clip files) and take them outside to work on the car. This keeps the workshop manual clean.

[Lexiguy]

Blimy Richard...that's a bit organised!

Excellent idea and one I will certainly use on my next project.

Thanks, Ant

[Tomtit]

The Halfords torque wrench arrived 24 hours after ordering. It looks like a quality piece of kit.

I am now well-equipped to tighten the hub nuts.

[Bob King]

1 hour ago, Tomtit said:

The Halfords torque wrench arrived 24 hours after ordering. It looks like a quality piece of kit.

I am now well-equipped to tighten the hub nuts.

Nothing stopping you now you have the tools for the job 👍🏻

Next question…..do the driveshaft come off the vehicle without dismantling the brake hub ?

 

[Tomtit]

According to the workshop manual we disconnect the driveshaft at the differential end and drift the shaft out of the hub. There is no need to dismantle the hub. The upper control arm and toe control link have to be disconnected before drifting out the shaft.

[Tomtit]

After a long struggle I cannot remove the first driveshaft. It seems well and truly stuck in the hub and at the differential. It has probably not moved in 21 years. I am not a trained mechanic and I have not done this job before. The workshop manual says to gently tap the shaft out of the hub with a brass drift. This did not work. Penetrating fluid and a good crack with a ball pein hammer and drift had no effect. It only produced a bit of grease at the differential end.

I don't know how hard I can hit it without doing any damage. An experienced mechanic would know. I have asked my trusted local garage to do the job. That will give me time to prepare the LS430 for its M.O.T.

[Lexiguy]

Hi Richard

You are fortunate to have an experienced mechanic who works in a local trusted garage.

He will know how hard to hit it and if that doesn't work he will probably give it some heat!

Either way it will be job done!

Anthony 

[royoftherovers]

On 8/29/2022 at 10:52 AM, Lexiguy said:

Hi Russ

I feel the same way to some extent, its 40 years (surely not,  I hear you cry 🤣) since I was a car mechanic and now I have to psych myself up to do underneath jobs! Topside is not bad but my milage is catching up with me as far as bending, twisting, squeezing, leaning and stretching is concerned! Technology has moved on greatly but my lack of understanding in this area has been greatly helped by the Internet and of course my friends on LOC.

I do miss hard copies in the form of books I can read and pour over, I often wish Haynes had produced a manual for the SC430 I would have enjoyed that.

Hi Richard

It's over 25 years since I worked at a Lexus dealership and was witness to so much evidence of the quality and longevity of their vehicles. It would take me until a couple of years ago to decide an SC430 would be my retirement car.

I believe in main dealer servicing so Lexus Leeds look after that and have also done other work for me too. Jordan Robinson is the service manager and a great guy always interested and helpful. 

I now know I made the right choice and enjoy being the owner of an SC every day!

Anthony

any use ? https://www.onlymanuals.com/lexus/sc_430

[Lexiguy]

Thanks John

Yes, but being an old git I would need to print it out so I can read it! 🤣

Ant 

[royoftherovers]

19 minutes ago, Lexiguy said:

Thanks John

Yes, but being an old git I would need to print it out so I can read it! 🤣

Ant 

Just wait until you enter the School of much older git`s and you won`t even remember why you printed it out !🤣

At least it is an available source of information that might have been felt, not to be available at all. Let`s see what, if anything, others think.

[Bob King]

3 hours ago, Tomtit said:

After a long struggle I cannot remove the first driveshaft. It seems well and truly stuck in the hub and at the differential. It has probably not moved in 21 years. I am not a trained mechanic and I have not done this job before. The workshop manual says to gently tap the shaft out of the hub with a brass drift. This did not work. Penetrating fluid and a good crack with a ball pein hammer and drift had no effect. It only produced a bit of grease at the differential end.

I don't know how hard I can hit it without doing any damage. An experienced mechanic would know. I have asked my trusted local garage to do the job. That will give me time to prepare the LS430 for its M.O.T.

Rusted suspension normally responds well to penetrating oil, heat or a big hammer !

   As you say not being over experienced, you could cause more harm than good.

Have you gone back to the job since using penetrating oil it needs a few days to do its work.

Did you spray some on your inner side of the driveshaft by the brake hub ?

    If you’re feeling out of your depth and not wanting to do any damage,your choice of a local garage makes perfect sense👍🏻

[Las Palmas]

1 hour ago, royoftherovers said:

any use ? https://www.onlymanuals.com/lexus/sc_430

Tried to download manual for CT. Paid the 5$. Got directed back to the download page and was told to pay 5$ (again) to get the immediate download.

Suppose his server is having problems.

Told PayPal. Expect to get money back instead of a manual.

[royoftherovers]

36 minutes ago, Las Palmas said:

Tried to download manual for CT. Paid the 5$. Got directed back to the download page and was told to pay 5$ (again) to get the immediate download.

Suppose his server is having problems.

Told PayPal. Expect to get money back instead of a manual.

John, Do want the Workshop Manual, Haynes Manual (DIY) or the Handbook ( Owners manual) ?

[Las Palmas]

1 hour ago, royoftherovers said:

John, Do want the Workshop Manual, Haynes Manual (DIY) or the Handbook ( Owners manual) ?

Hi John,

did not really want anything, just curious and would pay the 5$ to see what it is. When it wanted to be paid again for the same without letting me download anything, I told PayPal to return the 5¤ I paid. A web-site that want to be paid twice for the same item is not for me to support.

