cigarette lighter socket

[T man 545645]

Hi 

after fishing out a magnetic object from the cigarette lighter socket (the one near the seat heating/cooling control) it no longer works, i'll try and change the fuse, but i think in my haste in trying to remove the object with the house keys i've damaged it, or the magnet moved something out of place?

Either way i was wondering if its not the fuse, do i just jimmy the cigarette lighter socket out with a screwdriver and can it be replaced with any after market? the connecter underneath should be the same for all cigarette lighter sockets?

The car is a 2006 IS250

Many thanks

[Spock66]

58 minutes ago, T man 545645 said:

after fishing out a magnetic object from the cigarette lighter socket (the one near the seat heating/cooling control) it no longer works, i'll try and change the fuse, but i think in my haste in trying to remove the object with the house keys i've damaged it, or the magnet moved something out of place?

If it was metallic it likely caused a short which should have taken out the fuse.

[T man 545645]

I've located the fuse for the cig lighter, using that plastic fuse extractor tool, i cannot seem to get it out, the way the fuse board is i cannot get around it to clip the tool on and pull it out. What are other people using to pull the fuses out? I have needle nose pliers but cannot get a grip on the fuse with this either. 

[Mr Vlad]

Those mini fuses are a pain in the you know what. The plastic fuse removal tool is useless. I used a small normal size pliers to remove the fuses. As for removing the lighter socket they are either push fit or held in by a screw. Do Not Jimmy it out coz you'll wreck the surround. Be careful. 

[Texas]

If you need to remove the actual socket in the ash try drawer then the centre consul trim comes out quite easily ( taking care not to chip the trim by using trim tools and not metal screw drivers!)

[MrTrendizzle]

I tend to just use a flat head screw driver to *pop* the fuse up then use tweezers or those plastic clips to pick it up.  

Some easier than others. Altho you run the risk of bridging the legs and causing yourself issues. So be careful and i'm not responsible for you blowing up your car if you try this.

[T man 545645]

Thanks for the replies - very helpful 

[T man 545645]

Just to confirm it was a simple fuse that sorted the cigg lighter out - i can now charge my phone again!

Thanks again for the help!

[Las Palmas]

It is still called a cigarette lighter though ash trays are long gone.

Could change the name to 12V chargers. The USB's in our car are not having power enough to charge the phones. Very old phones maybe taking 24 hours to fill up.

[MrTrendizzle]

On 6/27/2022 at 1:15 PM, Las Palmas said:

It is still called a cigarette lighter though ash trays are long gone.

Could change the name to 12V chargers. The USB's in our car are not having power enough to charge the phones. Very old phones maybe taking 24 hours to fill up.

The issue would be down to your fuse for the charger or the actual USB charger.
For example: Your phone fast charges at 45W which will require a 12v source and about 4 amps to make 48 watts. Your typical USB lighter adapter has a fuse inside the little nobbly bit most cheap ones contain a 1 to 2 amp fuse. The power supplied should be more than adequate.

Make sure you have one of these types  USB 3.0 or USB C which is rated for the fast charge ability. You will also want to get a decent cable. This is the cable i use for my Samsung S20. This will enable fast charging on your phone. I prefer a braided line as i charge from the armrest charger and route the wire out to the phone holder under all the plastics and in to the glovebox. The other charger is left free and closed as i hooked my dashcam to the front port and spliced the wires on to the connectors.
Try to avoid any charger that says "Rated for 0-2.4amps" these will charge slowly always go for the 4amp or higher and make sure you get a good cable that also is rated for 4amps or higher.

Just for future reference if you ever require it:

Current equals Power times by Voltage (I=PxV) V=Volts I=Amps P=Watts (48Watts=12Voltsx4Amps)

Current	Power	Voltage
1 Amps	12 Watts	12 Volts
2 Amps	24 Watts	12 Volts
3 Amps	36 Watts	12 Volts
4 Amps	48 Watts	12 Volts
5 Amps	60 Watts	12 Volts
6 Amps	72 Watts	12 Volts
7 Amps	84 Watts	12 Volts
8 Amps	96 Watts	12 Volts
9 Amps	108 Watts	12 Volts
10 Amps	120 Watts	12 Volts

[Las Palmas]

1 hour ago, MrTrendizzle said:

The issue would be down to your fuse for the charger or the actual USB charger.
For example: Your phone fast charges at 45W which will require a 12v source and about 4 amps to make 48 watts. Your typical USB lighter adapter has a fuse inside the little nobbly bit most cheap ones contain a 1 to 2 amp fuse. The power supplied should be more than adequate.

Make sure you have one of these types  USB 3.0 or USB C which is rated for the fast charge ability. You will also want to get a decent cable. This is the cable i use for my Samsung S20. This will enable fast charging on your phone. I prefer a braided line as i charge from the armrest charger and route the wire out to the phone holder under all the plastics and in to the glovebox. The other charger is left free and closed as i hooked my dashcam to the front port and spliced the wires on to the connectors.
Try to avoid any charger that says "Rated for 0-2.4amps" these will charge slowly always go for the 4amp or higher and make sure you get a good cable that also is rated for 4amps or higher.

Just for future reference if you ever require it:

Current equals Power times by Voltage (I=PxV) V=Volts I=Amps P=Watts (48Watts=12Voltsx4Amps)

Current	Power	Voltage
1 Amps	12 Watts	12 Volts
2 Amps	24 Watts	12 Volts
3 Amps	36 Watts	12 Volts
4 Amps	48 Watts	12 Volts
5 Amps	60 Watts	12 Volts
6 Amps	72 Watts	12 Volts
7 Amps	84 Watts	12 Volts
8 Amps	96 Watts	12 Volts
9 Amps	108 Watts	12 Volts
10 Amps	120 Watts	12 Volts

Not really sure what you mean with chose a 4A charger. The built-in USB in the car has no such thing in it. There are 2 USB connectors and none of them have power to charge a phone.

Do you mean I shall change the fuse to the USB? Do not believe there is a separate fuse for that.

[MrTrendizzle]

6 hours ago, Las Palmas said:

Not really sure what you mean with chose a 4A charger. The built-in USB in the car has no such thing in it. There are 2 USB connectors and none of them have power to charge a phone.

Do you mean I shall change the fuse to the USB? Do not believe there is a separate fuse for that.

Sorry i've just noticed you own a CT200H. I thought you were using a cigarette lighter USB charger not the built in USB port. My mistake.