I do not really need a manual as I am not having a place to do any kind of work on the car. The parking space is 10cm shorter than the car and a CT is not big. Also not permitted to wash cars in the garage, there is not even a place to get electricity to fill air in tyres there.

Having been working with cars many years I now let other people get dirty hands doing that.

[Lexiguy]

Hi John

That will teach me not to be as trusting with these websites who promise to deliver and don't. 

Or perhaps its how they treat these rich sorts who live in the land of sunshine! 😂

Despite that thanks for the heads up and I will keep my eye on the transaction!

Ant 

[Tomtit]

Bob.

I sprayed GT85 into the outside of the hub where the splines are. I did not leave it a few days since I normally get results within minutes on rusty nuts etc. I never thought to spray the inner side of the driveshaft, but I will do this a few days before it goes into the garage. 

[Lexiguy]

Hi Richard 

That sounds like a plan, if the mechanic taps it and it drops out your bill will be less!

Good luck and let us know what happens.

Ant

[Las Palmas]

On 9/24/2022 at 1:37 PM, royoftherovers said:

any use ? https://www.onlymanuals.com/lexus/sc_430

PayPal is great.

Just received the refund.

Paid for the download and was asked to pay again for the same. PayPal react immediately and refunded.

PayPal is

[Lexiguy]

17 hours ago, Las Palmas said:

PayPal is great.

Just received the refund.

Paid for the download and was asked to pay again for the same. PayPal react immediately and refunded.

PayPal is

Hi John

I have had similar experience with PayPal before and they were a pleasure to deal with, they listened, understood and then reacted promptly in a responsible way! 💰

Anthony

[Lexiguy]

On 9/24/2022 at 1:37 PM, royoftherovers said:

any use ? https://www.onlymanuals.com/lexus/sc_430

I have fallen into the same trap, paid my $5 but only got a front sheet!

Be warned: do not use this site until the problem is resolved!

Ant

[Tomtit]

Just a brief update: the mechanic put the car on a ramp to look at what the job entails. He rang me to say that there could be 7 or 8 hours work, depending on how badly stuck the driveshafts are. He may have to use heat or even a big sledgehammer and drift if they won't come out. The garage is always booked up for weeks in advance and he could not risk the job going over to the next day due to other commitments. I have booked it in again for early next month. 

In the meantime I will spray penetrating fluid at intervals. I will post the outcome in due course.

[Tomtit]

When I bought the car I was looking into the ABS problem and I did a full scan for all fault codes. The only code showing was P0430 catalytic converter efficiency below threshold bank 2. I deleted the code and thought no more of it. I have now realised that the engine malfunction indicator lamp does not come on at all. It should come on for a few seconds when the ignition is turned on.

I need to check for a voltage supply at the instrument cluster. I have ordered the electrical wiring diagram supplement to the workshop manual, but it is coming from the U.S.A. and will arrive some time next month. There is a multi plug at the back of the cluster. Does anyone know which wire is the feed for the engine malfunction indicator lamp, please?

[ColinBarber]

4 hours ago, Tomtit said:

I have now realised that the engine malfunction indicator lamp does not come on at all. It should come on for a few seconds when the ignition is turned on.

That is not good and normally indicates someone covering up a fault. When was it MOT'd? If should have failed for that.

It might be easier to check the signal at the engine ECU. I believe it is pin 2 of connect 6 (grey and red wire):

 

Normal behaviour is low voltage with ignition (light on) and goes high voltage when engine started and light goes out.

 

The above is from the GS430 but I believe ECU pin outs are the same for GS,SC and LS430 5-speed vehicles.

[Tomtit]

Colin.

Thank you for that information. The car was M.O.T'd in February this year. I would have expected the tester to spot the missing light. I have watched the High Peak Autos video again and there was no MIL showing when the ignition was turned on. The problem has been there for some time. Someone has previously looked at the instrument cluster as two screws are missing. Inside there is a complex-looking printed circuit board. There is nothing obvious like a burn mark. I don't have the knowledge to test the PCB.

I will have a look for connector E6 tomorrow in daylight. In the meantime I have found (in the diagnostics section of the workshop manual) a diagram of the connector at the back of the cluster. I can now work out which wire feeds the MIL. I was hoping to put voltage to the feed wire and see if the MIL lights up. If it does, it would indicate a wiring problem further back. You mention low voltage before the engine starts. If I apply, say, 4.5 volts d.c. to the feed wire would that be enough to light the MIL?

I will try the engine ECU as you suggest. Checking at the cluster will give me another option.

Thank you.

[ColinBarber]

13 hours ago, Tomtit said:

I was hoping to put voltage to the feed wire and see if the MIL lights up. If it does, it would indicate a wiring problem further back. You mention low voltage before the engine starts. If I apply, say, 4.5 volts d.c. to the feed wire would that be enough to light the MIL?

By low voltage I mean 0 v. The system is designed to require the ECU and wiring to be in good order to not illuminate the warning light and therefore if the high voltage drops the light comes on. So if you put 12 v on the feed it should go out, and come on if at 0 v (and probably on if just disconnected).

If you are going to connect the pin to 12 v or 0v then I would make sure the wiring at the ECU end is disconnected. I'm sure the ECU circuitry has overcurrent protection in it but best not to risk damaging it.

 

I suggested checking the voltage at the ECU end rather than going through the trouble of getting to the instrument cluster - but as it sounds like you already have access then no need to work at the ECU end, unless you need to check continuity of the wire from the ECU through to the cluster.